Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi, I’m getting near the end of my Tamiya 1/350 Bismarck build and need some advice. I have used a photoetch set from Eduard but have 6 pairs of steps/stairs left over and no indication of where to place them, any ideas please? Also can anyone suggest good tutorials to watch on weathering and rigging, I’ve bought an AK weathering set and Infiniti fine (70 denier) rigging. My first attempt at rigging (the KGV) wasn’t great as I used some fishing line which was too thick and didn’t stretch. Would like to do better this time!

Many thanks,

Ewen

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found on some kits that I have had bits left over before. Often they seem to be either included as spares (I remember especially AA guns and doors on an Eduard set for the USS Lexington) or in other instances to allow for variations in fit from a single PE fret. (Atlantic Models kits designed to cover multiple ships from the same class often have this).

 

Hopefully it is one or the other of these! 

 

I haven't found much for weathering ships specifically but there is a model by Plasmo of one of the Italian battleships which is worth a watch on youtube (i will pop a link up tomorrow) otherwise I would reccomend just trying the same techniques you would use on larger scale models, especially washes and drybrushing.

 

Edit:

The Italian Battleship was the Roma, Plamo also has this nice video of the Bismarck.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

On 6/7/2020 at 2:31 PM, EwenM said:

Also can anyone suggest good tutorials to watch on weathering and rigging, I’ve bought an AK weathering set and Infiniti fine (70 denier) rigging.

I saw a video about this a while back, I think it was actually an official Infini one, but I can’t find it anywhere now. It’s easy enough to describe (I hope) and pretty foolproof.

 

Basically, with the model mounted on its stand, unwind a suitable length of thread and tape down the end closest to the spool - tape it to the stand, to the side of the ship, wherever is convenient.

 

Stretch the free end of the thread to its furthest attachment point, add a drop of thin CA and keep it under gentle tension until it holds.

 

Untape the thread, snip off as much as you need, stretch it to the second attachment point and repeat.

 

The key is to keep some tension on the thread while the glue sets. Find somewhere to attach it and carefully pull the thread around it. The excess can easily be removed by pulling it with tweezers and just touching it with a fresh scalpel blade. Don’t add too much tension to the second point or you might end up warping a mast. You want just enough to keep the rigging straight.

 

Personal preference, of course, but I’d recommend a heavier thread than 70 denier. I used that before and it’s close to invisible, which is annoying when you’ve spent so long doing it. The model below, I used 110 denier thread. It’s much easier to work with and can easily be seen on a shelf (maybe that’s just my eyes though).

 

resized_f407cbb0-e0f9-4cbf-a4a1-b95c522f

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...