Plymouth GTX Hardtop 1969 AMT ERTL 1:25

[Fnick]

That's looking really good!

 

Nick

[Spiny]

23 hours ago, johnlambert said:

Sorry if this is a bit tedious and repetitive, more masking and liquid chrome from a pen.

 

The Tamiya 2mm masking tape is quite good at following curves but you do have to watch that it doesn't try and straighten out, you can see where I've secured one end with conventional masking tape.  I'm not looking forward to doing the complex curves around the back window, or trying to pick out the "Plymouth" and "GTX" insignia.

Not something I've tried myself (but it is my plan for when I get some badges needing chroming), but could you get some chrome from the pen on the end of a cocktail stick and pick the emblems out that way? Hopefully that will give you a bit more control than the 1mm pen, although not sure how good the result will be (as I say, it's a currently untested method for me).

[johnlambert]

19 minutes ago, Spiny said:

Not something I've tried myself (but it is my plan for when I get some badges needing chroming), but could you get some chrome from the pen on the end of a cocktail stick and pick the emblems out that way? Hopefully that will give you a bit more control than the 1mm pen, although not sure how good the result will be (as I say, it's a currently untested method for me).

That sounds like a good plan, I'll give it a go.  If it's a disaster you'll know to try something else (or be more careful than I was).

 

A little more progress tonight:

 

Masking tape off most of the chrome on the passenger side.  It's looking pretty neat.  The side marker lights (a Federal requirement on all new cars sold in the USA from 1968 as I recall) will need filling in with clear paint.

[johnlambert]

Cruel close-up but some Molotow chrome applied carefully with the tip of a cocktail stick.  It seems to have turned out quite well.

[johnlambert]

Slowly continuing to move this one forward, a little more chrome work.

 

#

Boot badge picked out with chrome paint applied with a cocktail stick.

 

Driver's side rain gutter and window frame.

[Spiny]

Glad to see that the cocktail stick worked - good job on that GTX badge particularly. I like this idea of having a guinea pig - must think of some more dodgy methods

 

[johnlambert]

Slowly continuing with the chrome on the Plymouth.

[johnlambert]

One of many mistakes I made with this build was to paint the black bonnet stripes before clear coating.  As a result they are too glossy.

 

I could just go over it with some matt or satin clearcoat but I'm not happy with the black on the leading edge of the bonnet.  I have masked up and I'll give it a light rub to key the surface and go over it with some satin black paint again.

 

I hope the rest of my masking is adequate.

[Spiny]

Is your masking tape holding ok? I've noticed that some of the tape on the SSR interior is starting to lift with this heat/humidity which is going to be a pain for the rest of the layers. It would definitely be worth double checking before spraying.

[johnlambert]

@Spiny Funnily enough I did spot that a piece of tape had lifted, I re-seated it and put some more on top before waving the spray can about.

 

Doesn't look too bad, we'll see what the damage is ehen the tape comes off.  I really wish that back in the day Plymouth had kept the black paint to the bonnet rather than having it on the wings and scuttle too.

 

 

[Pouln]

12 hours ago, johnlambert said:

Plymouth had kept the black paint to the bonnet rather than having it on the wings and scuttle too.

Ah ja, they didn’t have modellers such as you in mind when they decided this.

[johnlambert]

It looks like this was a success.

 

Nice finish on the bonnet, maybe the masking didn't quite align perfectly but it's good enough and the masking tape didn't even lift the chrome.  Molotow chrome is quite durable in my experience, as long as it'd left alone to fully dry.

 

Close up of the bonnet, looks like there's a bit of a feathered edge near the base of the windscreen, I think we can put that down to Mopar quality control maybe, plus the chrome windscreen surround should draw the eye away from it.

 

GTX logo coloured in.

 

The tricky part of the rear window surround, done.  Fingers grossed that I've got the masking tape pressed down securely; I did gently but firmly burnish it down with the tip of a pair of tweezers.

[busnproplinerfan]

The soft edge looked bad on the cowl but looking at the other pictures it's quite close to the trim and should be camoflaugable. Maybe do a light was in the grill, It'll detract further.

[Spiny]

22 hours ago, johnlambert said:

 

Close up of the bonnet, looks like there's a bit of a feathered edge near the base of the windscreen, I think we can put that down to Mopar quality control maybe, plus the chrome windscreen surround should draw the eye away from it.

 

I could be wrong, but it looks as though there's some wipers in there which need some detail painting too. I reckon if you chrome those and the windscreen surround which you mentioned that fuzzy bit of black will become something that's only visible when pointed out.

[johnlambert]

@Spiny Yes, there are some moulded in wipers (if I had my time over again I'd carve them off and get some etched replacements or something). I agree, when the chrome is done on the wipers and windscreen frame it should look OK.

[johnlambert]

A little more shiny stuff.

 

Rear screen trim not looking too bad.

 

Made a start on the windscreen trim and wipers.

 

I know it's only inching along but at least it is progress.

[johnlambert]

This one is nearing completion too, believe it or not.

 

Chrome trim is done, maybe not perfect but not too bad.

 

Windscreen and wipers.  I might try a wash on the grille in the scuttle.

 

Back window trim.

 

I need to get the glass in (probably paint the inside of the roof first, just to make it look a bit more like headlining.  There are also some red pinstripe decals to go on the black lower part of the body.

 

I also need to assemble the chassis, but it's pretty much all ready for assembly.

[johnlambert]

A little more progress on this one.

 

I'm going to hide the over spray with a brushed coat of Tamiya Sky Grey.

 

It;s probably not going to be that visible so I'm not too worried about brush marks and ejector pins.  I'll fix the front and rear screens in place next but I'm tempted to leave out the side glass so the interior is more easily viewed (I'm quite proud of the interior).

 

I've also decided to start gluing the underside together.  It's a real pig to assemble as there's very little to provide positive location, the slip of paper is to help support the primary pipes until the glue dries.  There are a few more pipes and cables to add as well.

[CliffB]

It's nice to see this one getting close to completion John. 

It's reminding me a bit, of a Mk.3 Cortina that my dad used to have in a similar colour.  Not quite the same engine though!

 

Cheers

[johnlambert]

Thanks @CliffB the paint is a Ford colour, so it could be the same one as your dad's Cortina. I think General Motors was the first company to adopt the "Coke bottle" style where the line from the front to the rear wings (or fenders) bulged up over the rear wheels. It was eventually adopted by all three major American manufacturers and their European subsidiaries; look at the Vauxhall FD Victor of 1967 and the Mk3 Ford Cortina of 1970.

[CliffB]

Thanks John.  The 'coke bottle' style still looks good to me . 

I believe that my dad's Cortina was Tawny Brown.

 

Cheers

[Andy J]

Your doing a fine job with this one John very nice indeed 👍 

[johnlambert]

I'm pleased to be maintaining the momentum on this build now the end is in sight.

 

Glazing, I quite like the fact that the front, rear and side windows are separate pieces.

 

There's a little flash to clean from the front screen.

 

The rear screen needed a lot of trimming and cleaning.  A perfectionist might rub down and polish the "glass" with abrasives but I'm too cautious for that.

 

It was a bit tricky cutting the glass away without causing damage.

 

Glued in with PVA and temporarily held down with tape.  As an aside, the kit includes a rear-view mirror but there isn't anywhere obvious to attach it, nor is it mentioned in the instructions.

 

Prop-shaft and back axle glued into place; a little touching in will be necessary.  The universal joints have been painted metallic grey (this seemed to fit with reference photos I found) and I gave the prop-shaft a bit of a dry brushing of metallic grey too.  I think I even dry brushed the rear springs when I first started this build.  I also need to add the rear dampers but they are currently waiting for the paint to dry as there was a big patch of bare plastic exposed when they were cut from the sprue.

[Andy J]

Hi John, dry brushing is a great idea for adding details but keep it subtle less is more if you know what i mean 😉

[johnlambert]

One more on this tonight.

 

Installing the radiator and top hose; this is another tricky part as again there's not much to give positive location.  If I ever do another of these (and I would quite like to despite some of the difficulties) I'd probably wire up the engine.