Delahaye 135 (Henri Chapron coach builder) by Heller 1/24 scale

[Hamden]

 

Chrome wires always look good on any car, which ever you choose will look stunning!

 

    Stay safe          Roger

[Pouln]

I think that you should go with the set that looks best to you. Your the one who will be looking at them for many years to come.

Both will do good imo.

[CrazyCrank]

Good evening Gentlemen

 

Since the varnish is drying on the MB's bonnet  and I can't do anything else on this project, I've moved on the Delahaye.

 

So I've airbrushed the Blue light color Tamiya TS 55 (I had previously decanted it into a jar) on the body shell and on the four parts of the bonnet.

The first job has been time consuming: masking the parts of the body shell which will be painted dark blue.

One very light coat has been given flirts and then 2 mist coats.

 

 

  

 

 

I've to let the paint cure deeply, until tomorrow morning before giving it a slight sanding to smooth the surface and remove one or two dust particles.

Then a third thick coat will be applied...

 

Stay tuned if you like

 

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Good evening guys

 

A little progress tonight on this one:

- Have unmasked

- And then re-masked the light blue parts

- And finally sprayed the dark blue.

- And at least, unmasked the job.

 

Some touch ups have been necessary, the masking tape didn't cover perfectly the surface on some places, where there was relief, as for instance, around door handles etc.

 

During the last  unmasking, the front left fender got unstuck from the body shell.

Fortunately I've managed to fix it with CA glue without damaging the paint.

The next operations that will require a lot of handling, such as sanding or polishing paint or varnish, are likely to be complicated or even risky ☹️

 

  

 

  

 

Regarding this paint, although I thinned it 50/50 due to the outside temperature, it took on a grainy appearance.

 

After sanding the paint to soften it , and before spraying the clear, it will remain to:

 

- put the chromed protections on the front of the 2 rear fenders: this will be made with BMF Chrome

- Hand paint all the half-shells on the 2 vertical parts of the bonnet in dark blue

- put BMF Chrome on the tiny strips placed above and behind the half-shells rows

- Put BMF chrome on the door handles and door hinges

 

Stay tuned if you like for next steps at the beginning of July

 

[rob Lyttle]

Hi CrazyCrank 

The bodywork is looking good, and the bonnet hinge assembly 👍

Have you been doing trial fittings with the front grille in place? That final fit of the bonnet parts at the front can be "challenging". 

I found I had to dismantle my central hinge, remove a tapering strip from each central edge to make the whole assembly narrowed by around 2mm at the front, and remake the hinge. 

I expect you have mastered the situation already, but I'd hate for you to be carving plastic at the last minute! 

As for which wire wheels to use, I think you'll have to leave the decision to later when you can fit either type to a more complete car, and see which suits the style more.

There certainly seems to be a lot of chrome wheels on the restored cars. 

[CrazyCrank]

17 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

Hi CrazyCrank 

The bodywork is looking good, and the bonnet hinge assembly 👍

Have you been doing trial fittings with the front grille in place? That final fit of the bonnet parts at the front can be "challenging". 

I found I had to dismantle my central hinge, remove a tapering strip from each central edge to make the whole assembly narrowed by around 2mm at the front, and remake the hinge. 

 

 

I’ve also found some fitting issues between the front grill and the thin triangular parts with which join the vertical parts of the bonnet, but not yours and I’m not sure to unferstand correctly what you mean.
It would help if you could draw a little sketch to explain precisely what tou did.

 

[rob Lyttle]

On 21/06/2021 at 17:19, CrazyCrank said:

draw a little sketch

Plan view of right hand bonnet - 

I had to reduce "X" on both pieces to bring the sides in. 

If you recall I made Ali hinges with a wire through. To attach the bonnet assembly I fixed pieces of tube in the firewall and on top of the grill to take the ends of the wire . 

 

I took the front tube off again to sort the problem, and you can see here where the hinge wire is when the bonnet side is against the grill.... 

But the rear of the bonnet is a good fit on the bulkhead. 

So I narrowed the bonnet by cutting the centre hinge faces as in the diagram, that is I reduced "X", and then rebuilt the hinge. It was the only solution for the plastic I got. 

And I've seen a few other builds on Heller Forever etc struggling with these parts. 👍

[rob Lyttle]

On 21/06/2021 at 17:19, CrazyCrank said:

some fitting issues between the front grill and the thin triangular parts

Yes Thierry, they were trouble! 

I remember pulling them apart after following the instructions, and doing it my own way. 

I made these joints..... 

..... and let them set before the rest of the assembly. 

Here's a picture of the fit situation before I narrowed the front, 

With the left side aligned against the grill piece, you can see the hinge wire is pushed to the right of the centre line and all the surplus is hanging out on the right. I knew it wasn't my hinge that was the causing the problem because the rear of the bonnet was fitting over the bulkhead nicely and my hinge was the same front to back. 

[CrazyCrank]

18 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

Yes Thierry, they were trouble! 

I remember pulling them apart after following the instructions, and doing it my own way. 

I made these joints..... 

..... and let them set before the rest of the assembly. 

Here's a picture of the fit situation before I narrowed the front, 

With the left side aligned against the grill piece, you can see the hinge wire is pushed to the right of the centre line and all the surplus is hanging out on the right. I knew it wasn't my hinge that was the causing the problem because the rear of the bonnet was fitting over the bulkhead nicely and my hinge was the same front to back. 

ok Rob

I’ll take a look at  this assembly next monday

thanks for the explanations

[CrazyCrank]

Good evening gentlemen

 

Just got back home after some sunny holidays.

 

To answer @rob Lyttle questions:

Very curiously, I haven't any problem when I test fit my bonnet with the font grill. In all events, I haven't the one you had to face with, as described a few posts above.

You could check it for yourself, looking at the pictures below (very quick test fit with 4 strips of masking tape...I haven't search the perfection !)

 

  

 

  

 

 

In my humble opinion, all the difficulties are provided by the 2 triangular thin parts of the bonnet which are attached both on the chassis and on the front fenders.

The front part of these 2 parts is wrong, and has to be trimmed  and shaped.

Also, it is very important to test, adjust and keep the right angle between the front grill and the front fenders.

This angle impacts directly which angle you get between the grill and the horizontal parts of the bonnet: too acute angle or too open angle don't allow a correct position of the bonnet and leads - imho - to the issue you had to manage.

 

Probably, I could face different issues than yours with this front part of the car, as many threads, here and there on the Net, mention numerous difficulties to assemble these parts.

I don't know any other kit, even in Heller's collection, which would be that difficult to build than this one.

 

See you soon for next adventures with this Delahaye 135

 

[rob Lyttle]

That's good news! It all looks good there 👍

I'm reading with interest what you say about the construction. You could well be right. It's a complicated, 3 dimensional puzzle getting all the pieces aligned and fitting. Plenty of opportunities to get something out of alignment. 

[CrazyCrank]

16 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

That's good news! It all looks good there 👍

I'm reading with interest what you say about the construction. You could well be right. It's a complicated, 3 dimensional puzzle getting all the pieces aligned and fitting. Plenty of opportunities to get something out of alignment. 

 

Definitely Heller's kits are not dedicated to beginners if the goal is to get a correct assembly and a good finish !

[CrazyCrank]

Evening chaps

 

Today I touched up the light blue paint on the body shell; and it remains to do the same thing for the dark blue, because after sanding the grainy aspect, the grey primer appeared here and there, particularly on the edges, of course.

I've also been unintentionallly busy repairing the bonnet, from which one hinge unstuck...and of course, while doing that, I spoiled the paint, so I redid it.

 

Not going to bore you with photos of that job.

 

But on the other hand, I've made some progress today, painting the front grille and  radiator guard, taking inspiration, as usual, from this picture:

 

 

And I tried to do the same thing:

 

  

 

  

 

I believe the colors match very well with those of the real car, and I think that my rendering  is very close.

 

Anyway, I'm happy with the result.

I've now to let the paint dry at least 2 weeks, because I used Molotov Liquid Chrome, and it must be totally dry before spraying any clear on it (I've planned to use Alclad Klear Kote Gloss, which seems to be the best choice to avoid dulling, if I believe the many feebacks I read)

 

Tomorrow will be another day, stay tuned if you. like 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Good afternoon gentlemen

 

While my paint is drying, I've done some jobs.

 

First, I've enhanced the dashboard, using transparent UV curing resin (used by manicurist for lady's nails ) to give the illusion of a domed glass over the gauges.

The outcome is satisfactory, with more relief and brightness

 

 

Second, I wasn't happy with the inside panels which include door's inside, glasses etc.

In fact, when testing the placement of the inner panel in the body interior, and looking at the door from the outside, the upper strip of the wooden frame surrounding the inner part of the door can be seen clearly protruding upwards, where there should only be the glass.

Furthermore, the quality of Heller's car parts  leaves a lot to be desired.

 

 

So, I've taken the spare parts I've in the second kit - the 2 clear parts which will be the inner panels-,  and patiently removed the whole part corresponding to the windows.

These will be replaced by pieces of transparent plastic sheet, much thinner, and I will show the windows half open, so that one can look inside the car.

I've obviously to redo the painting job: blue panels and then paint simulating mahogany burl on the wooden frame.

The first steps are just achieved (Blue paint and Mahogany base)

 

 

Stay tuned if you like

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Good evening guys

 

No progress today on the interior panels because the paint is not dry; however, I made good progress on the bodywork, finishing the dark blue paint on the front and rear fenders. I'm very satisfied with the result because the paint is as soft and silky as a baby's skin.

I also painted the spare wheel housing cover.

 

So, here is where I am tonight:

 

  

 

 

I can't wait to put the varnish on the body and enjoy the result 🤗

 

Stay tuned if you like 😉

[rob Lyttle]

Looking superb, this is a great scheme! 

The reference picture you posted above, a few days ago, looks great with dark spokes and whitewall tyres. Very nice (and additional indication lights etc 🤠). Were you thinking of doing the whitewall paint job? 

 

And that dashboard is a beauty, well and truly enhanced. So the open side windows is a good idea. 

Edited June 30, 2021 by rob Lyttle
Addition

[CrazyCrank]

On 7/1/2021 at 1:54 AM, rob Lyttle said:

Looking superb, this is a great scheme! 

The reference picture you posted above, a few days ago, looks great with dark spokes and whitewall tyres. Very nice (and additional indication lights etc 🤠). Were you thinking of doing the whitewall paint job? 

 

And that dashboard is a beauty, well and truly enhanced. So the open side windows is a good idea. 

Thanks a lot Rob

I'm still hesitating between dark blue wheels and chromed ones, so, no decision about whitewall tyres

 

[CrazyCrank]

Evening gentlemen

 

A bit of progress today wit the beginning of the clear coating job, using Alclad Klear Kote Gloss

 

I've already sprayed the chromed wheels, the front grill, the bonnet and the spare wheel cover:

 

   

 

  

 

 

I've also begun the clear job for the body with 2 light coats, but, I've to stop the process:

Indeed, without talking of the inevitable dust particles which I'll remove with a slight sanding, the clear has revealed some imperfections:

- There's a lack of dark blue paint on the top of the left front fender: you could hardly see it on the third photo below...

- On the right door, there was 2 micro-spots of dark blue that I saw after the first layer od clear. I intended to fix this with a little blue paint touch up, using a tiny brush. It seemed to be OK, but after the second clear layer, it was worth !

- A brown big dust stuck one the right door, that has to be sanded

 

 

 

 

So, I've to wait until tomorrow morning before sanding where there's dust and new masking/painting job.

Nothing really difficult to repair, but it will be time consuming.

 

See you tomorrow for next episode

 

[Prop Duster]

What a grand job of creative modeling. Bravo. 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Evening mates

 

Well, re-paint job done today on the right door and the left front fender:

 

  

 

I've also applied the clear coat on the wooden frames of the inner panels - A lot of work remains to do on them (Molotov Chrome in the handles and cranks, scratching glove boxes and new glasses etc.)

 

 

And put 2 decals, one on the front grill, the other on the spare wheel cover.

A new coat of gloss clear will be put tomorrow on the grill, to fix the decal and make the emblem shinier  

 

  

 

Have to wait now until at least tomorrow afternoon before spraying another coat of varnish on the body.

 

Stay tuned if you like

 

[CrazyCrank]

Evening guys

 

One day isn't the same as the next, but "in paint, there's still and always pain" !

 

I've an issue with my clear coat:

 

Very curiously, but fortunately,  it has dried correctly in less than 1 hour and begun hard after 24 on the bonnet, the grill and the spare wheel cover: nothing but normal !

 

However, for the main body the varnish, after 48 hours, is still a bit sticky, like gum, on the left rear fender, the left door, the roof and the windows frames, but not on the rear trunk nor on the other 3 fenders !

I put the body in the oven at 50°C for 3 hours but that didn't change anything.

 

It could be that if I got angry, I would put all this mess in a bath of brake fluid to strip clear, paint and primer !
I will remain reasonable, and I'm going to give it a chance, waiting several days, 1 week maximum, hoping it will eventually harden....but I'm pessimistic.

So I started, with my second kit, to assemble a new body, and this one will be cleared with Zero Paint 2K Diamond Finish, like the MB 300SL.

Of course, it dries slower and remains sensitive to dust for at least 1 hour, but it dries well!

 

The first of the two bodies whose varnish is dry and polishable will win the race et will be used to go on with this build

 

Stay tuned for next misadventures

 

[CrazyCrank]

Good evening guys

 

Bodywork masked and primed.

I used a primer that is a bit difficult to get at the moment because of the BREXIT, the ZERO PAINT Grey Primer.
It costs an arm and a leg to apply (it's very thick and thickens very quickly in the cup, clogging the airbrushes in no time, so I have to dilute it with Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner, even though it's supposed to be ready to use, and to dilute only with the brand's thinner)
The recommended pressure is 20 to 40 PSI, that's all.
But the result is amazing, with exceptional smoothness and fineness after 3 layers.

 

So here is where I am tonight:

 

 

Tomorrow, if everything goes well, I'll glue the front fenders on the body, I'll reinforce the whole thing with plastic card, and tomorrow afternoon, I could start the masking work again to paint the two blue tones; but possibly not before next week, because my grand-daughters arrive tomorrow evening  for their holidays and there's no way I won't take care of them, nor spray toxic products all over the house while they're here!

 

Ah, the varnish on the first car body still sticks as much as yesterday...for me, it's dead!

 

See you soon for those who follow and thanks for watching  😎

 

 

 

[rob Lyttle]

Hang in there, CrazyCrank, this'll come good in the end 😎👍

I'm now going to ask the obvious question..... Go easy on me...... 😃

Why don't you paint the front fender piece in it's colour before glueing up and then having to mask to keep the 2 colours separate? 

I could say the same about the rear. Mudguards I guess, but that's a bit more tricky for assembly. 

I never did make a glue joint where the front fenders meets the bodywork. Instead I inserted a piece of wire in the starting handle position and let it go through the hole in the grille to hold the front up. This is to give maximum adjustment for the fitting of the front with the bonnet assembly I may get around to glueing now that I know the assembly works, but not so far 🤠

[CrazyCrank]

3 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

Hang in there, CrazyCrank, this'll come good in the end 😎👍

I'm now going to ask the obvious question..... Go easy on me...... 😃

Why don't you paint the front fender piece in it's colour before glueing up and then having to mask to keep the 2 colours separate? 

I could say the same about the rear. Mudguards I guess, but that's a bit more tricky for assembly. 

I never did make a glue joint where the front fenders meets the bodywork. Instead I inserted a piece of wire in the starting handle position and let it go through the hole in the grille to hold the front up. This is to give maximum adjustment for the fitting of the front with the bonnet assembly I may get around to glueing now that I know the assembly works, but not so far 🤠

Interesting idea, but not my way, and too late though.

 

The second bodyshell assembly is finished and primed.

I have to say I'm almost glad I had a problem with the first one, because finally, after the first assembly, the second one is better.

And I changed my primer, using the famous Zero Paint Grey Filler primer, which didn't give me any problem on other bodies, and which is already dry, hard as a rock and silky as a baby skin.
My structure lines (door surrounds, trunk lid and windshield vent) are better re-greased, cleaner.
As a result, the preparation of the paintwork, an essential phase, is all the better.

 

 

 

 

  

 

I'm leaving it all alone for now as I wrote yesterday because one of my granddaughters just arrived home for a few days of holidays, and on one hand, she'll have priority and all my attention, on the other hand, there's no way I'm going to spray a bunch of toxic crap when she's home, even with a paint booth and a good vacuum.

 

The varnish on the first body is still sticky, after 96 hours.... I betrayed my promise and tonight I threw the mess in a brake fluid bath without further delay.

Don't mess with me!

 

I think there was potential compatibility problems between primer, paint and varnish of different brands.
The primer of my first body was too thick, I had applied several coats of a lambda brand primer for automotive plastics during the sanding and masking work, then an AK brand finishing primer, which usually doesn't cause any problems, and Tamiya paints, then an ALCLAD varnish.
This may not have been the cause of my issue with the varnish, since on some parts it was already dry and hard within 48 hours, and on others not.
But it could have contributed to it.

 

So for this 2nd body:
- ZERO Paint primer, compatible with all major brands of paint and varnish: DONE
- Tamiya Lacquers paint (same thinner as the primer)
- And ZERO PAINT 2K CLEAR Diamond Finish

 

Who will live, will see!

 

I'm not necessarily an optimist, but I'm a Boxer...when I bite, I don't let go!
 

See you later fo next adventure

 

[kpnuts]

Superb work going on here.