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I have had this kit sitting beside on the workbench as I built the 1933 Blue Bird recently. I will admit that the Thrust2 never really struck with me like so many other LSR-cars, probably as it looks a bit like some blob with a nose, and I didn't follow the record attempts as close as with the later Thrust SSC. When FPPM released the kit it first took a while for me and then I bought it to some extent because I must support more LSR kits to be released in 1/24 scale. And I just heard the other day that I will apparently not be disappointed...




For the last few weeks the body has been sitting on top of its box with the two fins loosely attached to it, just to keep it in the back of my mind. It may have worked as I have also been reading up a little on the project, checking photos and videos. 1047 km/h in top speed and a record of 1020 km/h in 1983 demands a lot of respect, even if it wasn't that much above the Blue Flame record of 1970. The kit deserves the full attention of being built now.


Here we have all the parts and the decal sheet as large as the box. There is a good amount of resin in there; the thing is 33 cm long and 10 cm wide. My kit was missing the exhaust part of the engine and the left rear suspension had a detail missing, but no problem, FPPM quickly sent the parts. Perfect service.




When I got the kit I found two decal sheets in it and thought that perhaps some decals were repeated, but now I see that is not the case, a sheet should cover the whole car. Not only that though, today I see there are actually three sheets in there... I will have to contact Pinto about that in case it is a mistake, as the decals would be expensive and are probably what limits the number of kits he can make.


I believe these coloured roundels are provided as painting instructions for the brake parachutes. Nice detail.




It will never win any beauty prices with me, but it was seriously fast...




That engine part is 65 mm deep. I'm not sure how to paint the inside; I doubt that spraying will work well. But it will take some time until I reach that point.




Work started with cutting some excess resin from the body and floor, filling air bubbles and doing some repairs. I suppose I will work on this beside some other projects so it may not be a very quick one.



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I remember the Thrust project and all the hype that went with it, will look forward to watching you work magic and produce another show stopper!


   Stay safe           Roger

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Jorgen you certainly are prolific building these resin gems.I love ALL LSR cars - especially Thrust SSC.

I know you will make this one as special as the rest.

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This reminds me that I have a 1/24 resin version of the Goldenrod LSR car sitting in an obscure corner on my bench. It's a bit of a chunk of resin! Maybe one day I will just start it as a diversion in the middle of the current build. I've always liked the LSR cars from the early ones to the later versions. I'll be watching yours for inspiration!

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10 hours ago, larchiefeng said:

This reminds me that I have a 1/24 resin version of the Goldenrod LSR car sitting in an obscure corner on my bench. It's a bit of a chunk of resin!

That Goldenrod resin piece can be made into something nice. Although the design is also a very efficient one in the first place, it still has a sense of beauty to it. Here is mine that I built a year ago, using only the body and air scoops from the kit.





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While finishing the 1914 Mercedes I have also been working on the body for this one in between. It has required quite a lot of work, but this morning that work was finished, including the floor and fins.








The rearmost part representing the visible section of the space frame is a separate part. I wanted a strong glue joint as it carries some of the rear suspension and also it makes the body more rigid, so I decided to glue at this early point with no paint disturbing. However, that also means I have to come up with a different method of fitting the rear suspension arms. I will look at that later.




I decided to add a few bosses inside the body to be able to screw the floor in place. The underside of the model doesn't represent anything terribly accurate, just a black plate sealing it off.




To avoid the risk of any "see through" effect I'm adding a wall where the two to side parts of the space frame detail ends. I think this will take care of the problem from all angles; otherwise I will have to add another wall behind the front of the engine.




I found the outer diameter of the rear shroud of the engine a bit too large. I thought it would be easy to just put in the lathe with some care and turn it down. Not so. When the diameter was about to get right the thin resin cracked. The rest of the detail was unharmed, so I turned it down further to make a new thinner shroud.




I found no suitable material to easily turn anything from in the lathe, so I resorted to cutting long strips of 0,25 sheet styrene and laminated a new shroud to 1 mm thickness. What first looked like a disaster was quickly back on track.




I also lowered the mounting position of the engine part about 2 mm and now I got a look at the rear end I was happy with when comparing to photos and adding the brake parachute fittings on top.






Here all the parts for the parachutes are finished. The more I study references about the real car while preparing the parts, the more interesting the project gets.




The front parts of the engine after an hour of work cleaning up and using a little filler.




They fit something like this in the body. Hopefully with all inside surfaces painted black it will be good enough.




Now I need to scratch build a little. There should be some sort of conduit, or whatever it is, between the periphery of the bodywork and the centre cone. There might have been something to represent it on the forward six winged part, the instruction sheet hints at that, but if so it was broken off on my part, and I would most likely have rebuilt it anyway.




The engine in the car is a Rolls Royce Avon RB 146 Mk 302, apparently the upper engine from an English Electric Lightning. I might have to do some reading on the engine subject, my knowledge is a bit limited there.

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I think that the conduit is either an oil feed pipe to the front bearing housing (inside the bullet), or part of the oil scavenging system for the same bearing.


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A very exciting mechanical device.

BAE Lightning's had a deafening sound - please be sure to replicate that...:devil:

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16 hours ago, klubman01 said:

I think that the conduit is either an oil feed pipe to the front bearing housing (inside the bullet), or part of the oil scavenging system for the same bearing.

Thanks, that does sound like a very plausible explanation.


This morning I scratched the thing from some Evergreen rod and stock material that I shaped to look a bit like the photos, and added a piece of photo etched flange. When it was all done and test fitted to satisfaction I found the broken off piece from the kit part. But I like my new piece much better so it was all OK.




The thing fits something like this.






Work started on the cockpit. A bit of work and filler is needed to get a good fit inside the body. The seats come with very simple safety belts moulded in, but since these will be reasonably visible through the windows I will remove them and use something else. Possibly this set from Modeler's.




I added some instrument details according to a photo of the real cockpit. The decal sheet is well cared for in providing all instruments and also other labels for the cockpit, so I think it will look good in the end.




That's some passenger seat to ride in...



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The little fin antenna was sanded to a better shape and got a thin metal locating pin.




Here are the four parts representing the four lifting lugs and the tow hook. I'm not exactly sure which is which and one is missing. These could be cleaned up and rescued and one easily made from scratch, but I put them aside.




Instead I drew them up in AutoCAD and decided to try the new Silhouette Cameo 4 cutter on 0,25 sheet styrene. I don't think such hard material is what it's meant for, and I found no suitable setting in the software, so I experimented. It got better as I tried manipulated settings, but nothing was cut perfectly through. Either it's too much for the machine or I'm lost in the settings, but I lost interest for the moment and wanted to move on.




The last attempts were almost cut through and separated, you could see the marks protruding on the backside, so I sanded the surface lightly and then the pieces broke free quite easily.




After some added fine sanding I had 4 + 1 passable parts.




The tow hook fits in the nose.




And the four lifting lugs go on top of the body.






Before I start on the rear suspension, that will require a good deal of work, I thought I'd get rid of the front wheels. One is riddled with fine air bubbles and some larger ones. But as very little of the front wheels are visible I think I can fill the worst and sand, spray with primer and pick in the rest with thick primer, before sanding again and painting. Then I can hopefully find an orientation to fit the wheels in that will be free from visible faults. Time will tell.



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Thanks for posting a pictures of your Goldenrod it looks great! Without a lot of extra detail I can see what a stunning kit it can be built into. The paint and decals really bring it alive! Can't wait to see what you do with this one!

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Nice progress on this one with your usual attention to detail.


 Stay safe            Roger

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Front wheels ready for primer. I think also the offender will pass with some added primer treatment.




Some material had to be ground off inside the body to make room on top of the wheels. It's now very thin there, much like it would be for real, but it works.




A ride height test. Not much will be seen of those wheels.




The vacform for the windscreens looked like a chance for some trouble as it was a bit yellowed already. But before asking for a replacement I thought I'd give it a go. It turned out to be very brittle and was prone to develop cracks as I cut, so I had to be really careful. I managed to cut them 95% OK with really great care, but then the fit wasn't all perfect.




What alternatives where available? I always try to save anything that looks even very remotely useful for some modelling purpose, including all sorts of clear plastic packaging. I have never ever bought something microphone related like what that sticker implies, but still it was present in one of those bags of good to have shaped window material, I have no idea where it came from, but it was a scary good match in curvature around the edges...




Sure enough, before too long it had given me two very well fitting clear windscreens. With some care I should be able to glue these flush after painting.




The thin rear wheels were quite OK, a little filler needed on one of them.




The rear suspension arms needed more care. It's hard to see here, but quite a lot of cleaning and filling was needed. I also needed to get something done about their mounting, as I could no longer fit them with the moulded in metal axle present. This is due to me having already glued the centre mounting point to body. I gave it a try and pulled the first moulded in axle with a pair of pliers, I had nothing to lose anyway, and as luck would have it, it came out nicely, leaving a long through hole, that I could ream out with a 2,1 mm drill. Repeat once more and I then cut two new 2 mm steel axles, that I could push in from the side.




First trial fit of the rear suspension.  I will always find the rear end weird on this one. Functional, perhaps, but it looks odd with everything hanging in the open dragged behind the body...




More work needed. There are two shock absorbers on each side, but their mounting points don't line up between the body and suspension arms. I need to move the outer ones on the body in, and the inner ones on the suspension arms out.



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