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Lockheed PV1 and Lodestar in 1.48 (Civil) )


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5 hours ago, DMC said:

Cockpit top (roof) looks good, Rob.  Naturally I had to go about it a different way.  I Sculpted, baked and carved a mould and vacuum formed three windscreen/top piece in plain white styrene.  I found awhile back that an opaque moulding is easier to fit to a fuselage then a clear on.  The one on the fuselage is the first one vaced and it came out near perfect, except the shape of the top is a bit off.  The next one had too much sag as I left it in the oven too long.  Too much sag means too much styrene and the result is webbing.

 

The final one is pretty good.  I reshaped the mould and let the oven cool down a bit and got no webbing.  I’ll fit this one to the opening and use it as a pattern for the clear one I’ll do in PETG.  

 

I used the shape of your finished ‘roof” as a guide.

 

Dennis

 

 

Interesting variation, able man!

It's hard to tell from here in California, but the pinch looks pronounced, and the angle steep. It may be a product of the photo angle, or perhaps your variant requires it (I have been lost for a long while regarding what specific variants/subjects you too are playing with).

No matter, great modeling displayed.

 

 

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2 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

If you are nervous about the clear window panels

 Not so much nervous as not wanting to ruin the piece as it is indeed my plan B.  Unlike you, however, I have little to no experience in polishing out scratches in transparencies.  I suppose the idea is to keep from putting in deep scratches to begin with and going slow with fine abrasives. 

 

I had thought removing all the framework, restoring the finish and then painting the frames back using masks.  I’ll get into this a little more when the time comes.

 

Thanks for your advice and suggestions, Rob

 

Dennis

 

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2 hours ago, Moa said:

Interesting variation, able man!

Well thank you, Moa.  You are correct on both counts and even from several thousands of miles away.  Since the photo I have reduced the pinch somewhat and increased the angle of the centre frame.  Working “in the white” to use a luthier’s term, eases the job of fitting and correcting for tired old eyes.

 

Rob and I are both working on a Venture/Lodestar conversion.  The Lodestar itself being, more or less, a Model 14 Super Electra (think I got that right).

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Moa said:

You two are doing an exceptional job.

Thanks again, Moa, and if you work out how to manage the Benjamin Button trick i’d appreciate a heads-up.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

 

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42 minutes ago, DMC said:

Rob and I are both working on a Venture/Lodestar conversion.  The Lodestar itself being, more or less, a Model 14 Super Electra (think I got that right).

Thanks, Dennis.

Having sorted out a number of things for obscure aircraft, you would think these conversions/adaptations would be attainable for me, but the arcane and intricate mysteries of these Lockheed planes only manage to give me headaches.

 

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Passengers ventilation outlets are in the process of being attempted.

Various ideas were considered, finally whittled down to this...... 

Skinny sprue frame at 2mm from a previous 1/100 scale kit, and it's slightly out of register so it gives a bit of an oval shape in cross-section. 

And 2mm holes through at the plotted points above the windows. 

Round needle file worked fore and aft in the hole to elongate it enough to let the oval sprue stick in. 

IMG_20200809_235434

One is done there and the sprue is being rounded and and prepared for the next. 

3done..... 

IMG_20200810_000629

The one opposite the door is going to be noticed inside unless it's trimmed right back nice and short. 

Protrusion wise, I'm just eyeballing it. 

The only hassle is if it goes in too far there's no way to get it back out. 

All you can do is push it right through, loose it and try another piece of stick . 

How do I know.....?? 😶

"In an ideal world it might be sensible to sort these out before the sides are joined.", says Captain Sensible. 

To which I reply.... 

"Well Where's the fun in THAT.....?!" 

😇

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The nose cap, and a spare, are done.  A simple plunge using balsa moulds and .040 styrene.  A little more shaping needed to get it blended just right.

 

resized_22e6e71d-7444-498e-9266-31e7e1de

 

resized_95fd6d73-f841-4d9f-bd9d-8cb42223

 

Thanks for dropping in

 

Dennis

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7 hours ago, DMC said:

I do like this scheme.

Very stylish. 

And it seems to be popular on the flight simulator scene too.... 

olixsiml18_43

 

I guess there are NO options available for decal sheets in this scale. Why would anyone make after market material for a kit that doesn't exist!? 

It's conceivable that someone like Drawdecal could upscale the 1.72 sheet I guess, but no guarantee of a good match. 

An Aussie outfit called Red Roo Decals might have something going. They specialise in Australian stuff I think. 

Dcrfan said he's going for a military transport.......?? 

I want something very simple with maximum metal showing. 

I spotted the Lloyd Aereo Boliviano planes which look to be the job, except the examples I have seen have the P&W Twin Wasps with cooling flaps. 

I wasn't planning on going down that route again! 

😎

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9 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

I want something very simple with maximum metal showing. 

customAs you would after all your foiling efforts.  Should I get to that stage I will probably do the same.  Doling out cash for a set of custom decals ain’t in it.  Besides, I like the look of “our favourite polished” one.

 

Pulled the first try of a PETG windscreen yesterday.  PETG tricky to work with and results less than satisfactory as even the most minut imperfection on the mould are noticeable on the clear.  I’ll try once more and if disappointing I’ll follow your suggestions for the kit piece.

 

You probably already know everything in this link but it was a good read for me as it brought me up to speed on “Twins”.  Quite a long piece.

 

Dennis

 

https://warfarehistorynetwork.com/2016/08/15/lockheeds-electra-and-lodestar/

 

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6 hours ago, DMC said:

 

Pulled the first try of a PETG windscreen yesterday.  PETG tricky to work with and results less than satisfactory as even the most minut imperfection on the mould are noticeable on the clear.  I’ll try once more and if disappointing I’ll follow your suggestions for the kit piece.

I miliputed and sanded the buck for the second Caproni canopy and was very careful not to overheat the Petg, I got pretty good results but it’s not a very forgiving material.

50148678042_1325e87070_c.jpg

 

 

Edited by Marklo
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1 hour ago, Marklo said:

it’s not a very forgiving material.

Indeed it is not.  I’ve had better results plung moulding PETG than I have with vacuum forming.  Had a good look on Bing today and happened across a suggestion to leave one of the two protective films, the one that contacts the mould, on to protect the PETG from scratches on the mould.  I tried it and got, I think, a useable pull. 

 

I see see if I can turn it into something presentable and if not I still have the kit one.

 

Also put the landing light in the nose cap.

 

Thanks Marklo 

 

Dennis

 

 

resized_77ab664b-65f2-48b6-9b4b-65429896

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1 hour ago, DMC said:

Also put the landing light in the nose cap.

Unwontedly I'm ending up with one of these too! 

I've been making inroads on the nose piece with some heavy duty abrasives to round the shape back more in accordance with the drawings. There's a fair old thickness to the clear plastic but it looks like I've taken it to the max. 

As I was foiling it in 2 halves my blade just kind of fell through the joint right at that position. 

They don't all have a light there, but I'll either patch it up or go with it and fit one. 

Edited by rob Lyttle
Spelins
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Here's what I have done on the Lodestar, due to having to work and the awful heat. * 34 - 35° * doesn't suit me at all. 😕

That's way too close to body temp for efficient cooling......!! 

IMG_20200813_234558

5 vents along the port side, 3 foiled over. 

Preparations are underway on the other side and I'm getting the hang of it. And one wrong hole filled again..... (!) 

Main wheel outsides are filled in with pva and the hope is that the surface will give a convex hubcap shape. If it doesn't, the pva should be removable, but it's looking okay so far. Also in the picture is the tailwheel assembly with the suspension scissor thing removed. 

Bit of a crisis with the tail mod on the starboard side. It's kind of blistered away from the kit tail surface inside and looks bulged. 

And that side was a bit more standing proud when it came to the join up and got more thinning than was good for it. 

I decided to go in there and try to get some glue in to repair the blister area which, when clamped, produces surplus plastic at the main joint. 

IMG_20200813_232557

 

All a bit of a mess right now, but let's face it, it's just a bunch of plastic that is due for a little revision..... 🤠‼️

 

 

*USA dwellers should multiply by 9, divide by 5, and add 32.

That's "loads" according to my calculations.... 

Like when you walk out of the doors at Miami Airport in November and you are still carrying your big coat..... 😎

 

Edited by rob Lyttle
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On 8/11/2020 at 9:22 AM, rob Lyttle said:

An Aussie outfit called Red Roo Decals might have something going. They specialise in Australian stuff I think. 

Ask @Ed Russell

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A couple of things done: TL- this is the best .of the vacuum form windscreens I experimented with.  It could work with a little more fettling.  TR- but the fit is not as good as the kit one and so I shall use it.  I managed to sand off the upper framework without ruining it and might try foiling the remaining framework and the top. BL-another application of Kristal Klear on the side windows brings it out a bit more.  A few minute flecks of styrene dust can be seen because I neglected to dust it off before applying the Klear. BR- the nose cone cemented on and faired in.  After painting a drop of Klear will do for the lense cover.

 

Thanks for dropping in 

 

Dennis

 

 

resized_e2f6b427-8c48-4852-8caf-f4d405f4

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Tidy work on all counts, Dennis 

A zoom in on the vac canopy seems to show a sort of curved or bulged tendency on the window panels. Is that down to the process of making? 

Good results on the kit transparency. That's fitting better than mine. You saw the little lugs I fitted to hold the bottom corners splayed to correct the fit. 

 

I have repairs in hand for the tail end of mine. Feeling mildly optimistic about it. 

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