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Airfix Lockheed Hudson


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Thanks Gents! Today’s crazy notion involved getting the cowling sides a bit rounder. So i put them inside a spare plumbing fitting (inside dia 15mm) and dunked it in boiling water for 5 minutes. I remembered to drink from the other mug with the tea in it!

005-ED00-F-AE7-B-42-D6-BB4-C-95-FB93-D94


So now I can cut a piece to fit around my “polo mint” with a butt join and glue it on. Because the curve is there and the joint won’t be stressed I can use Contacta not CA. The polo needs to be inset 1.5mm from the back edge so it overlaps the nacelle properly. When that’s dries a bit I can pop the engine fronts in and add some more loops of card ready to sand down a rounded front lip.

 

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5 hours ago, CedB said:

Now I can see what you were up to!

Sorry it didn’t turn into a Flamingo Christmas tree decoration Ced! Blue Peter was so much better than this...

 

So the first internal wraps have been added. They go up against the engine baseplate and will be sanded back to the level of the outer cowling, which is marked with black Sharpie to tell me when I get there:

B0-D887-B0-ECAE-4-AB9-9550-759-B07-DE41-

 

This layer gets painted black on the inside because I won’t be able to reach it when the front rings are on.

 

Then two narrow wraps were added to bring the cowling in at the front.

AC5353-AB-3-E25-4733-9371-65292-A5-F91-F

 

I’ve doused it all with some Tamiya green cap and when it’s dry I can sand in the curved front.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I’m back to the Hudson today:

885-AFA87-4-D6-D-4-FD6-BB6-A-EEE43755262
 

The undercarriage and has been changed considerably to make it retract. Whilst I really appreciated this as a boy, I’ve since changed my mind and I’m changing it to look more accurate.

 

In doing so I have (re)learned that pre-CAD kit parts aren’t necessarily the same size  on both sides...

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I've been neglecting my homework on this one, I do like your ideas for the nacelles Adrian, something for me to try & remember come the day I dig out my one with it's Kiwi markings. :unsure:

Steve.

 

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1 hour ago, Hewy said:

are you sure your not digging a deep hole

Hmm. I’m getting there, just not sure whether it’s to a new set of wheels or the bottom of a hole!

 

the working wheels are hinged high up in the wing because it’s easier to mould the hinge up there. That means the legs are long and they go too far back when retracted. So you have to shorten the wheel well:

EC436-CF5-E22-B-4-A2-C-90-C3-A5-F5-C7-B6

 

You can see how much shorter the legs are in reality:
9-E63-F320-4715-4-F24-B496-AA0-D4-A94-EF

 

I think I’ve finished messing around now:

1-B4-D940-E-6-BC8-4326-8-EE9-43-B3632-B8


The legs fit snugly into holes I’ve drilled  in chunks of 1.5mm card stuck into the nacelles.

 

I need to putty up the back of the nacelle, sand it down and add some proper struttery to the legs. I could go on with the wheel well detailing but I have a Hudson to build...

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Nice work Adrian - it's almost like you've created a 'build your own wheel bay kit'… have you thought about an AM company? :D 

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37 minutes ago, mick b said:

these may have saved you some time?

Nah, cheating. 

37 minutes ago, CedB said:

build your own wheel bay kit

Good online walkthrough photo sets are a mixed blessing...

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I’ve assembled the nacelles and filled the unwanted holes:

FDCF3-AC6-949-A-4020-9-A09-C64-B6169-BD6

 

The nacelles need a sand and a tidy, then they can get stuck to the wings. While I was holding a ball of Milliput in my hands I did a whole lot of other filling that needed to get done.

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