Jump to content

1/16 Bushmaster PMV - paint applied


GMK

Recommended Posts

I have been working on a 1/16 Boxer 8x8.
 


As the Lance turret won’t be delivered until later this year, I’ve decided to move my CAD learning on to a new subject, the Bushmaster Protected Mobility Vehicle (PMV), in-service with Australia, Britain, The Netherlands, Japan, Fiji, and Indonesia. 

spacer.png

 

Measuring up a museum example, I’ve started drawing up & 3D printing the stowage bins. Drawing on lessons from printing Lance turret, I’ve decided to skin the most prominent surface with 1mm thick styrene to ease clean up & detailing. 
 

spacer.png

 

Part of the detail to be resolved was the exhaust grille - 40 slots on top & 36 triangular holes. After finishing the CAD, I asked a mate to print it on his resin printer. Turned out pretty well:

 

spacer.png


Compared to the 1/1:

 

spacer.png

 

Now on to the rest of the beast:

 

spacer.png

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, viper-30 said:

That’s cool have the 1/35 version 

I helped out with that kit, back in the day. Even got my name on the instructions!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Romeo Alpha Yankee said:

How big will this be in 1/16 Greg?

Hey, Ray,

 

The combat Winnebago will be 48cm long, 15cm wide, & 26.5 high. Not little!

 

Spent last night drawing up latches & hinges for printing. Essentially, this is like creating your own aftermarket parts from primary references. 
 

Modelling skills are still required once the parts are produced. 
 

spacer.png

 

Those parts will be 5.3125mm high, when printed. 
 

spacer.png

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Started the upper part of the monocoque hull, above the chine, to get a better feel how my reference dimensions & angles will interact, and whether they’ll look prototypical. 
 

Here it is, so far. 
 

spacer.png


spacer.png

 

spacer.png

Pretty happy!

Edited by GMK
Additional images.
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The test print revealed some issues not apparent (to me) in the CAD previously. 

 

spacer.png

 

Have updated the model & will do another test print. 
 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png
 

spacer.png

 

It isn’t little!

 

spacer.png

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

More progress, including an update to the lower hull. This lower hull will be used to index & confirm the fit & location suspension components from the Trumpeter M-ATV. 
 

The hull is 125mm/~5” long so far. 
 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png


Visible here is the asymmetrical lower hull, with an offset base to encapsulate the drive train. Also visible (barely) is some stringing from me omitting print supports. 

 

spacer.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back with an example of some advantages of rapid prototyping. There are two types of armoured antenna mounts on the Bushmaster, one for the side (four each) & one for the rear (two each). 
 

Including dimensioning, these took thirty minutes to draw.

 

spacer.png


Once happy, I conducted a test print for fit & finish. 17 minutes later, this was the result:


spacer.png

 

The recess that I’ll use to centre the AMUs themselves is a bit vague due to limitations of my FDM printer. Still, the dimensions check out and the basics have been confirmed. 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Ray. 
 

Larger stowage bins are 10-12 hours, as are the upper hull quarters. The lower hull was 28 hours, with my longest print to date (on a different project) being 52 hours. 

 

Factors affecting print duration are % of infill, wall thickness, size, resolution, detail, and quality (fast vs. high quality). 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, GMK said:

Larger stowage bins are 10-12 hours, as are the upper hull quarters. The lower hull was 28 hours, with my longest print to date (on a different project) being 52 hours.

Crumbs there was me thinking it was a fairly fast process, turns out it would be faster using plasticard and hand tools, i hesitate to ask but how much did the complete rig cost and how long did it take to learn the software?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, M3talpig said:

Crumbs there was me thinking it was a fairly fast process, turns out it would be faster using plasticard and hand tools, i hesitate to ask but how much did the complete rig cost and how long did it take to learn the software?

It’s a bit horses for courses, imo. The overall length of the Bushmaster in 1/16 is about 48 cm/18”, so it’s a big job.
 

My initial plans for this (in 2009!), were to use 2mm-thick styrene. Still have the 2’ long sheets. The size of this monocoque hull exceeded the material strength of the plastic under the original plan. Lots of windows meant that bracing you’d normally use aren’t an option for this particular build.
 

That’s why I’m skinning the parts With sheet styrene - the strength and precision is mostly given by the 3D printed parts, with the smooth surface finish and ease of working will be given by the plastic sheet. 
 

The software - Fusion 360 - is free. I downloaded it two months ago, so I’m still learning how to make it work. I’ve been told it’s ‘easy to learn but hard to master’, and I’d agree with that. Lots of other software options available. In normal circumstances, I’m on the road for about half of the year. CAD means I can now model while travelling. 

Printers vary a lot in price. Mine is a laser cutter, CNC mill, and a printer, but the working space is really too small for my preferred scale of 1/16. Still, there was no change from $800 Australian back in 2018. I used it mainly to print things from free CAD places, like GrabCAD or Thingiverse. Of course, that limited me whatever designs other people had done. 
 

I’m looking to upgrade now that I’ve incorporated CAD into the toolbox.

 

HTH

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some Bushmasters are fitted with the EOS R-400 remote weapon station, known as the ‘Protected Weapon Station’ when fitted. 
 

This is the start of the CAD for the centre section of the PWS. 
spacer.png

 

A test print resulted in this (the yellow, resin piece is in 1/35):

 

spacer.png

 

Need to work on the print quality for more detailed parts, as can be seen here. The styrene sheet background is Wave Corp printed grid. 

 

spacer.png

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 21/05/2020 at 16:38, GMK said:

Printers vary a lot in price. Mine is a laser cutter, CNC mill, and a printer, but the working space is really too small for my preferred scale of 1/16. Still, there was no change from $800 Australian back in 2018. I used it mainly to print things from free CAD places, like GrabCAD or Thingiverse. Of course, that limited me whatever designs other people had done. 

Well at that kind of money i don't think it will be something in my future :D but i do find the technology very interesting and you seem fairly at home with it, another question if you don't mind ....how much is the raw material you use to print with and how much do you use per average print?

 

Sorry for the delay in response...broke a tooth and with no dentist's willing to make contact with anybody im looking at doing some modifications to myself shortly....lot of pain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, M3talpig said:

Well at that kind of money i don't think it will be something in my future :D but i do find the technology very interesting and you seem fairly at home with it, another question if you don't mind ....how much is the raw material you use to print with and how much do you use per average print?

 

Sorry for the delay in response...broke a tooth and with no dentist's willing to make contact with anybody im looking at doing some modifications to myself shortly....lot of pain.

Yikes! Sorry to hear about your tooth. What a nightmare!

 

You can get printers a lot cheaper than what I quoted, I just wanted the additional functionality that my particular one offered. 

 

The filament I use is $15 per 500 grams, with prints averaging 25-70 grams for the larger prints. “At home” is relative: it’s a process of experimentation and errors. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great work GMK. A very challenging subject with lots of weird angles and faceted faces. Nice to see that Wave Corp plastic sheet on the workbench. I think you will like it!

 

Also really interested in your approach regarding skinning the 3D print. A very smart idea I think.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

Great work GMK. A very challenging subject with lots of weird angles and faceted faces. Nice to see that Wave Corp plastic sheet on the workbench. I think you will like it!

 

Also really interested in your approach regarding skinning the 3D print. A very smart idea I think.

Thanks for the kind words, @Bandsaw Steve - having watched your builds since the AE2, I appreciate the feedback. 
 

Each half of the top of the hull has a total of three segments, about 44 hours printing in total. 
 

Here’s what the slicing software looks like. The file is ‘sliced’ into gcode, gcode essentially the directions to the printer on how to print (speed, flow rate, infill proportion, wall thickness, etc.) the design. 
 

spacer.png

 

The purple is support structures, printed at 15% density, so that openings will maintain their integrity over the ~18 hours of printing. 
 

spacer.png
 

Looks like a Bushmaster. And with the support structure:
 

spacer.png


Seems to be coming together. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, 18 hours later, this:

 

spacer.png

 

Resulted in this:

 

spacer.png

 

Need to remove the support structures & glue the segments together before cleaning up. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back with a little more progress. 
spacer.png

 

The right side has been glued together, the support material removed, and the initial clean up commenced. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...