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Catalina PBY-5A - Airfix 1/72


CedB

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7 hours ago, CedB said:

Beautifully clear but it's shrunk back and not filled the frame, even though I was filled before it dried.

As far as I understand it you can layer Krystal klear and it will dry transparent. There’s a build in this months Airfix modelling world where this technique is used on a landing light.

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1 hour ago, Marklo said:

As far as I understand it you can layer Krystal klear and it will dry transparent. There’s a build in this months Airfix modelling world where this technique is used on a landing light.

The June issue?

 

Which build is that, as having read through the magazine I clearly (hmmm, sort of appropriate!) skimmed over that part!

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This transparency thing has been worrying me a lot as I would not want anyone to spoil their models on account of something I have been doing. As promised, I did one of the windows on my Belvedere build to see if I could duplicate the problem that @perdu experienced. The short answer is that I couldn't and my technique worked as initially advertised. Let's see what I did, step by step. 

 

Step one, I glued the transparency into place with liquid cement in the usual way. leaving the transparency slightly proud of the surface of the model.

 

Step two, I covered the exterior of the window with super glue, I use either Rocket or Zap-a-Gap, so could there be an issue with the brand of glue you are using Bill?

 

Step three, I sprayed the window with accelerator.

 

Step four, I ground, filed, sanded and polished the window back to clarity, finishing off with a polish with some Novus 1 polish and the polishing pad on my Dremel.

 

At no stage in this process did the transparency frost over.

 

Here are some pictures of the final result.

 

002.jpg

 

003.jpg

 

004.jpg

 

So other that the possibility of a different type of super goo, same kit, same glue.

 

Edit: It could be that the fact that I spray the model with accelerator immediately makes a difference and it doesn't give the glue time to attack the plastic. Against this, in the past I have forgotten to use accelerator when I have been called away from the model and there was still no frosting. I have used the technique on many different brands of kit without any issues so I doubt that it is the type of plastic that is the issue.

 

Stumped of Mars 👽

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49 minutes ago, Martian said:

 I have used the technique on many different brands of kit without any issues so I doubt that it is the type of plastic that is the issue.

 

Stumped of Mars 👽

I used CA blobs many times to replicate gauge glass on IPs.

No issues with frosting until I used the same technique on the IP of my WNW camel and it was an unmitigated disaster.

 

25650539928_a6ac0565f2.jpg

 

I have no idea why if fogged so badly on that occasion but I haven't retried the technique since.

I don't think it was due to CA brand as I tend to only use Roket.

 

Maybe I'll retry on something 'not too precious' and use accelerator this time but perhaps not a WNW. :D

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Interesting read about windows. I recently got some of the Rocket superglue and it doesn't fog (or smell) compared to other glues I've previously worked with so I think that could have something to do with it. I hate doing clear parts, the masking, the windows falling through later in the build and so on. I've tended to use maskol to fill the windows in the build to stop spray from getting in then at the end, remove the maskol and then fill with Krystal clear or similar. I have a CMR S23 to do at some point and the side windows have put me off, but reading Martians instructions, I think I'll follow that approach with the rocket glue, just need to get some accelerator. 

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10 hours ago, CedB said:

Krystal and ClearFix are both designed to be used in empty frames,

 

Ced, I have to admit that due to feeling a bit grotty these past few days I haven't been reading the thread as attentively as I should and you may have said the reason, but why then are you not just using KK or CF to make the windows? Curvature of the fuselage maybe?

 

Something I did on a Rugrat 1/72 Andover many years ago was to cut out the strip of window openings (can't recall why I didn't like them) in the fuselage and glued in strips of plastic cut from a CD case that stood proud of the outside of the fuselage - when dry I sanded these flush, polished them back and then masked each individual window. Tedious on an Andover but wouldn't be so bad on the Cat..

 

Apologies again if someone else has already mentioned that method, I promise to pay more attention in the future...!!  :)

 

Keith

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2 minutes ago, Martian said:

The trouble with Krystal Clear is that it cannot do curved surfaces.

 

 

Yeh I know Martian, hence why I wondered if the fuselage curvature was why Ced wasn't intending to use it - but then using it on top of a curved window that doesn't fit wouldn't work either would it? Wouldn't it just sit flat on top of it?

 

As I say I haven't been able to give the posts full attention, so I'll shut up now! :)

 

Keith

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4 hours ago, Whofan said:

The June issue?

I thought it was the May one. I get mine on Kindle, it has a hurricane in the front and I think the build is a 1/72  Mustang in Swedish colours. It’s mentioned near the end of the piece,

Edited by Marklo
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26 minutes ago, Marklo said:

I thought it was the May one. I get mine on Kindle, it has a hurricane in the front and I think the build is a 1/72  Mustang in Swedish colours. It’s mentioned near the rnd of the piece,

Thanks.

 

It is the June issue (no. 115) and I found the reference.

Edited by Whofan
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1 hour ago, Howlindawg said:

I used CA blobs many times to replicate gauge glass on IPs.

No issues with frosting until I used the same technique on the IP of my WNW camel and it was an unmitigated disaster.

 

25650539928_a6ac0565f2.jpg

 

I have no idea why if fogged so badly on that occasion but I haven't retried the technique since.

I don't think it was due to CA brand as I tend to only use Roket.

 

Maybe I'll retry on something 'not too precious' and use accelerator this time but perhaps not a WNW. :D

Try some gloss varnish on top of those instruments. If the frosting is just on the surface the varnish should clear it

36 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

 

Yeh I know Martian, hence why I wondered if the fuselage curvature was why Ced wasn't intending to use it - but then using it on top of a curved window that doesn't fit wouldn't work either would it? Wouldn't it just sit flat on top of it?

 

As I say I haven't been able to give the posts full attention, so I'll shut up now! :)

 

Keith

Don't shut up Keith. Without wanting to hi-jack Ced's thread in any way, I think it is important that we try and get to the bottom of this. I for one do not want to see Ced's or anyone else's builds messed up by something I have been recommending. The trouble is that I have never had a problem and am at a loss to explain the problems that @perdu experienced.

 

Martian 👽

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14 minutes ago, Martian said:

Try some gloss varnish on top of those instruments. If the frosting is just on the surface the varnish should clear it

That particular IP is long since redone with Micro Kristal Klear.

 

At the time I did wonder whether it could have had something to do with the depth of CA used.

Would thinner layers be less prone to frosting perhaps. 🤔

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Thanks for your help Martian

Which cyano doesn't seem to be part of the problem, most of which is probably ME.

 

I used Roket gel first time round on the door and starboard side windows and found that the gel was getting unusually gooey which meant that when I did the port side I used a generic cyano from Pound land instead

 

Both sides gave me the same effects with foggy mountain breakdown. :(  

 

I did not use an accelerator however because Gwyn (and I) found the very strong smell 'stuck' in the air of the room

 

Next time I will give it a go

 

Your version is looking very good, I take my thrice back, maybe just a single no. 😱

 

And the Martvedere is really looking nice inside

 

👍👍👍

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[Superglue subthread] When I tried it I used loctite glue and didn't use accelerator, so it dried overnight. I got solid frosting. I only have loctite and zap in the stash, so I will give those a try. Maybe, as the landlord of one of my old haunts would say, we should take this discussion elsewhere, like into the car park?

 

Regards,

Adrian

 

[edit - if only I had a scrap fuselage with plenty of window ope- 

BE973149-D0-C3-488-D-9-B76-9-C98-A8-FC02

Ah. I do! Let the experiments begin ( I will take the results off to my Hudson thread in the GB and let you good people enjoy Catalinas...]

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I cannot, obviously, speak for Ced Adrian but from my point of view this discussion got started here and it would benefit us all if it stayed here


We are all 'on topic' here after all but if you wish to move to the other thread will you pop back and let us know if you come to any conclusions please

 

(my logic here is that I and no doubt several others rarely get into the GB area, there's plenty to follow here alone as it is)

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Dear All

Firstly, please don't worry about discussing anything (within reason) in my threads - I like the sharing of experience and I always learn a lot :) 

 

Let's talk about windows… I've re-ordered the posts by subject (hope you don't mind) 

 

CA and sanding

15 hours ago, Martian said:

No problem Ced. I use accelerator on the glue and start the sanding and polishing after about five minutes.

 

Martian 👽

6 hours ago, Martian said:

This transparency thing has been worrying me a lot as I would not want anyone to spoil their models on account of something I have been doing. As promised, I did one of the windows on my Belvedere build to see if I could duplicate the problem that @perdu experienced. The short answer is that I couldn't and my technique worked as initially advertised. Let's see what I did, step by step. 

 

Step one, I glued the transparency into place with liquid cement in the usual way. leaving the transparency slightly proud of the surface of the model.

 

Step two, I covered the exterior of the window with super glue, I use either Rocket or Zap-a-Gap, so could there be an issue with the brand of glue you are using Bill?

 

Step three, I sprayed the window with accelerator.

 

Step four, I ground, filed, sanded and polished the window back to clarity, finishing off with a polish with some Novus 1 polish and the polishing pad on my Dremel.

 

At no stage in this process did the transparency frost over.

 

Here are some pictures of the final result.

[snip pics]

 

So other that the possibility of a different type of super goo, same kit, same glue.

 

Edit: It could be that the fact that I spray the model with accelerator immediately makes a difference and it doesn't give the glue time to attack the plastic. Against this, in the past I have forgotten to use accelerator when I have been called away from the model and there was still no frosting. I have used the technique on many different brands of kit without any issues so I doubt that it is the type of plastic that is the issue.

 

Stumped of Mars 👽

Thanks for the step-by-step Martian and please don't worry that the 'YMMV principle' is effecting others - if it works for you then I'm sure we can learn from it… it certainly worked on your Albatross didn't it?

 

I think you've probably got the answer there - the type of glue and the accelerator.

Let's assume that the extra cost of the 'modelling CAs' is because of the difference in quality/performance. There's also something (I guess) in the different 'thicknesses' of the glues and 'odourless'. 

It also occurred to me that, if the CA wasn't completely 'hard', then any sanding would rough up the surface? Presumably the accelerator would stop that.

 

Thanks again and certainly worth a try in the future (Adrian can experiment!)

 

2 hours ago, perdu said:

Thanks for your help Martian

Which cyano doesn't seem to be part of the problem, most of which is probably ME.

 

I used Roket gel first time round on the door and starboard side windows and found that the gel was getting unusually gooey which meant that when I did the port side I used a generic cyano from Pound land instead

 

Both sides gave me the same effects with foggy mountain breakdown. :(  

 

I did not use an accelerator however because Gwyn (and I) found the very strong smell 'stuck' in the air of the room

 

Next time I will give it a go

 

Your version is looking very good, I take my thrice back, maybe just a single no. 😱

 

And the Martvedere is really looking nice inside

 

👍👍👍

There you go Bill, we're agreeing again! :) 

 

4 hours ago, woody37 said:

Interesting read about windows. I recently got some of the Rocket superglue and it doesn't fog (or smell) compared to other glues I've previously worked with so I think that could have something to do with it. I hate doing clear parts, the masking, the windows falling through later in the build and so on. I've tended to use maskol to fill the windows in the build to stop spray from getting in then at the end, remove the maskol and then fill with Krystal clear or similar. I have a CMR S23 to do at some point and the side windows have put me off, but reading Martians instructions, I think I'll follow that approach with the rocket glue, just need to get some accelerator. 

57 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

[Superglue subthread] When I tried it I used loctite glue and didn't use accelerator, so it dried overnight. I got solid frosting. I only have loctite and zap in the stash, so I will give those a try. Maybe, as the landlord of one of my old haunts would say, we should take this discussion elsewhere, like into the car park?

 

Regards,

Adrian

 

[edit - if only I had a scrap fuselage with plenty of window ope- 

[snip pic]

Ah. I do! Let the experiments begin ( I will take the results off to my Hudson thread in the GB and let you good people enjoy Catalinas...]

Looking forward to the experiments Neil and Adrian, good men! :) 

Don't forget to share…

 

 

 

5 hours ago, Howlindawg said:

I used CA blobs many times to replicate gauge glass on IPs.

No issues with frosting until I used the same technique on the IP of my WNW camel and it was an unmitigated disaster.

[snip pic]

 

I have no idea why if fogged so badly on that occasion but I haven't retried the technique since.

I don't think it was due to CA brand as I tend to only use Roket.

 

Maybe I'll retry on something 'not too precious' and use accelerator this time but perhaps not a WNW. :D

3 hours ago, Martian said:

Try some gloss varnish on top of those instruments. If the frosting is just on the surface the varnish should clear it

Don't shut up Keith. Without wanting to hi-jack Ced's thread in any way, I think it is important that we try and get to the bottom of this. I for one do not want to see Ced's or anyone else's builds messed up by something I have been recommending. The trouble is that I have never had a problem and am at a loss to explain the problems that @perdu experienced.

 

Martian 👽

3 hours ago, Howlindawg said:

That particular IP is long since redone with Micro Kristal Klear.

 

At the time I did wonder whether it could have had something to do with the depth of CA used.

Would thinner layers be less prone to frosting perhaps. 🤔

I think the Kristal Klear is the safest way to go for i/ps eh? I'll certainly be using it if when I get around to my WNW Camel :) 

 

 

 

BluFixx

8 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

Never heard of BluFixx before, it looks useful.

 

John

Hi John :) 

I think it was one of the first UV-set glues on the market and, because it dries almost instantly under the UV light (supplied) and clear, I thought it would be a good solution for canopy glueing and blending. It isn't. It seems to work but the join is very fragile and I knocked off canopies a couple of times before I gave up on it for that. It's still good for filling clear areas though and making lights and stuff - just as well 'cos I fell for the 'starter pack' that included three refills!

 

 

Kristal Klear (got the spelling right this time)

8 hours ago, Marklo said:

As far as I understand it you can layer Krystal klear and it will dry transparent. There’s a build in this months Airfix modelling world where this technique is used on a landing light.

6 hours ago, Whofan said:

The June issue?

 

Which build is that, as having read through the magazine I clearly (hmmm, sort of appropriate!) skimmed over that part!

4 hours ago, Marklo said:

I thought it was the May one. I get mine on Kindle, it has a hurricane in the front and I think the build is a 1/72  Mustang in Swedish colours. It’s mentioned near the end of the piece,

4 hours ago, Whofan said:

Thanks.

 

It is the June issue (no. 115) and I found the reference.

It is good stuff and it does work in layers - sadly it didn't fill the bubbles…

 

That said, it did come off the window, with the ClearFix:

 

49885370398_44ecce0ef4_z.jpg

Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

…now filled with BluFixx :) 

 

4 hours ago, keefr22 said:

 

Ced, I have to admit that due to feeling a bit grotty these past few days I haven't been reading the thread as attentively as I should and you may have said the reason, but why then are you not just using KK or CF to make the windows? Curvature of the fuselage maybe?

 

Something I did on a Rugrat 1/72 Andover many years ago was to cut out the strip of window openings (can't recall why I didn't like them) in the fuselage and glued in strips of plastic cut from a CD case that stood proud of the outside of the fuselage - when dry I sanded these flush, polished them back and then masked each individual window. Tedious on an Andover but wouldn't be so bad on the Cat..

 

Apologies again if someone else has already mentioned that method, I promise to pay more attention in the future...!!  :)

 

Keith

4 hours ago, Martian said:

The trouble with Krystal Clear is that it cannot do curved surfaces.

 

Martian 👽

4 hours ago, keefr22 said:

 

Yeh I know Martian, hence why I wondered if the fuselage curvature was why Ced wasn't intending to use it - but then using it on top of a curved window that doesn't fit wouldn't work either would it? Wouldn't it just sit flat on top of it?

 

As I say I haven't been able to give the posts full attention, so I'll shut up now! :)

 

Keith

Hi Keith and thanks Martian :) 

Nothing so thoughtful as the curvature I'm afraid. I wanted to try the 'mask the windows before you join up to avoid popping the windows out' method and that kind of stuck in the front of my head so I just stubbornly stuck the windows in.

 

Martian's right about the curvature of course and there's also the problem of making sure that you run the stuff around the outer edge of the opening otherwise you get a recessed window again (ask me how I know).

 

I have saved some CD cases to try them for windows on a 'special' kit but I wouldn't hold your breath!

 

I hope you're feeling better soon Keith :) 

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Oops, sorry Bill, it took me ages to post that and I missed your post :) 

Totally agree though - please feel free to post here Adrian and we can keep it all together.

 

 

Some progress on the Cat.

 

I said I was going to fill the gaping holes in the 'float bays'. Me and my big mouth.

0.5mm sheet roughly cut:

 

49885889878_0e61be469d_z.jpg

 

Split in two as I want to represent the 'channel' for the closing mechanism:

 

49885993748_8dd624d654_z.jpg

 

and done:

 

49886146358_353d73ef81_z.jpg

 

The bits in the background were cut using these as templates for the other side.

I'll fill the gaps in when I decide what shape the opening should be (square I think) and how to mount the supports.

 

In case you think I'm a 'right first time by eye' modeller, I'm not.

It took ages.

With lots of mistakes:

 

49886665821_34042e1a77_z.jpg

 

I also started on the floats - these chunky supports need to go:

 

49886984467_079ae91513_z.jpg

 

49886990717_39871628fe_z.jpg

 

Note the Sharpie mark to make sure I don't fill the wrong holes.

Hopefully I can make something out of these:

 

49887031782_0e38360a21_z.jpg

 

…but I got bored with that so switched to the bubbles.

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Sorry Bill, did it again! Glad you're not bored though :D 

 

Are these any good?

 

49886254268_4fda51abbb_z.jpg

 

There was certainly lots of flash and getting them cleanly off the gates was nerve-racking!

I've cleaned them up and have a fiddle with them and see what to do.

I'm not convinced they're going to look right open… remember this?

 

aaipka2m4y401.jpg

 

That seems to show a bubble that splits half way across the top and has and open top bit.

Well the kit parts only open 'at the bottom', like (maybe) some of the other photos…

 

28-1.jpg

 

I shall ponder…

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23 minutes ago, CedB said:

I have saved some CD cases to try them for windows on a 'special' kit but I wouldn't hold your breath!

Ced,

 

what did you do with the CD's? used them as bird scarers?

 

Oh, the identity of the "special" kit?

 

Can't be "Special Hobby", too obvious. but given that a CD jewel case is between 1 - 2 mm thick, at 1/72 that gives us on a real plane a window 72 to 144 mm, between 3 and 6 inches thick.

 

At 1/48 a window between 2 and 4 inches thick.

 

1/32 - 1.25 to 2.5 inches  thick.

 

So it's for the the windscreen on your WNW kit!

 

 

 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, CedB said:

I'm not convinced they're going to look right open…

I am!

If you are going to the bother of putting a pair of .303s on each side how can it be a problem using the kit parts?

The entire inner curved window has enough clear bits to let you paint the frames which then sit behind the gunners.

 

Let us postulate (quietly at the back children) that you bought and cut the lovely bubbles I used for mine.

Then you have to cut them to allow clear vision of the guns and gunners.

Then you find the cut portion is not big enough to have the inner shielding at the front and then you buys another set to cut out a sacrificial bit.

When all the time Airfix gave you the inner window, screen and all.

 

Just paint the frames and expose the guns

 

 

 

 

 

 

If however  you are interested in hiding the guns inside, why?

Catalina-Build-140.jpg

 

?

Look!

 

Lost!

Catbuild-painting-b-026.jpg

 

I am not suggesting for one minute that yours will be untidy and I am painfully aware that mine is but I wish I had left the work I did visible.

 

If I ever repeat a Catalina this will not happen again.

 

The after market bubbles (designed for an Academy kit I understand, they don't actually fit the Airfix fuselage without heavy graft) are lovely but would be a pain to have open.

 

Anyway, case rested.

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There’s a reason I never turn on video in my work calls...

19101-B5-D-241-D-459-C-8-DC0-0-D85-EB362

A5-FF442-D-866-A-4-DD7-AEE5-EFF39-F7-CF6

 

Here are three attempts with superglue filling, done right to left.
 

First one, a bit of glue, close up spray with accelerator - fogged up with heavy flaws included.

 

Second one, more glue, accelerator dropped nearby and tipped so it ran over the glue - didn’t fill to the surface and had some fog and included flaws.

 

Third one, quite the dome of glue, accelerator sprayed lightly from a distance, polished a lot. “Slightly misty” Is the verdict on that. You can see things though it just. Best of the lot.

 

All three were highly polished at some stage but the first two got ruined in the course of doing the next one. The accelerator certainly helps but something in me and/or the product is not working....

 

Tantalisingly close, but I’m going to stick with glue’n’glaze for now.

 

/thread_drift

 

Regards,

Adrian

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I have got to say Ced, that it`s a tricky problem to solve.

 

I remember in the 70`s reading an article about replacing the dreadful plastic windows in Airfix`x airliner series.

 

They came up with solution.

 

Burnish a strip of Sellotape across the outside of the window(s).

Then pour drops of clear resin into the holes from the inside.

Once set, polish said resin windows.

 

Just and idea mate.

 

Stay safe.

 

Simon.

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39 minutes ago, Spookytooth said:

Then pour drops of clear resin into the holes from the inside.

 

I've tried that method with both clear resin and 'normal' resin (to be able to use decal windows) Simon, and the problem I found is that generally about 50% (at least) of the filled windows have annoying air bubbles in them! Easy enough to fill in the opaque resin but filling the clear ones with more resin usually seemed to leave the bubbles showing as like separate round pieces of resin (if that makes sense....)

 

K

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3 hours ago, Whofan said:

Ced,

 

what did you do with the CD's? used them as bird scarers?

 

Oh, the identity of the "special" kit?

 

Can't be "Special Hobby", too obvious. but given that a CD jewel case is between 1 - 2 mm thick, at 1/72 that gives us on a real plane a window 72 to 144 mm, between 3 and 6 inches thick.

 

At 1/48 a window between 2 and 4 inches thick.

 

1/32 - 1.25 to 2.5 inches  thick.

 

So it's for the the windscreen on your WNW kit!

Thanks John :) I've still got the CDs, mostly RWs, waiting for the dump recycling centre to reopen. You're right that the thickness is a bit much, but it probably matches the plastic!

I don't have a kit in mind but you never know when it might come in…

 

3 hours ago, perdu said:

I am!

If you are going to the bother of putting a pair of .303s on each side how can it be a problem using the kit parts?

The entire inner curved window has enough clear bits to let you paint the frames which then sit behind the gunners.

 

Let us postulate (quietly at the back children) that you bought and cut the lovely bubbles I used for mine.

Then you have to cut them to allow clear vision of the guns and gunners.

Then you find the cut portion is not big enough to have the inner shielding at the front and then you buys another set to cut out a sacrificial bit.

When all the time Airfix gave you the inner window, screen and all.

 

Just paint the frames and expose the guns

 

 

 

If however  you are interested in hiding the guns inside, why?

[snip pic]

 

?

Look!

 

Lost!

[snip pic]

 

I am not suggesting for one minute that yours will be untidy and I am painfully aware that mine is but I wish I had left the work I did visible.

 

If I ever repeat a Catalina this will not happen again.

 

The after market bubbles (designed for an Academy kit I understand, they don't actually fit the Airfix fuselage without heavy graft) are lovely but would be a pain to have open.

 

Anyway, case rested.

Awww, sorry Bill, I didn't mean to worry you - I'm not going to hide the guns, I'm just worried that the kit parts won't be good enough and I'll have to vac form some replacements. Tricky, as you say.

Thanks anyway for the pics :) 

 

2 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

There’s a reason I never turn on video in my work calls...

[snip pics]

 

Here are three attempts with superglue filling, done right to left.
 

First one, a bit of glue, close up spray with accelerator - fogged up with heavy flaws included.

 

Second one, more glue, accelerator dropped nearby and tipped so it ran over the glue - didn’t fill to the surface and had some fog and included flaws.

 

Third one, quite the dome of glue, accelerator sprayed lightly from a distance, polished a lot. “Slightly misty” Is the verdict on that. You can see things though it just. Best of the lot.

 

All three were highly polished at some stage but the first two got ruined in the course of doing the next one. The accelerator certainly helps but something in me and/or the product is not working....

 

Tantalisingly close, but I’m going to stick with glue’n’glaze for now.

 

/thread_drift

 

Regards,

Adrian

Thanks Adrian - what sort of glue was it?

I have some Glue'n'Glaze somewhere. must give that a try again :)

 

1 hour ago, Spookytooth said:

I have got to say Ced, that it`s a tricky problem to solve.

 

I remember in the 70`s reading an article about replacing the dreadful plastic windows in Airfix`x airliner series.

 

They came up with solution.

 

Burnish a strip of Sellotape across the outside of the window(s).

Then pour drops of clear resin into the holes from the inside.

Once set, polish said resin windows.

 

Just and idea mate.

 

Stay safe.

 

Simon.

1 hour ago, keefr22 said:

 

I've tried that method with both clear resin and 'normal' resin (to be able to use decal windows) Simon, and the problem I found is that generally about 50% (at least) of the filled windows have annoying air bubbles in them! Easy enough to fill in the opaque resin but filling the clear ones with more resin usually seemed to leave the bubbles showing as like separate round pieces of resin (if that makes sense....)

 

K

Thanks Simon and Keith - bubbles and resin, ugh! :) 

 

 

Floats have been filled:

 

49888037382_b4fff775ee_z.jpg

 

 

Let's look at those bubble windows.

 

I've realised that part of the problem was the angle of the dangle - I've been holding the fuselage half with the window mount flat, but of course that's wrong.

When you view from what might be the camera angle in the photos, it looks better:

 

49887735096_a4036bfe5a_z.jpg

 

Once I get the rear hinge fettled.

 

From the side with the fin upright:

 

49887737631_787730b267_z.jpg

 

…and from the rear (fnaar!):

 

49887738811_a1e26bbedc_z.jpg

 

I think they'll be OK.

 

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