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F4U-4 in Mufti (1/48 Hobby Boss)


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Hi all,

 

Don't expect much from me, but here's my victim:

 

sdjsa5bl.jpg

 

You may notice someone encroaching the social distancing- it is possible more will be heard from that party.

 

My general idea here is to see how I can "tweak" the kit a little bit without much pain and suffering to fix some less appealing aspects (gear leg cover shape, starvation victim fabric effect, etc).  I had another fairly good stare at the infamous -4 grin, and I think they have it about right in outline, but I didn't like the very shallow "insides", so I'm already thinking about that, too.

 

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4 hours ago, gingerbob said:

I had another fairly good stare at the infamous -4 grin, and I think they have it about right in outline, but I didn't like the very shallow "insides", so I'm already thinking about that, too.

HI bob

 

well, be interesting to see what you do.   I've not had a look at the the -4 problem for a while. ..

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012622-148-f4u-4-corsairs-academy-and-trumpeter/&do=findComment&comment=2674767

 

Just a jog, you can nab a new prop from the multiples Tamiya thoughtfully include all their P-47 kits. 

 

Here's a comparison of the three F4U-4 cowls

 HB left, Acad middle, Hase Right. Not a great pic but should highlight the difference. 

"004.jpg&key=70f7c31d070932c05559abfb2a30

 

there used to be a really handy inflight head on shot in the link,  though this may also be of help, which shows one thing Academy did best was the grin...

f4u-4_bu97388_front_view-jpg.405285

 

 

I'll have to dig out my Corsair box as well, I'd done some pretty brutal things to the Academy -4, but got stuck on the belly and wing. 

 

Note in the link Corsaircorp think the HB belly is too high/flat,  but both the Hase and Academy are too deep in the fuselage...

 

 I did subsequently pick up the CMK conversion cheap ish off ebay, but it's present location eludes me....   

raiders_of_the_lost_ark_end.jpg?w=604

 

Be interesting to see what you research turns up? 

 

cheers

T

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I shall follow with great interest. I have heard that the CMK offering may be 'challenging' to mate to the kit. Military Illustrated Modeller 31 November 2013 has an article using the True Details nose and prop but they seem to be unobtainium nowadays.

@Troy Smith My laugh to your post is the warehouse picture, I have worked in places just like that.

 

@gingerbob Handling it roughly will be the right decision. Spare the rod spoil the child.......

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While we're on the subject of smiles:

 

P9vtzMuh.jpg

 

Tamiya -1 / Hobby Boss -4 / Hasegawa -7  (Hasegawa: "Does this cowl make my cheeks look fat?")  (They're all round- the photo makes them look a little funny.)

 

I had thought of using a chunk of Hobbycraft cowl to replace the "upper lip", in order to get a deeper duct.  But when I pulled out the piece, Hobbycraft's ring is very thick and blunt.  At this point I'm tempted to shrug and hope that I can just do some kind of trompe l'oeil effect.  I don't think the corners of the mouth are quite as vertical as should be, but it looks more sincere than the slightly forced grin of the Hasegawa.  I want a happy Corsair!

 

 

 

I may be wrong, but it seems as if the wing is molded for flaps down (the gap-fillers on the underside are "tucked up") while the flaps (or instructions) are intended to be retracted.  When I get to it, I'll experiment with ways to have 'em down (possibly substituting another kit's flaps?), since I think I'd prefer that pose.  I was intending to start with some of the sandwich parts anyway- rudder, flaps, ailerons, etc.  I like to get some of those mundane "assemblies" out of the way- and it feels as if you're actually accomplishing something when you glue 'em together!

Edited by gingerbob
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On 28/05/2020 at 17:09, Troy Smith said:

I did subsequently pick up the CMK conversion cheap ish off ebay, but it's present location eludes me....   

erm, stashed in a box marked AM (after Market)  although the box was a lot smaller than I remembered.... along with with half stuffed in the box an Aires P&W R-2800....The CMK kit misses out the engine the different front reduction gear. 

At least when I thought about it was stashed somewhere sensible.   Which was reassuring. 

 

On 29/05/2020 at 17:02, gingerbob said:

Tamiya -1 / Hobby Boss -4 / Hasegawa -7  (Hasegawa: "Does this cowl make my cheeks look fat?")  (They're all round- the photo makes them look a little funny.)

 

I had thought of using a chunk of Hobbycraft cowl to replace the "upper lip", in order to get a deeper duct.  But when I pulled out the piece, Hobbycraft's ring is very thick and blunt.  At this point I'm tempted to shrug and hope that I can just do some kind of trompe l'oeil effect.  I don't think the corners of the mouth are quite as vertical as should be, but it looks more sincere than the slightly forced grin of the Hasegawa.

just to state the blinkin obvious,  the -7 is based on -5 cowl, which was a major redesign,  so 'grin' may well be different.   Right now I don't fancy going on an image hunt to check though.

 

next time I get chance I'll dig out the relevant kits from storage elsewhere and do some cross checking.

 

cheers

T

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Hi gang, Hey, I actually did something!  It ain't much, but "spot the difference":

 

bXozqHBl.jpg

 

Now that you've had a moment, here's a comparison of Hasegawa -7 (and now I'll compare belly shapes to Troy's underside shot, which I think was in the thread he linked to- here), Tamiya -1, and Hobby Boss -4.

 

n973Wo3h.jpg

 

Still frustrated?  The starboard (left side of image) front well cutout has been altered, using the Tamiya cover as a guide.  The port side is as the kit provides.  The cutout probably isn't as critical as the shape of that door where they like to put numbers, but I figured it was worth a bit of carving.

Edited by gingerbob
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In the last couple of days I've glued some of the bits up, etched the obligatory thumb-print on the rudder, and given myself another neck/eye-strain headache.  Oh, to be young again!  I also stuck the right "behind the cockpit" sections on the respective fuselage halves (the kit includes the normal and late (with small bump to raise the roof) styles.  There's a small gap down the centerline, which'll be no big deal to eliminate.

 

I've also cast some covetous glances at the Tamiya and Hasegawa kits, but haven't really done anything to them... yet.

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1 hour ago, gingerbob said:

In the last couple of days I've glued some of the bits up, etched the obligatory thumb-print on the rudder, and given myself another neck/eye-strain headache.  Oh, to be young again!  I also stuck the right "behind the cockpit" sections on the respective fuselage halves (the kit includes the normal and late (with small bump to raise the roof) styles.  There's a small gap down the centerline, which'll be no big deal to eliminate.

 

I've also cast some covetous glances at the Tamiya and Hasegawa kits, but haven't really done anything to them... yet.

I understand what you mean about the tamiya or hase kits. The Hobbyboss beast is very fussy by comparison.  Have you put together the tail wheel assembly yet? Or tried fitting it in the fuse? I am about to join up the fuselage, and it's like an old Airfix kit with all the sub assemblies to juggle in to place. 

 

good luck 👍 

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On 02/06/2020 at 19:49, gingerbob said:

 

 

Now that you've had a moment, here's a comparison of Hasegawa -7 (and now I'll compare belly shapes to Troy's underside shot, which I think was in the thread he linked to- here), Tamiya -1, and Hobby Boss -4.

 

n973Wo3h.jpg

 

Still frustrated?  The starboard (left side of image) front well cutout has been altered, using the Tamiya cover as a guide.  The port side is as the kit provides.  The cutout probably isn't as critical as the shape of that door where they like to put numbers, but I figured it was worth a bit of carving.

 

well, I retrieved various Corsair kits, and have been looking at what I had as a problem with the Academy underside, having looked at the CMK centre section as well as the Hobby Boss,  but also managed to find this image, which I got online,  and now can't remember, it's not mine, but it's the most useful shot I have found of a -4 underside

 

49979158071_231ddea090_o.jpg

showing how the -4 bits are added on to the basic -1 underside, as in the fillets between fuselage and wing, blending in the new nose. and the high gloss and reflections neatly show up the shapes.  Also non of the kits show that rear section is a vent, not solid.

 

I may have even worked out the final part of the puzzle on my Academy butchery, I mean corrections.   It's been so long I'm having difficulty remembering what I did, and where the photos are stored! 

 

cheers

T

PS looking at the pic VS HB, look like the HB is a bit bloated?

 

 

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Great shot, Troy (as I began to reply several days ago).  Yes, I think HB's belly might be a bit "paunchy", but considering where it is, I'm judging it good enough.  I'm not entirely convinced that Hasegawa's is any more accurate, just approaching from the other direction.  (And that's remembering that Hase's is a -7, which may or may not make a difference.)

 

So I'm sitting here at 3:30am, knowing that I ought to say something about the wing panels, and (for once) I thought, "Well, why not now?"

 

4p7sxW2l.jpg

 

Tamiya above, Hobby Boss below.  Seriously?  Not being a fan of dissections, this sort of thing annoys me.  I don't mind providing some "gee whiz" detail as an option, but I'd much rather have the doors in place with an easy to follow thin spot where you need to cut them out if desired (and they could still provide better detailed "open" panels, rather than making you cut intricate separations.

 

And yet...

 

ZtHEwqEl.jpg

 

It all went together remarkably well.  One panel is slightly proud on one edge (or in one corner), but I think that'll blend in with the most tender caress from some 60 grit (just kidding) sanding.  The worst, which this photo actually shows perhaps more than you'd see, is that panel between the two narrow (chordwise) ones.  Part of that is my own enthusiasm with the knife, but it is also ever-so-short for the space.  Nevertheless, I think a bit of paint- perhaps with a touch of primer- will make it all blend in.  I always tell myself that in reality these sorts of things don't always fit perfectly precisely anyway.  Maybe not strictly true (though I HAVE spent some time fitting panels back onto airplanes) but it makes me feel better, and that's what really matters!

 

There are also some obligatory blemishes where the Extra-Thin wicked under my finger.  I cleverly applied it on the inside surface, thinking that you then wouldn't see any "echo" from the glue application.  Hopefully a quick smoothing will... umm, smooth those blemishes out.  The one on the rudder is probably worse, but it ain't that bad, neither.

 

By the way, I haven't quite made my mind up about the representation of fabric.  In naked plastic it looks a bit overdone (for a Corsair).  In one of Tom Cleaver's builds he says (with the usual piddle and vinegar) that it really looks OK under some paint (in his case the usual dark blue).  I'm already half-convinced (which is kind of a paradox, if you think about it) that it'll be OK.  If I turn out to be wrong I can always jump up and down on top of the model until it is smashed to smithereens.  Or shrug and whinge about how terribly model companies represent fabric (you think THAT'S bad, you should see...)

 

And yes, meanwhile the Ghost of Tamiya Future is whispering suggestions in my ear... (not instead, in addition)

Edited by gingerbob
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12 hours ago, gingerbob said:

Yes, I think HB's belly might be a bit "paunchy", but considering where it is, I'm judging it good enough.  I'm not entirely convinced that Hasegawa's is any more accurate, just approaching from the other direction.  (And that's remembering that Hase's is a -7, which may or may not make a difference.)

I think the -7 make quite a difference, the -5 was longer, and the AU-1 and -7 were based on this.

 

What we have is another Hobby Boss boo boo.... I think they have used the same belly design on their -4 as they did for the -5/7 kits, in the way the used the same outer wing panels with the fabric.    I think they tried on the kit,  they did tool up the FAA short wing.  

 

Anyway, for you delectation, 

49996357017_72c738d91d_b.jpg50620055 by losethekibble, on Flickr

top Academy -4B

middle L-R  - Hase -7, HB -4,  CMK resin -4 

lower L-R  Tamiya -1, Hasegawa -4

 

The Hase -7 and HB -4 are pretty close,  I suspect the CMK -4 is based on study of the Red Bull -4 based in Austria.

 

Not visible here, but the  HB -4 is quite flat at the point where it meets the cowling.    

 

 

The CMK conversion is quite impressive, I got one off ebay for about half what Hannants charge (£40!!!!!)  and I also have a Tamiya -1 that I got cheap as some clown had ruined the centre section trying to fit resin wheel wells (the -1 above is the 2nd attempt that I also got) which is fortunate as that is the bit that the CMK replaces.

 

Hope of interest. I might have a poke at the HB wing fabric,  I got a -4 with the wrong outer wing panels, got correct replacements so have the FAA ones surplus to play with.

And, yes I'm contemplating adding a build of my own.....

 

hope of interest 

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Thanks for the comprehensive comparison!  (We have to remember that Hasegawa's -4 has very different genetics to their -7 (etc) kits.  And of course having made the comment about -7 vs. -4 bellies, I find myself wondering, but haven't tried to find out.  (I'm assuming that Hasegawa uses the same lower wing for all of their late (-5 and on) Corsairs.  I've got all of them, but am not planning to rummage through to see.  I also think that I MUST have Detail & Scale part 2, but I haven't been able to put my hand on it. Edit: having looked up a photo of the cover online, I don't think I DO have that one.  Glad I didn't keep looking!)

 

Yesterday my daughter hogged the computer (I need to get my desktop one fixed!) so, cut off from my various Spitfire "work" I resorted to actually working on a model (!)

 

Sorry, no big reveal, suddenly ready for paint.  But, having done the one gear-leg cutout mod and the one upper wing panel, I'd been aware that that was only "part 1 of 2", so I got the other ones taken care of, with similar results.  In other words, a few more fingerprints to buff out, another poke in the fingertip with the XActo blade's tip, and again the "in-between" piece was not quite as wide as the space it was supposed to fill. 

 

I also joined the halves of the flap sections I hadn't already, except the starboard inboard.  Tamiya, infamously, gives you the (basically inappropriate) rectangular hole boarding step.  Hobby Boss gives you a rectangle in panel lines, upper surface only, when this version SHOULD have the hole.  And no, I can't just directly swap the respective flap sections.  Grumble!  A very preliminary test suggests that it may not be THAT hard to have HB's flaps down, though definitely not directly catered for in the kit (and yet they go to the trouble of molding each flap section- three to a side- in separate top and bottom halves.)

 

A Public Service Announcement: I'm not "down" on Hobby Boss, nor am I really complaining as much as it sounds like I am.  I'm just "interested" in the concept of creating a model kit, and so I think about those choices that a company/designer makes, and how it turns out when in the hands of the innocent victim modeller.  Incidentally, another HB builder ('Greg Destec') commented on the somewhat sketchy instructions.  I started test fitting the "U" spar that is visible in the wheel well, and an inboard rib that contains wing-fold detail and wheel-well wall detail, and both took a little looking at parts to figure out how they are really meant to fit (if I get ambitious later I'll add some visual aids).  Actually, the rib seemed to kind of float around in the wing opening, so I guess I'm not there yet with that piece...

 

And meanwhile I look again at Tamiya's (48th) instructions and sprues, and imagine how, even though it looks sort of complicated, everything would (in my fantasy, at least) just slide together like LEGOs.  I can see how some people consider that a bit boring, and I do enjoy the challenge of getting a kit assembled "right" (or "as well as possible allowing for my own fumbling"), but I can also see the appeal.  Some people seem to want to have an airframe ready as soon as possible so they can get to painting.  I kind of dread painting (mostly for lack of confidence) and enjoy the assembly process.  No, really, I do!

Edited by gingerbob
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Hi GB,

 

I'm pleased to see a fellow modeller having the same experiences as I am with this manufacturer. I was starting to think I was getting too used to the shake and bake kits. 

 

Wait till you get to the engine assembly, particularly the exhaust pipes 😤 

 

Cheers Greg 😁

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