Conversion Airfix 1/48 Vb to Vc - RAAF BS219 ZP-X ***FINISHED***

[Ray_W]

With my RAAF Mk VIII A58-303 waiting for serial numbers (due tomorrow) and the RAAF 451 Squadron Mk XIV at the painting stage, I decided to take on another RAAF subject.  This time to convert the Airfix 1/48 Vb to a Vc standard and use the DK decal sheet. The chosen subject is an early Australian Vc BS219 (Australian serial A58-84) the top one on the decal sheet. 

 

 

 

A number of things influenced this decision besides the general enthusiasm for anything Spitfire:

 

1. I have had a RAAF Vc on the modelling bucket list for some time

 

2. There is good information on this aircraft and an excellent description by Peter Malone @Magpie22 in his Aeroscale decal sheet review on Hyperscale http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/raafvcpm_1.htm, I have to see if Peter has done a review of the DK sheet. He immediately answered a question in my head - did the RAAF Vc have the IFF fitted? The answer is no. I have to even drill out the fuselage insulator.

 

3. I like the Jiminy Cricket motif. 

 

 

 

By the way, if you prefer the bottom right motif there is good info on this aircraft being the recovered and restored wreck A58-146 EE853. The following article is interesting reading http://www.saam.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/SAAM-Profiles-RECOVERY-OF-SPITFIRE-UP-O.pdf

 

and finally, 

 

4. This aircraft may of had the early Vc wide cannon blisters. Not being the Spitfire expert, I am now checking whether this means that I can use the cannon blister position size and location on the Airfix Vb wing. This will be one less correction. Please respond if you know the answer. Maybe @Troy Smith can chime in. (EDIT: answered my own question - I will need to make a wide cannon blister.).You can see I am already using my Mk XIV build to make a narrow blister mould in anticipation of this modification. I know the XIV has the outboard cannon and very slightly larger blister, rear mounted, but it will be good basis for the Vb to Vc mod if the narrow blister is needed.

 

 

Here's the decal sheet, it shows the squadron codes "ZP" in DK's interpretation of RAAF Sky Blue and the aircraft "X" in white. I need to check references if this is correct. Also DK has the underside in Azure Blue as opposed to RAAF Sky Blue, possibly correct for an early Aussie Vc.

 

 

I have ordered the Airfix kit which should arrive with good timing on completion of the Mk XIV. I'll then post the obligatory sprue shots. In the mean time, the fun part, more desk top research on this particular aircraft. Any input is welcome.

 

Another Spitfire, surely the last for a while. I'll have 4 to get home to Australia in hand carry.

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Im going to follow and take notes,🗒✍🏻 as Id love to do the same conversion for both an RAAF plane but also to finally use my Airwaves Mk.XII Conversion set and build my Mk.XII. Thats only my favorite Mk. of Spitfire. 

Dennis

[Ray_W]

22 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Im going to follow and take notes,🗒✍🏻 as Id love to do the same conversion for both an RAAF plane but also to finally use my Airwaves Mk.XII Conversion set and build my Mk.XII. Thats only my favorite Mk. of Spitfire. 

Dennis

Hi Dennis,

 

This conversion does not seem too complicated and being the Airfix kit it  should come up quite nice.

 

I too have fondness for doing a Mk XII. I like the shape right and some fidelity in the kit so do not like the Airfix XII (wing shape, I dislike more so than the not too difficult fuselage correction needed) and Special Hobby (wing position and fuselage length not too difficult to fix). I think if I was to do it I would prefer to use one of the Eduard 1/48 spitfires and build a new nose. I would need to study just how different that nose is to later Griffon spits other than the obvious magneto bulge and extended nose. If I could use an aftermarket say Mk XIV top cowl suitably modded I would be in business.  This would be, for me, a very interesting project.

 

Ray

 

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

I agree it would be an interesting conversion, if you choose to do one someday Id like to follow that build as well. 

[Magpie22]

Hi Ray,

 

First a correction to that article you quoted. My comment,"IFF wires were removed from most RAAF Spitfires. They were not on any of the Spitfires depicted in these sheets" is incoreect. They were removed later in the war from most RAAF Spitfires, but were fitted to aircraft that saw service in the Darwin area.    Those IFF wires were on BS219!!

 

I don't have the DK decal sheet, but they appear to have gotten the colour scheme for BS219 correct. It was a Supermarine built A/C, originally finished in the DFS, repainted in the desert scheme before being shipped to to Australia, and repainted yet again by the RAAF, overpainting the Middle Stone in Foliage Green. Its camouflage then was RAF Dark Earth and RAAF Foliage Green on the upper surfaces with RAF Azure Blue on the undersurfaces. When the squadron was re-equipping at Camden, most of the 'B' Flight aircraft and some of the 'A' Flight aircraft aquired RAAF Sky Blue spinners and RAAF Sky Blue bands around the rear fuselage. Perhaps this was trying to emulate the Sky spinners ind fuelage bands that were on the Spitfire VB aircraft that the squadron flew in the UK, or perhaps it was a way of trying to distinguish themsleves from the other squadrons in the wing. The colours of the emblem is a matter of interpretaion, (you are on your own there!), but the pointing finger is a little dissappointing. Jiminy is 'giving the finger', not pointing.

 

The 'owner' of BS219 was Flight Sergeant Rex Wyndham Watson. He was one of the oldest fighter pilots in the RAAF, having been born in the UK in 1909. Twenty years later he emmigrated to Australia. When he wanted to enlist in the RAAF as a pilot, he was too old at 31, but he successfully managed to convince the recruiters that he was five years younger. He also managed to conceal that he had a 'wonky' knee from a motor cycle accident and passed the medical. He joined No. 457 Sqn in the UK in 1942, flew a few ops there, and returned to Australia, with the squadron in August 1942.

 

Below are some photos that may be of use. Some you will have seen in the article you quoted, but I thought it best to bring them all together here.

 

1. Camden, late 1942.   These photos clearly show the diffence in tone between the Sky Blue of the code letter, fuselage band, and spinner, and the white of the roundel and fin flash. Note that the gun heater tubes are still fitted to the engine exhausts at this time. In the second and third photos the IFF wires from fuselage to tailplane can be seen, as can the wide cannon feed fairings.

 

 

 

 

 

2. Livingstone Strip, Feb/March 1943.    She has now acquired the 'Jiminy Cricket' emblem, but no victory markings yet. Rex claimed his first victory, in his first skirmish with the enemy, on 15 March 1943. He is second from right in the first shot and still as a Flight Sergeant in the last shot. Note that the gun heater tubes had been removed from the exhausts by this time. This proved to be an error as the air at altitude could still be quite cold, even over Darwin. In the lower two shots the original squadron code 'XB', that was applied in early March, can be seen.

 

 

 

 

 

3. Millingimbi, 10 May1943.   F/O "Bush" Hamilton often flew BS219. On 9 May, when on standby, BS219 went US and he was unable to take off when Zeros attacked the advanced base. He stayed with the aircraft and used his radio to relay messages to those airborne. Rex Watson was airborne in another aircraft and scored his second victory that day.

The IFF wire is also visible in this shot, not the white mark passing through the upper roundel - that is a mark on the print - but as the white line just visible above the 'P' of the code.

 

 

 

 

4. Livingstone, late May1943  A newly commissioned Rex Watson sits proudly, with Jiminy 'giving the finger' to the two Japanese flags. "Bush" Hamilton also cracks a big grin for the camera.

Rex gained his final victory, a half share in a 'Dinah' at 31,000 feet, on 17 August. He softened it up, but suffered cannon failure, so he puuled aside and let another pilot finish it off.

 

 

 

The two shots with "Bush' are interesting from a modelling point of view. I often see models with open cockpits and the seat belts neatly on the seat. This was rarely the case. The shoulder straps were generally passed back over the top of the armour plate so that they sat down the rear, the right strap was generally passed over the cockpit coaming, and the left strap was inside the cockpit, to the left of the seat. This was so the pilot could jump into the aircaft and, with the aid of ground crew, quickly strap in, without having to retrieve harness from between his back and buttocks, and the seat. 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

 

@Magpie22

 

What can I say Peter, absolutely fantastic information and thanks for sharing. Thanks for the correction on the IFF. As soon as I receive the Airfix Vb boxing, next week, I'll start with my conversion to Vc wide cannon blister standard.

 

I have another question for you. It is difficult to pick from the pictures. I expect the foliage green was hand sprayed over the middle stone without masking. Was this the case? I would then expect some overspray and loss of definition and shape of the Earth Brown at the edges.

 

Thanks again. Brilliant.

 

Ray 

[Magpie22]

Yes, the Foliage Green was free sprayed, using the original pattern as a template. However, I suspect that the Azure Blue area may have been masked off as there is little evidence of green overspray in that area. On a very few aircraft you can see where the Foliage Green has impinged onto the Azure Blue, but this is the exception rather than the rule. 

Peter M

[Ray_W]

The kit has arrived so there is now no reason not to start. Here's the obligatory before I start shot with my favourite tool for conversion work, a nice dainty file.

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

@Steve 1602 Steve, did you notice the black JU-H markings in this special box from Airfix. I had not noticed this when I placed the order. I just wanted the kit for the Vc  conversion. When I received it I saw the markings and thought "very tempting". I'll save them and definitely use them for a Vb boxing I have back in Australia. Maybe do a black pair later this year - Defiant and Spitfire. Ray

[SleeperService]

43 minutes ago, Ray_W said:

start shot with my favourite tool for conversion work, a nice dainty file.

Coincidentally Watched Crocodile Dundee the other evening.

As I started a similar project and messed it up badly, IIRC it's in the same crate the Me262V1 is sulking in that Magpie22 helped me with a while back) I'll be following with interest.

I didn't understand about the IFF retention until I realised where Darwin was and that the Japanese gave it a good going over.

[Troy Smith]

one point @Ray_W

as discussed here

the prop on BS219 looks to be the DH type in the Airfix kit, from this and the other photo @Magpie22 posted , looking at the blade shape as well

)

hmm, not sure. 

 

have a look at the Airifx DH prop.   I'll chekc mine if it's where I think it is....and also what Special Hobby provide. 

[Steve 1602]

Ray - yes it’s certainly a tempting scheme isn’t it? There are a couple of photos of that aircraft (link below) which give some good reference to the state of the finish

 

If you do go with a defiant/  Spit pair I’d  certainly be watching that!
 

https://imodeler.com/2016/12/tamiya-148-spitfire-mk-vb-night-fighter/

 

[Ray_W]

18 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

 

have a look at the Airifx DH prop.   I'll chekc mine if it's where I think it is....and also what Special Hobby provide. 

Troy,

 

This is what is in the box banged together with PVA.

 

 

 

[Troy Smith]

looking at the photo Ray, the DH on the right looks pretty close in spinner and blade shape,  and if anything Airfix supplied the wrong one for the Vb,  the DH unit in the Vb being like the type use on the Mk.I

Not so good for a Vb, but handy for a Vc.... 

Sorry, no definitive answer on this,  you'll need to do some eyeballing of this, which I know your good at  

[Ray_W]

37 minutes ago, SleeperService said:

Coincidentally Watched Crocodile Dundee the other evening.

As I started a similar project and messed it up badly, IIRC it's in the same crate the Me262V1 is sulking in that Magpie22 helped me with a while back) I'll be following with interest.

I didn't understand about the IFF retention until I realised where Darwin was and that the Japanese gave it a good going over.

With your post I didn't know whether to laugh or cry. I have a couple of modelling policies now. The first is no matter what I finish what I have on the bench - call it a new sport "Plastic Scrambling" and second I never start another project until the previous one is finished or is all but. Research on another subject of interest or  your next build, allowed. There is only so much you can do while watching paint dry. Amazing the focus and problem solving this gives. I did break the second rule with my Mk VIII because I was waiting for serial numbers decals. Everything else was done. 

 

Ray

[Ray_W]

14 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

looking at the photo Ray, the DH on the right looks pretty close in spinner and blade shape

First thing I did when I got the kit was to look at the spinner and thought it seemed OK, but I am no expert in the vagaries of Spitfire propellers. All the different prop possibilities was a good pick up and then I thought well maybe it is different. Worthy of more study - the fun part.

[Ray_W]

1 hour ago, Troy Smith said:

looking at the photo Ray, the DH on the right looks pretty close in spinner and blade shape,  and if anything Airfix supplied the wrong one for the Vb,  the DH unit in the Vb being like the type use on the Mk.I

Not so good for a Vb, but handy for a Vc.... 

Sorry, no definitive answer on this,  you'll need to do some eyeballing of this, which I know your good at  

Troy,

 

I think Airfix has done us a favour and supplied us a nice rendition of a DH spinner and prop suitable for an RAAF Vc. I have not found spinner dimensions but by my eye it is so close it is hard to pick. At least it's not too long, too blunt, misshapen, oversize or undersize. Certainly for the early Vc's it looks very good. The only thing I feel is the prop shank maybe a little long and I was interested to read there was a 4000 and 5000 series shank in a thread you started at Key.Aero  https://www.key.aero/forum/historic-aviation/3860948-spitfire-v-propellers-and-spinners-trying-to-pin-down-visual-differences. Also, the prop diameter measures out correctly at 10' 9".

 

Even at this early stage, I think you can use it with confidence. It certainly captures the look for my subject - that pimple on a nose, fat jaw, tropical Vc look. Nothing like that oh so perfect Mk XIV front end currently coming together in my other build. It is a gorgeous bit of equipment.

 

 

 

Ray

[Ray_W]

For those who may happen to be contemplating this conversion and are following along, I also posted a list of proposed changes in the WW2 forum welcoming any corrections or additions. This can be found at:

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

FR XIV finished, Vc underway.

 

As usual I broke from the Airfix instructions and tacked the sidewalls in first so I could dry-fit the key parts and pre-plan any issues - again the goal is to avoid filler. Mods maybe, a little. Build no. Well we try anyway. Also much more fun detailing a cockpit working on the whole sidewall.

 

Light tack at the top, make sure all aligns nicely by dry fiting the bulkheads and its ready to go.

 

 

No real issues. Wing roots and fuselage are good. I will have to watch those fuselage tabs engage correctly into the wheel wells. I might add a cross member later to ensure firm engagement at the wing roots.

 

 

Dry fitting the air intake filter housing is not an issue. Just need to be careful and make sure edges are cleaned up. Only area needing a little more work is the fuel tank cover (much better than the Mk XIV) - just a little bit of filing will see to it. I will also sand down those Dzus fasteners, make them a fraction less proud.

 

 

With all good in the main fit areas, it was time to change to the real game - B-Wing to C-Wing.

 

I wanted to reduce as much panel line work as possible and also use existing panel lines as a guide. What can I use? For some reason I have suddenly collected a stack of finished C-Wing Spitfires. Any clues as to why this may be?

 

 

The Mk IX seemed a good candidate. I have to do early wide cannon blisters and check other differences but it should be a good guide. No I'm not going to copy Eduard rivets … this time. 

 

Where to start. File off the any lumps and bumps that should not be there and using my favourite filler (CA/Talc) fill unwanted panel lines, sand smooth and undercoat to check for defects repair and recoat. You then have a nice fresh canvas for C-wing panel lines and blisters.  Here's a picture at this stage, comparing the starboard C-wing, thus modified, to the port wing B-wing. 

 

 

Just a little bit on the modification work. 

 

I used tape to protect the surface and started with my favourite bit of conversion kit, a decent sized smooth file, to knock off the big features before removing the tape and using a small file followed by sanding and filling where required.  I like CA/talc because it takes a scribed line and feathers beautifully, shrinks minimally (if at all) and within 15 to 30 minutes I can start filing and sanding. Note I use Gel CA with talc. One good thing with the upper wing half is that you do not break through when removing the detail. Just a smooth surface. Lovely.

 

Here's the filler job on unwanted panel lines after removal of the blisters. Note the outboard MG access cover is a little too wide, should be 4 mm in 1/48, so I thought I'd correct this.

 

 

I also filled the dimple in the B-wing wheel well and removed the ribbing. I made the internal roof of the well a little concave to match the upper wing airfoil shape (well sort of) and will add new ribbing later.

 

 

Unlike the top wing half, the lower wing blister will break through or be exceptionally thin when fully removed . I did not want to break through and end up with a messy post fill and finish. I much prefer for this to be part of the first sanding job. You can see here, after the bulk filing, we're entering the danger zone.

 

 

Solution - I filled the back with, you guessed it, CA/Talc. I added a little reinforcing mesh (cut from a plastic teabag) to give it more strength.

 

 

Then just kept sanding down the outer wing blister as per normal to a nice smooth surface. I used a little polystyrene to fill the inboard MG case ejection port.

 

By the way, note the moulding defect short shot at the ejection pin position in that port flap. To be fixed.

 

 

So I'll finish that port wing and then have fun doing a little scribing before ejection ports and blisters.

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Because I cleaned up those wing surfaces and gave myself a "fresh canvas" to work on, the re-scribing of the C-Wing turned out to be a simple affair. The mods necessary are not huge. Of course you could go the full fill panel lines, re-scribe and rivet but I was keeping it as Airfix. This meant I had panel lines that would stay and these gave me a very good reference position to get dimensions and keep everything square. As mentioned in the previous post, I also made that outer MG cover a little skinnier. You can see the old B-Wing cannon blister position peeping out where I had sanded the undercoat to make a minor fix. 

 

 

The underside has a couple of those round access ports to fill and a couple to add. Again, not difficult stuff.

 

 

In terms of re-scribing really nothing new to add. Normal process. I also use the Tamiya micro saws.

 

 

So a C-Wing all re-scribed and ready for a few holes, bumps and lumps.

 

 

Ray

 

 

Edited June 3, 2020 by Ray_W
Sent too early

[Troy Smith]

Lovely work Ray.... I did say it was easy 

[Ray_W]

3 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

Lovely work Ray.... I did say it was easy 

Thanks Troy,

 

As usual your suggested mod was brilliant - simple and doable. I'll have to go to you on how to build the ultimate 1/48 Hurricane IIC. Another build on the bucket list. 

 

That spinner on the DH Hydromatic keeps glaring back at me. You are right, there is something going on, but I'm yet to nail it. A little longer, and smaller diameter just in front of the prop. How I would love some dimensions. 

 

I think the response you got from the Key.Aero forum last year from @anneorac nails it with the different spinners (Is that anneorac the same as on BM?). That response as you know follows, three different spinner part numbers:

 

For the DH props listed against the Mk.V I can find the following.

Bracket type 5/39, 10’ 9” Diameter, DP55409 Blades, P30100A or P30110A Spinner

Hydromatic Type 45/1 or 45/4, 10’ 9” Diameter, DP454509 Blades, P30510A Spinner

 

I'm on the hunt. Even looking at the spinner treatment on the 3-blade DH Hydromatic as supplied for the Buchon. No, it is different again.

 

I will modify that prop and spinner. It seems every kit I build of late I have to play with prop and spinner. 

 

Really enjoying this kit.

 

Ray

 

 

[Troy Smith]

4 minutes ago, Ray_W said:

(Is that anneorac the same as on BM?

yes.  Only an occasional poster, which is a shame.

 

4 minutes ago, Ray_W said:

I'll have to go to you on how to build the ultimate 1/48 Hurricane IIC. Another build on the bucket list. 

Just been discussing that with someone.  For a one off, nothing to hard.  I really should photo document, or dig out the photos  of the one I have been procrastinating about for years...

That's based on the Hasegawa kit BTW.

 

I'll clear some PM space and send you details to save clutter here.

[Ray_W]

I declare we have a wide cannon blister universal wing for a Mk V.

 

 

A few blisters from shaped sprue and card added. Some ejection ports drilled and shaped. I'll do the leading edge stuff like cannons and MG holes when the wings are assembled. Still not decided on the representation for the flap indicators. Maybe leave them proud (wrong) with just a bit of sanding down. 

 

All is now good to go.  I'll put the wing halves back in the box and swing to a more normal build - the cockpit. 

 

Here is an image showing the finished changes. I used the macro and the lines are a little pixelated. :

 

 

 

You may be interested to know how I made those blisters. I could not find dimensions so studied some photos on what the shape appears to be. What makes the wide cannon blister a little easier is its size is determined by the cannon access panel.

 

1. First cut a couple of pieces of card a little oversize for what is needed. They seemed a little higher than the single cannon blister so measuring from the Eduard Mk IX I decided on a slightly thicker finish dimension of 1.6 mm, a 1/48 scaled 3".

 

 

2. I want to shape two blisters the same so I glue them together with a small amount of CA. The CA will give plenty of strength to hold yet can be pried apart later. Shiny plastic together and just a little CA and not where the parts will be thin.

 

 

3. I choose a key view for the first shape. In this case the  plan view. The tear drop. I start with a marking pen line of the shape to rough it down, but it is largely done by eye. The mating CA's edges are a finish face so these are accurately matched.

 

 

4. Having got the plan view right,  I then choose another face and do the same. This time the side view. I work on the top and bottom halves for shape and similarity. Still not finished but getting there.

 

 

 

5. Then choose anther view, the end view and do the same. 

 

 

6. Being happy with the shape from the major three directions I then radius the edges as best as I can to match reference photos. Voila! You've made a pumpkin seed.

 

 

7. I pry the halves apart and I have two blisters that are a reasonable match. You can sand them a little more then stick them in place and do a little more work on them in situ as desired.

 

 

I use the same principle of working in one view at a time for small items like these blisters. Shape a little sprue to match the airfoil required then shape the end, part off and then shape another and part off and so on and so forth. Quick and easy when you have just a couple to do. 

 

 

You may have other techniques, let me know.

 

Ray

[Steve 1602]

Good work Ray. I like the matched blisters approach. Very ingenious.

 

Steve