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After Journey's End - RAAF 451 Squadron Mk XIV ***FINISHED***


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Hi Ray,

 

Thank you for that.

 

I had seen this video before and watched it a couple of times... but I just watched the whole thing through again, in case I had missed anything, particularly in light of my recent experience with pre-shading.

 

First of all, I think if we were considering black basing v pre-shading and just leaving it at that, then I would concur. Pre-shading on its own wouldnt give me the results I am looking for... but I am not sure anyone just does pre-shading any longer... not as stark a version of pre-shading that is shown in this particular video.

 

For example, in my first model aircraft I built after years on the 'dark side' modelling ships (only a few weeks ago!), I painted the base colour, then marbled it in white, then pre-shaded the panel lines and then did a thin 'blend' coat with the original base colour again. This left me with both panel lines (much as the example here) and also with the variations across the panels due to the marble coat.

 

I quite like how it ends up... and a white marble coat (along with a light green marble on a dark green base with a very fine blend coat of dark green, deliberately thin and variable) gives me a result that currently I like. Especially when I have a deliberate wide and vague pre-shade on major panel lines... I have taken to lightening full panels between the pre-shades too, to increase contrast in the base colour, so some panels are considerably lighter where they are more prone to fade, wears panels that are less subject to fade, but will weather in other ways, I leave just with plain marble coats and a blend coat.

 

For example:

 

spacer.png

 

This was the end of a wing in the current build which was first painted in the base colour, Ocean Grey, with NO pre-shading od any other painting technique. Simply painted as a full covering coat in the finished colour. I then did a marble coat in white, then I pre-shaded the lines I wanted in black (On the undersides, with a sky base colour, I used a dark brown to pre-shade, again over white marble).

 

I then painted a deliberately thin Ocean grey, and then painted the green... again after a fresh marble coat a supplementary pre-cshade as the grey wiped out a lot of the preside that was then going to be covered with a green base coat), and finished thin green coat. 

 

I ended up with this... (well, not quite ended up... I still have to weather and matt this finish, which will change things a lot!)

 

spacer.png

 

 

I think this looks very similar to black basing, but with some advantages that I actually like... so I am still unconvinced about black basing and certainly unconvinced on the negatives of pre-shading (unless of course, it is  carried out with the methods described in the video. I think he over-simplifies the argument). 

 

Perhaps we both agree, as do a number of others on here, that the most important element in the current fashion for airbrush painting is the marble coat. And I think if that is the case, then both ,methods are actually, in result anyway, very similar.

 

Anyway... its an interesting discussion and I am looking forward to your next post with your second colour painted on... I definitely see where you are going with this and it looks really good... so I will still think about this and maybe try black basing as there may be huge advantages that I dont quite see in photo's and videos... I know for example, that my model in real life, looks far better in terms of the subtle and yet somehow, at the same time, the clear variation in colour, tone and appearance across the model than it does in photos... 

 

(Weirdly, the smaller you view these pictures, the more obvious are the paint effects...).

 

But as I said, I am still learning and I am only two models in, so I cant really claim any particular knowledge... but am full of annoying questions!

 

Anyway... an interesting discussion and thanks for posting the video. 

 

What keeps drawing me to black basing though, is as a primer coat, it just looks so damned cool!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Bill Livingston
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13 hours ago, Bill Livingston said:

I think this looks very similar to black basing, but with some advantages that I actually like... so I am still unconvinced about black basing and certainly unconvinced on the negatives of pre-shading (unless of course, it is  carried out with the methods described in the video. I think he over-simplifies the argument). 

Hi Bill,

 

Really nice panel pre-shading you have achieved. Nice effect. Perfectly executed.

 

I like working off a black undercoat. The effects are subtle. To my eye, when I moved away from the pre-shading panel lines as the norm (I still do so where appropriate) and started on more variation of base coat and tonal variation, I started to achieve a level of realism in the finish I had not seen before. I think my recent Ju-87 builds are good examples. How do you breathe realistic life into RLM 70/71 camo? This is black based, no panel line shading and I was very happy with the outcome.

 

Stuka_Italeri_Construction_116

 

 

Stuka_Italeri_Construction_117

 

We like to hang a name off something, for example that real can of worms "The Spanish School". Black Basing sounds much more dramatic than "I prefer a black undercoat and like using small random airbrush strokes leaving more or less black where appropriate and not losing this with a top coat". In reality, you pick and choose what works for you. Just another suite of techniques in the tool box.. In the end, it's a personal preference thing. It does use significantly less paint. 

 

My challenge and enjoyment is looking at a photo of the aircraft I'm modelling and trying to replicate it. I still have a long way to go.

 

Ray

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Did a sausage (Faber-Castell equivalent for Blu-tac) and tape camo mask. Not pretty, but ….

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_66

 

Got what I wanted ….

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_65

 

I really like those AK paints

 

And now with some yellow leading edge stripes. This picture was taken at night and the lighting has made the green lighter and more olive and also lightened the ocean grey.. 

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_67

 

Just on those yellow ID strips. I am always hunting for the true dimensions. Here on BM I remember someone publishing a memo from the war determining that the width was to be 4" being 2" above and below the leading edge centreline. Total width in 1/48 is only 2.1 mm. Not much. So I was pleased to find this photograph a XIV with a narrow leading edge yellow strip that would be more like what 4" should look like. Good enough for me so I made them this width.

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_68

 

 

 

 

Ray

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1 hour ago, Cookenbacher said:

Beautiful.

Thanks Cookie, all hangs off how well that gloss coat goes down. Ray

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Decisions, decisions which gloss coat to use with AK Real Color ….

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_69

 

All four on the left go down brilliantly with Mr Color Levelling Thinner - fairly aggressive stuff but lovely finish. X22 and H101 can use the standard Tamiya Gunze ethanol  based thinner - I have the Mr Hobby Color thinner - less aggressive - but still seem to work even better with Mr Color Levelling Thinner . Gauzy Intermediate straight out of the bottle and we all know Future.

 

GX112 or GX100 are my preferred gloss coats for thin, hard covering with no pebbling. Heaven forbid, it might be a first where I have to do a test and not use the current model as its own paint mule. Only have to test GX112, if it works nothing changes. 

 

Ray

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4 hours ago, Ray_W said:

Decisions, decisions which gloss coat to use with AK Real Color ….

Well, I can't help as this is all new/education to me, but I look forward to finding out! :D

 

Good luck!

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I did my test with GX112 with Mr Color Levelling Thinners on my usual paint mule - the current project. I chose a wing tip and did this on purpose because I was interested in any variation in the colour as applied and whether the thinners would thin out the colour coats or worse. Also, just a wing tip, easy to repair. The following image shows the coated wing tip. Note the Mr Masking Sol makes the port wing tip light appear green.
 

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_71

 

The GX112 coated ocean grey and dark green appears darker although this is related to the photography. By eye it is very difficult to pick any difference and, in fact, the lighter ocean grey does not appear as white as it seems in the photo. Bottom line - no reaction, covered beautifully. Good to go 👍

 

Note that I did allow 36 to 48 hours after application of the AK Real Colour. I think this is a worthwhile discipline irrespective.

 

After application, and as another precaution, I used a hair dryer. I have a cheap one of my own - don't raid the family - I use it all the time. It's dedicated to modelling. Not enough hair to put it to use for any other purpose. Set at a low temperature and air volume, I used it to accelerate the thinners, just a little, out of the coating (10 seconds only). This is to ensure the thinners do not start eating into the base colours. I spray a whole side - lower side first, quick hair dryer job, put it aside for 15 minutes, then top side, hair dryer job and put it aside, done. I wear a glove on my non-spraying hand and rest the model gently on my hand. Don't squeeze. It's still tender but nicely touch dry. I shot it at 20 psi out of my Iwata HP-CS 0.35 mm needle. I don't measure the ratio instead spray and test and adjust if need be but it would equate to 80% or more thinners. Light coats, not dry, not flood and still definitely wet onto the surface. I really watch for this to ensure no orange peel.

 

The results were what was to be expected from GX112 - super thin, tough, nice gloss. It is not the heavy, almost glutinous, gloss coats of some other products and I like that. It preserves, I think, a more realistic surface finish and will still take the decals without silvering.

 

Here's a few pictures, very difficult to capture the gloss level. A lot of the subtle reflections disappear so it looks more satin in these. Not the case. 

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_73

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_76

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_75

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_72

 

One of my favourite stages to reach. Gloss coat on successfully protecting that colour underneath. 

 

Onto the decals, let's see how they and myself perform.

 

Ray

 

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Thanks Ray, a really useful post! I'm going to have to start collecting your posts - have you considered writing a book? Your explanations are very well written and clear. My only gripe is that you make it look too easy* :D. Your third pic down, the wingtip, shows how smooth the finish is, the Spit looks gorgeous as it is!

 

Good luck with the decals, looking forward to seeing the results.

 

Cheers,

 

 

* I suspect its not

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6 minutes ago, Johnson said:

Thanks Ray, a really useful post! I'm going to have to start collecting your posts - have you considered writing a book? Your explanations are very well written and clear. My only gripe is that you make it look too easy* :D. Your third pic down, the wingtip, shows how smooth the finish is, the Spit looks gorgeous as it is!

 

Good luck with the decals, looking forward to seeing the results.

 

Cheers,

 

 

* I suspect its not

Thanks Charlie,

 

It's a gorgeous aircraft and a fun build and Airfix has done a great job.

 

Decals - too many variables - another love/hate relationship. I'll be using the Airfix OOB decals for stencilling and roundels. They provide the correct upper wing C1 roundels. Xtradecal for the squadron code and serial numbers. Finally, long after the I post the finish pictures and I get this build back to Australia, I'll use Red Roo to get the 451 Squadron motif on the port side that Xtradecal did not include.

 

We'll see how it goes.

Ray

 

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I've found the recent (last few years) Airfix decals to be really excellent, probably the best around. Thin yet not so thin to make placement impossible (Techmod have that accolade), perfectly registered with almost no visible carrier film. Respond well and predictably to Microsol, though they don't really need it.

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What an enjoyable decaling session. You have to get one sooner or later. Airfix roundels and stencilling and Xtradecal squadron codes and serial numbers. Those big C1 roundels certainly scream out "I'm British!". I will be toning them down a touch.

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_77

 

I used two water temperatures. The Xtradecals are beautifully thin and performed well with the old fashioned "luke warm". The Airfix decals are considerably thicker so I used water that was somewhere between warm to hot. Seemed to be the right decision.

 

I put down a little Mr Mark Setter first. I like this product as I have mentioned before. It really helped with the very thin Xtradecals. It allowed me some time to move them around. Without it I think it would be a case of get it right first time, or else. In my case, it is always the "or else".

 

Once the decal was down. I brushed the top with a little more Setter, let it rest for 5 minutes and wipe it off with a soft, wide brush.  After allowing the decal to dry a little, about 5 - 10 minutes, I checked how the sucking down of the decal was proceeding. If unhappy I applied some Mr Mark Softer to capture that rivet detail and left it alone.  

 

I can't complain about the result. Even sucked the wing walk decal line into the rivet detail.   Minimal carrier film - nice! 

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_80

 

Good one Airfix and this is before another gloss coat to encapsulate, some toning down of the marking and satin or flat final coat.

 

Typical of a squadrons that were part of the Occupation Forces the Sky fuselage band was painted out. The picture of NI-K shows a darker colour band, it seems significantly darker than the Medium Sea Grey and Ocean Grey and something like Dark Green so I went with the Dark Green.

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_79

 

I'll let those decals dry, wait for some good daylight to check the surface and clean up and then another coat of GX112 to encapsulate the decals. A little bit of enamel wash and oils. Fit a few bits and pieces and another Spitfire is done. Hopefully some time on the weekend the next post will be "FINISHED".

 

Ray

 

 

Edited by Ray_W
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  • Ray_W changed the title to After Journey's End - RAAF 451 Squadron Mk XIV ***FINISHED***

I'm calling it done. For the GB anyway. I still need to add that very thin fuselage whip aerial that is so hard to see in photos (never get that back in hand carry, IFF aerial and pitot is difficult enough) and Xtradecal did not provide the 451 Squadron motif to go on the ports side. Both can be added when I get back to Australia.

 

What an enjoyable build. The Airfix Mk XIV is a wonderful kit. Captures the look so well. A little bit of pre-planning and it can be built without filler.

 

Thanks again for every one's participation and the host's active support.

 

Here some pictures before I take a few for the gallery:

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_81b

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_87

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_83

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_88

 

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_86

 

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_89

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_84

 

Onto matters Mk Vc.

 

Ray

 

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Really superb build Ray.

 

1 hour ago, Ray_W said:

What an enjoyable build. The Airfix Mk XIV is a wonderful kit. Captures the look so well. A little bit of pre-planning and it can be built without filler.

I'll be referring back to your thread when I (eventually :unsure:!) get round to mine.

 

Cheers,

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3 hours ago, Steve 1602 said:

Superb Ray! This has been another great thread to watch with lots of top tips along the way. I love the finish you have achieved with this kit. 
 

Looking forwards to your Vc build!

 

Steve

Steve, Thanks very much. It was just a really nice kit to build. First time I used AK Real Color and they will be competition for my preferred Gunze. Beautiful to spray using their recommended thinner and yes you can mix with Tamiya and Gunze acrylics for some colour variation. The Vc will be significantly more weathered. Shame they don't make a RAAF Forest Green. I might have to do a little mixing.  Should be fun!

Ray

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1 hour ago, Johnson said:

Really superb build Ray.

 

I'll be referring back to your thread when I (eventually :unsure:!) get round to mine.

 

Cheers,

Charlie, 

Thank you, you'll have to get into it. Really pleasurable kit to build. No stress in the whole build. Loved it.

Ray 

 

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Just thought I would add this pic from my RAAF subject Spitfire STGB. Two down, one to go ….

 

Spitfire_XIV_Construction_90

 

 

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1 hour ago, Ray_W said:

Steve, Thanks very much. It was just a really nice kit to build. First time I used AK Real Color and they will be competition for my preferred Gunze. Beautiful to spray using their recommended thinner and yes you can mix with Tamiya and Gunze acrylics for some colour variation. The Vc will be significantly more weathered. Shame they don't make a RAAF Forest Green. I might have to do a little mixing.  Should be fun!

Ray

Don’t tempt me with new paints Ray... I’ve only just transitioned across to Vallejo! 😆
 

 

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A flawless XIV, absolutely brilliant paint finish.

Those streaks on the bottom looks very convincing too!

 

Wait what?

AK real colors are Tamiya/Gunze compatible?!?

And here I though they were more to the MrPaint formula with laquer and not the more friendly tamiya-mix.

 

I was just trying to convert to Mission Models....

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1 hour ago, Christer A said:

A flawless XIV, absolutely brilliant paint finish.

Those streaks on the bottom looks very convincing too!

 

Wait what?

AK real colors are Tamiya/Gunze compatible?!?

And here I though they were more to the MrPaint formula with laquer and not the more friendly tamiya-mix.

 

I was just trying to convert to Mission Models....

Thanks Christer,

 

You can't go wrong with Mission Models. I was forced into AK Real Color because I had no option and I am impressed. AK do not wash out in water but like Mr Color Levelling Thinner works extremely well with the Gunze/Tamiya aqueous ranges, so too does AK mix with the Gunze/Tamiya aqueous ranges. AK claim it on their website and it worked for me.

 

Remember that the term "acrylic" refers to a polymer binder in a paint. Paint being pigment, binder and solvent. It is not "washes out in water" although many still think that way. It may wash out in water, or it might use a more aggressive solvent, alcohol based, or even more aggressive solvent like some automotive "acrylics". I think it's a matter of where it falls on the spectrum. And then you have the "drying" process like chemical bonding in enamels or evaporation of the solvent as in a lacquer and then latex's which do not use latex but are acrylic but must wash out in water. Paint compatibility, with the huge number of modern day concoctions, as you know, is a minefield. This appears to be one case where Tamiya acrylics and Gunze Mr Aqueous Hobby Color work. Time will tell.

 

Ray

 

 

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Stunning!

 

There is no other word for it...

 

I know I need to improve the quality of my paint finishing, now... And you remain focussed all the way through the build and it shows... another thing I need to learn. 

 

The construction process was a revelation, but then your airbrushing skills over the last page or so added even more to what has turned into a thread that can benefit any modeller wanting to improve his skills.

 

Congratulations... 

 

 

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