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Delahaye 135 (Henri Chapron coach builder) by Heller 1/24 scale


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Good afternoon gentlemen :)

 

 Waiting a complete reorganization of my workshop, in order to continue my LadyBug build, and because containment don't allow me to do other interesting things, I've decided to begin this new projet.

 

I'm probably a masochist to go on with such poor quality and difficult to assemble Heller kits, but this car is one of the most emblematic of the perfection that reached French manufacturers and coach builders between 1920 and 1960...

Design perfection , mechanical perfection, luxury perfection !

 

I built my first copy of this model car about 45 years ago. At this time, we didn't have Internet, and I had no special documentation, and only very simple tools....and honestly, I didn't search perfection, only fun moments !

Pity, this copy, as the numerous Heller and Monogram car kits I built in this era, has been lost over my successive movings.

 

Hereunder, some pictures of the box art, and of assembly instructions.

 

49768140588_c375ec7bb2_b.jpg   49768140493_4f33885436_b.jpg

 

49768997272_452ddb7d2a_c.jpg   49768140478_aa34eaf2e8_c.jpg 49768673246_903f7c6689_c.jpg  

 

49768140498_48b680a11c_c.jpg   49768140473_e86793924a_c.jpg   49768140563_0a2ed08b24_c.jpg

 

49768673171_8a1f6b5c90_c.jpg   49768140468_6b343a3776_c.jpg   49768140553_3952920a79_c.jpg

 

49768673341_cf08134cbb_c.jpg   49768673116_3d57e5aa07_c.jpg   49768997247_065e52dd14_c.jpg

 

49768673311_1b9146faae_c.jpg   49768997252_1a5c164318_c.jpg   49768140413_914ef114cc_c.jpg

 

My goal with this build:

 

- Overcome the difficulties of the build, due to a very bad adjustment of the numerous body parts

- if possible, make articulated bonnets and trunk lid as on the Talbot Lago Record, in order to show, or not, the engine bay and the trunk interior

- Improve the cabin and engine bay detailing

- Replace the windows with better ones

 

Which colors for the body and upholstery ?...these ones !

 

49769226987_313118182a_b.jpg   49768369123_cffcfee82c_b.jpg`

 

49768369173_d66889c9ae_b.jpg   49768369058_ef346fdc1a_b.jpg

 

And for the engine bay:

 

49768903766_009c36162e_b.jpg

 

A bit ambitious, isn't it ?

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching :)

 

 

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Outstanding looking car I will follow along if you don't mind? I like the cars from this era such fine stilling.

 

  Stay safe             Roger

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Evening chaps :)

 

Work has begun on this old beauty, on which I'm going to do a vigorous skin lifting :)

 

Sorry if I'm chatty 😉

 

On the chassis:

 

Chassis frame has been assembled, primed and satin black painted.

Before, a long  time consuming sealing, filing and sanding had been necessary.

The lower side of this frame is very finely detailed, as you could see on the pictures below:

 

49777690563_87134fbca5_b.jpg   49778222046_edd7a549f2_b.jpg

 

It's also the case for the engine:

 

49778553537_0a108a224c_c.jpg   49777690598_70011c9b97_c.jpg

 

Here, you can see that I've ut off two plastic nuts on the engine valve cover, and replaced them with two needle heads

 

49778589827_6dafea8682_c.jpg

 

On this engine block, only the engine oil pan will keep its satin black color, the rest would be gloss clear coated, to get a shiny black.

 

 

The bulk of work since two days has been on the different body parts.

 

If you intend to follow  assembly instructions to build this body shell, as did some French modelers, you'll experiment, like them,  very strong disillusions, because nothing match correctly ! ...Remember , it's a Heller kit !

 

So, I've decided to glue the different parts of the front fenders, and the different parts of the main shell and rear fenders, and then all these parts together, doing on this way many dry fits, in order to avoid a disaster later on, when mounting the body over the chassis

The assembled parts fit rather correctly, but, again, sealing, filing and sanding stages have been necessary, and are not yet achieved.

 

 

There the matter rests:

 

49778221946_7e76a10e68_c.jpg   49777690538_a371878f99_c.jpg

 

49777690553_29b66e7820_c.jpg   49778553527_008d306f2a_c.jpg   49778222036_379ce9b69d_c.jpg

 

My Tamiya scriber blade has broken, so I can't at the moment  dig the structure lines, and I've ordered a new one, amongst several other tools and hardware...

 

Stay tuned if you like :)😉

 

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Evening gentlemen :)

 

A littler bit of progress today

 

I've assembled the gearbox and the rear axle and primed them:

 

49790077541_4b308c5f8b_c.jpg   49790393512_a7a0e6f916_c.jpg

 

As you can see, the adjustment of the two parts of the rear axle is far to be correct, but It's the kit's fault, not mine.... It's a Heller kit 🤥

 

I was about to prime the belts and pulley system (fan and alternator) when this part broke, and I lost the alternator, so, I've had to scratch built a new one.

 

At the moment, it's not finished  but I'm on a good way to :)

 

How did I make it:

 

- A razor saw

- Styrene squared rush 0.25 x 0.25 mm

- Styrene tube diameter 3.8

- Styrene tube diameter 2.3

- Glue

- Magnifying glasses

- Tamiya liquid primer and white putty

- Several tries

- Several hours of great patience

 

49790077701_bbaf4fe840_z.jpg

 

1/ Cut off a 11 mm section of each tube

2/ Threaded the small tube into the bigger one, and glued them

3/ At one end of the set I got, I've rolled and glued 3 spirals of the tiny rush, in order to increase the diameter of 0.5 mm

4/ At this same end, I've then glued two spirals of the rush, separated by a 0.25 mm width and 0.25 mm deep, so simulating the flanks and the groove of the alternator's pulley

5/ Then, sealing with liquid primer and putty

 

And I've got this:

 

49790393527_e73ee82592_z.jpg   49789534498_45bef57d61_c.jpg

 

49790077641_05c4e6f403_z.jpg   49789534478_00a9eb6441_z.jpg

 

Once sanded, primed , glued on the belts system and painted gloss black, nobody will ever see anything, except me of course.

 

 

Meanwhile the complete drying, I've had the crazy idea to make a turning  propeller fan, so...

 

- I used a 1.02 diameter brass tube

- cut of the pin of the fan

- drilled the center of the fan with a 0.6 drill bit

- Cut off a short section of a headed pin, threaded it through the fan,  and glued it in the brass tube.

 

And I got a turning fan !

 

49790077451_82c8942ab5_z.jpg

 

 

My wife helped me for this video and accepted to interrupt her embroidery work, to blow on the fan in order to move it !

 

On a 1/24 scale model, it's basically useless, but it was funny to do it :)

 

Next post: priming and sanding of the body shell and fenders

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

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1 hour ago, CrazyCrank said:

I've assembled the gearbox and the rear axle and primed them:

 

   49790393512_a7a0e6f916_c.jpg

 

As you can see, the adjustment of the two parts of the rear axle is far to be correct, but It's the kit's fault, not mine.... It's a Heller kit 🤥

As the real differential housing would be a two piece casting bolted together in the same place as the seam on the plastic parts, I do wonder if Heller have got it right, as there would presumably be a visible seam there on the real car?

Edited by Paul H
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12 hours ago, Paul H said:

As the real differential housing would be a two piece casting bolted together in the same place as the seam on the plastic parts, I do wonder if Heller have got it right, as there would presumably be a visible seam there on the real car?

Yes @Paul H, you're right, there is a seam, BUT, the issue is that the housing of the bolts are not aligned !

As you ca see, the 3 ones on the top of the case , on this photo, are aligned, but bot the 2 lower !

 

At this scale, impossible to manage this without running the risk of ruining the whole set, so...

 

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Morning chaps :)

 

A little bit of progress on the engine today.

 

Alternator fixed on the belt and pulleys system, this set and the gearbox glued on the engine block.

The engine has been sprayed satin black, then semi-gloss cleared.

The head of the pulley's axles have been simulated by the head of headed pins

The belt has been painted then matt black

And at least, the engine valve cover and the fan has been gloss clear coated.

 

49791773498_3ff5f0f560_z.jpg   49791773493_300335632c_z.jpg

 

49791773503_ee899db565_z.jpg

 

Notice please that this pictures do not justice to the engine.

The gloss clear has just been put (brushed and not sprayed), so, it hasn't had time to cure and looks very thick

 

It remains to paint the oil filler cap with Molotov Chrome, before going on the engine build  with carburetors, exhaust manifold, distributor and other tiny stuff


Then will come the moment of scratch building,  to enhance the rendering.

 

I've planed to scratch, if possible (very ambitious at this scale):

 

- Distributor and spark plugs wiring, with a "flute" to guide all the spaghettis :)

- Fuel feed line

- Throttle linkage 

 

49792469376_f7ec99776a_c.jpg   49792469406_a487ef27bc_c.jpg

 

And will come too, the time for weathering this engine:

 

- Streams of used motor oil

- dust everywhere  and rust over the exhaust manifold.

 

This beauty has recorded many kilometers, so the engine bay and engine can't be as clean than they were when the chassis got out the manufactory's workshop !

 

BUT, she's carefully maintained, and the body should be in perfect appearance, another challenge for me !

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank
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Evening Gentlemen :)

 

Waiting for some hardware and piping I've ordered on a Czech website...these materials will be used for enhance the engine detailing .

 

So, meanwhile, I've made a bit of progress over the chassis, assembling the rear suspension (leaf springs, and shock absorbers)

 

49805694873_c510b818eb_b.jpg

 

49805694828_14c87f28b4_c.jpg   49805694898_1aa9f0fb32_c.jpg. 49806247436_75870ac3fb_c.jpg

 

The rear axle with rear gearbox has been painted and cleared, it's waiting for its weathering:

 

49806561462_71d976d74d_c.jpg[

 

 

I've also worked on beginning the assembly of front axle and  steering linkage.

 

It hasn't be easy because the parts are very tiny, the plastic very thin and very fragile, and one piece of the linkage has broken when I cut it off the sprue...

So, micro-drilling job with 0.2, then 0.4 drill bits in the center of 0.9 mm plastic rod parts, over 1.5 mm depth for each part of the broken piece, and internal strengthening with a 0.4 mm brass rod, threaded in the holes and CA glued !

Once painted, it's barely visible :)

 

49806247411_ac8b033257_c.jpg

 

The main body and front fenders has been primed, in order to easily scrutinize for surface imperfections...

 

The was loads of them, and a tedious job of sanding, surfacing, sealing , new priming, several times...has been necessary.

At the moment, I only begin to be happy with the surface state, and it remained this afternoon some imperfections, which I've sanded and sealed another time wit Tamiya liquid primer:

 

49806247526_6ba448fa96_b.jpg   49805695118_f60604429c_b.jpg

 

49806247456_407fbce252_b.jpg   49806247506_e67f21a8b3_b.jpg

 

At least, I've received the two paint cans I'd ordered, And I'm happy with my choices:

 

49806253851_53b4041fa7_b.jpg

 

The TS 58 Pearl light blue doesn't match perfectly with the light blue of the real car I showed in my first post, but I thing it will be perfectly convenient :)

 

Have a nice evening, and stay tuned if you like :)

 

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1 minute ago, Codger said:

Great work on a tough subject Thierry. I love the TS light blue; used it on my GT-40 and it has a sheen/glow rather than a hard reflective shine - unless you clear it after.

COVER-A.jpg

 

Yes, Chase, the body will be gloss cleared and polished :)

Vey nice color for a fantastic and mythical car 🤩

 

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Good evening, gentlemen :)

 

A bit of progress since Wednesday , on the chassis and on the body

 

 

Front axle and steering linkage  achieved, painted and a bit weathered

 

49822849512_f08cfff022_c.jpg  49822947392_d14a6a26e6_b.jpg

 

49822095723_9f1fc71212_c.jpg

 

 

Rear axle glued in place and a bit weathered too

 

49822536526_1ebed8f30f_c.jpg   49822947372_ea1d40ec3a_c.jpg

 

 

Still waiting for my goods from Czech Republica, I can't make any progress on the engine, I'm expecting a delivery on net Tuesday 

 

 

So, I've went on the shaping, priming and surfacing of the body shell and front fenders; and I'm now perfectly happy with the result.

 

Each front fender count two parts, glued together, and I managed to ensure that it's not visible:

 

49822975927_d5ab551e7d_z.jpg   49822660801_40b1a633e6_z.jpg

 

49822123933_50f2576135_z.jpg   49822660901_9689dd1e44_z.jpg

 

The same thing for rear fenders:

 

49822976097_e6bd724b39_z.jpg   49822660911_7f41f93313_z.jpg

 

49822123943_557932d2c9_z.jpg   49822975982_3658cc1561_c.jpg

 

49822976087_e332949e3b_c.jpg   49822975832_c92efdeef2_c.jpg

 

 

A lot of work remains however.

 

There's still 5 parts I've to work on:

 

- the two half-bonnets

- the spare wheel's cover

- and the joining parts between the chassis and the vertical parts of the bonnets.

 

49822660866_82a3a2eb62_c.jpg

 

A lot of work for adjusting all this stuff is needed, because it's a Heller kit, you know ?, and nothing fit properly, so, many dry fitting and parts correcting to do before  the painting job.

Which will not be a small issue, due to the two colors to use, and a lot of masking job to do.

 

 

As I'm a bit Crazy, as you know, I think I'll intend to build an opening bonnet, in order to show or hide the engine bay.

 

So, I've thought about how I can do to articulate on a easy way the vertical and the horizontal parts of each half bonnet .

Yes, I would like to cut each half bonnet into 2 separated and articulated parts !

 

First, the easier job: fabrication of a hinge:

- 0.82 mm outer diameter brass tube, inner diameter 0.42 mm

- 0.15 mm thick brass sheet

- Surgical clamps (Kocher forceps)

- soldering tin/copper paste  and a Proton blowtorch

- piano wire 0.4 mm

 

The length of the hinge must be approximately 50 mm, and I've made 2 length of 25 mm.

How ?

- Cut a plate of 30 mm length and 2 mm wide in the brass sheet

- cut a 25 mm length of brass tube

- Thread the tube with a 30 mm length piano wire; why ? because next, the clamps which tighten the tube over the plate during soldering process cannot crush the tube, since it is  filled with the rod !

- Clamp the rod over the plate and solder it

- Then, reduce the width of the plate to 1 mm max


And you get this:

 

49822660511_5363a12a2f_c.jpg   49822660291_d6da28892a_c.jpg

 

What I don't know at the moment is weather I'll make the hinge with these two 25 mm parts , each one fixed on one side of the articulated half-bonnet, or if I'll cut each 25 mm section in five 5 mm sections, in order  with this last choice, to get a stronger hinge.

I musts sleep on it.

 

49822583513_c2ed39f0ea_c.jpg

 

And in fact, I've made, preliminary, this hinge, But, I don't know if I'll have the ball to cut each half bonnet with my razor saw !

The slightest error during cutting, and I'll have to purchase a second kit 😲

 

49822123898_b7f1cff790_b.jpg

 

what a dilemma 🤔

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching :)

 

 

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I've always loved the level of detail on these Heller kits, which has always helped me forgive their flaws.  Your progress with this and detailed write-up is always a great read!

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The body looks very good Mr. Crank! 

 

I don't envy your decision on cutting the bonnet ... You know what, Heller must be used to you buying spare kits by now 😉 

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Hi chaps :)

 

I've received a part of my order from Czech Republic , namely Hobby Design 0.38 mm wired red and brownish red, and MFH P-957 Color tube Clear 0.3 mm

 

This allow me to begin the engine detailing :)

- Color Clear tube will be used to simulate Fuel Feed Lines

- And red (or brownish red, I'm hesitating)  wire to simulate  spark plug leads

 

But before wiring the 6 spark plugs, I've had to scratch built a "flute", to guide and organize all that spaghettis

 

As for the Talbot, we need:

- For the flute, a 21 mm length 1.3 mm outer diameter brass tube

- For the mounting brackets, 0.4mm brass rod

- Drill bits 0.4 mm

- Soldering paste and a blowing torch

- Some diamond needle files

 

And he result is there:

 

49833442721_c987f2cb5c_c.jpg   49833442796_20dea919d9_c.jpg

 

49832908038_6df7a105a2_c.jpg   49833442756_92da3360de_c.jpg

 

It remains to nickel plating the flute and then, the assembly, wearing magnifying glasses, could start :)

 

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Evening Chaps :)

 

Well, I couldn't resist to cut each half-bonnet in 2 parts, in order to articulate them.

So....

 

49834933101_fc8285a1dd_c.jpg

 

I've glued the first half-hinge in place with CA gel, on the vertical side of the half-bonnet, and let it dry a long time before glueing the second half-hinge on the horizontal part of the half-bonnet.

 

Why ? because, in order to align perfectly the 2 half-hinges, I've to join them with the piano-wire,  and make trials before glueing the second half-hinge, so, while handling, there would be a risk to unglue the 1st half-hinge if the bonding isn't strong enough .

 

49834432848_e7000abd3e_c.jpg

 

Meanwhile, I've begun to work on the firewall

 

It's made of 6 parts. It consists of two walls, front and rear, separated by the batteries housing

 

There was a lot of flash on the parts, and several ejection tips, that I've sanded and sealed


The front wall don't match at all with the truth, and, according to some reference pictures, found on the Internet, I've slightly modified it, cutting off some details to throw or move them, on another place, and I've scratched 3 new parts:

 

- a fuse box (Rectangular white styrene box)

- a horn (black plastic cylinder). It remains to scratch the trunk.

- A brake fluid tank (a brass tube and a brass rod threaded in, and soldered, the files, and glued with CA gel). It remains to scratch the steel retaining strap )

 

49834933111_39579cbb13_c.jpg   49835353922_fd0696af61_c.jpg

 

More scratched details to come later, and then painting job

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

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Hi Gentlemen :)

 

A little bit of progress today on the articulated bonnets 

 

The hinge between vertical and horizontal parts of the 1st half-bonnet has been made and glued in place

 

49841543552_f592d22e2b_c.jpg   49841543522_61a7eef624_c.jpg

 

Obviously, this will be sanded, sealed and primed, and then painted and clear coated.

 

It works fine:

 

 

 

It remains to do the same thing for the 2nd half-bonnet

 

 

The hinge between the 2 horizontal parts of the bonnets has been made too, with the same simplified process, because I don(t want to spend too much time  in fabricating a complicated piano hinge.

 

49841543522_61a7eef624_c.jpg   49841243451_821f2f5cb9_c.jpg

 

It remains to nickel plating it and glueing the 5 parts in place on the 2 half-bonnets

 

More to come soon :)

 

Stay tuned if you like😎

 

 

 

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The hinge between the 2 horizontal halves has been nickel plated, and a dry test fitting has been made, using Tamiya masking tape to stick the hinge at the bottom of the half-bonnets.

 

I'm nearly very happy with the result, very encouraging for the future and final assembly.

The nickel plating is far to be perfect, but I can live with this...

 

49842377196_4210db7fba_c.jpg

 

49842298151_48188f68ca_c.jpg

 

Now, I've to glue the second hinge between vertical and horizontal parts of the right half-bonnet.

I 'm progressing slowly but securely, and all this job is a bit tiring because done with magnifying glasses

 

The flute has been nickel plated too, but will get dirty later with the weathering 🤔

 

49842374051_5155eb7e6a_c.jpg

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

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