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Newbie first model


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spacer.pngso this is the first model almost finished just found the forum after I started the journey 

obviously very poor compared to what I have seen on here

many mistakes made

I didn’t know to wash the parts

primer has to be used

you can’t mask over decals

decals are a nightmare 

how do you get decals down on compound curves

i have started another 3 

1 nsr500 bike only decals left to do struggling with that one

1 ducati 888 engine and frame done

porsche 934 in primer

2 more race cars unopened

all require lots of decals perhaps I should change subjects

i

 

 

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First model?? Looks good to me! :) 

 

If you're having trouble with decals - you should look into decal setting and softening solutions. Like Micro Sol & Micro Set. But many other brands make similar products. They help decals adhere the surface better and makes them wrap around uneven surfaces better. But it's also good to remember that there are many different quality of decals - some are just easier to put down than others.

 

Have fun with your modelling! :)

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I still fear decals after 40 years of building models.  It looks fine to me, especially for a first attempt.   Have a look at some Youtube builds, you'll immediately feel better about yours.

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Certainly NOT a failure by any measure. That’s a very good outcome for a first build  
 

Also not a failure as you have come across problems doing the build and are asking all the right questions so you have identified for yourself where you want to do better. 
 

You only improve by building. We all learn by mistakes. Ask me how I know!!:D

 

Take it one problem at a time. 
 

Washing parts?  Some people say it’s a must and others say it’s not necessary. Resin needs washed I think. I am not sure about plastic but as it does not take long I do it anyway. Just in case:winkgrin:
 

I will leave comment on primer to the expert painters though it does help show up surface imperfections and that’s helpful by itself

 

Keep on modelling. That’s a very tidy first time model there and way better than anything I did back then

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First rule of anything - don't be in a rush to compare yourself to others, particularly with a place like here where some of the builds are incredible. It might be your first model, but it does show a good starting point and it's a plus that you're able to look at what you've done and identify where you can improve. Just remember everyone starts somewhere.

 

As for more specific questions, I use Halfords car primer (white for light colours, grey for dark) which hasn't let me down yet and is good value for money compared to model paints. Of course, being a rattlecan you will need somewhere that won't cause you to stink out the house.  Other people will have other favourite primers, but it's usually worth giving a quick rub over it with fine (say 1500-2000 grit) sandpaper before the colour coat.

 

It sounds from what you've written that decals are proving your bete noire at the moment. I would second the suggestion to get hold of Microset and Microsol. Brush on the Microset, then apply the decal. Leave for a while so that the decal is set in position, then brush over it with Microsol. Depending on the decals (some are quite flexible, others not so), you may not need to do this but it's often worth giving at least one application. Once you've applied the Microsol wait a few hours before touching the decal as the solution makes it soft and easily damaged. For thick and/or stiff decals such as the Fiesta I'm on with at the moment, you may need to apply Microsol more than once to get the decal to conform properly. Even then, as you've discovered, tight compound curves can still be a pain and the odd crease or tear may be present at the end.

 

Keep at it.

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Don't beat yourself up! :yes:

 

many mistakes made

Yep - that's modelling!

I didn’t know to wash the parts

You don't always have to - it varies.  If they feel greasy, wash 'em.

primer has to be used

I agree, but others don't.  Primer and a buff down give a good base to start with.

you can’t mask over decals

Yes you can, but use setting solution when applying to get a better adhesion, and put a coat of gloss over it to secure it.

decals are a nightmare 

They can be at times.  See my first answer ;)

how do you get decals down on compound curves

Your best bet is to use setting solutions, which soften the decals and allow you to burnish them down, and even stretch them a little if they're not already designed with the curves in mind.  Sometimes you might also need to slit decals, moreso on internal curves though.

 

That's modelling for you, and you're always learning, re-learning and adapting your techniques based on the latest information from others, or from your own experiences.  Keep up the good work :)

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Many thanks for the kind words 

with regards decal solution  I did use ak decal adapter solution don’t know weather that’s any good or not it’s pretty well all I could get during lockdown I will get  some micro set/sol once it’s back in stock ,it’s seems a popular choice

@Spiny I have just been reading your fiesta. Wip and noted about going back with more solution  what time scale is that over

can you apply more next day if decals not right 

I have just done carbon on silencers for ducati and they don’t seem great but I don’t want to touch them again today

 

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It is a good effort, you should be proud of that one especially as cars are not as easy a starting point compared to an aircraft.

 

1 tip for decals, if you have not done so, is to put down a couple of thin clear gloss coats.  You will see people advocating Johnsons Future / Kleer (if you can still get it) or get something like AK Gauzy.  I assume also that you are brush painting to start with, so look for self levelling as a feature as this will give you shine and a smooth finish for the decals to cling to.  Also, get some decent flat brushes for now or as @Spiny said, look at rattle cans.

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1 hour ago, Mumbly said:

1 tip for decals, if you have not done so, is to put down a couple of thin clear gloss coats.  You will see people advocating Johnsons Future / Kleer (if you can still get it)

Quick couple of questions if I may? Any tips about applying decals are welcome!

 

Can Future/Kleer be airbrushed? If so, I assume no thinning is needed and just a light, mist coat to prevent runs?

 

Thanks!

 

 

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Nothing wrong with that as a first model, which kit of the Alpine is it?

As has been said above U-Tube has lots of helpful tutorials on everything from reviews to complete builds and most things in between.

Looking forward to seeing more of your work and if you have any queries just ask someone will have an answer or point you in the right direction.

 

           Roger

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Hi Matt

 

 If you can get some Kleer, it is ready to use and does not need thinning to airbrush. You can still buy the original stuff in the U.S. and it can be bought in the U.K. but test it first over the same paints.  I use plastic desert spoons, as they are big enough as well as the perfect shape for seeing how paint goes down.  They are also cheep and almost the right plastic.  Poundland like places are great for all this kind of stuff.

 

@Hamdenis right, YouTube has some great tips.  It does get easier, but if you are buying old kits off eBay, then chances are the decals might have perished over time.

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4 hours ago, Hamden said:

 

Nothing wrong with that as a first model, which kit of the Alpine is it?

As has been said above U-Tube has lots of helpful tutorials on everything from reviews to complete builds and most things in between.

Looking forward to seeing more of your work and if you have any queries just ask someone will have an answer or point you in the right direction.

 

           Roger

Kit is Heller I do like the older cars and it was a cheap kit just to see if I enjoyed the process 

no 3 and 4 models are underway these have been rattle can painted so we’ll see 

looks like they might need a little wet sand what grit is preferred and have long should you leave before attempting to sand

@Mumbly brand new kit so only me to blame for poor decals

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1. Well done, I like it. My favourite car of all time.

2. I've just bought one to go with my two Tamiyas, mainly because it's modelled in tarmac mode, i.e. wide arches, and I think I will go for the later Renault blue/white/red livery.

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23 hours ago, Ottopv said:

Many thanks for the kind words 

with regards decal solution  I did use ak decal adapter solution don’t know weather that’s any good or not it’s pretty well all I could get during lockdown I will get  some micro set/sol once it’s back in stock ,it’s seems a popular choice

@Spiny I have just been reading your fiesta. Wip and noted about going back with more solution  what time scale is that over

can you apply more next day if decals not right 

I have just done carbon on silencers for ducati and they don’t seem great but I don’t want to touch them again today

 

I don't know what the AK solution is like I'm afraid, some solutions are more aggressive than others so will more quickly get the decal to conform but at greater risk of damage to the decal. It's a balance to find one which works for you.

 

When it comes to applying addition solution, the main thing is to let the decal dry from the previous application and regain its strength - if you apply new solution too soon you could damage the decal. If I'm being conservative I'll wait four hours, but in good drying conditions I have reapplied as early as an hour after the previous application. I don't think there is a maximum time between applications - with some of the Fiesta decals I must have been reaching double figures in terms of number of applications spread over the best part of a week so just keep applying until you're happy the decal has conformed to the shape properly. (Note that these timescales are all based on Microsol and it's more a case of waiting for the decal to firm up again and previous solution to dry rather than timescales as such.

20 hours ago, Back in the Saddle said:

Quick couple of questions if I may? Any tips about applying decals are welcome!

 

Can Future/Kleer be airbrushed? If so, I assume no thinning is needed and just a light, mist coat to prevent runs?

 

Thanks!

 

 

Yes, it can be airbrushed, although I must admit that the one time I tried it I was unsuccessful as it formed beads initially and I put too much on trying to get the beads to join leading to runs. I'm not very good at airbrushing so you may have more luck. However, I followed up with paintbrushing it on, and the end result was ok, just needed a little polish but I was happy enough with the end result.

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