Best paint for an airbrush?

[Back in the Saddle]

I’ve been airbrushing for a few months now, so am a relative beginner in this field.

 

I've been using Humbrol enamels with mixed results - some have gone on very well, others not so...! Part of the problem has been my incorrect technique, but I suspect I’ve had some dodgy paint too - some of the tins are a few years old and I know Humbrol have had quality issues in the past.

 

I need to replenish my paint and was wondering if I should try another brand? Tamiya gets good reviews, but which range would be best? Do they have a good range of authentic colours?

 

Any advice welcome!

[dnl42]

What didn't work? What thinner are you using? To what consistency? Sprayed at what air pressure (full-flow, not static)? Sprayed at what distance?

 

Do you want to continue using enamels or some other type, such as lacquer or acrylics? Perhaps most importantly, what paints are readily available to you?

 

I really like Mr Color, which is a lacquer. It's not the most forgiving paint in terms of application, but rewards your good airbrushing technique with the best possible finish. Make sure the surface is very smooth as lacquers are the thinnest paint. Give bare plastic a final cleaning with IPA to remove all contaminants. I use Mr Surfacer 1200 as a primer, thinned identically to Mr Color paint. I thin with Mr Color Leveling Thinner (a.k.a., MLT) to the consistency of 1% milk. Full-flow air pressure is 15 psi (1 atmosphere). Spray at 5mm to 45mm. Make sure the paint hits the surface slightly wet (use a grazing light to see this). Spray light coats until you get coverage; usually all one session as the paint dries very quickly. If a gloss color, finish off with a final wet coat. Do all this, and you will have a wonderfully thin, smooth, and durable finish.

[Rabbit Leader]

Have to agree 100% with what @dnl42 has mentioned above. A few years ago I was having the same issues with my AB and credit the switch to a cheap gravity fed brush and using Gunze’s Mr. Color, MLT combination for my ‘personal’ success. Prior to this I would have one good airbrush session to every five frustrating ones and these issues are now pretty much illuminated. I still haven’t mastered mottling, however will give it a try when the subject matter crosses my workbench.

 

Now you’d be happy to know that I still use my large range of Humbrol enamels, however use this companies own thinner exclusively for mixing. Once you get your spray technique working for you, you’ll also find Humbrol paints go on just as well as any other manufacturers paint. I cannot stress the fact that many more sessions of AB practice will make you a more confident painter. 
 

Cheers and all the best.. Dave 

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

In Scotland? Good range of authentic colours? That's us...

 

However I agree with Dave above that there's no substitute for practise and refinement of your personal technique. That personal technique will change from paint brand and type to paint brand and type which is why sometimes you'll hear glowing praise for a particular type from someone then the next person would happily launch them into the bin.

[Back in the Saddle]

Thanks for the comments.

 

The airbrush is an Iwata NEO, gravity fed brush.
 

I am using white spirit to thin the paint, aiming for a milky consistency each time.

Compressor has a tank and is usually set to 10-15 psi.

Spraying distance varies and I have been guilty of spraying from too far away. I have now rectified this part of my technique!

 

I’m using Humbrol enamels for historical reasons - I have loads of them in most of the colours I need. I’ve heard that they can take a long time to fully harden, even when sprayed, so I leave a long time (often days) between each coat. Possibly excessive?

 

The main problem is that the paint can sometimes splatter as it leaves the nozzle. I also get regular blockages when using Mr. Surfacer 1500 (or 1200) as a primer, necessitating a complete strip down and clean on every occasion - so much so, I’ve stopped using it as a primer...

 

Sometimes I get an excellent finish, but it’s just not consistent - the next day I might have problems again.

 

Airbrush flushed through after each session and stripped down to clean several times this year - more frequently than I would have expected...

 

Thanks,

 

Matt

[Rabbit Leader]

Matt, might we worth upping your compressor pressure to somewhere close to 20psi. As time goes on, you will get to know the sound, feel and flow of what works and will rarely look back at the regulator to see what setting it’s set at. Like all good craftsmen, you will get the feel of it when things are right and when that happens, just repeat it time and time again. 
 

Cheers.. Dave 

[bmwh548]

I have no idea if Mr. Surfacer can be diluted with White Spirit (you didn't mention any other thinners), but I'm inclined to say it won't like it. That might be one of the reasons it's spitting/splattering. For Mr. Surfacer I wouldn't use anything other than Leveling Thinner or automotive lacquer thinner (careful as the last one will bite hard into the plastic if you over do it).

As for Humbrol acting up....well it is Humbrol. I tend to avoid them as their quality is very hit and miss. When you do the mix always do it in a clear cup so you can check for grittiness, pigment separation and whatever else might come along (even big chunks of gelified pigment - I've had that too).

Though you're using the right pressure for a good, modern paint (like Mr. Color) it might be too low for Humbrol. Pigment size is also a factor so you might need to up the air pressure a bit and dial down the air flow so you can keep a reasonable distance between the model and the airbrush.

Personal preference for me regarding normal paint would be Mr. Color, MRP (careful as these are in a completely different range and they require a very sensitive trigger finger), AK Real Color and Tamiya.

For metal paints you can't go wrong with AK Interactive's Extreme Metal.  Very forgiving and really good colors (to my eyes).

Above all is automotive paint, but that is not something you would use for anything other than automotive modelling.

[Back in the Saddle]

@bmwh548 I used the cellulose thinner with Mr. Surfacer but I’ve now bought the correct thinner you described above so will use that next time - hopefully that will work much better and I will keep the cellulose for flushing the airbrush afterwards. It is a little hot, but has not damaged any plastic yet. I’m sure the self levelling will work better.👍

 

Only the Humbrol splatters. Mr. Surfacer actually went on quite well, despite using cellulose to thin it. The only issue with this was that it was blocking the nozzle after use - hopefully due to not using the proper thinner...?

 

I will experiment a bit more and see how things go, upping the PSI a bit more.

 

I need to buy some black paint for my GB Lancaster, so was just contemplating trying a completely different paint. If so, which to buy?! I suspect @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies might get an order soon so I can try Colourcoats... I think as my Humbrol colours get used up I will replace them with another brand and see which works best for me.

[ckw]

The "best" choice could be interpreted in many ways! But for ease of use I'd vote for Mr Hobby. thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner - this combination appears very tolerant of variations in dilution and air pressure - I'm struggling to think of an spraying mishap with Mr Hobby - reasonably good range of colors - better than Tamiya.

 

But where possible, I prefer enamels for finish and control - typically Colourcoats or Xtracolor (typically depending on availability of the colours I need). Getting the paint/thinner mix and air pressure right seems more critical, I'd also suggest not all white spirit is the same - if possible use the companies' own thinner (Naptha based), or failing that use a white spirit which has not been 'modified' (eg. low odor). Humbrol would be a last resort for me, esp. the glosses - though I should say some ancient (30 years!) tins of the old authentic range sprayed beautifully. These days Humbol is just too hit and miss, though I still use it for brushed parts because its easy to get hold of.

 

Mr Surfacer - I've been spraying this for a couple of years (1200 or 1000) using a real cheapo Chinese knockoff brush, and it has worked perfectly  - never even had a strip down clean. I spray it very much thinned - almost like water at around 15psi. After a few minutes, I start to get minor spattering (due to tip dry) but a quick wipe of the tip with a cotton bud dipped in cellulose sorts that. With such a thin consistency, any minor spatters that do occur disappear when dry.

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

[bmwh548]

Nozzle getting clogged with Mr. Surfacer could be a result of Humbrol residue in there reacting to the cellulose/lacquer thinner being used. Although some enamels can be thinned with lacquer thinner others will go horribly bad and I think I actually read here about people getting mixed results with Humbrol enamels. Some thin with lacquer thinner, others turn into gel. The ones I tried thinning with MLT and lacquer thinner turned gritty really fast.

[Kev The Modeller]

I was sort if in the same position as you about 4 yrs ago when I returned to the hobby after a 30 odd year break.   I'd never used a modelling airbrush well very briefly one of those first Humbrol ones it wasn't pretty as O didn't realise I had the thin the paint.  All my teenage/previous experience was brushing Humbrol enamels, I did start using Tamiya acrylics (brush painting) not long before I stopped and at the time they were new on the market.  On returning I opted for an airbrush and water based acrylic (Ammo Mig) mainly as I liked the dropper bottle, easy to get hold of and they have almost no smell.  Like many and because I could afford it I went in fairly big, buying all the colours from the Ammo range I'd need to paint the armour builds I was doing at the time.  I'd watched countless Utube tutorials got everything airbrush, basic booth, tools etc to start, at first it went very well, but as I started using different colours and wanting to do more detailed work things started to get very difficult.  Airbrushing cammo patterns, or other smaller paint work was a nightmare, tip dry, splattering, surface drying you name it I had it, I tried all manner of things, retarder, flow improver, the issues effected different colours in different ways, some not effected at all.  

 

Long story short, the issues were mostly me and trying to do something the product can't really do in the way I was trying to do it.  As mentioned above, time on the tool is paramount, also understanding the product, it's strengths, weaknesses and limitations.  Due to the above frustration (I just wanted to airbrush my models) and advice I turned to Tamiya and Mr Hobby both Aqueous and lacquer paints, I've not looked back, they're just so consistent and easy to use.  Yes they smell, over come by buying a decent booth, of course that's more money, only really needed for the lacquer paints, if you want to use them at home without wearing a mask.  By switching to these I've now mastered the airbrush (time on the tool) and now I can also airbrush Ammo Mig a lot more consistently, but my go to paint will always be Tamiya and Mr Hobby and they now both have lacquer paints.                

[Back in the Saddle]

Thanks everybody, some great advice and tips.

 

I might try a cheaper airbrush just for the priming, as that eliminates the mixture of products potentially reacting in the nozzle.

 

Short term, I will buy some different paints and have a go with them, to see which I prefer.

 

I have a spray booth, so lacquer based is not a problem:

 

[Faraway]

I started with Tamiya paints, thinned 50/50 with Tamiya thinners. The airbrush used is a Iwata Neo. The results were ok, but I found I had difficulty controlling the amount of paint I was applying, seemed to be all or nothing.

So I’ve thrown caution to the wind and bought a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity and I’ve also started using Vallejo Air, which so far hasn’t needed thinning so less hassle before spraying.

I have to say the results so far are really encouraging, the H&S airbrush is very good, and I do like the fact I can adjust how much paint I release. 

[Back in the Saddle]

I've been experimenting a bit more this week, with varied results. My latest issue is that when the paint first comes out, it splatters. After the initial splattering it performs much better and sprays consistently. I think another strip and clean might be in order...!

On the plus side, new enamels from Jamie are on their way - probably another good reason to give the equipment a thorough clean before trying these out!

[bmwh548]

Sounds like you have a cracked nozzle (worse scenario) or the needle isn't seating properly (not going all the way forward or maybe bent).

[Back in the Saddle]

I will give it a good inspection once it’s stripped down and check. I suspect it’s just not seated properly, as I’ve always been very careful with it whenever it’s been disassembled for cleaning.

[Faraway]

1 hour ago, Back in the Saddle said:

I've been experimenting a bit more this week, with varied results. My latest issue is that when the paint first comes out, it splatters. After the initial splattering it performs much better and sprays consistently. I think another strip and clean might be in order...!

On the plus side, new enamels from Jamie are on their way - probably another good reason to give the equipment a thorough clean before trying these out!

Could be your paint is too thick.

[Back in the Saddle]

On 28/04/2020 at 22:18, Faraway said:

Could be your paint is too thick.

It’s possible - thinning is a judgement and mine might have been a a bit off at this early stage...!

 

I used the airbrush this morning and had mixed results. Mainly good, but occasional splatters. However, these only started to happen after I had left the airbrush for a few minutes then returned back to it, so possibly paint drying in the nozzle?

 

I’ve since given the airbrush a complete strip down and removed a significant amount of debris - the needle was caked in dried paint. It’s now rebuilt (paying particular attention to the seating of the needle, which appears to be straight) and I’ve squirted some IPA through the brush, which flowed through faultlessly. I have soaked all the major components in cellulose thinners - they shift the dried paint beautifully, I just hope they don’t attack the ‘O’ rings?!

 

I hope to test it in anger with more enamels later today, as it seems to be working a whole lot better now than it was this morning. 👍

 

 

[Faraway]

I use Tamiya acrylics and thin them 50/50. Never used enamel, too smelly. I’ve also found that even thinned paint spattered occasionally, you might be right about it drying in the brush. I read somewhere that if using a double action airbrush, you should press for air, then paint and when you finish stop the paint, but let the air continue for a second or two. I try to do this and it seems to work, but it is a bit like patting my head and rubbing my stomach at the same time. On my present build, I’m using Vallejo Model Air, which is supposed not to need thinning. Seems ok, but I’ve found I have to flick the trigger occasionally as the paint doesn’t always flow too well, and I think it’s drying in the nozzle. This airbrushing is a bit of a dark art, isn’t it.

I found these videos helpful.

https://www.florymodels.org/new-page-1

Edited May 3, 2020 by Faraway
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[Back in the Saddle]

15 minutes ago, Faraway said:

I read somewhere that if using a double action airbrush, you should press for air, then paint and when you finish stop the paint, but let the air continue for a second or two.

Sounds like a good tip, I’ll try it next time.👍

[Jasper779]

I've been airbrushing for a year now and having done all of my US and Soviet 1/72 armour , it's time to take the plunge and have a go at German 3 tone camo.

 

I have also seen improvement over that past year with no major blocking problems as I experienced at the beginning.

 

I have tried tamiya, Vallejo, life color and mission model paints and at the moment, I am having most luck with mig. Especially when I use the recommended mig thinner.

 

I have an iwata revolution, iwata eclipse and H&S infinity. I am most successful with the eclipse at the moment. I seem to have more range and control over air and paint.

 

I use the recommended thinners for all of the paints and a PSI of 15-20.

 

I do have the splutter problem sometimes and difficulty in getting a tight line. Unless it's my imagination brown is harder the airbrush than green or yellow.

 

I try to judge my progress against where I began and avoid trying to compete with the experts as it is demoralising.

 

Still enjoying it though and practice makes perfect , or so that say. 😀

[Stef N.]

I have just used Tamiya Lacquers properly for the first time and so far, so very good. Use 50/50 with Tamiya thinner with retarder, follow @dnl42 tips for spraying Mr Color and bingo, a really nice finish.

[Back in the Saddle]

With another few weeks of air brushing experience, I think the problem was partly some dodgy Humbrol paint and partly a blocked/dirty nozzle. I have thrown the tin of paint away, stripped and cleaned the air brush and since then it’s been hassle free. 👍
 

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions - it was a huge help and I’m getting far better results now.

[Kev The Modeller]

Glad you got it sorted