spaddad Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 On 4/20/2020 at 6:06 AM, CliffB said: Adrian's definition of OOB: "taking the bits out of the box" It's funny 'cos it's true. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Oh dear Adrian, thats not good at all! I hope that your plastic sheet inserts go well as I would hate for this build to fall by the wayside. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 11 hours ago, CedB said: I've always loved the Hudson for some reason - all the bits of a 'proper bomber' but somehow more 'cuddly'. Strangely enough, I always thought the opposite. Not a proper bomber at all but an over-inflated airliner with an over-inflated turret! Regards, Adrian 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 16 minutes ago, modelling minion said: fall by the wayside. Nope. Not gonna happen. Even if it ends up being the only Hudson ever with blacked-out windows! Regards, Adrian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 4 minutes ago, AdrianMF said: Nope. Not gonna happen. Even if it ends up being the only Hudson ever with blacked-out windows! Regards, Adrian Very pleased to hear it Adrian! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Boak Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Superglue emits a vapour when curing which attacks transparencies. One of those things that "everyone" knows - unless they don't. Your nose ones were just lucky. You could always do a wartime civilian one which would have black-out windows. Or fill the nose and call it a Lockheed 14. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dansk Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 (edited) A shame with the glazing Adrian. if the clear plastic sheets is a pain to fit have you considered, If the apertures are small enough, the old glazing from PVA glue trick or alternatively glue ‘n’ glaze? Edited May 3, 2020 by Dansk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Graham Boak said: Superglue emits a vapour when curing which attacks transparencies. One of those things that "everyone" knows I do know that! I’ve been a fool. It’s also a good job that I checked whether acetone* dissolves polystyrene - I will put that bottle back in the shed. I didn’t get around to putting superglue on the front windows luckily. Meanwhile the windows Have been removed mechanically: If I ever want a convincing “fragments of old glass in a wreck” effect I will know how to do it. I’ve got loads of flat clear plastic so putting some new windows together should go a bit better next time... Regards, Adrian * nasty stuff - half of it has evaporated In a closed plastic bottle since I bought it and the bottom doesn’t sit flat any more. Rather the shed explodes than the house! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 4 minutes ago, Dansk said: glazing from PVA glue trick Good point. I will clean up and skin one frame now and see how it looks next session before I commit. Thanks, Adrian 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 When i saw your fogged up transparencys i thought you were going for a genuine period build, imagine my disappointment when, I'm on catchup and you've removed them 😳 😋 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 17 minutes ago, Hewy said: genuine period build There is actually a very nice model here of an abandoned Hudson wreck, complete with sheep. Tempting though a sheep diorama may be, let’s see whether this bubble bursts first: 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dansk Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 (edited) If it works it might be worth doing them all after paint, then you dont need to mask them Edited May 9, 2020 by Mike Removing unnecessary photo quote 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Rats. I wonder if there are different types of 'superglue'? Perhaps only the Martian brand works… although I think I've tried it and it was OK? Perhaps it's the plastic? I've used Humbrol Clearfix for windows before and, if you follow the Humbrol instructions, it works well IMHO. If you can get some… Application A cocktail stick is usually the most practical means of application. Run a small drop of Clearfix around the edge of the window then draw across the opening to produce a thin membrane Drying Time 24 hours How to clean Excess product should be wiped away using a damp cloth. Product is permanent once dry. HTH 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 56 minutes ago, CedB said: different types of 'superglue'? Hmmm, maybe I needed odourless? 57 minutes ago, CedB said: Humbrol Clearfix Thanks. I’ve got “Glue’n’Glaze” from the makers of PPP and I did a test last thing last night on some scrap: The right hand one was made using the least amount of glue possible and is thinner and optically much clearer Than the others, so that’s where I’m headed, after painting. No masking for me! I will thin the edges of the windows from behind to reduce the meniscus at the edges too. The windows are surprisingly resilient after they are done, as I found out when I tried to remove the test one I did. I think I have some Clearfix downstairs in the garage, so I may do a comparative test. Cutting out little rounded rectangles of PETG and then having to mask them all doesn’t appeal at all. That fiddle time is going to be spent cutting out the fixed leading edge slots... 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dansk Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 The test looks great Adrian. Nice! Will be interesting to see if clearfix can do the same. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 That test really has worked well Adrian, looks like work can recommence! And we will be able to see the interior too . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Headroom Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Looking good. I have had this in my stash for years but don’t have the courage to tackle it. Not wishing to put you off, but externally the following are noticeable and need attention.... * passenger door - the top is flat not rounded (it’s only right for a civil Lockheed 14) * engines - totally wrong shape for a Cyclone engined version. The only conversion sets I’ve seen are for the Twin Wasp version. * bomb bay door. Too small. Needs to be longer and the back end ‘chopped off’ at a 45 degree angle to avoid being fouled when open and parked. * canopy is too squashed * turret is the wrong shape * there is only one continuous elevator and not split as per the moulding. * from the Mk.III onwards, there is an offset and retractable ‘scare gun’ I contributed the photos to the Britmodeller walk-around, which will show firstly where the Airfix kit is wrong and then where the ‘real thing’ is a lousy reference source! If you have any questions, please ask! Trevor 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 18 minutes ago, Max Headroom said: Not wishing to put you off Not at all Trevor! I’d picked up most of them except for the canopy, which seems a bit too wide anyway. Shame, because it’s the only half-decent transparency in the kit! I would add to that list the fixed slots in the wing, the horrible propellers and the crude undercarriage. I have found some plans on t’web that I’ve scaled and printed: so I’m in the process of working out what else to do and what to ignore. I will consult the walk around too. [edit - I’m not sure I trust the plans that much either!] Thanks, Adrian 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 So it turns out that the Grumman Duck uses the Wright Cyclone too, and I have one lurking in the stash. So I’m borrowing the engine (cowling is too short sadly) and I have my Oyumaru: Today I took delivery of my Sylmasta resin moulding kit. The Oyumaru mould is ready, so I’ve mixed some resin (badly, but I’m just having a play with a tiny splash from each can) and tried a cast: I have some other topical moulds to fill too. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 Well I’m going to give myself an F: poor mixing and possibly ratios too. Even then it might have worked if I left it overnight. I’ll do it properly tomorrow. Ironically the Empire seat frames, of which I have enough plus spares, came out fine. I've got into some slapdash habits with Milliput and Isopon P38, both of which are very easy and forgiving in mixing and ratios. Need to fix that! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 'F'? That's a bit harsh Adrian, the engines look OK? I have the same problem mixing small amounts of resin - the little pots I use don't do less than 10ml accurately… perhaps I should try pipettes… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 They look a lot better than anything I would be able to do Adrian, I think your F is far too harsh. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Headroom Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 This is intriguing. Never heard of Oyumaru before (sounds like something you get with sushi!). I’ll be making notes for future reference. One thing I forgot to mention earlier is that the undercarriage cut-outs are wrong. In real life they are the shape of the retracted undercarriage and not a ruddy great hole as depicted. Trevor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 1 hour ago, CedB said: 'F'? That's a bit harsh 29 minutes ago, modelling minion said: F is far too harsh I’m afraid it isn’t: The Mercury mould still has gunk in it and some more has set overnight. It’s Goodnight Vienna for that mould - I have more Milliput Mercuries than I have projects. And the engine and fin are still blobby and sticky. So I’m going to make new moulds for the lot. But first I have to put it all one one side and crack on with work, because I have a deadline coming up at the end of the week and I’ve got loads to do still... 28 minutes ago, Max Headroom said: One thing I forgot to mention earlier I’ll just add it to the list 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted May 9, 2020 Author Share Posted May 9, 2020 Deadline met, another crack with Oyumaru and properly measured and mixed resin this time: The engines are... OKish. The Airfix Duck donor doesn’t have the best model Cyclone ever, and the Oyumaru can’t really squish down between the cylinders because they have a back plate so there’s nowhere for the trapped air to go. But I think they will look fine painted up inside a cowling. I’m not going to do a silicone mould for two copies of a mediocre original. With a new canopy master for my Empire build (easier to sand smooth than the balsa master), and I realise I need some more seat backs... 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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