Heather's Workbench - The Netherlands, 1940

[Heather Kay]

6 hours ago, nsmekanik said:

My general working Pressure is somewhere between 15-20 psi, lower for finer work

This may be part of my problem. I wanted a smaller and less obtrusive compressor that I could use around the bench. I settled, after reviewing options, on the Arism. However, it has a fixed pressure of around 25-30psi, and you regulate that with the MAC valve. Unfortunately, there’s no visual clue as to the pressure at the airbrush using the valve. You have to learn by experience, and I currently don’t have that experience.

 

I'm beginning to think I may have made a bit of a booboo with my choice of compressor. 

[Heather Kay]

I am ever more convinced that some kits are designed but never actually built by their designers. I understand Airfix insists on the kit designer having a go at the first test shots of a new kit. All this extra resin and PE, which looks so nice in the box, is patently never designed to actually fit the ruddy model!

 

Case in point. In the box we have a moulded styrene IP, with none-too-shabby relief detailing. Oh, that I had just gone with my original scheme and used the moulded parts throughout. We also have a resin blank plus a two-layer pre-painted PE panel. Lovely, isn’t it? Well, the resin blank doesn’t fit in the cockpit - let us not go over again the utter lack of positive location points or the vague instructions as to where the panel actually fits, apart from in front of the pilot - so I decided to use the styrene moulded one with the fancy-pants brass overlays.

 

The brass overlays are a different shape to the moulded piece. Of course they are. It stands to reason, doesn’t it. Some careful filing was required to trim things back to plastic. Then, obviously, having constructed a hybrid interior space, the combo IP didn't fit between the sides. Butchery took place. Happily, like most of the cockpit, you can’t see it. I really didn’t bother fitting the PE rudder pedals. You can barely see the seat, let alone the floor. These kit designers must take us for fools! I think we are fools to fall for all this "extra" invisible detail!

 

 

After much swearing, the fuselage succumbed to being glued together. Think of a large Victorian lady being held in with corsetry. Let us hope the stays are strong enough to hold...

 

 

See? With a glazed canopy in place, not a lot I suspect. Still, we know it’s there. There is an option in the kit to build with the cockpit access open. Assuming all the resin parts can be made to fit, you might see more in there I suppose.

 

Back to paying work again, after I let my blood pressure come down a notch or two.

[CedB]

Sorry to hear that the compressor isn't shaping up Heather  

 

Your next post was more entertaining though!

Corsets and pegs! Everything the modern modeller needs

 

It's all looking good in there though, nice work.

[Heather Kay]

A little more done this evening.

 

 

I reattached the rollover bar support struts you can see pinged off in a previous post. Paint was duly retouched. I fettled the wings to get the best fit I could. They’re not actually all that bad, but despite all the surfaces only four tiny spots meet with the fuselage and are suitable of gluing. Consequently, despite my best efforts, I think the wings are on the wonk. I’m not going to attempt straightening them. They’ll have to remain wonky. They will be a match for my Lysander, so it’s not all lost.

 

An infinitely fine strut etch fits over the engine gear case. By some miracle I actually managed to get it orientated correctly! Of course, you can’t see anything now it’s all painted. The cowling slips over the engine, and leaves a neat air gap at the rear, just like the real thing I suspect. It took a while to figure out orientation of the cowling, with no guides or pegs to help. Fine engraved lines give a clue, with a pair of lines being where the exhaust pipe sits. With that it’s possible to work out where the carburettor intake sits underneath. Funnily enough, the intake is moulded with a location pip, but there’s no corresponding dimple for it to sit in on the cowling. Of course.

 

The propeller is supplied as three blades in styrene, and a boss in resin. I wasn’t looking forward to aligning things, but it turned out the blades pushed into the boss neatly and just needed a drop of CA to hold them. Of course, it’s not obvious which way the prop turns, unless you’re a Bristol Mercury nerd. I had to pull another model so equipped out of the cabinet so I could stick the blades in correctly!

 

A mere smidge of PPP in the wing roots, and that’s the sum total of the filler on this model. The undercarriage spats have been assembled, and marked for which side is which for later. The tailplane parts can wait for another day. I plan to leave the rudder off the model to make it easier - I hope - to apply the orange national marking transfers. Masking the canopy ought to be next, then some painting can start. Apart from the cockpit shenanigans, this is a fun little build.

[Navy Bird]

11 hours ago, Heather Kay said:

This may be part of my problem. I wanted a smaller and less obtrusive compressor that I could use around the bench. I settled, after reviewing options, on the Arism. However, it has a fixed pressure of around 25-30psi, and you regulate that with the MAC valve. Unfortunately, there’s no visual clue as to the pressure at the airbrush using the valve. You have to learn by experience, and I currently don’t have that experience.

 

I'm beginning to think I may have made a bit of a booboo with my choice of compressor. 

 

Maybe you could put a pressure regulator in the line between compressor and airbrush? Should work as long as you only need to go lower in pressure than what the compressor outputs. Does your compressor have an air tank? If not, it would need a relief valve if you add a regulator, but most compressors have one. Just a thought (or two)...

 

Cheers,

Bill

[Heather Kay]

12 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

Does your compressor have an air tank?

This compressor doesn’t. I weighed up the pros and cons and decided a tank added bulk (and cost) I didn’t need on the bench. I still have the huge compressor in the loft workshop. That has a massive tank, but struggles with pressures below 30psi.

 

Anyway, let’s say I have a plan to work to. Thanks to everyone for their thoughts, experience and advice. I will get there.

 

Meanwhile, here’s a funny thing.

 

 

A Venturi tube is to be fitted in what looks like a hole. I wondered about this, because hardly anything else in this kit has a hole or peg, or sometimes has a peg and no hole, or just generally left to the modeller's whim. Wait!

 

 

There is an actual hole! Saints preserve us! Let’s get that part C9 fitted then. 
 

 

Wait - what‽ There’s no Sprue C. Would ya Adam 'n Eve it! No part to fit in a hole that’s provided just about sums life up, doesn’t it!

 

I suppose I’ll have to see if I can scratch something up. Thanks MPM. 

[2996 Victor]

Hi Heather,

 

I've been following your build closely as I want to do a Dutch D.XXI as well.

 

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will confirm/correct me, but I think the venturi tube was fitted only on the Finnish D.XXIs.

 

Interesting discussion about airbrushes, too. I have an old single action that I was just getting the hang on 25+ years ago when I suddenly stopped model making! The airbrush wasn't the cause, btw. But I'm thinking it's time to unpack it and have another go!

 

Kind regards,

 

Mark

[Heather Kay]

3 minutes ago, 2996 Victor said:

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will confirm/correct me, but I think the venturi tube was fitted only on the Finnish D.XXIs.

Ha! That would explain why it’s not in the box then. An oversight in the instructions. The box art, incidentally, doesn’t show the venturi, so I’ll check some other references and plug the hole if not needed.

 

[Heather Kay]

 Quick backtrack to the airbrush saga, if you don’t mind.

 

This linky takes you to the Sparmax compressor I have.

 

This linky is a moisture filter and gauge gizmo from the same brand. 
 

Does the team think the latter will work with the former, and give me the visual pressure gauge feedback I need at the airbrush end?

 

 

[HAMP man]

Hello Heather,

I have the moisture filter thing on my Sparmax, but mine is attached to the compressor, as it's a bit hefty for shoving onto the airbrush, also i think you might have to buy suitable connectors.

 

Box On

 

Strickers

[Heather Kay]

4 minutes ago, HAMP man said:

also i think you might have to buy suitable connectors

Yes, that has occurred to me. I think I’ll forget the idea for now.

 

Onwards!

[HAMP man]

Hello Heather,

A Commission model has to be acceptable for the commissioner, and to whomever he/she shows it to. My models have only ever been scrutinised by me and my dog, and I'm not sure if he understands the difference between the A and B pattern pre war camo.

My point being that if the modeller is happy that the representation is acceptable, then the jobs a good un.

Enjoying the posts 

 

Box On

 

Strickers

[Martian]

1 hour ago, Heather Kay said:

 Quick backtrack to the airbrush saga, if you don’t mind.

 

This linky takes you to the Sparmax compressor I have.

 

This linky is a moisture filter and gauge gizmo from the same brand. 
 

Does the team think the latter will work with the former, and give me the visual pressure gauge feedback I need at the airbrush end?

 

 

No question Heather, that is an invaluable piece of kit. I would certainly not be without mine. Have a chat with Sparmax and if they can't help, try these guys, they are good, very good and are my go to suppliers:

 

https://www.everythingairbrush.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYL3BRDVARIsAF9E4GfP2k6YFvIfn2RmIp0ppgdBnhkFwRxJLVKKmj4p227keWCxBrH9240aAt71EALw_wcB

 

They work from an industrial unit bet are more than happy for customers to drop in and discuss their needs.

 

Martian 👽

[Heather Kay]

Cheers again, everyone, both here and off-list. I think I’ve been getting myself all tied in knots over this, so I will step back a bit and try again with what I have before I get too carried away spending money.

 

Meanwhile, after a fairly fruitless day fighting a recalcitrant loco kit which has ended in a score draw for this round, I spent a few minutes with the little Fokker. 
 

(There are so many unsubtle puns and jokes to be had. I am trying to avoid them.)

 

 

We have undercarriage! Before I got much further I carefully sanded the wheels to give a little flat spot to imply a little weight on the tyres. I’ve set up a @CedB inspired Lego jig to set the tail feathers.

 

 

I think the instructions have the tail parts back to front. A small dimple is moulded on one side, which I think is where the strut fits. Follow the instructions and the dimple is on top. Not a disaster, and a small hole needs to be drilled for a bracing wire on top anyway, but there you go. Forewarned is four-eyed, or whatever it is. Should I mask the canopy now? Probably. I reckon it’s nearly time for primer.
 

I’m going to brush some Humbrol 29 on the whole thing as a good base for the dark brown camo and underside colour. Dark brown undersides seems an odd choice, as a colour less like the sky would be hard to come up with. Don’t you dare mention Fairey Battles!

[Brandy]

I can't help singing:

 

"I'm not a Fokker knocker,

I'm a Fokker knocker's mate,

I'm only knocking Fokkers

'cos the Fokker knocker's late!

 

Sorry! 

 

Ian

Apologies to any pheasant pluckers out there!

 

Edited June 10, 2020 by limeypilot

[Peter Rozendal]

Hi Heather,

 

Re the mysterious sprue C, I have the Finnish version of this Fokker (MPM kit 7250). This has a sprue C, with the wings and a three piece engine cowling (and also a venturi). It should also have two cannon's, but 1 has gone AWOL.

 

As far as I can find (Nederlandse Vliegtuig encyclopedie Fokker D-XXI, 1978 by H. Hooftman) the Dutch D.XXI's did not have this venturi. So just fill the hole!

 

Peter

[CedB]

Nice work Heather and pleased to see another Lego jig enthusiast! 

I use mine a lot, especially the angled 'roof bits' that you can push under the tailplanes to adjust the angle of the dangle. A thin layer of Tak can be added for perfect grip if needed.

Good stuff.

 

Looking good on her legs  

[Heather Kay]

I acquired a bumper pack of Lego last year, ostensibly to use just for making support jigs and stuff. I was transported back to being eight years old again. When I get fed up with life, I can pile into the bricks and be creative again, just having fun.

 

 

A coat of acrylic Hu29 showed little of concern, save the wing roots. They’ve been dealt with by scrapers and files, and now look reasonable. You’ll note weapons and landing lights have gone in. The former are nickel-silver wire which was the right diameter for the job. The latter were fun, because the opening they fit into is open into the wing cavity. You can imagine the rest...

 

 

You can see my brushed undercoat is a bit patchy in places, but a second or third coat deals with that if required. The paint brushes on nicely from the pot, though I tend to thin it with a drop of tap water in a palette. For about 24 hours, the paint is dry but liable to accidental scratch damage. After about a day, it becomes pretty resilient. Still, it’s good enough as a base and key coat for brushing enamels over.

 

The weather here in the bottom right-hand corner of Blighty is dull and damp, and my general mood is following it. I think a day of emails and paperwork will be safest.

[Marklo]

looking well, I only brush paint detail parts these days but particularly when I do I notice huge variation in how the paint goes on. I’ve been using Tamiya German grey on the spinner and prop of my Stuka and one coat looks wonderful, whereas some of the lighter shades still look ropey after multiple coats.

 

If it’s any consolation, here in the southeast of Ireland it’s looking like winter outside  

[corsaircorp]

Hello Heather,

I've worked for years with a compressor whithout tank...

Father's day is coming and I will receive A REAL Compressor... Good move from Wifey !!

Sometimes I was fed up with the pressure going high and low, waiting for the pressure to rise a bit...

Then spraying a bit and Fiouuu no pressure....

I hope that with the new compressor, my Badger will cure its prostathis problems.... 🤞🤞

You did a really on your Fokker, I know that MPM is not the easier brand to work with !!

Congrats Fear !!

Sincerely.

CC

[Cookenbacher]

The Fokker is looking grand (ahem).

 

It looks like the regulator you picked out will work with your compressor, but you may need an adapter to have the outlet fit your hose (the compressor says it has a 1/8" outlet, while the regulator has a 1/8" inlet (result!) and a 1/4" outlet, while I'm guessing your hose is 1/8").

You can get less expensive regulators - they're usually 1/4", but adapters are cheap. Either way, you'll be in good shape.

I do second CC's preference for having a tank as it smooths out the air flow to your brush.

[Heather Kay]

16 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

I do second CC's preference for having a tank as it smooths out the air flow to your brush.

Indeed. The big compressor I have is superbly smooth. I have to say, though, the Arism hasn’t shown any issues with lack of pressure at any time. When I researched before buying, it seemed compressors with tanks were quite a bit more expensive, as well as larger, and wouldn’t have made all that much difference in the end.

 

 

I masked and fitted the canopy yesterday evening. A hole must be marked and drilled to install the W/T mast. I suspect the moulded styrene one is meant to butt-join to the transparency, and we all know how that would end up, don’t we boys and girls. As is now my tradition, I’ve installed brass rod masts for the front and top of the fin. I painted over the canopy with the interior grey, then a coat of the dark earth "primer". I might apply a coat of Colourcoats on the undersides today. Painting this little model will take longer than building it!

[elger]

Since we're talking compressors can I just mention that last year I bought a Sil-Air 20a quiet compressor and it completely changed my modeling experience. It's pricey but the fact that it is quiet is sheer bliss. According to the advertisements it's as loud as a fridge - that's not entirely true, it is a little bit louder than that, but not having that nagging sound of my old Revell (built by Sparmax) compressor is wonderful.

[Heather Kay]

 

Not the best shot, but everything is brown. That’s a couple of coats of Humbrol 29 acrylic as base, then about three coats of ColourCoats ACD02 LVA Camouflage Brown. 
 

I will let that sit for a day or so, give it a light sanding to get rid of bits of dust and other grollies, then begin to add the green and beige camo pattern.

[Heather Kay]

 

So, this happened.