unlikeKansas Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Probably something that is common knowledge to the general population, but I've never done it before 1) Scan the painting instructions from the model of your choice e.g. Airfix Vulcan 2) Scale up the painting instructions from the scan using your favourite photo manipulation software (the scale up factor for me was 280% to get it to 1/72 scale 3) Print the scaled up instructions at real size. You may need to print several pages to get the whole model covered. Especially for the Vulcan on an A4 printer 4) Cut the scaled up instructions into the masks required 5) Dip the masks into a dish of water. (80 gsm printer paper sucks up water like a sponge) 6) Lay the wet masks on the model to be sprayed 7) Spray away 8 Remove the masks when the paint has dried 9) I was pleasantly surprised by the result. The camouflage for my Vulcan has a good hard edge, so obviously this technique won't work for feathered edge camouflage As I said, first time I've ever tried this, but I couldn't afford the 20 pound vinyl camo masks for a 1/72 Vulcan that are available from various suppliers. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mancunian airman Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 I do a similar thing but tape the mask to the kit, usually aircraft, draw the camou lines with a pencil then as I hand brush its a hard edge. Your technique sound like something I could try on smaller aircraft . . . thanks for sharing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorby Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 12 minutes ago, unlikeKansas said: 5) Dip the masks into a dish of water. (80 gsm printer paper sucks up water like a sponge) 6) Lay the wet masks on the model to be sprayed 7) Spray away That's a damn good idea! I've used other similar methods and usually put masking tape on a clear, thin sheet with the design behind and then cut the tape with a scalpel. I've not though/heard of using water to get it to adhere to the model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unlikeKansas Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 17 minutes ago, Mancunian airman said: I do a similar thing but tape the mask to the kit, usually aircraft, draw the camou lines with a pencil then as I hand brush its a hard edge. Your technique sound like something I could try on smaller aircraft . . . thanks for sharing I've tried masking tape and then cutting it with a really sharp blade, but no matter how carefully I do it it always ends up with a score mark on the model. That's why I tried to think out of the square with this technique Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mancunian airman Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Sorry to clarify . . . I have the paper mask on the cutting mat, I cut out a color then lay it on the model . . . you could do the same then soak it on the model I suppose 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorby Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 15 minutes ago, unlikeKansas said: no matter how carefully I do it it always ends up with a score mark on the model. I don't do it on the model: I use this set up: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis95 Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 This is intriguing. I might try and do this for my current build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzulscha Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 I use damp paper masks over delicate finishes that won't handle sticky tape. Metallic finishes in particular. I was amazed how well it worked the first time I tried. Would Recommend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 On 5/16/2020 at 11:01 AM, Gorby said: I don't do it on the model: I use this set up: Now, I really like that set up! What is it? An acrylic model display case over a torch and using a seperate sheet of clear plastic for the actual cutting surface? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorby Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 9 hours ago, Murdo said: What is it? An acrylic model display case over a torch and using a seperate sheet of clear plastic for the actual cutting surface? A good few years ago my step-son bought a grossly overpriced gaming mouse and the perspex case was part of the packaging.It's made from 2.5mm thick, very rigid, clear plastic and is ideal – and best of all, it was FREE! I don't like decals so whenever possible I cut masks instead – the decal or whatever I'm copying, is taped face up, to a thin sheet of clear plastic (from food packaging normally) and then the masking tape on the top. Usually I cover the space that I'm not working on with paper so that I'm not staring intently into a very bright LED bulb: Then it's down to how steady your hand is to cut them out. I'd love one of those silhouette cutting thingies, but until the price comes down I'll carry on doing it this way. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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