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Airfix Lockheed Hudson


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1 hour ago, modelling minion said:

fair amount of filler

Well, I have to sand all the rivets off anyway and I had a load of Milliput to use up so I went a bit thick rather than trying to tidy it all up!

 

The filler on the windows is just repairing the damage I did getting the failed CA glazing out. I have yet another plan for the windows, to be revealed soon...

1 hour ago, Max Headroom said:

Bit of a putty monster that!

In all fairness if you didn’t want to correct some of the features it actually fits quite nicely.

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no more rivets, lots of dust today:

119-C41-E2-6814-4039-9153-697-E7385-BC57

 

It’s starting to look aeroplane-shaped. The fuselage closes a lot better now I’ve added the vacform-style tabs. Strange to me to not start with the cockpit. So where have we got to? From Trevor’s list:

* passenger door - gone, ready to rescribe

* engines - new engines and cowlings made

* bomb bay door - gone, ready to rescribe

* canopy - fits and it’s clear, paint frames higher to make it look less squashed!

* turret - ‘orrible, new one needed

* elevator, gone, ready to rescribe

* scare gun - scribe hatch

 

My list:

* slots - done

* props - modify or replace 

* intakes and oil coolers

* wheel wells - done

* interior

* windows

* nose transparency

* details

* paint + decals

 

I find it helps to have a list for complicated projects. The turret is the item to worry about.

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On 05/05/2020 at 07:59, CedB said:

I have the same problem mixing small amounts of resin - the little pots I use don't do less than 10ml accurately…

I used the little plastic spoons that come with medicine,   like Calpol, courtesy of young daughter.  double ended, 5ml and 2.5ml.  Maybe ask in a chemists? 

 

I just checked them, I had two, one each for the A and B resin, wipe clean after use and they can be re-used....but not if you mix them up!

 

Found they worked well....though  I just dug my resin out.... not touched it in years and the B resin is now solid in the can :(

 

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16 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

I just dug my resin out.... not touched it in years

I bought a resin kit a some years back and cast maybe a dozen propeller blades and half a dozen wheels before it went off. I bought my current one a month ago because Sylmasta were having a sale. I've used it for a couple of engines for this, some Empire seat backs and a Demon fin. I can cast a few more Demon fins, but I don't think I need a fleet of Fairey Long Range Monoplane fuselages and a resin Empire fuselage is entering the realms of fantasy. I am using pipettes (clearly marked A and B!) to measure out small quantities but your spoon idea sounds easier to clean up. I've got the moulding kit near to hand in the study this time, so I hope to use it if I get some inspiration!

16 hours ago, Hewy said:

effort on the nacelles

Thanks! A bit of trial and error (and simplification) but they got there in the end.

15 hours ago, modelling minion said:

extra tabs

They subtly changed the lie of the fuselage so the canopy now fits, so that's a result!

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  • 2 weeks later...

It’s been a while, but my shelf of shame is now clear, so I can resume my current projects!

 

The Hudson interior detailing is a tad - er - basic:

C809790-B-B1-F6-406-D-BD18-FA83602-AC6-F

 

I’m using some solder to find the profiles of my bulkheads. It is a lot quicker than my usual “trim until it fits” method, but there is still some faffing about to get it just right:

3-A6-AEC04-19-EB-4184-BBA7-ECF8-DEC1-A5-

DEC558-BB-2-EAF-49-FC-9-D19-FAE4-BA4-D2-

 

I’ve put the floor a bit higher than the real thing to hide the wing roots:

D5431-BB5-5256-4-B90-8004-B39-FD271-A14-

 

Although the floor is a bit high I have faked up some detail to look at through the tiny windows. I’ve taken a bit more time and care on the cockpit and I even managed to use another kit part for the navigator’s table:

F12-A37-C8-355-C-433-C-BB6-F-D74546-C1-A

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Thanks @MarkSH, @modelling minion and @CedB. I always like doing interiors, the trouble is getting myself to stop...

 

The solder trick worked well so I will use it again. I have a carpenters profile gauge but I have found that it’s not up to the smaller scale and precision needed for modelling. Oops, that probably tells you a bit too much about my carpentry!

 

I've given it all a lick of paint too:

B105-DD6-F-B629-4-FAD-B776-2-FF44241-E9-
 

The decal sheet had an instrument panel on it so that got put on - works nicely but I doubt it will be seen much through the canopy.

 

I wanted a darker American interior green so I tried out Hu 117 acrylic. It’s darker than the enamel version and I’m happy enough with it. you can see the turret base is in waiting for a scratch built turret.

 

Three seats and belts and then I can pop in the windows and close up. The windows will be rectangles of clear PETG with the corners cut off. I didn’t think the glue film method looked as good so I’m going to take the extra time and effort. I’ve fitted one in the radio compartment and cut out a few more for fitting tomorrow.

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Very nice Adrian :) 

 

Good luck with the windows - that's going to be 'therapeutic'! 

What went wrong with the 'glue film' may I ask? What did you try?

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Fantastic work as usual Adrian :thumbsup2:

 

If all else fails with the cabin windows, you could try using a strip of clear decal film applied over the row of windows once the model is finished.

I used this technique on a 1/72 DC-2 a few years ago and it worked well (although potentially fragile).  The DC-2 was a shiny NMF though, so the decal blended in fine once applied.  I guessing that you might need to touch in around your windows with matt varnish though.  As I say - if all else fails!

 

Cheers

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Or some of this stuff that I've used successfully for landing light covers?

I think it replaces the old 'Diamond' stuff?

 

It will sit a bit proud stuck on the outside but it's very thin and, with careful cutting, you could paint the edges for 'frames'?

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5 hours ago, CedB said:

What went wrong with the 'glue film' may I ask? What did you try?

Thanks Ced. It didn’t so much go wrong as be inconsistent and not great as a result. I did a test on a piece of scrap back here with Glue’n’Glaze. I will be posting my inserts later for comparison.

4 hours ago, CliffB said:

strip of clear decal film

Brilliant idea Cliff! As these windows are quite flat I will stick with clear sheet for this one, but I will bear that in mind for when I get stuck in future.

13 minutes ago, CedB said:

Or some of this stuff that I've used successfully for landing light covers?

I have the old diamond clear stuff (and it’s good to know there is now a replacement) but I only use it for enclosed landing light covers because of dust. I’m not the tidiest of modellers and I can imagine a sticky window quickly getting coated with dust, shavings, fingernail clippings, tea leaves etc etc...

 

Meanwhile I had a spares box equivalent of a trip to Ikea without the five hour wait and found some suitable chairs, two FROG and one Airfix:

E15-B6087-AD89-415-B-B51-B-097206233-D81

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And back to chairs:

FC9-DD760-B020-4-DFB-BFBD-F6-C6-C7380-E7

 

Every walk around I’ve seen of a Hudson has light green leather on the chairs, so I've reluctantly parked Hu 70 and 63.

5 minutes ago, modelling minion said:

miss out on the meatballs.

That reminds me - lunchtime! And curiously enough, I have a bit of tagliatelle and pork meatballs left over from last night! So if I then push a trolley in zigzag fashion through every room in the house many times over, that should complete the experience!

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