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T-33 T-bird GWH 1/48 Dayglo scheme


Rob K.
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Hi everyone,

 

My next project will be a GWH 1/48 T-33 in a scheme similar to below image. 

 

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The plan is to practice the faded dayglo look, so this is the challenge.

 

The goal is to achieve similar effects to a posting here on britmodeller from a while back, although this will be a hard act to follow. I will give it a shot nonetheless. I am referring to this build: 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235050709-mrc-gallery-sikorsky-hh-34g-148-german-navy/&tab=comments#comment-3266318

 

I will be using the GWH kit. 

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The kit appears very detailed, but as far as aftermarket additions go, I have ordered some PE seat belts for the ejection seats (none present) and a publication with a decal sheet for the RNeAF scheme. Could not locate a DutchDecal sheet for a 1/48 T-33, so I am trying out below and hope they are of good quality. At least it appears to have some of the additional SB-side fuselage stencilling present on the Dutch machines. 

 

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Printed in the different scales, there should be a 1/48 decal sheet in the publication (fingers crossed, it's in the post):

 

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That's all for now.

 

Thanks for watching.

 

 

 

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I'll be watching this one with interest, I am especially interested in how you do the Day-glo.

 

I'm currently at the painting stage of a GWH late T-33A. It is a nice kit but it is easy to get the intakes upside down which throws everything out, guess how I know!

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4 hours ago, Silver Fox said:

I'll be watching this one with interest, I am especially interested in how you do the Day-glo.

 

I'm currently at the painting stage of a GWH late T-33A. It is a nice kit but it is easy to get the intakes upside down which throws everything out, guess how I know!

Hi SF,

 

Thanks for the heads up regarding the intakes. I plan to do the faded day-glo by first painting those sections white, followed by yellow and then an uneven sporadic coat of orange....... Well, at least that is the theory, we'll see how it goes....... Perhaps I will even have to do those sections prior to the Aluminium coat, to prevent the white/yellow masking border showing through. Hope the plan will work.

 

Thanks for the feedback!

 

 

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Does your kit have the addendum correcting the instructions in various areas, most importantly the flap attachment? Worth getting a copy if it doesn't.

 

Also, make sure the main wheels are fitted to the correct legs, in line with the instructions. They are weighted and the angle matters.

 

Enjoy the kit, it is fantastic 

Andy

Edited by Red Dot
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5 hours ago, Uncle Uncool said:

:analintruder: Noooiiiceee... pulling up a stool.

Rob, would you mind taking a piccy to the nose landing gear wheel hub provided with the kit, please? 

Thanks a lot, mate.

Cheers,

 

Unc2

Hi,

Just did some construction on the nose gear (and broke some parts in the process). The nose gear appears a little fragile. I made some repairs and reinforcements, but below is the construction. Hope this helps.

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Thanks for the feedback! 

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2 minutes ago, Red Dot said:

Does your kit have the addendum correcting the instructions in various areas, most importantly the flap attachment? Worth getting a copy if it doesn't.

 

Also, make sure the main wheels are fitted to the correct legs, in line with the instructions. They are weighted and the angle matters.

 

Enjoy the kit, it is fantastic 

Andy

Thanks Andy, Indeed, the addendum was included. I'll pay some extra attention to flaps and landing gear.Thanks for the feedback👍

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As long as you remember the addendum and follow the instructions too, it is a dream kit. Great fit and beautiful detail out the box 

 

Andy

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Hello Rob,

 

I use this simple technique for faded Dayglo-orange:

- first paint the area with matt white or yellow (with white added), depending on how faded result you wish

- paint those areas not exposed to sun with Dayglo paint using an airbrush

- then grind an orange coloured crayon against a grade 400 wet&dry paper (I have Swiss made "Caran d'ache" crayons and they are excellent for this)

- use a brush for applying the pigment (dust from the crayon)

- seal everything with a coat of gloss varnish

 

If you think that you applied too much crayon pigment on the surface, you can easily remove it with Bluetac (before the gloss coat is applied, that is)

 

HPH

 

Cheers,

Antti

 

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8 hours ago, Antti_K said:

Hello Rob,

 

I use this simple technique for faded Dayglo-orange:

- first paint the area with matt white or yellow (with white added), depending on how faded result you wish

- paint those areas not exposed to sun with Dayglo paint using an airbrush

- then grind an orange coloured crayon against a grade 400 wet&dry paper (I have Swiss made "Caran d'ache" crayons and they are excellent for this)

- use a brush for applying the pigment (dust from the crayon)

- seal everything with a coat of gloss varnish

 

If you think that you applied too much crayon pigment on the surface, you can easily remove it with Bluetac (before the gloss coat is applied, that is)

 

HPH

 

Cheers,

Antti

 

Thanks Antti, what is the day-glo paint you are using? Make/code?

 

Regards,

 

Rob

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Hello Rob,

 

I use Revell enamel, matt 25. It is jelly-like when you open the tin but mix it with good quality white spirit and you can easily paint it with a brush. Add more white spirit and it goes through the airbrush without problems.

Only a couple of weeks ago i tried Humbrol 208 and that was useless as the pigment was very weak. Go for the Revell paint in this case.

 

Cheers,

Antti

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I forgot to mention that the nose cone is too narrow when compared to the width of the joined fuselage. The best solution us to sand off the fuselage halves at the front end by about 0.5mm total to ensure that no filler is needed. Rescribing the panels on the nose was a pain

 

 

 

Andy

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30 minutes ago, Red Dot said:

I forgot to mention that the nose cone is too narrow when compared to the width of the joined fuselage. The best solution us to sand off the fuselage halves at the front end by about 0.5mm total to ensure that no filler is needed. Rescribing the panels on the nose was a pain

 

 

 

Andy

Thanks Andy, for the heads up concerning the nose cone. That is great looking T-33 you constructed by the way. Great scheme as well.

 

Rgds,

 

Rob

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Hello,

 

Did some work on the cockpit these past few days.

 

Tried to make the seats a little more appealing by adding seat-belts/harness (none included) and the yellow seat handles to either side. Seats are still not super but it will have to do. Found out too late that there were also decals for the side consoles present in the kit. Subsequently I painted everything instead on both sides of the tub. Will construct the cockpit tomorrow hopefully.

 

 

 

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Thanks for watching,

 

Rgds,

 

Rob

 

 

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Hi,

 

Thanks for the comments and advise so far.......really helpful.

 

Assembled the cockpit and filled the cone with some extra ballast. Hopefully I will be able to close up the fuselage today and then see what to do about the cone issue, which as was pointed out by Andy is indeed not a straightforward fit having done the dry-fit.

 

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Looking at the various reference photo's and material on the web, I am getting the impression that early T-33's seem to have an all black instrument dial panel and later versions a grey panel with black dials? Not sure if this is correct, but I went for the all black version. 

 

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That's all for now....

 

Rgds

 

Rob

 

 

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Another update:

 

Attached the fuselage halves together and tried to address the cone issue with a spacer ring. Not entirely sure if the thickness was even enough. Tried to save myself some work by minimising sanding and re scribing (which I will have to do now anyway...., but at least I can still vaguely see most of the detail still to work with) I guess it will all come out after the first coat of primer or worse once the metal finish is applied 🤔.

 

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If anything looks out of shape, please feel free to comment.......

 

 

 

 

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Think it is the wings next, or I may fill in the seem lines on the fuselage. Quite a bit of work to do there............

 

Thanks for watching

 

Rgds,

 

Rob

 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Red Dot said:

Nice idea Rob to an unusual situation

 

Andy

Thanks, if anyone attempts this method it is wise to put a small marking line on cone and fuselage prior to installment of the spacer ring so it will be easier to line up eventually. (I forgot to do this). With a thickness of 0.5 mm plastic card, there is a little bit of profile left on the fuselage for the nosecone, but still a little bit of play at the same time, so lining up still leaves room for misalignment if not careful.

 

Rgds

 

Rob

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