Tamiya Alpine A110 1:24

[MR2Don]

Chapeau! as the French say. "1600" and "SC" in particular look spot on!

[Bengalensis]

It's really good seeing this coming together.

PM your postal address and I'll send you the missing Alpine script for the nose.

[johnlambert]

Well, it's one step forward, two steps back with the Alpine tonight as I realised that I applied the decal for the rear number plate upside down.  At least I can use the alternative French registration plate.  No photos as I've not had a chance to take any.

 

I did gather together a bunch of parts that needed a coat of satin black, including the Alpine's front number plate.

 

A little more progress on the Cibie lights.  I'm quite pleased with how they've turned out.

[Bengalensis]

I'll send you that number plate as well, I have many unused ones.

[johnlambert]

@Bengalensis thank you so much, it's really appreciated.

[Toftdale]

Hi John,

I am just about to start the same kit, so came across your thread (and this forum) whilst looking up the kit on Google.   Yours is looking good and you have definitely not chosen the easiest colour the spray.  The bonnet fitment you have seams to be a very common issue on all the builds I have seen,  so with the benefit of hindsight and plenty of dry fitting I believe the issue may be caused by the tab on the end of the chassis (part A1).  This tab is flat but fits into the rear of the shell which is curved, which results in the chassis siting very slightly higher in the shell, thus causing the engine to interfere with the bonnet.   Unfortunately if I am correct you would need to take the model apart in order to correct it, which I am sure you will be aware is tight enough when its just the shell and floor plan.  The other fix I have seen it to make a bonnet stay and display the car with the bonnet open (a genius work around).  Good luck with the rest of the build, I hope you don't mind my two penneth worth.  Regards Andy

[johnlambert]

Here, for the sake of completeness, is what it looks like with the number plate mocked up in place.  What's the best way to remove a decal?

 

From this side the engine cover fit doesn't seem too bad.

 

@Toftdale Hi Andy, thanks for your reply and input, although it's a long time since I did the bulk of the build I have to say that the kit goes together really well on the whole, I hope you post pictures of your build.  In retrospect I think I should have chosen a different colour but I'm pleased with how it has turned out and at least I've saved it from sitting, half completed, on a shelf somewhere.

[Bengalensis]

21 minutes ago, johnlambert said:

What's the best way to remove a decal?

If the decal is well dried and stuck I often place a piece of tape on it, rubbing it down and then lifting it off. Sometimes it works at once, sometimes it needs repeating. With this being such a small part you might just strip it of both decal and paint and start over.

 

A letter went in the mailbox today.

[Spiny]

52 minutes ago, johnlambert said:

Here, for the sake of completeness, is what it looks like with the number plate mocked up in place.  What's the best way to remove a decal?

 

I appreciate this is going to sound off, but the best thing I've found for localised removal is Microset - apply it, then once it's soaked in there's a good chance you'll be able to lift it (if you're really, really lucky you may even manage it in one piece!).

 

Not the case for this one, but for a whole car I just give it a good soak in soapy water followed by standing in the ultrasonic bath. Good work on the car too, now I'm looking forward to when mine makes its way to the head of the stash.

[johnlambert]

1 hour ago, Bengalensis said:

If the decal is well dried and stuck I often place a piece of tape on it, rubbing it down and then lifting it off. Sometimes it works at once, sometimes it needs repeating. With this being such a small part you might just strip it of both decal and paint and start over.

 

A letter went in the mailbox today.

Thank you again.  I'm not very happy with the finish of the number plate surround anyway so a fresh coat of paint can't do any harm if I have to redo it anyway.

[johnlambert]

58 minutes ago, Spiny said:

I appreciate this is going to sound off, but the best thing I've found for localised removal is Microset - apply it, then once it's soaked in there's a good chance you'll be able to lift it (if you're really, really lucky you may even manage it in one piece!).

 

Not the case for this one, but for a whole car I just give it a good soak in soapy water followed by standing in the ultrasonic bath. Good work on the car too, now I'm looking forward to when mine makes its way to the head of the stash.

I might try lifting the decal, just to see if I can get it off in one go.  I've got nothing to lose.

 

As I think I've said before, it's a good kit and most if not all the issues I've had were of my own making.  I look forward to seeing how yours turns out.

[Spiny]

Good to hear that it's a good kit, but I'm afraid you might have a bit of a wait until I get around to mine. There's a few ahead of it in the stash, so on current projections I'm expecting to be building it sometime in 2022 (yes, I do have a sort of  build order in there)

 

[johnlambert]

O.K. time to pick this one back up.

 

Decals from @Bengalensis arrived in the week.

 

The front of the Alpine looking a bit bare.

 

I thought I'd have a practice with a painted spoon and my old metal transfers.  Let's just say it didn't go well and I won't be sharing the "after" photo...

 

Front number plate dry fitted to give a guide for adding the A L P I N E script.

 

Halfway there, it's a bit wonky but better than nothing.

 

And the other half.  These metal transfers went on like a dream, I wonder if my old ones were defective in some way?

 

I also had a missing "A" from the front wing, lost to the carpet monsters.  But the replacement sheet had one so I thought I'd try and replace it.

 

There it is, I think I got the SC and 1600 badges the wrong way round but you'd be hard pressed to notice unless it's a close-up photo like this.

 

Coming soon: number plate decals, spot lamps and I think it will be ready for inspection.  Thanks to everyone who has followed and reacted to my posts, even more so if you have commented and suggested something.

[Spiny]

Looks good, I was just thinking that you looked close to completion then saw your last bit about only needing a couple of pieces before the RFI thread - I'll look forward to it.

 

I appreciate this is a bit late to help on this, but hopefully it will on a future build - when Tamiya do their 'metal' transfers for a name like that it's usually spaced out as it should be to go on the car. Makes it much easier if you do the whole lot in one go rather than separating as you've done, although I know that raises the risk of all the metal not being stuck down correctly when you lift the backing.

[MR2Don]

3 minutes ago, Spiny said:

Makes it much easier if you do the whole lot in one go rather than separating as you've done, although I know that raises the risk of all the metal not being stuck down correctly when you lift the backing.

Good hint, thanks.

[johnlambert]

17 minutes ago, Spiny said:

Looks good, I was just thinking that you looked close to completion then saw your last bit about only needing a couple of pieces before the RFI thread - I'll look forward to it.

 

I appreciate this is a bit late to help on this, but hopefully it will on a future build - when Tamiya do their 'metal' transfers for a name like that it's usually spaced out as it should be to go on the car. Makes it much easier if you do the whole lot in one go rather than separating as you've done, although I know that raises the risk of all the metal not being stuck down correctly when you lift the backing.

No worries, I was trying to work out how to get it all down in one go but trying to trim everything to fit around the bumpers was a bit of a challenge and these transfers seemed almost too keen to stick.  I've got a Jaguar Mk.II and a couple of Austin Mini Coopers with metal transfers, so I'll get plenty of practice with these difficult things. 

[johnlambert]

Time for the number plates.

 

I bought some of this to see how it would help the decals lay down.

 

Following the instructions to brush Micro Set on the surface just caused the decal to curl under and I couldn't get it to go flat.  This was the result.

 

Second go just with water to get the decal onto the model, then Micro Set to help it lay down.

 

Rear number plate in all its upside down glory.  It was brushed down with Micro Set.

 

It wouldn't lift off cleanly but it did scrape off with a sharp blade.

 

Applied with water and then brushed over with Micro Set and pressed down with a damp paper towel.

 

Both plates together, I'll leave them over night to dry before sticking them to the model.

[johnlambert]

Another tricky part of the assembly.

 

Believe it or not the model is resting nearly upright on the back bumper, propped against the open lid of a plastic toolbox.  The reason is so that the giant Cibie spot lamps are held in place by gravity until the glue dries.  The alternative would be trying to prop them with the ca on its wheels or holding them with tape that might damage the decals.  In any case it's a good excuse to admire the front suspension detail (Tamiya's work apart from the painting, which is mine).  There is an almost clear panel that you're supposed to paint satin black that goes over (under?) this detail but I'm a little reluctant to fit it as I like seeing the suspension and I can't get the clear part clear enough to be satisfactory.

[MR2Don]

3 hours ago, johnlambert said:

There is an almost clear panel that you're supposed to paint satin black that goes over (under?) this detail but I'm a little reluctant to fit it as I like seeing the suspension and I can't get the clear part clear enough to be satisfactory.

Agreed. All of the A110 kits do this, but, as you say, is it really worth it? If you paint it all suspension and engine underside details is hidden, if you don't, that detail can't be seen clearly because of the "frosting" on the clear parts. I'm with you, I'll leave them off.

[johnlambert]

Right, I think this will be the last WIP update.  All the parts are in place and I just need to do some pretty photos.

 

 

 

 

It looks like it's tripodding but that is because of the cutting mat.

 

The glass in the wing mirror is a metal transfer, secured with a drop of PVA.  Someohw the engine cover seems to be sitting better now, but I haven't done anything to adjust it.

 

I'll post a link to RFI once I get some pretty pictures.

[MR2Don]

Lovely, John. If you've got the money, there's a real one for sale not that far from here. Been there quite a while and the best I can say is it's price has gone up by over £20k in the time it's been there. 1300 engine, built by FASA in Spain in 1971!

Needless to say, I haven't got that money or I would have had it by now. Not many things could replace my dear old MR2, but one of those, slightly shorter, slightly narrower, a bit lower and half the weight (!!) might just do.

Edited August 16, 2020 by MR2Don

[Spiny]

That looks like a good result, and as you say I couldn't work out the logic for the frosted clear chassis when I opened the box - all I could think of was that it's there to avoid having to mould another sprue.

 

I'm surprised at the problem you had with the MicroSet - never seen that before. The worst I've had is that the decal sometimes held in the wrong place when I first applied it, but adding more Microset or water allowed it to be moved into the correct position. Hope I didn't give you duff advice steering you towards  MicroSet.

[johnlambert]

10 minutes ago, Spiny said:

That looks like a good result, and as you say I couldn't work out the logic for the frosted clear chassis when I opened the box - all I could think of was that it's there to avoid having to mould another sprue.

 

I'm surprised at the problem you had with the MicroSet - never seen that before. The worst I've had is that the decal sometimes held in the wrong place when I first applied it, but adding more Microset or water allowed it to be moved into the correct position. Hope I didn't give you duff advice steering you towards  MicroSet.

I agree about the clear under tray parts and Tamiya making best use of space on the sprues.

 

The decals got a brush of MicroSol today, which really helped them go flat.  I think it was more my technique that was lacking; I didn't quite get the decal cleanly off the backing paper, the bottom edge curled under and the softening effect of the MicroSet just made it worse.

[Hamden]

 

A very nice result and the colour you have chosen makes a nice change from the usual blue as well as suiting the car.

 

           Roger

[johnlambert]

Since I was messing about with washes I thought I'd have a go on the Alpine.

 

The front compartment cover could do with a bit of a lift.

 

From a distance I think that was a success.

 

Up close it seems to have taken a bit of gloss off the paint, there were traces of yellow on the cotton bud, which is worrying as this had a coat of Tamiya clear.  Fingers crossed that it will polish back up.  I was going to do the doors but I'm not going to risk making a mess of the paint at this stage.