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Revell 1/48 Mosquito


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How can I repair  and crinckled  / orange peeled  decal  that has had a layer of Tamiya  Laquer  rattle can  Flat coat,    I noticed it today  after the  flat coat wa applied ab out a week ago,   will putting on a few coats of micro sol  break through the Laquer  top coat  to smooth out the decal?

 

Kind regards.

Edited by ERK
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2 hours ago, ERK said:

How can I repair  and crinckled  / orange peeled  decal  that has had a layer of Tamiya  Laquer  rattle can  Flat coat,    I noticed it today  after the  flat coat wa applied ab out a week ago,   will putting on a few coats of micro sol  break through the Laquer  top coat  to smooth out the decal?

 

Kind regards.

Please  folks  - give us some feedback  and advice  really  struggling with this one  - and I cant put a pic on  tried via Twitter  no good.

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5 minutes ago, ERK said:

Please  folks  - give us some feedback  and advice  really  struggling with this one  - and I cant put a pic on  tried via Twitter  no good.

Try uploading a photo to Imgur and then pasting the link here.

Edited by Sturmovik
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I used Tamiya  TS80  clear flat  Laquer rattle can over the top  after letting the decs sit  for about a week,  they are perfectly fine  everywhere else on the model  - just really bad in the one area in the pic,   I have since tried to put on a few layers of micro sol  leaving about Two hours between layers  to see if it will  do any good.

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I'm fairly certain the rattle can is where you went wrong.  I have experienced this myself - sometimes the propellant in the can can "spurt" out ot times mixed with the paint/clear lacquer inside and can craze decals and paint.  There is no fixing that decal as it will react to any form of paint strip activity (chemical or manual).  You could try some tacky masking tape and try pulling the decal free of the kit, but then you'll be faced with another problem of a) finding the same squadron codes, and b) matching the flat lacquer so it doesn't look patchy. 

 

Sadly, I think there's only one fix for this, my friend: Strip and start again.  Bummer ERK - I'm sure you put a ton of hard work into that.  

 

BEFORE YOU STRIP: Wait to see if anyone else has a differing fix that may work.  They'd be a magician...

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9 minutes ago, Shark444 said:

I'm fairly certain the rattle can is where you went wrong.  I have experienced this myself - sometimes the propellant in the can can "spurt" out ot times mixed with the paint/clear lacquer inside and can craze decals and paint.  There is no fixing that decal as it will react to any form of paint strip activity (chemical or manual).  You could try some tacky masking tape and try pulling the decal free of the kit, but then you'll be faced with another problem of a) finding the same squadron codes, and b) matching the flat lacquer so it doesn't look patchy. 

 

Sadly, I think there's only one fix for this, my friend: Strip and start again.  Bummer ERK - I'm sure you put a ton of hard work into that.  

 

BEFORE YOU STRIP: Wait to see if anyone else has a differing fix that may work.  They'd be a magician...

Thank you kindly for replying,    its a special build  in my late farthers  memory as he used to service them during the war,  I have been working on her for about 6 months and had a few hick ups  namely with the top coat  and mixing Acrylic and Laquer.

 

I ahve been trying to apply coats of micro sol ontop to see if that will do anything, also considered  trying gentle polishing  to see if that would smooth out what is there.

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Somebody suggested to apply a few coats of flat clear over the top  to seal it in even more  -  they said it might help to make it less obvious.

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Any decal setting solution will not penetrate the top layer, unfortunately. It looks as though your clear coat reacted negatively with the decals, which has been know to happen from time to time, especially with “hot” clear coats such as lacquer. I think you’ve got three options:

  1. Try adding additional flat coat and ignore it when displaying
  2. Try to remove the decal, and replace it with another. This might be tricky given it’s already been sealed, but not impossible. 
  3. Sand the area down, repaint, and then replace the decal. 

Did these decals come with the kit? Someone may have an extra sheet due to using another option, or some aftermarket decals. It’s worth a shot!

 

Good luck!

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2 minutes ago, RadMax8 said:

Any decal setting solution will not penetrate the top layer, unfortunately. It looks as though your clear coat reacted negatively with the decals, which has been know to happen from time to time, especially with “hot” clear coats such as lacquer. I think you’ve got three options:

  1. Try adding additional flat coat and ignore it when displaying
  2. Try to remove the decal, and replace it with another. This might be tricky given it’s already been sealed, but not impossible. 
  3. Sand the area down, repaint, and then replace the decal. 

Did these decals come with the kit? Someone may have an extra sheet due to using another option, or some aftermarket decals. It’s worth a shot!

 

Good luck!

No they are the Eagle ones, I had  destroyed the kit ones when I had a reaction between using acrylic  brush top coat over Laquer  spray coats, I had to strip it down then, this was befor doing a fresh paint job, its only on the one side  where the decal has reacted.

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If you have put so much lacquer on and it is well and truly dry try to polish it back with a very fine sanding stick, the three very fine grades on one stick variety. If it goes horribly wrong , say down to plastic I would just mask off the codes area and re paint. There are lots of inexpensive sheets of codes and you could make a feature of it, that it had just been transferred squadrons...……. 

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Just a small update  - after  looking at the damaged decals, I decided to try to weather them and give them worn look, I did this by using some very fine wet and dry  along with some  soapy water, I gently sanded over the decals on both sides till they looked slighty worn.

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Here is an update  including a few pics  showing the damaged decals  lightly sanded with fine wet and dry, and also the tops of the wings and fuselage  before I noticed the damaged decal.

Edited by ERK
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19 hours ago, ERK said:

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Here is an update  including a few pics  showing the damaged decals  lightly sanded with fine wet and dry, and also the tops of the wings and fuselage  before I noticed the damaged decal.

The weathering via sanding is an interesting idea (I kinda like it!).  You might want to try to tape them off with de-tacked tamiya masking tape and then shoot the black areas again where there are some white cracks, but overall a pretty good recovery!  Keep going, we want to see more!  🙂

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I have occasionally been able to remove decals with Micro Set (not Sol!). It takes many coats and lots of gentle persuasion with a brush. Worth a crack.

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5 minutes ago, Bell209 said:

I have occasionally been able to remove decals with Micro Set (not Sol!). It takes many coats and lots of gentle persuasion with a brush. Worth a crack.

I have already  top coated over the top of the decals so they are sealed down,   that is what caused the problem in the first place, the laquer top coat rattle can went on to heavy  over that part of the model causing the problem,   I have since used some fine wet and dry to smooth it a bit but without ruining the decal - its kind of a weatherd look.

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Hi all,   I got round  to putting a few coats of flat top coat laquer  over mossie,   this time I spent more time controling how much spray went on in one layer.

 

Just a couple of pics showing the area I had trouble with after applying the fresh top coat.spacer.pngspacer.png

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Hi all,    after fitting the aerial  (that is a story in its self - been fitted Three times)   and finished a bit more wear and tear  (weathering)   I have decided to call the main build finished,  just need to finish the Four 500 pounders  that are being painted at the moment, then will have thier arming  colour bands on them.spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

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