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Tamiya Alpine A110 1:24


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Well, the chrome seemed to go OK so I thought I'd try and apply the metal transfers.  Well, whoever thought they were a good idea?  If I never see any more it will be too soon, and some of the Alpine's have disappeared never to be seen again (the A L P I N E script for the front of the car).  Only one set stuck neatly, the rest were determined to stick to the plastic film and not adhere to the body.

 

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I've applied as many as I can and sprayed a coat of Tamiya clear in the hope that it will stick them down.  Frankly, I'd much rather have had some waterslide decals.

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On 22/07/2020 at 00:08, Pascal said:

Not a fan of the color, but nice paintjob John.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

I could have gone for pink (see linked post). 😆

 

 

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A bit late now, but for future reference, I tend to apply the metal transfers to clear decal (there are often areas of carrier film in and around other decals if you don’t have any separate stuff). Easier to rub down v firmly on a flat sheet. Then peel off the clear vinyl layer and add a bit of Future type clear or Mr Gauzy to wick around the letters and seal them in place. Once it’s dry, apply the whole thing like a regular decal...

best,

M.

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That's coming together nicely, despite the setbacks.   I've never built a Tamiya car kit, let alone heard of metal transfers, so this is all a bit alien to me.  I like Mr Bacon's solution.

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I must admit that I quite enjoyed the metal-style transfers on the Skyline (I think they're the only ones I've done though). Best advice I can give it to burnish it well down until you're absolutely sure it's stuck, then burnish it some more. After that, peel off the backing paper very slowly, looking closely to make sure it's not even starting to lift. Sounds like a right faff, but get it right and it's surprisingly therapeutic.

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47 minutes ago, Spiny said:

I must admit that I quite enjoyed the metal-style transfers on the Skyline (I think they're the only ones I've done though). Best advice I can give it to burnish it well down until you're absolutely sure it's stuck, then burnish it some more. After that, peel off the backing paper very slowly, looking closely to make sure it's not even starting to lift. Sounds like a right faff, but get it right and it's surprisingly therapeutic.

Thanks for the advice.  What did you use to burnish the metal transfers?

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A tiny bit more progress.

 

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Front radiator, side windows, rear view mirror and back bumpers glued on with PVA.

 

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I've also re-glued the roll cage.  Maybe tomorrow the body and chassis will be joined.

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That's looking great, John... as a result of your inspiration, I've discovered my Monte version is missing its decals, and hence acquired some "Tour de Corse" alternative for a funky red and blue one covered in Renault badges...

 

All the best,

M.

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23 hours ago, johnlambert said:

Thanks for the advice.  What did you use to burnish the metal transfers?

Just a cocktail stick, but side on so you're burnishing with the side of the point rather than the pointy end bit. I think the key is to peel the backing paper off very, very slowly (if you have a magnifying headset even better) and at the first sign of the transfer lifting start burnishing again. I can fully understand why you find it frustrating, especially if you did have it lift right off, but it does give great results when it goes right.

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The Alpine is finally looking like a car (if that makes sense).  Body and chassis are united, glass is in and starting to add details like lights and bumpers.

 

The body is quite a tight fit and it feels like it's going to break as you ease the parts together, but it feels quite sturdy once it is together.

 

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The Alpine Renault script turned out OK on the engine cover.

 

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The badges on the front wing were the one metal transfer that went on properly.

 

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Getting the headlamps on will make a big difference to the look.

 

I've discovered that there are a few bits that still need painting before they can go on, but it isn't going to take too much longer.

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A little more progress. Headlamps in place.

 

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Some surgery was necessary to get the inner lamps to fit.

 

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All the lights have a locating pin to get the lamp bodies the right way up, and some plastic attachment points that need trimming flat.  In retrospect I'd recommend getting the lights to fit before painting and gluing them to the body before attaching it to the chassis, even though the instructions indicate otherwise.

 

I opened up the holes a little with a drill bit turned by hand.

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The windscreen wiper holes also need opening out a little.

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I do love the Alpine John, and yours looks as though it'll be a good one.

I built the old Bandai kit about 10 years ago complete with lots of opening bits.  It's still hanging in there, despite regular attention from my grandkids!

 

Cheers

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Most of the lights are now attached.  There really isn't much left to do.  Here's a quick "walkaround".

 

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The silver is to go behind the clear orange indicator lenses.  I was worried that the overriders don't sit flush to the body, but pictures of real Alpine A110s with the same style bumpers (there are a few variants that I've seen) the bumpers are slightly off from the bodywork.

 

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I need to see if I can tweak the fit of the engine cover at all.

 

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The tail lamps look wonky but they both seem to be fitted correctly in the mounting holesand no gaps where they sit on to the body.  The holes needed a little opening up to remove paint.  I think I had to drill out the end of the exhaust, if I did then I'm glad.

 

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Headlamp covers (like all the clear parts) are glued with PVA.  I found Blutac was ideal for holding the headlamp cover to place it on the body, much easier than trying to use tweezers or fingers.

 

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8 minutes ago, MR2Don said:

Matt black eyebrows on the headlight covers? Real A110 look, started with the competition ones, presumably cut down reflection.

Yes, those are supplied as decals, which I need to apply.

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Moving this slowly towards completion.

 

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Front number plate and fog light covers had been painted with a rather creamy white enamel when I first started this kit.  I wasn't happy with the finish so they were cleaned up in a bowl of Detol.

 

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Spot lamp covers and number plates all given a spray of Tamiya X2 white as indicated in the instructions.  The front number plate surround needs a coat of satin black, so I'll have to mask it up once the paint has dried.

 

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I've added the wing mirror and indicator lenses plus the decals for the 'eyebrows' over the head lamps.

 

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I'm not looking forward to trying to get the decals in the Renault badges on the front and back, or the badges on the front wings.

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11 hours ago, johnlambert said:

I'm not looking forward to trying to get the decals in the Renault badges on the front and back, or the badges on the front wings.

Hmm, just looked at the decal sheet for mine and I see what you mean! Hard enough, but getting the "1600" and "SC" lined up on the chrome feels like a nightmare.

Bon chance, mon ami!🤞

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3 hours ago, MR2Don said:

Hmm, just looked at the decal sheet for mine and I see what you mean! Hard enough, but getting the "1600" and "SC" lined up on the chrome feels like a nightmare.

Bon chance, mon ami!🤞

Merci beaucoup.  The one saving grace is that the decals are so small I hope it won't be too obvious if I can't get them on.

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The Alpine is inching slowly towards completion.  Tonight has been a source of eye strain as I dealt with decals only a few millimetres in size.  Thankfully none were lost or damaged, so I'm going to count that as a win.  It seems that MicroSet (which I'd like to try) is pretty much unobtainable at the moment so all my decal work is with plain water; Tamiya's instruction to immerse the decals for ten seconds is somewhat short of what I found necessary.

 

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The covers for the spot/driving lamps look pretty good, some touching up with white paint will be necessary once they are cut from the sprue but it shouldn't be too bad.  I'm not sure about the white surround for the number plate but it's what the instructions advise.

 

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The front number plate plinth needs to be satin black, so I'll try and find some other bits from another build that need spraying at the same time.  Then it will get its decal and go on the front of the car.

 

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Even at a distance you can tell that the badge detail is now present on the front wings.  I'm glad it's there as the plain silver rectangles didn't look very pleasing.

 

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Close-up it's quite impressive how well the badges look.

 

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Renault badge on the nose, it's a pity I lost the A L P I N E script but I can live with it.

 

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Renault badge on the back and also touched up some missing black paint on the silencer.  I can't wait to attach the number plate and finish the back end.

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