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F.A.A. Corsair Mk.II AKA The Phoenix rises !


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Hey @wimbledon99 ... I have two A/brushes but In this case the Iwata Neo. I tend to only use the Iwata HP-BCS for large jobs like when i sprayed all the aluminum. It only has a two oz jar and the Neo has two smaller paint cups. 

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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4 hours ago, wimbledon99 said:

Nice!! Just goes to show you don't have to spend a fortune to get a brilliant finish :worthy:

And then there was one....

 

 

 

Yes sadly its all gone now ... dNPYPRZ.jpg

 

wFEtnT3.jpg

 

cmGiV2B.jpg

In these two photos ↕️ you can see where i was holding it started to get affected and the paint along the port side spine actually slipped down ? Almost as if it was oozing. 

sHr6Iox.jpgSomehow there was a reaction to something. I am thinking the Gunze olive drab didn't like the hairspray ? The under coats of aluminum & future started to react and bubble. It then started getting a consistency of snot. The more i tried to fix it the more it worsened so i eventually stripped the worst of it on the rear and cleaned it all off. The plastic underneath actually got very soft, so i will let it sit for a few days or even a week. Then I will check and see if its recoverable. If not the Boyington build is going good so far. I might be able to buy a Tamiya kit in July to replace this build if it isn't salvageable. Please feel free to ask questions, post comments, and or add thoughts. 

 

Dennis

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Just now, Cookenbacher said:

Wow, I wonder what could have happened Dennis?

That's a real bummer, keep us updated on how it is after sitting for a bit.

Dont know... Never had it happen before ? I used Hataka lacquer on the Boyington build. This is Gunze lacquer both using Tamiya tan cap lacquer thinner ? Both over the same exact undercoat ? Only thing I can think is the Gunze was either too hot or it reacted to the hairspray ? 

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I've had a similar problem in the past Dennis and put it down to some lingering solvent residues within the the pores of my fingers (it happened shortly after I'd been cleaning my airbrush).

When I remember to do it, my painting routine now involves both wearing a face mask and frequent hand washing. 

 

Come to think of it, this sounds like a great "Coronavirus health benefit" excuse for spending more time modelling ;).

 

Cheers

 

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Hi Dennis,

 

You said the magic word lacquer - I suspect you're facing the same painting problem that affected manufacturers of the real aircraft.  Lacquer will etch the surface beneath it (which is why it works so well on plastics) but doesn't play well with other types of paint.  You can spray lacquer over lacquer, but not over dope or enamel.  You can spray dope over dope, but not over lacquer or enamel.  You can spray enamel over anything you want.  (In modeling terms, water-based paints can be treated like enamels -- they'll spray over anything without damaging the underlying surface, but you can't overspray them with lacquers.)  It appears your lacquers attacked your hairspray and (perhaps) your basecoat.

 

When Goodyear took over Lend-Lease Corsair production for Britain, several Briggs outer wing panels arrived camouflage in enamels to match the FAA patterns and colors.  By this time Goodyear was painting all of its FGs Glossy Sea Blue.  The company received BuAer's permission to overspray the enamels with GSB lacquers - within months the enamels, the underlying doped basecoats, and the fabric portions of the wings themselves were all failing.  Oops.

 

Light sandpaper should clean away your problem.  I too like spraying lacquers (no better finish in the world) and have had some luck using the old Magic Mask for simulated chipping.  Any rubber cement might work just as well for you, but give your choice a test before working on your model.  I like what you've done so far - despite a setback, it doesn't look like your efforts have been ruined.

 

Cheers,

 

 

Dana

Edited by Dana Bell
correct typo
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10 hours ago, CliffB said:

I've had a similar problem in the past Dennis and put it down to some lingering solvent residues within the the pores of my fingers (it happened shortly after I'd been cleaning my airbrush).

When I remember to do it, my painting routine now involves both wearing a face mask and frequent hand washing. 

 

Come to think of it, this sounds like a great "Coronavirus health benefit" excuse for spending more time modelling ;).

 

Cheers

 

 

10 hours ago, modelling minion said:

I am very sorry to hear of your paint issues Dennis.

I've never had this happen to me, but I have never tried the hairspray technique so don't know if this is a potential problem with using it.

I hope that you are able to sort it soon.

 

4 hours ago, Dana Bell said:

You said the magic word lacquer - I suspect you're facing the same painting problem that affected manufacturers of the real aircraft.  Lacquer will etch the surface beneath it (which is why it works so well on plastics) but doesn't play well with other types of paint.  You can spray lacquer over lacquer, but not over dope or enamel.  You can spray dope over dope, but not over lacquer or enamel.  You can spray enamel over anything you want.  (In modeling terms, water-based paints can be treated like enamels -- they'll spray over anything without damaging the underlying surface, but you can't overspray them with lacquers.)  It appears your lacquers attacked your hairspray and (perhaps) your basecoat.

Thanks everyone ... That's the strange thing Dana two corsairs both painted identically up to the hairspray. Both used lacquers on top of the hairspray as well, difference is manufacturers ? The Boyington corsair used Hataka Lacquers and had zero issues. This one used Gunze lacquer and had issues. Both paints were thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner one worked the other melted. So its definitely in the gunze lacquer but then only in certain areas of that plane. The spine and wing spots are related to my fingers being covered in thinner I'm sure as they're are clearly round in shape. But the flat tailplanes just bubbling was what got me. Well theyre (tail stabs) are stripped and will be washed again with water before i attempt anything on them. Then i will spray straight green on top and straight sky under directly on to plastic. That might fix this if not it goes into the breaking yard for spare parts. 
 

Dennis

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       Morning everyone... So I think I may have solved the paint issues. I decided after doing some touch ups on a couple other builds to give this another go ? It started out ok then the problem reared its ugly head again. So this time I took photo’s to show you what happened. UbBvp39.jpg
 

xyMTwvr.jpg

This is exactly what happened last time except there is no undercoat now ? It got all bubbly and gritty. The paint Gunze with Tamiya tan cap lacquer thinner, mixed in a 3-1 ratio. 

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It turns out that my Airbrush died, I cleaned it twice and now I can only get air out of it. Absolutely no paint, water, thinner or anything liquid will flow out ? Its an Iwata Neo with a .35 needle/nozzle, Ive replaced the needle twice and the nozzle once in the last 6 months. For $49 I can just get a new one, I'm not fixing this again. Not to bad 16 months and 50+ models with it so I guess I got my moneys worth out of it. By the way I took 2000 grit and wet sanded all the gritty areas, they're smooth now and the weathering is starting. I still need to fix the sky though. So I can live with this, next up is the grey. Please feel free to ask questions, post comments, and or add thoughts. 

 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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6 hours ago, modelling minion said:

Very sorry to see that your paint issues are persisting Dennis, especially that paint won't flow through your airbrush.

I've never had problems with Gunze and find the issues you're having unusual.

Me too before I took my Hiatus from modeling I used Gunze exclusively. Ive just found a source that will sell them again in Illinois and have only begun to build up my stocks. 

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35 minutes ago, 85sqn said:

Looking tasty Dennis!

Thanks ... All the touch-ups are done now. The clear is on and the decals go on over the next few days. 
2iLAqSF.jpg

 

J1CAOfW.jpg

 

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PsHYkdN.jpg

Please feel free to ask questions, post comments, and or add thoughts. 

 

Dennis

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2 minutes ago, John Laidlaw said:

That's looking great, Dennis! I love it when the colour goes on, and that's looking spot-on.

Gunze Army olive drab and Tamiya XF-53 Neutral grey. The grey was too light by itself so I mixed it with Tamiya Flat black in a 5 N/G - 1 black ratio. I think the colors are pretty close from the few color photo’s Ive seen. 

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