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Beemax Toyota Celica 1990 Safari Rally.


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Looking good Gary :) 

Nice simple scheme like you say, but striking as well, it will be a cracker :) 

I must admit, the decals in the Beemax S4 went on a treat, a bit thick, but you could move them around without fear of them ripping and they pulled down nicely with solution

 

Ian

 

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Nice decalling work there, particularly in getting those large red ones on so smoothly around the body contours. I'll second your comment about wishing modern rally cars had simpler colour schemes - there's some decals on the Fiesta I'm not lookign forwards to applying,

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Excellent work Gary, I'm interested in how these beemax kits go together as I've only had a play with the audi quattro so far. Glad to hear you've not had any issues with the decals so far, they look great. 

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12 minutes ago, pau10wen said:

Excellent work Gary, I'm interested in how these beemax kits go together as I've only had a play with the audi quattro so far. Glad to hear you've not had any issues with the decals so far, they look great. 

The two Beemax kits I’ve built so far have gone together really well . The instruction booklet can be a bit vague on certain part fitment, but usually dry fitting first solves the problem. Decals on both kits have been spot on , thick and go on with a perfect fit . Thanks for your interest, Gary .  

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2 hours ago, Windy37 said:

The instruction booklet can be a bit vague on certain part fitment, but usually dry fitting first solves the problem.   

I second that having only built the S4 and have the Quattro in the wings so to say :) 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ve ran into a few problems with the Celica build ..... Basically when I sprayed the body shell , I didn’t put the front bumper on . So when I built up the front bumper , another story , and then attached it to the car it was a different shade of white. So I took it off , stripped it down and then discovered I had run out of Halfords white that I sprayed the shell with .... 

  Now that other story...  The front bumper has been the worst piece to assemble. The lower cooling slots are awkward to paint in black and the pop up lights are made up of 4 separate pieces . The grille is in 2 pieces , the top being clear plastic to be painted black on the back . When all this is built , I then couldn’t get it to fit the car . The pop up lights wouldn’t go through the gaps for them at the end of the bonnet . I’ve mentioned before about the vague instructions , they seemingly showing you to put the lights on , then attach the bumper . Well , there’s no way they were going to fit the car , so I decided to remove them and try again . Success !!  But a frustrating time waste . 
  So now the bumper is on the car , a different shade of white , but I reckon when the front protection , spotlights and some decals are on it will mask the difference . 
   I ve also been painting the window rubbers and used the window masks to paint inside the windows. 
 

Front bumper built up , ready to fix to body shell . Then the fun began ....
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The vague instructions. Pop up lights onto bumper before fitting to car ?

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Bumper on , waiting for lights to be re fitted. 

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All rebuilt . 
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The horrible job of window rubber painting in progress . 
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Thanks for looking , Gary . 

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Nice work Gary, I seemingly missed a couple of your updates, but looking good. I think the Japanese text in the bottom left corner is probably telling you that you're about to run into trouble in this step 😉 

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Well done on overcoming the issues. I shouldn't worry too much about the white not being quite the same shade (it doesn't show in the photos) - white is the hardest colour to match after all, and it's quite probable that at some stage the front bumper on a rally car will have been replaced.

 

Also, not sure how you're finding those brushes, but I have some of the same and am not a fan - the bristles are a bit too long and prone to clumping. A better brush may help with the rubbers.

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Nice work despite your problems. I always use a little rubbing compound on a cotton bud to go around the grill openings once painted. It can remove any excess black paint and really neaten up any mistakes with the black. Or I sometimes use a wooden cocktail stick and simply scrape the excess black away..

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Thanks for your comments. The brushes I’m finding not too bad , Spiny. I’m using Humbrol satin black as I find it a better colour than Tamiya semi gloss black , which I find too glossy . The paint is quite thick , so I clean the brush after every three or four strokes . Laborious , but works for me . Brushes are from the Range , BTW
  Think I’ll try the cocktail stick method to tidy up excess paint , Steve . I’m finding my hands not as steady as it was in my earlier modelling career ! 

   Thanks for your interest, Gary .  

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Here’s some shots of the Celica masked up for body rubbing strip and window surround painting. Window masks are included in kit . This is my least favourite part of model car building. 
 Gary . 
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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got all the window rubbers and body rubbing strips painted black . Not my favourite part of the build this . There are decals for the rubbing strips which I didn’t use because I thought they looked too wide and trying to get them to conform to the corners .... well ... However , the rear bumper was a bit shabby , so I tried the appropriate decal and it looked fine . So I now wish I had used the decals and painted round the corners . You live and learn .  
   There is some UV filter and templates to cut and stick on the rear windows. This looks good and still allows you to be able to see into the car , unlike the chrome window tape that is used for sun filtering on modern rally cars . 
    I’ve fitted the body onto the chassis . I’m a bit a concerned the rollcage looks too low along the roof . This might be to allow for the windows , but hope it doesn’t spoil the look of the car . 
    Thanks for looking, Gary . 

UV filter on the inside of the windows.

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Tight fit in the back , reckon the actual cars would have carried a second spare wheel on top of the fuel tank . 
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The low rollcage can be seen here. 

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49978349127_458cbaed87_c_d.jpg

 

 

 


 

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8 hours ago, Steve Noble said:

Good progress. That UV film for the windows is weird looking stuff? I thought at first you'd sprayed that with the airbrush. Is that what you get in the kit then?

Yes , Steve it's in the kit . It's very thin and is prone to finger prints when applying! Tamiya make a Safari Celica and it is used in their kit too . 

  Gary . 

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38 minutes ago, Mr Mansfield said:

The detail is fantastic, I'm sure once the windows are in, the roll bar will look a much better fit

Thanks,  the window section is in and gluing as I type . It's needs weighting down to make the glue bind , so leaving it overnight. 

 Gary .  

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6 minutes ago, Windy37 said:

Thanks,  the window section is in and gluing as I type . It's needs weighting down to make the glue bind , so leaving it overnight. 

 Gary .  

I always use double sided carpet tape to fix the windows. It is a very strong bond, no glue can ooze out ruining the window and it's an instant bond, so no waiting for any glue to set...

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The problem was the clear plastic filled the whole interior roof , usually the clear goes just around the inside edge of the interior roof . So I didn't have anywhere to put on tape to pull the plastic down . Good tip for future though , Steve . 

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1 minute ago, Windy37 said:

The problem was the clear plastic filled the whole interior roof , usually the clear goes just around the inside edge of the interior roof . So I didn't have anywhere to put on tape to pull the plastic down . Good tip for future though , Steve . 

You can place a square of it on the inside of the roof and another square on the glass part. Put them together and they'll stick like you wouldn't believe..

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28 minutes ago, Steve Noble said:

You can place a square of it on the inside of the roof and another square on the glass part. Put them together and they'll stick like you wouldn't believe..

Your right,  sorry misread you use double sided tape ! 

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