New H+S, new paint, new flow improver and still clogging?

[Kev The Modeller]

22 hours ago, Doggy said:

I'm close to crying here. 

 

I've tried liquitex slow dri still can't get this to stop clogging.

 

The model air paint to me looks really thick so I can thin it to it's the consistency of milk and if I'm covering a full wing it sprays ok.

 

With the paint thinned I can leave the airbrush for 10 minutes and it won't clog.

So spraying big areas with the trigger pulled far back it's fine. The second I try delicate mottling the tip just clogs. I start to get bubbling back through the cup and trigger.

 

This is destroying me, I've no idea what else to do.

 

Incidentally a few days ago I sprayed 4 different tamiya paints without a hitch. 

 

Mate I had the same issues years ago now, it's part you and mostly you're choice of paint for what you're trying to do.  Water based acrylic doesn't like on off trigger operation that you get with detail or delicate work especially with 0.2 needle, it will clog and in my experience it doesn't really matter what you add to it it will do it at some point.  The bit you're doing wrong is expecting a water based acrylic to work like a alcohol based one like Tamiya Mr Hobby Aqueous, as you've discovered you can airbrush Tamiya, that's experience.  I'd advise you to switch paint when you want to do delicate painting and once you've got more time with the airbrush and paint you could try again with the water based acrylics.   If a smell/health is you're reason for sticking with water based acrylic, get a good mask and a booth, even just a good mask if your on budget, for all paint, masks and a booth you can't go far wrong looking Here  he's not that far form you either and still trading.     

 

    

Edited April 28, 2020 by Kev The Modeller

[Doggy]

8 hours ago, Kev The Modeller said:

Mate I had the same issues years ago now, it's part you and mostly you're choice of paint for what you're trying to do.  Water based acrylic doesn't like on off trigger operation that you get with detail or delicate work especially with 0.2 needle, it will clog and in my experience it doesn't really matter what you add to it it will do it at some point.  The bit you're doing wrong is expecting a water based acrylic to work like a alcohol based one like Tamiya Mr Hobby Aqueous, as you've discovered you can airbrush Tamiya, that's experience.  I'd advise you to switch paint when you want to do delicate painting and once you've got more time with the airbrush and paint you could try again with the water based acrylics.   If a smell/health is you're reason for sticking with water based acrylic, get a good mask and a booth, even just a good mask if your on budget, for all paint, masks and a booth you can't go far wrong looking Here  he's not that far form you either and still trading.     

 

    

I think you're right. 

I've spent hours watching videos and clogging seems to be a problem for everyone not just a novice like me. 

 

I was actually thinking of mottling with the tamiya, who would know the difference?

 

The guys on YouTube make everything looks so simple, they never seem to make mistakes.

 

Thanks again.

[oileanach]

On 4/27/2020 at 4:33 PM, Doggy said:

I'm close to crying here. 

 

I've tried liquitex slow dri still can't get this to stop clogging.

 

The model air paint to me looks really thick so I can thin it to it's the consistency of milk and if I'm covering a full wing it sprays ok.

 

With the paint thinned I can leave the airbrush for 10 minutes and it won't clog.

So spraying big areas with the trigger pulled far back it's fine. The second I try delicate mottling the tip just clogs. I start to get bubbling back through the cup and trigger.

 

This is destroying me, I've no idea what else to do.

 

Incidentally a few days ago I sprayed 4 different tamiya paints without a hitch. 

 

The airbrush has been stripped, soaked overnight and thoroughly cleaned out.

Just a thought. I use an H&S too. If the nozzle isn't twisted fully on, if there's a wee flake of paint somewhere in the thread or on the seal, say, then I get a bit of bubbling and jams, splutter and all that guff. 

 

Sometimes just tightening the nozzle is enough to cure it.

 

It's worth thoroughly mixing the paint itself before you mix it with anything else. One of those cheap coffee frother things is ideal, just snip enough of the gubbins off the end to let you stick it in the bottle (the tip is just pushed on/in to Vallejo bottles). You can use ball bearings as well- just pop one in and shake it like mad!

 

On drills- you could have a bit of kitchen roll close to the model, skoosh a quick burst onto the paper, wipe off the needle, mottle a few spots, then rinse and repeat?

 

Good luck mate! 

[Doggy]

3 hours ago, oileanach said:

Just a thought. I use an H&S too. If the nozzle isn't twisted fully on, if there's a wee flake of paint somewhere in the thread or on the seal, say, then I get a bit of bubbling and jams, splutter and all that guff. 

 

Sometimes just tightening the nozzle is enough to cure it.

 

It's worth thoroughly mixing the paint itself before you mix it with anything else. One of those cheap coffee frother things is ideal, just snip enough of the gubbins off the end to let you stick it in the bottle (the tip is just pushed on/in to Vallejo bottles). You can use ball bearings as well- just pop one in and shake it like mad!

 

On drills- you could have a bit of kitchen roll close to the model, skoosh a quick burst onto the paper, wipe off the needle, mottle a few spots, then rinse and repeat?

 

Good luck mate! 

I think it's a combination of everything and it's a big learning curve.

I never realized tamiya were alcohol based, I thought all acrylics were water based.

 

If I open up the needle model air sprays ok, it's really just the mottling that's tough. 

 

Today I was doing a tank and I attempted to mottle with revell aqua. It clogged the needle too.

 

However if I keep the paint flowing and draw the airbrush back away from the model the mottling results aren't terrible.

 

Thanks.

[Walter]

I'm going to chime in if a little late, I'm sure you have solved the issue given the age of the OP, but I'll share my thoughts, Vallejo model air is crap! that's your problem full stop. I tried it as an alternative to my usual Hobby Color. Never touching that stuff again and to think its marketed as a direct to AB use. Well I don't believe it.

 

Mr Hobby Color paints are top shelf they spray beautifuly, are easy to modulate and mix with a variety of thinners depending on your application or preference.

Edited September 6, 2020 by Walter

[Bear Paw]

Very late to this and for what it is worth agree with the majority here.  I have tried Vallejo model air, Hakata, Revell acrylic, and Lifecolor acrylic paint and succeed to block my airbrush with all of them. On the other hand I have used Tamiya acrylics, Mr Hobby Color, and MRP paint and have had excellent results. 
My conclusion is I can not use acrylic paint.  

[Doggy]

It's funny how some folk hate Vallejo and others swear by it.

 

I've bought quite a few sets of ma for the ease of use. The do spray straight from my sparmax. 

I just struggle with the HS, I think it's too good for me.

[ScottStevensNz]

I have two airbrushes - an H&S Evo and a fengda something cheap. Vellejo model air clogged in both without fail. Tamiya acrylics worked fine with the tamiya thinners and a drop of tamiya retarder. But... Tamiya lacquers are a joy to use even in the cheap fengda. going to try some mr. colour lacquer at some stage. Don't be discouraged - its the paint, not the brush or you. On the up side, if you are painting 1/72 lead figures, the modelair is brilliant when being brushed on

[Rick Brown]

It's amazing this airbrushing lark.

Everybody gets different results with the same setup!

I personally use an Iwata CR with both .3 and .5 needle sets and have never had trouble with Vallejo MA, or most paints TBH (I have a vast selection of different paints from different companies, cause I like to experiment..).

I just throw in a bit of relevant thinners in the cup, bung in a few drops of paint, a bit more thinners, stir with a cocktail stick, blast a bit on a tissue, throw in a bit more paint or thinners to get the flow right, then spray away.

I just must be lucky.

A couple of recent findings though. Tamiya LP paint is stunning and MRP is like gnats p@@s.

I just couldn't afford to use MRP on a 1/35th tank, it'll take nearly two bottles! Think Alclad...

In this particular case, I reverted to Tamiya XF paint as a base coat, then used MRP as a top coat.

 

Keep at it chap.

 

Rick,

Straying more towards old fashioned enamels and lacquers and a better mask these days.....

 

[Petrov]

Here is my method of airbrushing acrylics(vallejo) when I have to. 

Wipe the needle down with some Iwata lubricant, reinsert needle, put about 4 drops of vallejo glow improver in the clean brush and spray it out. 

Shave the living hell out of the VMA paint bottle, use a bit of flow improver and vallejo paint thinner if using vallejo paint.