Jump to content

1/48 Spitfire Vb (Trop) 249 Sqn Malta - George Beurling ***FINISHED***


Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, Bill Livingston said:

Thats looking a good base, Steve. That Azure looks good, too. You are making a really good job of this. 

 

(Im going to miss this group...).

Thanks Bill, I like the Azure colour and the contrast against the grey or sky undersides of the other 3 builds. It will certainly add a bit of colour to the shelf!

 

I know what you mean about this group - my progress with this one was prompted by your updates and others and wanting to get it across the finish line! Have you signed up to the BoB and MTO group builds? I’m in for another Spit in each!

 

on to some progress during what would normally be my morning commute!

 

I put down some white to lighten areas of the aircraft and hopefully give some more contrast when I put down the main colours. I’ll give it a light sand and then put down a top coat of Azure blue this evening. I want to make this one look quite worn, so will be using some of the colour photos of desert MkVs for inspiration. I’ll need to walk a careful line between ‘weathered’ and ‘scrapyard‘ with this one I think 😆 It will be too easy to get carried away.

 

F60E2688-F0F5-4A40-A569-F4DCBE843358

 

DE1A6F1C-EDA9-4D91-8A55-EDBCC801EE69

 

DD971969-2480-4E94-BDE4-CC16887F497D

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow!

 

Thats dramatic! 🙂

 

It is SERIOUSLY good fun, this group, isnt it. 

 

I haven't put my name down for either group (BoB I can work out, I will probably build a couple of the new Eduard MkI's as they should be out by then, what is the MTO group...?).

 

And do I need to 'sign up'? I didnt know... I just joined in with this group as I am only been a member of Britmodeller for a few weeks..

 

Anyway, back to your model... (This is the third time I have tried to write this post, I skipped back after only a line or two to check something you had written and noticed that it 'saved' my previously written text... so then I went on a long discussion of the weathering, desert camouflage and so on and then checked back a page or so again fully expecting my text to remain... which it did, but only the first few lines!!! I lost almost all of what I have written! Aarghh!).

 

Anyway, I won't got through it all again, but a heavily weathered desert camouflage will look fabulous so I can see why you were asking about the chipping varnish. I absolutely think it is work considering. As I said on my thread, I airbrushed the chipping medium after I had masked off the white leading edge strips... but if I was doing it again, I think I would airbrush the wing roots in 'shiny metal' and spray it there too... and any other rear where paint could come off, such as propellor hubs, leading edges of wing and tailplane... fuselage sides... whatever. It is very controllable (perhaps too much so!) but not all that predictable (that sounds like a conflict in terms, but if you try it, you will see exactly what I mean... once the paint starts to lift, you can stop at any point... but you cant determine the shape of the stripped section - thats entirely random... and probably one of the reasons it looks so realistic.

 

Same with fading... you can really go to town on a desert machine (and it seems you have!)... I have been looking at some photos of faded and sun bleached Spitfires a lot lately and if anyone says 'you cant see weathering' on a 48th scale model, just walk away shaking your head. I can see the weathering clearly on a photo which is a lot smaller than a 48th scale model... and when I am five feet away from my MkIX, which is weathered and faded, I cant see the weathering on that, either... which would be the equivalent of 250 feet away (80 meters). 

 

I'm looking forward to seeing your main coats go on again now... just to see how you faded it. I start by going over the panel lines in the base coat so I can fade them out to where I want them to be and then airbrush in the centres to reduce the fade... (hopefully that will make sense) but it is just good fun. I have a tendency to go too far and reduce the fade a little too much, but I suppose its better to err on the side of caution than over do it... 

 

Which is probably why I fancy doing a desert Spitfire with heavily faded and weathered camouflage, damaged panels and loads of lovely oil spills... I just need to find one without that awful looking Volkes filter!😄

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Bill Livingston said:

Wow!

 

Thats dramatic! 🙂

 

It is SERIOUSLY good fun, this group, isnt it. 

 

I haven't put my name down for either group (BoB I can work out, I will probably build a couple of the new Eduard MkI's as they should be out by then, what is the MTO group...?).

 

And do I need to 'sign up'? I didnt know... I just joined in with this group as I am only been a member of Britmodeller for a few weeks..

Hi Bill,

 

The MTO is the Mediterranean  Theatre of Operations - sorry shouldn’t have just used acronyms! I don’t think you have to sign up as such, I just posted to the host to join -  like you, this is my first group build, so I’m learning by touch! I think the posting to join works for me as it cements in my mind that I’ve committed to the build, so I need to get on and complete. Weird but...!

 

I am interested in trying out the chipping medium and it looks really effective on your Spit - I won’t use it for this one as I don’t think I have time to get some and make a decent fist of it, but I’m certainly thinking about it for follow on builds. 
 

The desert, Burma and Pacific schemes are great for trying out some heavier Weathering effects I think and I’m having fun trying things out with this one. I expect those Malta Spitfires were worked quite hard!

 

I have another desert Spit in my sights for the MTO group build - and you’ll be delighted there’s not a big chin in sight! I am thinking Ian Gleed’s clipped wing Vb with Aboukir filter and a non-standard camouflage pattern! I also fancy a Vc conversion (using Ray’s guide) and building a Malta blue/ grey scheme. Before I get too far into planning though, I’d better finish this one, so onto tonight...
 

I went over the surface with some fine sanding pads again and then set up to paint.
 

I also sorted a seam on the oil cooler (using superglue and talc - which I’d not used before but have learned from Ray and Bill!).I also fitted the Radiator and masked the insides ready for spraying.

 

I then had a bit of a nightmare with the paint and was getting lots of splattering from my airbrush. A combination of stripping down the airbrush, cleaning everything again and adding a drop or two of thinner to the paint seemed to sort it. I probably didn’t clean the airbrush  thoroughly enough this morning as I was rushing to get set up for work. Schoolboy error....
 

Anyway, I laid down some light coats of Vallejo model air Azure blue. I took my time with this, building the depth of colour slowly until I got to a point that I was happy with. so tonight I’m left with this.

 

7949FAEA-FFB3-4DDF-A594-17FD88FE1014

 

In my mind it’s about where I wanted to get it to. I’ll take a look in daylight, but if it’s okay, it will be masking and middle stone tomorrow night. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks very good. It looks a little grey and less blue, but that probably more due to lighting, but the 'fade' and the variations in colour look very good for a weathered Spitfire with a mix of darker and lighter panels and a fairly uneven overall appearance. I would be interested in a daylight photo if you get a chance tomorrow as I am fully aware of the difference that can make.

 

This sort of painting style is really good fun, isnt it? I am really enjoying this learning process and I am producing models that are a different league from what I was doing last time I built aircraft. I think ship modelling helped me with detailing and PE/Resin and using references, but the help from a few modellers on here with different painting methods and so on have moved things forward in leaps and bounds. Its also good to have a little bit of pressure from everyone else improving, I dont think we can underestimate that... it's like anything, everyone wants to 'up their game' which is really conducive to learning and stretching ourselves.

 

I think we are both learning from Ray, to be honest... You give me more credit than I deserve, I just sometimes nick his ideas a touch more quickly.😄

 

MTO..? (there's me using aconyms now!). That means I can do a desert Spitfire! Excellent... If only I can find one that doesnt have a Volkes filter! 😉

Edited by Bill Livingston
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ll certainly try to get some daylight pics - if nothing else it will help me pick up any bits that I need to redo! 
 

I think you are right about the group factor to improvement - particularly in a single type group - it’s the “that looks good, I’ll try it” factor. I’m re-scribing things and putting in rivet detail - not things I’d ever done before (well, not successfully!) 

 

If you fancy an Eduard IX in desert colours, I’ve got decals for a couple of Colin Gray’s aircraft that you’d be welcome to have - no big chins there! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here’s a photo in daylight of the underside (or what passes for daylight on a gloomy July morning in Southern England).

 

BD052970-732A-437F-8CA4-DAB73FA8648D

I’m happy with that - there are two areas which need a small amount of colour - the inboard side of the radiator housing and one edge of the Vokes filter - but overall it’s the effect I was going for. Masking this evening and hopefully the first top color camo.  
 

I’ve also realised that there are no fuselage bands, yellow leading edges or invasion stripes to worry about! Happy days!!!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Steve 1602 said:

I’m happy with that

So would I be... thats just fabulous, Steve!

 

Thats a really nice Azure Blue... amazing how different it looks from your photo in artificial light from last night...

 

1 hour ago, Steve 1602 said:

I’ve also realised that there are no fuselage bands, yellow leading edges or invasion stripes to worry about! Happy days!!!

 

I need to find something like that...! Even if it means putting up with a Volkes filter! (well, that's pushing it a bit...).

 

Superb though, Steve. I'm looking forward to your Middle Stone/Dark Earth camouflage now...

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

2 hours ago, Bill Livingston said:

Thats a really nice Azure Blue... amazing how different it looks from your photo in artificial light from last night...

Thanks Bill - yes it’s got quite a nice colour to it I think. It certainly looks close enough to some of the period colour photos I’ve been looking at - well close enough for me!

 

3 hours ago, Bill Livingston said:

 

I need to find something like that...! Even if it means putting up with a Volkes filter! (well, that's pushing it a bit...).

There are always the Mk Vs with an aboukir filter (available as aftermarket resin) or desert Mk VIIIs or IXs of course..... 😉

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some more progress this evening. A bit of time spent masking the lower surfaces and reducing my masking tape stockpile!

48BFC163-0C24-4F70-B8BE-0AB868577FBD

 

 

Then it was on with the middle stone.I applied several light coats and then toned down (or left) the pre-shading and marbling. 
 

7D4CDE3F-2104-4709-A037-7CBD14D98765

 

99D35A01-4413-418D-83AD-C07CCC677A3F

 

A410FEF3-168F-474A-9BD4-DC3437C3467A


I stopped at the point that I thought ‘one more coat’ - I’ll look at it tomorrow and decide if I need to apply any more middle stone or if I can get on with masking the camo pattern and laying down the dark earth. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Daylight comparison photos - I’m much happier with the colour in daylight than I was last night when I thought it might be a little too brown. I think I’ll probably move on to the dark earth. There are a couple of areas where I could improve colour density, but I think I’ll now wait until both camo colours are on and then I can target detailed areas as required.

 

98920600-79BD-4A9A-B40F-649A08DE71C3

 

54F55038-863A-49D7-912C-ED0A885C36BC

The stray hair and the talc dust has already been brushed off! These pics are always useful!

 

5B2B43AA-966E-4BB3-9B61-3D0A6918D241

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that looks just about right. The fading and variation looks almost exactly as in those colour references of desert camo Spitfires I posted on my thread a day or two ago... I really don't think you could do better! Congratulations... 

 

Once the Dark Earth is on the variations will look less, anyway... and you will probably need to do a lot with the dark earth to fade that, too, as obviously the pre-shading and mottling has been largely covered with the Middle Stone. I think you will find that once the Dark Earth is on, you won't need to change anything in the Middle Stone (and some of the areas you have reservations about will be under the Dark Earth anyway... so it won't even be an issue).

 

This is looking excellent... I keep looking at it and shaking my head in admiration.  I'm looking forward to seeing your next post!!!

 

 

Edited by Bill Livingston
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Bill, I took your advice and went with the dark earth. Quite a productive evening and I managed to mask up the camo pattern (again using paper templates cut from Tamiya instructions). Although I find this quite time consuming I like the end result.
 

9CD8C69B-8316-4D6B-8C8A-406744817D82


once the masks were on, I put some more white down to pre-fade some of the horizontal surfaces.

A9313AA9-E0A2-408B-89BA-F9ED8344E737


I then applied several light coats of dark earth and was able to remove the masking. I’ll look at it in daylight and decide if I need to do some touch ups or if I can go straight to gloss.

A3A372EF-3487-4B69-847C-E6B74F68A777

 

CB9D0149-7349-45CF-99DF-ADAF82E787A1

 

DAA0828F-775D-4E3C-9F35-ECD70AB70077

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some daylight pics to check things over.

 

I think it looks suitably ‘used’ without being abandoned, but would welcome thoughts.

 

4439AAC4-3E23-40AA-B161-259D1FBA6FD2

 

42D3B407-687C-49A4-ABD6-8144D28CCA75

 

78CDC182-3589-4B59-A967-40879EEA5928

 

6164325C-56DD-44F0-B600-9A81ABF38E59


The leading edge of the starboard wing could do with another pass, as could the port cannon cover and aileron trailing edge, but overall it looks ok and should darken up a little under the gloss coat. I have a couple of areas on the starboard wing where white is showing from a misted white coat at camo boundaries. Fortunately most of it will be covered by insignia and I’ll try to lightly sand back the rest. 
 

A couple of tweaks and gloss coat and decals over the weekend I reckon.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its hard to tell from photos to be honest, - I cant see the areas you think need an extra pass... well, maybe the port cannon fairing, but to be honest, its a prominent point on the wing and would fade in strong sunlight. Besides, I suppose it depends which was sprayed first in real life, the Middle Stone or the Dark Earth, to determine which colour would show through a worn area... Besides, washes and varnishes will change things quite a bit... I have been leaving those areas rather than redo them and not regretted it... but then thats me. In the end, I suppose only you can decide.

 

I think it looks suitably worn and will stand quite a lot of oils and leaks... but I don't know what you are aiming for in the end... These both seem very worn and faded... the top one os a well known photo... the lower one, less so... 

 

p?i=30446815b28b38f1de47431b925fcb09

 

spacer.png

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Bill - actually I’m using the top photo as one of my reference pictures along with this one from the IWM.

large_000000.jpg?_ga=2.180424548.2127343

 

The second photo isn’t one I’d seen before and again illustrates that some of these machines looked quite ‘lived-in’!
 

Overall I’m going for a faded, scuffed and worn look. I think I’m going to go straight to gloss and see what it looks like then. The patches that I saw this morning in the photo are not as readily apparent when looking at the model, so I can always touch up later. It’s trying to get the balance right that’s the challenge..... but then that’s the fun isn’t it? 😉 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That second picture is new to me, too... There is a LOT of paint missing from that leading edge!!!

 

You must be pretty pleased though, the Azure Blue looks very like the Azure Blue you have managed on your model...  there is a lot of dust and grime underneath those wings and a lot of oil streaking... I would be tempted to use pastels or powders rather than oil washes for that... at least I could wipe them off with a damp cloth if I hated it... or use a pigment binder it it looked about right (so I dont rub it all off myself by accident...!)

 

I just bought these the other day... I'm looking forward to using them... You probably have things like this already...

 

p?i=cea57248763a87c690cc0e8d5c2bfd26

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Bill Livingston said:

That second picture is new to me, too... There is a LOT of paint missing from that leading edge!!!

 

Yes indeed - and what’s surprising is that it looks azure blue over so much of it. I’m assuming it’s been heavily abraded by sand and grit from prop wash.

5 hours ago, Bill Livingston said:

I just bought these the other day... I'm looking forward to using them... You probably have things like this already...

 

p?i=cea57248763a87c690cc0e8d5c2bfd26

 

They look interesting- I don’t have any of that actually. I have a Tamiya weathering powder set, some Humbrol graphite powder for exhausts and then i also use Flory wash, MIG wash or oils and I have a couple of artists grey pencils.  It’s all a bit ad hoc really! 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Steve 1602 said:

I think I’m going to go straight to gloss and see what it looks like then. The patches that I saw this morning in the photo are not as readily apparent when looking at the model, so I can always touch up later. 

Except..... that those little patches kept bugging me and the more I looked at it, I wasn’t happy with the colour density of the dark earth against the middle stone. Nothing else for it and I re-masked the aircraft last night (yawn) and put down additional layers of dark earth.

 

Obviously this meant I’d lost some of the contrast, so I put down some highlights (dark earth mixed with white) to get to this

E32C6FF0-835B-4269-86A4-478C6FDAF2A2


and then I brought all of that together with some dark earth lightly misted over the fading.

 

55E6FA34-7FA2-4853-91CF-F39E393E2E02

 

98E9FA06-EB2F-46CC-BE8F-D70EEEC2E4C1

 

AE291C85-CCBF-43CF-987A-39B1DB7E846A

 

I’m much happier how that looks. I’ll leave it for an hour or so and then remove the masking - all being well I can then switch to the gloss coat. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats looking really good, Steve.

 

I thought it was fine before, but no-one knows better than me how important it is to feel absolutely happy with your work when building and painting your model. If there is something you are unhappy with, no matter how slight or insignificant to anyone else, it will just grown and the model will feel forever 'what if I had put that last bit of effort in?'

 

So congratulations for sticking to your feeling and doing the work to get it 'right'.

 

If more modellers did that, they would improve continually... and they would feel better and better about their work, which is what it is all about.

 

I'm looking forward to your decalling now... I'll be getting on with mine this afternoon, so seems we are back in step with our respective builds...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Bill; it’s definitely better to mull it over rather than pressing on. I’m certainly glad that I didn’t just press on instead took a pause and and took a little more time. I think you make a good point about feeling better about your own work - after all we are building them to put on our own shelves so it’s better to address the niggles! 
 

I glossed earlier and I might try some stencils tonight - I’m always a little wary of  decalling to soon after using Vallejo gloss because I thin it with water; It can sometimes be a little ‘grabby’ if I start too soon!

 

It will be good to see your VIII with decals on!
 

Here it is under gloss and ready for decals.

 

DCACCE77-661D-4CB6-A485-B72D0153C544

 

469CAEAC-DDAD-4420-9B27-A8D80A43A1D1

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good... the extra thought and the additional work is always rewarded by just feeling that you have done the best you can... and that is a really important feeling. How can you ever be happy with something knowing you didnt do your best...

 

Anyway, all looking good...

 

I'm not too keen on decalling, but it is always the point when you work out just how good everything is going to look when its finished. (Maybe thats why its so scary!)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats looking really good, Steve.

 

And you got ALL the decals on? Damn... I need to get a move on!

 

What do you use to clean all the setting solution off after decalling? I'm never sure. 

 

 

Edited by Bill Livingston
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Bill!

 

Fear not! The Airfix stencils are not as extensive as the Eduard ones you are using; it’s not a like-for-like comparison so don’t feel that I am being super-efficient. Rest assured that the decals on the Eduard kits I built took far longer!

 

For cleaning wetting solution, all I do is use dampened kitchen roll to wipe down the model and then go over it with a soft cleaning cloth (sunglasses type) to remove any stray kitchen roll fibres before sealing everything. That seems to work for microset/ microsol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...