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Work on the hull and preparation for paint.
I removed all the factory-cast ornaments and "thickened" the hull at the gun ports.

 

 

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I am very hesitant about which board the entrance should be on.
The anatomy of the ship is shown on the starboard side, but as far as I know - it depends on the year.
Please, if anyone knows where the damn entrance was in the period 1800 - 1820 let me say. ))

Thanks 

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There were 4 previous ships to have the name of  Victory, So you would have to be carefull 

 I would  assume McKay drawing on page 68 to be right Port entry Starboard side.

_MG_4711

 

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After some hesitation whether to have an entrance, whether to have one or two entrances, and on which side to be, I decided to make two entrances - respectively on the left and right board.
Since the left board is the front of the model - I put the 3D printed arch on it.
I copied the arch for the left one from the pear.
Accordingly, I made the steps again from pear.

 

 

 

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Next step - painting.
First inside - tile red - a mixture of 3 types of paint.
Outside - a thin layer of the main "yellow" color.

 

 

 

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This model looks very nice and I absolutely respect the amount of time and detail you are adding to your build. I have this kit and call it my retirement kit as an excuse not to try and start it and bodge it. I spent around £300 on etch, wooden decking, resin parts etc. and its just sitting in the box on the shelf of retirement models. I will enjoy following your build here onwards having myself just started my first proper ship kit of the 1/200 Trumpeter Titanic. Good luck with your Victory, at least she has a happier story to tell than the model of the ship I'm building...

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On 8/26/2020 at 11:56 AM, Gimme Shelter said:

This model looks very nice and I absolutely respect the amount of time and detail you are adding to your build. I have this kit and call it my retirement kit as an excuse not to try and start it and bodge it. I spent around £300 on etch, wooden decking, resin parts etc. and its just sitting in the box on the shelf of retirement models. I will enjoy following your build here onwards having myself just started my first proper ship kit of the 1/200 Trumpeter Titanic. Good luck with your Victory, at least she has a happier story to tell than the model of the ship I'm building...

Thanks, I'm glad you like it.
I will photograph in detail each stage of the construction, at the risk of becoming annoying, and the topic will become many pages.
I think this ship deserves it.
I did not order the decks ready-made - I will make them myself from pear. I will show the technology in detail.
Greetings!

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On 26/08/2020 at 07:31, Moarein said:

Next step - painting.
First inside - tile red - a mixture of 3 types of paint.
Outside - a thin layer of the main "yellow" color.

 

 

 

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Looking forward to how you reproduce the balusters and scrolling on the stern, When I found the stern on my Victory had a bad molding I wrote to Heller to get another.

Following with interest. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Gun port covers - ready.
They are numbered, so I know who's where, that's a big horror.
The hinges are photoeched. I glued 0.5 mm maple veneer on the inside.
In principle, they are installed last - even after the sails, because they stick out during the manipulations.
As they are numbered, they go to the closet to wait in line.

 

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Coming along very nicely 🙂

 

And you are right, if a side entry port is added, then on both sides.

 

All the best, DAniel

Edited by dafi
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Hi Jim, I was about to ask the same question. I did find some 3D printed ones on Shapeways, they look really good. Go on the website and put HMS Victory 1/100 into the search box. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Work on the building continues:
- I cut out the ornaments on the nose, as I will replace them with 3D ones
- masking, and spraying until fainting
- painting of the stern coat of arms:

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Please someone who knows more about this ship - let him explain - should the rivets on the copper plating be imitated?
I think that on a scale of 1/100 they will be too small (about 0.1 mm) and in reality they will hardly be visible.

I am also interested in the real ship, whether the rivets on the copper plating were as pronounced as in the ships of a later period.

Thanks in advance.

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Hiya, I feel that reproducing the nail heads may be unneccessary. Copper nail heads on copper sheets at this scale after weathering will be virtually invisible. A very light going over with a fine tooth pounce wheel will provide an indication of them. I am probably going to do mine as a waterline on a sea base, which will avoid most of that issue, lol. BTW,  where did you get the parts for the figurehead and stern decorations? I bought some stern balustrades from Shapeways, but they are a bit on the small side and don't fit as well as yours. Regards, Pete in RI

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40 minutes ago, europapete said:

Hiya, I feel that reproducing the nail heads may be unneccessary. Copper nail heads on copper sheets at this scale after weathering will be virtually invisible. A very light going over with a fine tooth pounce wheel will provide an indication of them. I am probably going to do mine as a waterline on a sea base, which will avoid most of that issue, lol. BTW,  where did you get the parts for the figurehead and stern decorations? I bought some stern balustrades from Shapeways, but they are a bit on the small side and don't fit as well as yours. Regards, Pete in RI

 

Hello,
I took my balustrades from here:

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/PP36PZ3MR/1-100-heller-9-6-hms-victory-stern-gallery

 

 

I have the same opinion about rivets, but I still think of imitating them with something sharp.
I will show when I'm ready :)
Thanks.

 

PS

And what is your opinion about the copper cladding line?
The anatomy shows how the bearings of the copper plating are slightly higher.
In this case, Heller's model does not provide this possibility - if I raise the copper a little, it will cover the boards at the nose and I will have "copper" boards :)

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