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Matilda Mk.III Filibuster Tamiya 1/35

diablo rsv
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diablo rsv Obsessed Member

diablo rsv

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15 hours ago, f matthews said:

Fantastic work.  I, for one, am glad the Tamiya decals got botched-these markings look far better.  Nice job!

 

 

11 hours ago, M3talpig said:

Beautiful everything about this screams quality from the paint choice to the markings, truly a lovely build :goodjob:

Thank you both very much! I must admit I'm really quite pleased with the way this one turned out.

I do wish kit manufactures would include the photos that they are using for a reference. I think Tamiya got this one quite wrong which can be frustrating when you have got so far into the build.

 

Regards

Wayne

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diablo rsv Obsessed Member

diablo rsv

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On 31/05/2020 at 18:04, Nenad Ilijic said:

Hi Wayne, this is absolutely fantastic! True masterpiece.

 

Best,

Nenad

 

20 hours ago, President Trff said:

Hi Wayne,

 

That really is a cracker, despite the Tamiya decals!  Look forward to seeing the A10 & A9

 

John

Thanks Nenad! 

I must say I'm pretty pleased with the way this one tuned out, not sure that it qualifies as a masterpiece but I'll take it.😉

Thanks John.

The A9 is finished John but yet again I'm not overly happy with the way the link and length tracks turned out and the thought of spending £30 on Master Club or Friul's is upsetting me.

 

Cheers

Wayne

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diablo rsv Obsessed Member

diablo rsv

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On 02/06/2020 at 22:58, IanC said:

Absolutely stunning. The paintwork and weathering is first class. And very convincing stowage too!

 

 

23 hours ago, The_Lancaster said:

Fantastic build! It's nice to see a Matilda in a temperate camouflage, and excellent weathering to accompany it too

Thank you both very much!

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  • 4 months later...
witjas4 New Member

witjas4

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Really great job!

In my opinion this is the best Matilda Tank model on this forum, so far.

What model kit you have used as a base for the model ?

 

Cheers

Witold

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APA Very Obsessed Member

APA

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Ooooh! I love this. I often think that the Matilda II is looked on as a 'Simple' tank where as you have shown so many more details that elevate it as it should be. Like a few have said the wiring is excellent and scratch built smoke dispensers are brilliant. It's those sort of things that make a model for me. Weathering is a wonderful mix of dirt and oil. You can smell the grease and grime just looking at it. Absolutely brilliant!! 👍👏👊

 

A

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Terry1954 Completely Obsessed Member

Terry1954

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Fantastic looking Matilda, really stunning and ultra realistic. I have to agree with you re the MRP paints. I've only recently starting using them and find them superb.

 

Thanks for sharing

 

Terry

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diablo rsv Obsessed Member

diablo rsv

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On 25/11/2020 at 00:21, gmoss said:

Probably the best Matilda I've seen.  Well done Wayne.

 

22 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

Fantastic looking Matilda, really stunning and ultra realistic. I have to agree with you re the MRP paints. I've only recently starting using them and find them superb.

 

Thanks for sharing

 

Terry

Thanks Terry and Greg, that's very kind of you. I really appreciate your comments.

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Stu123 Newbie

Stu123

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Fantastic model Wayne.  The weathering looks absolutely spot on.

 

On the subject of weathering I’m hoping I can pick your and other members brains please.  I’m a returnee to the hobby after a 30 year break and for the past couple of years (yes I know, the blessing of a young family and busy job) I’ve been working on a Panther diorama. I’m nearing the end of the Panther itself, but would really appreciate your advice on the final steps.  Sorry no photos, I’ve not sorted out a photobox account yet…

 

I’ve just completed Mig/AK enamel washes over the Panther, having previously given it a coat of Pledge to seal in the Vallejo acrylic base coast and decals.  To complete the model I want to give it a very light dusting over with chalk pastels. However, I’ve invested so many hours in this model that I’m now apprehensive of doing something wrong at this late stage, and would really appreciate your advice as to the next steps.  I’ll be using Testors Dullcote  with Mr Color Levelling thinner to matt the model down but should I apply another coat of Pledge beforehand in order to stop the Dullcoat/thinner interacting with the enamel wash?  And at what stage would you recommend the chalk pastel dusting – I assume the final step in order to avoid the two spray coats blowing the chalk away or making it run ?

 

Therefore, I’m thinking – 1: Pledge. 2: Dullcoat/thinner. 3: Pastel dust.  Would you agree with that?

 

Sorry to have crashed your thread but I couldn’t seem to find a better place on the site to ask.

 

Best regards, Stuart

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diablo rsv Obsessed Member

diablo rsv

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7 hours ago, Stu123 said:

On the subject of weathering I’m hoping I can pick your and other members brains please

 

Hi Stuart, thank you very much.

As regards to your build, it's a little difficult for me to give a definitive answerer on how to proceed as you are taking a bit of a different route and are using different materials to me. However I do use MLT ( Mr Color Levelling thinner)  and I haven't had a reaction with underlaying acrylic or enamel layers. I wouldn't however apply any heavy coats with it and I would test it out on the underside of the model just to be sure though.

I do add most of the weathering powders and pastels at the end and they will get better adhesion to a flat surface. 

You are not the only one to get apprehensive about the weathering stages. I think most of us worry about messing up our hard work. I some times use an old model as a test mule or an area of the model that won't be seen such as the bottom or behind bazooka plates if I'm unsure about a process, . As with most things in model making it's a case of practising with different techniques and materials.

I know that a lot of modellers like to use different clear coats to protect various stages of the painting and weathering but personally I try to avoid doing that. I try where possible to use MRP paints and these give an nice smooth satin finish which I find perfect for applying pin washes and oils for streaks or oil dot rendering, which is a process of using oil paint to very tones, hues and sheens of the paint. I also try as much as possible to have varying sheens on different surfaces so applying clear coats all over the model would prevent that. So if I do add a flat or satin clear coat it would be after the final colour coat but before any filters, oils etc.

There are some excellent Work in Progress builds on the forum to give you some different ideas. There is also a Panther group build ongoing with some outstanding work on it that would be worth taking a look at HERE.

I hope this helps, and feel free to ask anytime. 

 

Wayne.

 

 

   

  

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