Weathering help for a beginner

[HarryBarclay]

Hello.

 

First, an apology of sorts – it may be that this info is elsewhere on the forum, but even having had a good look around I've been totally unable to make head or tail of the process so sorry if I'm asking someone to repeat it… 

 

The lockdown has resulted in my recent return to modelling after a 2.5 decade hiatus, and I have to say I am loving it. A bit rusty but there you go!

 

I would be really grateful for some tips on weathering / shading – specifically using washes and powders. I have painted my model in matt Humbrol enamels (I think in hindsight / having done a bit of research, perhaps not the best approach, but we are where we are!) and would like to pick out the panel lines a bit, and maybe add some exhaust / gun smoke residue / mud etc. 

 

I think I understand that the process should go like this:

 

1.     Varnish with acrylic gloss clear (because I painted in enamel?);

2.     Apply enamel wash;

3.     Apply any powders or other weathering (e.g. chipping, exhast / gunsmoke stains, etc);

4.     Varnish with acrylic gloss clear again; and

5.     Then apply acrylic matt clear.

 

Is that right?

 

Assuming I've got that right: Should I buy model cote for the varnish (in gloss and matt)? I've read some nasty things about what varnish can do to paint / decals. Any tips (including any specific manufacturers) would, again, be enormously appreciated. 

 

Sorry for asking such dumb questions. I'm just a tiny bit (actually, a lot) confused. 

 

(In case anyone's interested, I've picked as my victim for this first build in over 25 years the Revell 1/32 Spitfire Mk.IIa. Like the paints, perhaps not the best choice to start with but again, we are where we are!)

 

Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

HB

Edited May 2, 2020 by HarryBarclay

[HarryBarclay]

Thought I might try giving this a little bump... any help appreciated!!

[ExiledFish]

I was just searching around to ask basically the exact same question. What are the chances? I did read somewhere that acrylic varnish on top of enamel is a nasty combo, but then I've also seen that contradicted so I too would be very grateful for some pointers.

 

 

(The enamel/acrylic business causes me no end of confusion. Some places say spirit-based filters or oil dot filters like a matt surface, then a wash likes a gloss surface, and some pigments use enamel fixers and some mud weathering effects are water-based and trying to figure out an order for it all while not causing your previous work to boil off and bubble... It all seems so seamless when I read WIP's elsewhere 🥴)

[HarryBarclay]

Well glad it's not just me being a bit dim! Hopefully someone will be along to help us in a bit...

[Stef N.]

Everyone will have their own way of doing things but here is my preferred way. This seems to be getting me better results lately. I am not a massive user of some of the weathering products so hopefully someone else will be along to give you a heads up on their use,

 

1.Primer. (On some paints this isn't essential but it helps point out flaws and mistakes.)

2.Paint.

3,Gloss clear to seal it all in.

4.Decals.

5,Satin cote to bring it all together and  more realistic.

6. Stains, washes, filters.

7.Pin wash where necessary.

8.Hand paint tools.

9.Dusts using pastels/weathering powders.

10. Finish with a matt cote if you want. I don't as I like the mixture of satins and matts.

 

I am not at expert level and there are far better modellers than me but these are the things I have picked up through a lot of trial and error. I use acrylics for the main painting, Tamiya, AK. Oils for washes/stains. Enamels for pin washes. Thinners made by modelling companies, Abteilung for example, are gentler and don't cause any problems with acrylics (unless you constantly go over the same area or a bit heavy handed.)

 

I hope some of this helps.

 

My apologies @HarryBarclay. One of the big rules of life is to read things fully and I didn't and missed the last sentence regarding what you are going to build. These tips are for how I paint military vehicles.  The first 4 are good for aircraft, number 7 probably move to pre second varnish stage.

 

Edited May 10, 2020 by Stef N.

[Harry Lime]

I had for years laboured under the misapprehension that you couldn't paint enamel over acrylic, but had this recently beaten out of me! There is a lot of confusion and downright mis-information out there, but here are some useful tips I have gleaned.

 

1. Does your paint still smell after a couple of days drying? If so it's not fully cured and might not take too well to being washed and wiped over with strong concentrations of thinners and things.

2. Once a paint is fully cured, you should be able to paint over it with whatever you like. i.e. enamel over acrylic, acrylic varnish over enamel paint etc. There may be the occasional instance where a bad reaction may occur though, so if in doubt do a test run if you're experimenting with something new.

3. Some washes are essentially highly thinned paint. With this in mind, an enamel wash over an enamel base paint might see the thinner in the wash affect (or worst case, completely ruin)  your paint. Conversely, this means you could save yourself a few quid and make your own washes if so inclined.

4. Powders stick best to a matt finish. They are also probably the most forgiving type of weathering medium, as they can be easily wiped off with a damp cloth or cotton bud.

5. Less is more. A slightly subjective point as this is a matter of taste, but don't over do it. Not every panel line needs a wash, not every panel needs to be pre and/or post shaded and not every rivet needs to be highlighted.

6. Study the real thing. This gives you and an idea of where the oil leaks from, the finish gets scuffed by boots or where the dust settles.

7. Experiment. Get a cheap 'paint mule', knock it together and use it as a testbed for new techniques. Alternatively, see that failed project that has gone horribly wrong and has been sitting on the shelf of doom for months/years that you've subconsciously decided you're never gonna finish? Ta-da, a painting and weathering test bed!

 

I don't use all my weathering techniques on every project, only what I feel is needed to achieve the finished look that I want for that particular project I'm working on at the time.

 

As to varnishes, you'll get as many recommendations as there are members! That said, I have a bottle of original Klear that I use and I also have Humbrol Gloss, Matt and Satin Cotes in my paint drawer. I thin the Cotes with Humbrol enamel thinners and they spray just fine for me without any issues. They also brush paint just as easily in smaller areas like cockpits etc.

 

Hope this has been of some use,

 

Mark.

Edited May 10, 2020 by Harry Lime
Varnishes

[ExiledFish]

I know I just added a “Yes me too” to the original post, but just wanted to say Thankyou and another Thankyou to Stef N and Harry Lime - it’s like being shown a clear path through all the fog. Superb info, really very helpful 😀

[Tzulscha]

Washes work best over a gloss surface while powders and pastels work best over a dull finish.