Frah2o Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 In the meantime I am finishing another 2 WRC delta, I started thinking about my next project. I write a premise: my good friend model maker Riccardo tried to take me on the "right" way of the hystoric racing. The idea would have been a LeMans (the 4H race in the 24) # 62 driven by Lennep with an NA engine and Martini livery ..... not to be confused with the Turbo # 46 always used by Lennep, always at LeMans, always Martini but at 24H race. Beautiful cars, but that don't make “fall in love” like an mp4/4 or a Delta. If I continue to model my historical subjects it will be the F1, the WRC and some LeMans .... the rest I like custom or tuning like my Golf GTI My inspiration starts from a Porsche seen live at Woerthersee 2013 .... an awesome USA 964: it is practically original, just very low (airride) and a rotiform rims. The idea of my Porsche is based on this: a car with original shapes (practically a sleeper .... if a sleeper can be defined as a Porsche) "slammed" on the ground, 4 rims but with a turbo engine and therefore probably with the rear open bumper and with turbo clearly visible just like on the Lennep RSR in 24H Lemans Now I’m studying the various engines between the various 935 of 76 and 79; there will be a lot to work and it will not be easy ... I don't even know if I will be able. I have the first 21 double issues with the possibility of understanding how difficult it will be to move the cooling fan horizontally The biggest problems will be: -Exhaust manifolds -Wastegate -Turbo intake -alternator -Intercooler position The rest will be the classic two-seater, internally emptied, rollcage and the usual mix of carbon, airride and bbs rims We will see that “salade” will emerge from it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Stunning as always. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCH Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 I'll definitely be watching. What is the basis model/manufacturer for this build? That's a lovely chassis and the packaging is over the top. You do like large scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR2Don Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Curiosity on my part. What is the smaller bore "exhaust" that sits next to the main one, I've noticed it on a lot of 934 photos and I've got the Tamiya 1/12 934RSR to set about at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 49 minutes ago, MR2Don said: Curiosity on my part. What is the smaller bore "exhaust" that sits next to the main one, I've noticed it on a lot of 934 photos and I've got the Tamiya 1/12 934RSR to set about at some point. The wastegate gate blow off pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 A couple of commissioned Delta are now almost completed ... I finally free from that it seemed a captivity; Now I can finally return to my own models. I started working on the ride height, on future rims and Others. And i start to convert this naturally aspirated flat six into a turbo. I tryed the future RC rims which are slightly larger in diameter than the original Fuchs and which fit quite well on the original golf gti tires. I started by assembling the chassis, transmission, suspension unit to work on the set-up. The original height is very high for me. I have identified where i can made changes and adjust to drop it go. The rim is a wider and to fit the tire I belted it with a strip of styrene to stretch and to achieve the same width as the rim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 The original height for me is very embarrassing At the rear, to lower it, I removed a pin that is a stopper on the joint where the swinging arm is fixed. I removed that and shortened the spring by 9mm and used a spacer to raise the end of the shock absorber. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 On the front, however, I have to work more harder. The front arms touch the frame with a extremely dropping chassis. Other problems are that the steering arms work as a contrast spring and the front fenders did not allow the housing of the tire with this drastically drop. In addition to thinning the front arms, another interference is caused by a reinforcement rod on the front arm itself .... and I started creating the notch on the frame. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 At this point is already much better ... but with the front I am still not very satisfied. 😐 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 Other interferences to drop front are the internal fenders and the vertical rising of the shock absorbers ... the head of the absorber hit the inner of front trunk. I started to file but it was not enough, I replaced the screws with washers with screws from Delta kit but still not enough. I cut the part of the fender that hit the wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 I modified the housing of the steering box by raising it to make the arms work better and without having the effect of a spring on wheel hubs. Furthermore, to remedy the problem of too high front shock absorbers, I drilled the stems deeper to have more space for the screw and finally I shortened them by 4mm. Now I reached the result what I was looking for 😇 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 Once I found my right set up, I arrived at the first "point of no return". Using the image of his sister RSR, I removed the trunk strut of the bodywork and chassis ... with the rear outside turbo they will no longer be needed. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 I continue the opening of the engine compartment in the crossbar area; I start thinking about the turbo, exhausts and intercooler group. I installed the engine to calculate the next works. The turbo will be positioned in the zone like on its sister RSR. i started with the mutual help with Eidai parts. In the RSR the engine frame is not complete as on the RS, the engine frame towards the opening of the engine hood are not present and the engine is fixed with the aid of a trapezoidal frame directly connected to the frame side members. This frame as well as being a fixing point for the engine also has the function of supporting the turbo. My idea is to replicate this frame using the Eidai one as the dimension and matrix as it fits perfectly onto the DeA chassis. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 (edited) Each kit has its flaws and this is part of this "game"... but what makes me smile / angry is the extreme difference in the detail of the monoblock. The lower monoblocks in comparison are always the Eidai and the Dea. In the RSR the fins of the cylinders and the 6 connections of the exhaust manifold have been reproduced, in addition the 4 barrels (I think they cover the studs that fix the heads) are removable and there is a little details of nuts and bolts. The gearbox has greater detail and is much more realistic than the Dea gearbox too. The eidai is almost 50 years old .... the porsche Dea is maybe 3. The heads and cylinders of the DEA cannot be looked at. This RS was created to mount the original exhaust equipped with 2 side silencers and the central one. By turning it into a turbo all this exhaust will remain in the box. The big problem is that Dea (in addition to having made a very coarse monoblock) has planted pegs and made some screw holes in correspondence with the future connections of the 6 exhaust ports. So I rest my heart in peace and I started sawing and filing to smooth out the first of the 2 banks. My idea is to try to reconstruct the fins (or at least part of it) with plasticard and to build the exhaust ports from which the 6 manifolds will start, which will then converge to the turbo ... as the image and likeness of the RSR Edited March 13, 2021 by Frah2o 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Crane Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 I like your approach to the subject very, very much! 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 42 minutes ago, Matt Crane said: I like your approach to the subject very, very much! 👍 Thank you very Much Matt for these words....I'll try to do my best. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 This is some really impressive surgery to the deagostini kit. Are the body and engine block metal? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 15 hours ago, rjfk2002 said: This is some really impressive surgery to the deagostini kit. Are the body and engine block metal? Hi Rjfk. Yes, body, engine and all the suspension unit is in metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 The cylindes group is also smoothed. But before starting to think about the exhaust manifolds, I must first put together the engine in its total size. The upper part does not distinguish between the head, fan cowling, fuel system… it looks like the whole cooling cowling but in reality it is not. The Porsche engine is framed on the front… ..that does not exist on the front of the RSR… well, I started by eliminating it here too. But by removing it, all the crack remains due to the absence of the front frame piece. I removed what I needed and started working to close this gap. Another problem: the timing covers. The carters have an external rib which in 1: 1 are used to fix the front part of the frame that is no longer there. The right timing cover has the correct rib or eyelid and at the right height. On the left instead: - no right height (remains too low compared to the upper half colored in silver) - no rib I acted like this: - I raised the timing cover by calculating the missing thickness and placing it at the same level as the upper part. - I took out the wrong rib - I filled the loop for the screw - I recreated the most protruding rib Finally assembled everything to see the overall effect ... .. the screws on the casings will disappear ... but for the moment I need to keep everything squared 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 Viewing the 2.7 engine pics online, the Dea engine brings to light other inconsistencies and mistakes. The top of the timing cover has ribs found on other flat sixes… but not on this 2.7 With the dremel I smoothed out the ribs and reduced the height of the upper timing cover bolts I continued and I think finished the operation of opening the engine compartment, eliminating the last crossbars. I also cut by eliminating the original engine mounts, as on the RSR the engine is supported by that trapezoidal frame mentioned above. I repositioned the engine: the Eidai frame has a correct wheelbase and if my Porsche had been high from the factory even in depth I think it would have been fine. Having lowered the entire car body by 14 mm if I replicated it on an equal footing, I would have an inadequate ground clearance and the turbo downpipe would be scrap on the ground. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 My good model friend of Riccardo always tells me: "the man who makes models with legos" [lol] Replicating the slightly V-shaped central bracket that follows the physiognomy of the monobloc is possible to scratch but it is a long job. My Danish friends served me the solution (as usual) on a silver plate. I Take 2 bricks, created the loop for the central frame and created the loops for the other lateral ones. This frame will become load-bearing for both the engine and the turbo. To center it at the "v" of the base, the perfect position falls on the side of the side chassis struts. I will open a slot in order to drop from the top and set the frame which will then be fixed to the monobloc by means of 4 studs (as on the real RSR) On the central plate we will then have to think about how to fix the Turbo and the heat shield. A lot of work to do, but i'm think on the right way. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 I started with the main part of this conversion: the turbo. Making me the turbos by myself was and is a difficult to made and also impossible for me. So for the 0.70 cent I took a keychain with a compressor (or cold side of turbo unit) attached. Given the generous dimensions, the problem was the exhaust side turbo (or hot side) which also on the RSR is slightly smaller in diameter. Having various pieces of the mp4/4 .... I borrowed an IHI compressor (which will then be modified in the connection for the downpipe to the exhausts and will be modified for the exhaust outlet) In the middle I have the hub on which the various lubrication pipes will then be applied. I drilled the hub, I disassembled the compressor and drilled and and then I modified the turbo of the mp4 to insert a 2.5 m nut Starting from the compressor to get up to the turbo, there is a 16mm Allen key that crosses the whole body and screws onto the turbo itself .... practically in reality it would be the shaft, in the model it is the hub that holds everything together the whole turbo compressor unit . Once the turbo is paired and created, it's time to fix it to the crossbar. I created the bracket that supports the turbo with 1mm aluminum. I pierced the "breech" of the turbo, fixed the bracket and finally I bent it in a U shape to go and slip back into the usual turbo screw-shaft. Once shaped, I then fixed it to the crossbar using 2 Allen screws. Given the weight and size, the glue was absolutely not practicable, furthermore making everything removable is easier for modifications, coloring and tests with the exhausts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 I have the turbo. 😇 And now begins an unknown work: Make the exhaust syestem from scratch. I will fix the frame solidly to the engine and then I will start with the exhaust and the westgate unit 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 (edited) Nice project and nice work. Some inspiration : For reference purpose only Sincerely Pascal Edited March 15, 2021 by Pascal 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frah2o Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 (edited) Thanks for pics Pascal! Edited March 15, 2021 by Frah2o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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