Mottled camouflage

[Faraway]

I’m currently building a Henschel HS129, and have turned my mind to the final camouflage finish. I am considering a mottle camo, but have never done this before.

Can anyone give me some guidance as to the best way to go about it.

I will be most grateful for any help.

Jon

[Kev The Modeller]

Have a look here Here Paul has done a whole series of how to's and Here  should set you on your way.

[Ray_W]

Hi Jon,

 

I use my smaller double action Iwata, the HP-B Plus, tip size 0.2 mm with a mix I thin that works at 10-15 psi. Some people run lower pressures and get up real close but this is what seems to work for me. The paint mix is thinned with more thinner than paint, but it varies between paints so it is hard to give guidance with so many variables. I mix in the cup and see what works. Thinner first then add paint. Funny to say though, the more mottle camo you paint the less important are the ratios and pressures because I think you get better at trigger control and distance to surface.  However, a little practice before each job I still find mandatory, just on a convenient scrap of paper, to get that hand eye co-ordination going.

 

Here are some tips that work for me that I do not normally see.

 

1. I always have a post-it label or some low tack tape or paper taped on the model close to the area I wish to spray. I can then practice right at the area your working. You can then get your technique right between spots if need be, without having to move too far to get the job done. I'll often go back to this small test area through the job. I find this also handy for exhaust staining and other airbrush work where some finesse may be needed.   

 

2. Sometimes going from one mottle spot to the next mottle spot you will get a spit from the airbrush when starting the next spot. I have tried different pressures, mix ratios and ensuring the airbrush is set-up correct (and it is an Iwata) to little avail and then discovered a technique issue solved the problem. Instead of just releasing the trigger between "spots" ensure the paint is closed first followed by the air (it's a double action airbrush). End of problem.

 

3. I always have a Q-Tip with appropriate thinner and regularly clean the tip. I find this mandatory for paints that might have an issue with tip drying but now just do it as matter of course every so often irrespective of paint used.

 

4. You can get great mottle finishes irrespective of the airbrush. All my earlier ones were done on my larger Iwata HP-C before I bought the HP-B. Just a little practice with paint mix ratio, pressure and more importantly eye-hand co-ordination. 

 

5. If you make a mistake then the airbrush is your friend, you can always go back with the base colour and patch and redo in areas necessary. If too many disasters back to experimenting and practice and go again.

 

With a little practice, suddenly you will find it not a problem and wonder why mottle camouflage ever worried you. 

 

Ray

[Faraway]

1 hour ago, Ray_W said:

 

2. Sometimes going from one mottle spot to the next mottle spot you will get a spit from the airbrush when starting the next spot. I have tried different pressures, mix ratios and ensuring the airbrush is set-up correct (and it is an Iwata) to little avail and then discovered a technique issue solved the problem. Instead of just releasing the trigger between "spots" ensure the paint is closed first followed by the air (it's a double action airbrush). End of problem.

I discovered this as well, a few days ago, it does work well.

Very many thanks for all this information, I’ve only got a 0.4 needle/nozzle at the moment, but am trying to find a 0.2 set.

I’m going to be practicing a bit before I start, nice to have a challenge.

Jon

[PattheCat]

For my latest build, a tropicalized Bf-109, I tried freehand airbrushing but also got spits between spots. So I decided to give paper masks a try. Note: it was for a scheme with well defined spots (see image below).

I scanned the colour profile with the kit's instructions, resized it and cut out the spot locations with a rotative blade cutter. I used heavier (100gr) than standard grade paper. I proceded with repeated light passes with the airbrush, so as not to soak the paper or have paint running under it..

To achieve less defined spots, just use less paint passes and maybe putting blobs of blu-tac between the paper and the surface to paint could help to have less neat edges.

 

Good luck and have fun.

 

 

Edited May 11, 2020 by PattheCat

[Faraway]

8 hours ago, PattheCat said:

For my latest build, a tropicalized Bf-109, I tried freehand airbrushing but also got spits between spots. So I decided to give paper masks a try. Note: it was for a scheme with well defined spots (see image below).

I scanned the colour profile with the kit's instructions, resized it and cut out the spot locations with a rotative blade cutter. I used heavier (100gr) than standard grade paper. I proceded with repeated light passes with the airbrush, so as not to soak the paper or have paint running under it..

To achieve less defined spots, just use less paint passes and maybe putting blobs of blu-tac between the paper and the surface to paint could help to have less neat edges.

PattheCat.

That looks like a real possibility, I’ve tried free hand on spare plastic and I also got a bit of spitting and sometimes spidering. Your solution is one I am going to try.

Many thanks, I’ll let you know how I get on.

Jon

[Biggles87]

I’ve used the technique described above and it’s worked for me, you just have to remember to spray at 90deg to the mask.

 

John

[Faraway]

1 hour ago, Biggles87 said:

I’ve used the technique described above and it’s worked for me, you just have to remember to spray at 90deg to the mask.

 

John

John.

Thanks for the tip, I'll be making some stencils today.

 

Jon

[PattheCat]

3 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

I’ve used the technique described above and it’s worked for me, you just have to remember to spray at 90deg to the mask.

 

John

My thanks too, John. Now I know why I had to repaint the front of the fuselage.

Also, I'd say to use light coats to build up the spots "to taste" and not to spray too close. Also beware of the paint thickness, too thin and it will run behind the stencil, you'd better do some tests beforehand to find what suits you (with a 0.4 needle, 15 psi and 40 % thinner worked best for me).

 

Pat.

[Faraway]

Well, I did it. I didn't use the stencils I'd made in the end, I was struggling to get them to really conform with the surfaces. So after much practice, I did the aircraft free hand.

I think, for a first ever try at mottled camo, it came out alright.

Thanks for all your advice, I'm not sure I'll try it again too soon.

Jon.

 

[PattheCat]

Wow, it came out real nice! Congrats.

Sorry I had you waste your time with the paper masks. Did you try it with blu-tac?

[Faraway]

1 hour ago, PattheCat said:

Wow, it came out real nice! Congrats.

Sorry I had you waste your time with the paper masks. Did you try it with blu-tac?

I did try blu-tac, but wasn’t happy with the way the paper masks conformed to the surfaces.
No way did you waste my time, I was really happy with the suggestion.

Very many thanks for the advice.

Jon.

[Walter]

On 08/05/2020 at 20:05, Ray_W said:

Hi Jon,

 

I use my smaller double action Iwata, the HP-B Plus, tip size 0.2 mm with a mix I thin that works at 10-15 psi. Some people run lower pressures and get up real close but this is what seems to work for me. The paint mix is thinned with more thinner than paint, but it varies between paints so it is hard to give guidance with so many variables. I mix in the cup and see what works. Thinner first then add paint. Funny to say though, the more mottle camo you paint the less important are the ratios and pressures because I think you get better at trigger control and distance to surface.  However, a little practice before each job I still find mandatory, just on a convenient scrap of paper, to get that hand eye co-ordination going.

 

Here are some tips that work for me that I do not normally see.

 

1. I always have a post-it label or some low tack tape or paper taped on the model close to the area I wish to spray. I can then practice right at the area your working. You can then get your technique right between spots if need be, without having to move too far to get the job done. I'll often go back to this small test area through the job. I find this also handy for exhaust staining and other airbrush work where some finesse may be needed.   

 

2. Sometimes going from one mottle spot to the next mottle spot you will get a spit from the airbrush when starting the next spot. I have tried different pressures, mix ratios and ensuring the airbrush is set-up correct (and it is an Iwata) to little avail and then discovered a technique issue solved the problem. Instead of just releasing the trigger between "spots" ensure the paint is closed first followed by the air (it's a double action airbrush). End of problem.

 

3. I always have a Q-Tip with appropriate thinner and regularly clean the tip. I find this mandatory for paints that might have an issue with tip drying but now just do it as matter of course every so often irrespective of paint used.

 

4. You can get great mottle finishes irrespective of the airbrush. All my earlier ones were done on my larger Iwata HP-C before I bought the HP-B. Just a little practice with paint mix ratio, pressure and more importantly eye-hand co-ordination. 

 

5. If you make a mistake then the airbrush is your friend, you can always go back with the base colour and patch and redo in areas necessary. If too many disasters back to experimenting and practice and go again.

 

With a little practice, suddenly you will find it not a problem and wonder why mottle camouflage ever worried you. 

 

Ray

Thanks really good advice