Moarein Posted August 17, 2020 Author Share Posted August 17, 2020 Work on the hull and preparation for paint. I removed all the factory-cast ornaments and "thickened" the hull at the gun ports. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted August 17, 2020 Author Share Posted August 17, 2020 I am very hesitant about which board the entrance should be on. The anatomy of the ship is shown on the starboard side, but as far as I know - it depends on the year. Please, if anyone knows where the damn entrance was in the period 1800 - 1820 let me say. )) Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted August 17, 2020 Share Posted August 17, 2020 There were 4 previous ships to have the name of Victory, So you would have to be carefull I would assume McKay drawing on page 68 to be right Port entry Starboard side. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 After some hesitation whether to have an entrance, whether to have one or two entrances, and on which side to be, I decided to make two entrances - respectively on the left and right board. Since the left board is the front of the model - I put the 3D printed arch on it. I copied the arch for the left one from the pear. Accordingly, I made the steps again from pear. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
europapete Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 This is looking awesome, well done. Am keeping a printed copy of this build in a file book for when i get to mine. Regards, Pete in RI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 Next step - painting. First inside - tile red - a mixture of 3 types of paint. Outside - a thin layer of the main "yellow" color. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimme Shelter Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 This model looks very nice and I absolutely respect the amount of time and detail you are adding to your build. I have this kit and call it my retirement kit as an excuse not to try and start it and bodge it. I spent around £300 on etch, wooden decking, resin parts etc. and its just sitting in the box on the shelf of retirement models. I will enjoy following your build here onwards having myself just started my first proper ship kit of the 1/200 Trumpeter Titanic. Good luck with your Victory, at least she has a happier story to tell than the model of the ship I'm building... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted August 27, 2020 Author Share Posted August 27, 2020 On 8/26/2020 at 11:56 AM, Gimme Shelter said: This model looks very nice and I absolutely respect the amount of time and detail you are adding to your build. I have this kit and call it my retirement kit as an excuse not to try and start it and bodge it. I spent around £300 on etch, wooden decking, resin parts etc. and its just sitting in the box on the shelf of retirement models. I will enjoy following your build here onwards having myself just started my first proper ship kit of the 1/200 Trumpeter Titanic. Good luck with your Victory, at least she has a happier story to tell than the model of the ship I'm building... Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I will photograph in detail each stage of the construction, at the risk of becoming annoying, and the topic will become many pages. I think this ship deserves it. I did not order the decks ready-made - I will make them myself from pear. I will show the technology in detail. Greetings! 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
europapete Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 Thank you, am looking forward to every step. Regards, Pete in RI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 On 26/08/2020 at 07:31, Moarein said: Next step - painting. First inside - tile red - a mixture of 3 types of paint. Outside - a thin layer of the main "yellow" color. Looking forward to how you reproduce the balusters and scrolling on the stern, When I found the stern on my Victory had a bad molding I wrote to Heller to get another. Following with interest. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 Gun port covers - ready. They are numbered, so I know who's where, that's a big horror. The hinges are photoeched. I glued 0.5 mm maple veneer on the inside. In principle, they are installed last - even after the sails, because they stick out during the manipulations. As they are numbered, they go to the closet to wait in line. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafi Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) Coming along very nicely 🙂 And you are right, if a side entry port is added, then on both sides. All the best, DAniel Edited September 9, 2020 by dafi 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Looking good I know how fiddley they can be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted September 14, 2020 Author Share Posted September 14, 2020 Тhe side galleries are ready 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman 29 Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 Great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 Brilliant Nice job Haven't seen that molding before where did you get it from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
europapete Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 Hi Jim, I was about to ask the same question. I did find some 3D printed ones on Shapeways, they look really good. Go on the website and put HMS Victory 1/100 into the search box. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted October 5, 2020 Author Share Posted October 5, 2020 Work on the building continues: - I cut out the ornaments on the nose, as I will replace them with 3D ones - masking, and spraying until fainting - painting of the stern coat of arms: 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 Hugely impressive Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman 29 Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 Nice job! 😜 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bates Posted October 8, 2020 Share Posted October 8, 2020 Brilliant the 3D printing parts really make the difference nice painting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Cover the body with 0.2 mm thick copper foil https://scontent.fsof8-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/121958135_10218131624990998_8084466429259286001_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_sid=e007fa&_nc_ohc=lE3VPv4drlkAX8OueAM&_nc_ht=scontent.fsof8-1.fna&oh=b5404f5f6d37abba912d2bc1ca783b31&oe=5FB1702C 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Please someone who knows more about this ship - let him explain - should the rivets on the copper plating be imitated? I think that on a scale of 1/100 they will be too small (about 0.1 mm) and in reality they will hardly be visible. I am also interested in the real ship, whether the rivets on the copper plating were as pronounced as in the ships of a later period. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
europapete Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Hiya, I feel that reproducing the nail heads may be unneccessary. Copper nail heads on copper sheets at this scale after weathering will be virtually invisible. A very light going over with a fine tooth pounce wheel will provide an indication of them. I am probably going to do mine as a waterline on a sea base, which will avoid most of that issue, lol. BTW, where did you get the parts for the figurehead and stern decorations? I bought some stern balustrades from Shapeways, but they are a bit on the small side and don't fit as well as yours. Regards, Pete in RI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moarein Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 40 minutes ago, europapete said: Hiya, I feel that reproducing the nail heads may be unneccessary. Copper nail heads on copper sheets at this scale after weathering will be virtually invisible. A very light going over with a fine tooth pounce wheel will provide an indication of them. I am probably going to do mine as a waterline on a sea base, which will avoid most of that issue, lol. BTW, where did you get the parts for the figurehead and stern decorations? I bought some stern balustrades from Shapeways, but they are a bit on the small side and don't fit as well as yours. Regards, Pete in RI Hello, I took my balustrades from here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/PP36PZ3MR/1-100-heller-9-6-hms-victory-stern-gallery I have the same opinion about rivets, but I still think of imitating them with something sharp. I will show when I'm ready Thanks. PS And what is your opinion about the copper cladding line? The anatomy shows how the bearings of the copper plating are slightly higher. In this case, Heller's model does not provide this possibility - if I raise the copper a little, it will cover the boards at the nose and I will have "copper" boards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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