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The Eternal Classic: Northrop Gamma - Cochran Long Nose Bendix racer


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3 hours ago, Moa said:

Trying some mods of a prop from the spares bin to make it similar to the one employed in this plane:

 

Prop pitch counterweights. Nice!

 

 

 

Chris

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44 minutes ago, 72modeler said:

Since the cowling is a separate assembly and you can get to the back side of the cowl flaps, maybe cutting some trapezoidal  wedges out of thick decal stock and applying between the gills  might work? Then paint the back side of the cowl flaps. I did this on a P-40 on the flaps of the radiator efflux, and it looked pretty good- a  lot easier and of a more scale thickness than trying to use plasticard.

Mike 

49869043347_f01bda8334_o.gif

 

😆:ner:

 

It is a clever solution, will use.

It will also rigidize a bit the assembly, avoiding the flaps to come loose easily.

Thanks for the tip.

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28 minutes ago, Moa said:

A base coat of aluminium was applied. It's an overcast day, so there isn't much "shine":

 

This looks spectacular! What paint did you use?

I have a copy of the CMR Hughes H1 that will need a bare aluminum look and I hope it turns out even in the same ballpark as this

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2 hours ago, sjsald said:

This looks spectacular! What paint did you use?

I have a copy of the CMR Hughes H1 that will need a bare aluminum look and I hope it turns out even in the same ballpark as this

Simple, really: Alclad grey normal primer over the plastic, with a good surface and lightly sanded smooth, Alclad Light Grey Gloss Base, and once that has dried, Aclad Aluminium. I play sometimes, later on, with masking and applying other Aclad hues: white aluminium, airframe aluminium, etc.

But on occasion I just leave the bare aluminium, depending on the original: if it looks patchy, more hues, if it looks more or less consistent in tone, I am lazy and leave it like that too.

I normally use a gloss black enamel as a base (not this time). For me, Humbrol works far better than Model Master on that. In fact, the last three or so Model Master gloss black enamels flasks I used were unsatisfactory, drying semi-gloss, and not really gloss.

I have also used many times gloss white enamel as a base.

Black, white and grey render different "moods" once you apply Alclad aluminium over.

This is something I am very reluctant commenting about, because thinners, temperature, airbrush type, pressure, etc., are all variables in this equation. And everybody has a "way" to do it, resulting in lengthy (like this) interventions, comparisons, examples, etc.

The best way to do this is buying what you think may work for you, and try it.

Needless to say you need a very good plastic surface to start with, because, as we all hardly learn by experience, every boo-boo will be enhanced with any metal finish.

And with that this station resumes its scheduled program.

 

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The engine from Engines & Things in Canada arrived, it was assembled and painted. The canopy sections were masked and painted too:

IMG_9902+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

If you want to use the whole engine, the nosepiece I added from the kit is made redundant, thus is removed. The engine can be installed right on top of the styrene extension I added first, giving it the right length to match the cowl:

IMG_9903+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

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37 minutes ago, StephenCJ said:

I am waiting for a parcel from Hannants.  It has been coming for so long I can't remember what is in it.  It has been in Sydney since the 22nd April.

Yeap, business and carriers can't be blamed, though (not that you are), it's part of the price we have to pay for safety, and for trying to keep the deaths to a minimum.

I rather wait and follow protocol as much as I can, rather than spread or get a potentially lethal virus.

Hey, the bright side: I am waiting for so many things to complete modeling projects that are almost ready, that I started yet another bunch!

 

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18 minutes ago, Moa said:

I rather wait and follow protocol as much as I can, rather than spread or get a potentially lethal virus.

Likewise.  We haven't been out for two months.  Yesterday my son and I went to Ballina spent a small fortune on some fish and new beds for the monsters (dogs).  Sanitised our hands at least 10 times and had a good day.

Because of my age my employer asked me and some of the other old buggers if we wanted to take some leave,  I jumped at the chance, a day out of fools paradise is a great day.           

 

Stephen

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"If you want to use the whole engine, the nosepiece I added from the kit is made redundant, thus is removed..."

 

WAIT!  Scene missing here.  How did you saw off the front portion of the fuselage after applying a metal finish and not leave ugly blemishes and scratch marks?  Did you carefully mask with Tamiya tape, place the model on a soft surface, and have a go at it with a razor saw?  This is nontrivial surgery.  😉

 

Alex

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1 hour ago, TheyJammedKenny! said:

"If you want to use the whole engine, the nosepiece I added from the kit is made redundant, thus is removed..."

 

WAIT!  Scene missing here.  How did you saw off the front portion of the fuselage after applying a metal finish and not leave ugly blemishes and scratch marks?  Did you carefully mask with Tamiya tape, place the model on a soft surface, and have a go at it with a razor saw?  This is nontrivial surgery.  😉

 

Alex

I used the  @Martian de-materializer. It's tricky. but it can be done, that is if you can afford the price you have to pay him for its use. At the current rate, it's about 1.56 postman per hour, and you have to provide the cage. Why do you think the mail is becoming so slow?

 

Well, it was done in two stages:

a) Crying slumped on the building board

b) Actual cutting with a very thin saw of first half of the cone to be able to glue the first engine row. No damage, phew! But then I thought: who am I kidding? I need to be able to accommodate the second row of cylinders. So I just grabbed a small pair of pliers and carefully yanked out the remaining section. No harm done (Kids: don't try this at home).

This contradicts the very basis of modelling physics, so I know that one of these days I will be innocently applying a small decal, and suddenly all flying surfaces will come apart, and the fuselage will split in the middle. Or I will be panting a tail wheel, and the canopy will crack and fog.

The Numina of modelling move in mysterious ways.

 

 

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A masterpiece in the making. That's the true spirit; don't be afraid of doing something radical to reach the ultimate goal.

 

It's looking so nice, even at this stage. Even making me a little tempted to do an aircraft again.

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  • 1 month later...

Yeepee! the other envelope with decals arrived!
The world post offices have proved Eisenstein theory of relativity! They have bent time!!!!
The envelope send 75 days ago arrived almost at the same time as the one sent about two weeks ago!
Nobel price for the Post Offices!

IMG_0790+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

I got the graphics to continue this model (and others...):

IMG_0792+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

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The set from Arctic Decals:

IMG_0908+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

A word about the different schemes.

Under Cochran's ownership, photos show the plane in different schemes.

The one chosen here has those curved motifs on the cowl, an X registration -letter that was applied on a white patch that covered the NR prefix-, on tail and wings, and a line on the fuselage sides ending in an arrow at the front, and with a running hare in the middle on a rhomboidal shape.

The regs on the wings, contrary to many common misrepresentations, are not perpendicular to the fuselage, but parallel to the leading edge. This is clear after studying photos, and not blindly following plans and instructions.

There were other schemes, again still under Cochran's ownership:

-At the race (which the plane did not complete) a number 55 was applied to the airframe, and the reg is preceded by NR.

-During what seems like the original trials, again the reg numbers are preceded by X, and no other decoration is visible anywhere on the plane.

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