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Alfa Romeo 2300 Monza 1:12


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It's home and it's a kit ... a little different than Old Airfix Bentley. Moving parts, nuts, bolts, sheets ... just everything available and plenty of room for creativity. I was surprised by the precision of the parts, the moving parts, the shock absorbers, the worm gear ... well, the wheels are ... I'll really have to think about that ...

 

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So I started with the frame and the chassis parts

.... trifle ... abraded dividing planes and assembled springs with stirrups .... I curse the dividing planes ...

 

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... shock absorber components, all parts ground from the ejector tracks, black surfboard and metal pasdta from AK.
Advantages of the paste - the surface really looks like metal, a disadvantage ... every part needs to be polished and then the susceptibility to abrasion ...

 

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Lovely! Will be nice to see this one coming together. You're making good progress here.

 

I got myself the same kit when it was released. I also found wheels so so, and bought the replacement wheels from FPPM.

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Making great progress there Renek.

It's a lovely car and, as you say, there is plenty of scope for modelling fun in the box 👍

I built one earlier this year and really enjoyed it. Like Jorgen, I chose to purchase the wired wheels from Fernando Pinto, not cheap but they do make a huge difference to the finished model. It is also a huge time saver. I laced the spokes on my Italeri FIAT 806 and it took me 3 weeks of modelling time.

I would urge you not to use the screws to attach the bodywork to the chassis. This is done after paint in most modellers plans and the way the chassis has been designed makes it very likely that paint damage will occur. The body fits beautifully on the chassis. I just used a couple of dabs of epoxy.

 

Enjoy it. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your progress.

 

Atb, Steve.

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22 hours ago, Bengalensis said:

Lovely! Will be nice to see this one coming together. You're making good progress here.

 

I got myself the same kit when it was released. I also found wheels so so, and bought the replacement wheels from FPPM.

Thank you :)

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19 hours ago, triumphfan said:

Making great progress there Renek.

It's a lovely car and, as you say, there is plenty of scope for modelling fun in the box 👍

I built one earlier this year and really enjoyed it. Like Jorgen, I chose to purchase the wired wheels from Fernando Pinto, not cheap but they do make a huge difference to the finished model. It is also a huge time saver. I laced the spokes on my Italeri FIAT 806 and it took me 3 weeks of modelling time.

I would urge you not to use the screws to attach the bodywork to the chassis. This is done after paint in most modellers plans and the way the chassis has been designed makes it very likely that paint damage will occur. The body fits beautifully on the chassis. I just used a couple of dabs of epoxy.

 

Enjoy it. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your progress.

 

Atb, Steve.

Thank you Steve. Yes, the model master had to be a brilliant person. Everything fits exactly. I will only use the screws at the bottom rear and on the frame or suspension structure.
I was thinking about wheels and their strings ... The idea of laborious production is not a taste for her, and buying whells from someone who makes them for me has nothing to do with modeling. This is Alfa's first kit for a test and he will get the bikes from the kit :) Then he will see :)

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Today I finished cleaning all the parts of the chassis and sprayed dif gunn metal.  I used AK paste to dampen the grain of paint. Further cleaning and fitting of small parts and their assembly for testing.

 

 

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8 hours ago, PROPELLER said:

I agree...

Thanks both for the opinion.
I don't know ... According to the instructions, they are correct, the notch on the axle fits exactly into the protrusion on the spring. I was also interested in it, but I left it in this position. This is a test model that will be a preparation for the sharp. Paktedy I will solve everything with other details :)

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Today another test of modifying the production model. Radiator and tires. I used three layers of bronze mesh, turning the middle layer 45 degrees.

 

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I sprayed the engine and adjusted the spark plug cables. Finally, I made a new brass tube protector
I also tried to portray the leather of the seat

 

Needless to say, the cabling looks poor and I'll probably rebuild it

 

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Chassis and all components to ... well ... uh ... those slaving feathers.

Body pontoon preparation

I drilled all the indicated riveting and, conversely, blinded the holes of the anchor bolts to the frame

 

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I have been thinking for a long time about the form and way of connecting the body and the frame. An integral part are also locking square screws intertwined with wire throughout the car ...
The first on the wound was a mask ...
However, I came across the shortcomings of both the iron and model market.
The trial error form is a fairly expensive variant of testing. The first printed screws, although small and according to the drawing, would be suitable for Pocher.
Another try, resin 3D printing, the screws are half .... well IT'S IT !!

 

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On 5/15/2020 at 1:30 PM, Mr Mansfield said:

Love that grill. Are the leads supposed to stick up that much from the engine? It looks like it might be difficult to close the engine cover 

I don't like motor cables, I'll probably rework them ...

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Today I focused on the modification of chrome parts, especially the turnbuckles of the right lower hood flap. I understood from the instructions that the tensioners in the closed hood variant are glued to the lower rail of the body and are in a vertical position. However, the open hood requires them to be extended and tilted as is the case with a real car. It is beyond my capabilities to make a hinge about 1 mm, let alone be functional similar to the Bentley. So I decided to adjust the turnbuckles, drill 0.5mm holes in them and insert the pins that hold the turnbuckles only in the open position. It was also necessary to drill holes for their placement in the already finished part on the car ...

 

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6 hours ago, Renek said:

I don't like motor cables, I'll probably rework them ...

Renek - correct size vintage wires were between 7 and 8 mm on the car. In 1/12 they should be approximately .625 mm or .031". They were frequently colored  fabric and similar to these:

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On 5/17/2020 at 8:44 PM, Codger said:

Renek - correct size vintage wires were between 7 and 8 mm on the car. In 1/12 they should be approximately .625 mm or .031". They were frequently colored  fabric and similar to these:

 

Thanks a lot for the valuable advice and especially the interest.
My original idea was to use parts exclusively from the contents of the kit. So I used one of the two variants that are on offer.
Well, I'm more and more inclined to further modifications, including cabling ...

 

Body with all holes for screws and rivets, on the contrary the original for screws blinded. I wrapped the exhaust in a rope protection and wondered if I would give an etched cover from the kit or if I would make something less sterile or if I would just add a layer of that rope - I personally like it the most ...

Then some details of the hoses from the string and the first spray of paint and primer.

I removed the indicated hood hinges and replaced it with a hinge made of a brass tube.

 

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