shortCummins Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 Before applying the matt coat I first masked the “metal” exhaust plates. I’d decided that the “ridge” I’d created when masking the roundels needed lightly sanding however once I’d done this there was a “halo” of white around the outer blue ring. So I replaced the Montex mask and used Mr Masking Sol to cover the white and red and then gave the outer ring a quick blast of EDSG. I’m reasonably sure that I’ve coved a stencil or two but they were so small and difficult to see anyway I don’t think I’ll miss them? Vallejo Matt Acrylic was used to suck all of the shine out of the paint, masks removed… Next I’ll be starting the weathering proper. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marklo Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Looking very good so far. Must start spraying roundels haven’t been having much fun with decals lately. I must also get myself a Fury. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 2 hours ago, Marklo said: Looking very good so far. Must start spraying roundels haven’t been having much fun with decals lately. I must also get myself a Fury. thanks Marklo, painted markings take longer than decals however I think they look better, most decals are too "bright" for me but then I do prefer slightly grubby aircraft 😛 rgds John(shortCummins) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 Light “chipping” was added by way of a sponge and Tamiya XF-16 flat aluminium along the leading edge of the wing and lower part of the walkway. These are a bit “bright” at the moment but should “tone-down” as further weathering is applied, fingers crossed. I’m reasonably certain that the wing roots wouldn’t accumulate much mud, being based on an aircraft carrier, however I’m sure dust, grease and oil would be ground into the walkways and wing roots. So in order to suggest “wear” to the walkways, 502 Abteilung oil ABT001 white was spotted along each walkway… …these were then stippled, with a brush moistened with odourless thinner, in order to blend them against the black base. Once the odourless thinner had dried, to further suggest dirt and wear other 502 coloured oils, ABT002 sepia, ABT007 raw umber and ABT110 black were applied and blended in the same manner. These are all “dark” colours and will hopefully give the impression of accumulated “muck”. Next I’ll be carrying on with some more “oils”. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Nice weathering, I like the sponge method to achieve light wear rather than stripped paint. I’m a big fan of dirty wingroots, I have used mostly pastels and watercolour washes in the past but am starting to dabble with oils and gouache on a certain Spitfire. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 10 minutes ago, Biggles87 said: Nice weathering, I like the sponge method to achieve light wear rather than stripped paint. I’m a big fan of dirty wingroots, I have used mostly pastels and watercolour washes in the past but am starting to dabble with oils and gouache on a certain Spitfire. John thanks John, I think that pastels mimic mud, dust and dirt really well however I'm assuming that being based on a 'carrier there'd be little mud and more grease and oil so that's why I've chosen to use only oils in this instance. rgds John(shortCummins) PS I like what you've done with your Mk.VIII 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 For the underside/Sky “S” oils weathering I used 502 ABT006 burnt umber, ABT092 ocher and ABT260 oxide patina. These were dotted over various panels… …and then “streaked” rather than stippled. The streaks were then softened and blended by a large(ish) brush moistened with odourless thinner. Fuselage sides had ABT007 raw umber applied. EDSG was treated with ABT001 white which was also softened and blended with a moistened brush. Next I’ll be working on the exhaust staining. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 I like the fading, I’m going to have to try that on the Mk VIII. I have some water mixeable oil which I will try because I don’t like the idea of using smelly solvents. Is the odourless thinners just that, because although my sense of smell is almost non- existent , SWMBO is very sensitive and my man cave is directly below our bedroom. It looks like you’re nearly there now. Stay safe. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 2 hours ago, Biggles87 said: I like the fading, I’m going to have to try that on the Mk VIII. I have some water mixeable oil which I will try because I don’t like the idea of using smelly solvents. Is the odourless thinners just that, because although my sense of smell is almost non- existent , SWMBO is very sensitive and my man cave is directly below our bedroom. It looks like you’re nearly there now. Stay safe. John ha ha, I've got no sense.... of smell either, as a yoof I worked in an "ammonia rich environment" and it killed most of my smell and taste. Funnily enough I can still smell unpleasant things and some "nice" smells have changed, my wife's favourite perfume is Channel No.5, to me it now smells like damp mud, I can't smell any of her other perfumes!? ...and because it happened so long ago I can't even blame it on old age rgds John 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 24, 2020 Author Share Posted May 24, 2020 502 Abteilung oils were used to depict the exhaust stains. Dots of ABT006 burnt umber were applied and then streaked with a saw shaped weathering brush. I left the ABT006 for an hour or so to dry and then applied some dots of ABT001 white and streaked them with a thin brush. Next I’ll be working on the landing gear. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunny Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 Coming along nicely John - I may have to copy your stencil method! Cheers, Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 24, 2020 Author Share Posted May 24, 2020 4 hours ago, Dunny said: Coming along nicely John - I may have to copy your stencil method! Cheers, Roger Thanks Roger, feel free but it wasn't my idea, I can't remember where I saw it, it was some time ago, but I thought I'd give it a try as I was doing a two colour camo' and thought even I can't make too much of a mess of it? I'm sure there are 100's of modellers who are saying "but that's the obvious way of doing it!?" As I use acrylics there was quite a "ridge" between the letter/roundel and camo', perhaps if I were using enamels or lacquer then the "ridge" wouldn't be so pronounced? I'm going to try adding the markings after the camo', the "normal" way?, but spraying the camo' colours before the letter(s) or insignia as I'm convinced that using the "base" colour(s) as a "dam" is the way forward. rgds John(shortCummins) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 24, 2020 Author Share Posted May 24, 2020 Airfix have done a nice job with the wheels giving them a nicely weighted appearance. After the two halves of each wheel were glued the tire tread was cut into the join using a razor saw. The wheels were given a coat of Xtreme Metal AK479 aluminium Then a coat of Alkan “new rubber” black/grey Landing gear was painted with AK479 aluminium and then highlighted with Tamiya black panel liner. The wheel-well “masks” were removed… …and then given a coat of aqua gloss in preparation for some panel liner. I should really have done the “weathering” to the landing-gear bay before assembling the wing, next time I’ll remember!? Next I’ll be bolting on the landing gear. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 25, 2020 Author Share Posted May 25, 2020 Once the aqua gloss had dried I used Tamiya panel liner dark brown to highlight all of the nooks and crannies in the wheel wells. After the excess panel liner was removed the wheel wells were then given a matt coat. The wheel struts and covers were joined… …a fitted into the wheel wells… …along with the supporting struts. The pistons that I’d removed in order to use the “wheels up” covers as masks were reattached along with the other covers. More Tamiya panel liner, this time grey, was used on the tyres. These wheels were then fitted to the struts. The rear wheel and covers were attached… …and she was finally standing on her own feet. Next I’ll be building the prop’. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 26, 2020 Author Share Posted May 26, 2020 The propeller was given a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer. I’m reasonably sure that you’ll not be able to see the hub of the prop’ once the spinner is put on but just in case I’ve sprayed it AK Xtreme Metal AK479 aluminium. Tamiya XF-69 NATO black was used to spray the prop’ blades. To ensure that each “tip” is the same size I made a simple jig by punching a hole in a piece of paper, inserting the rod that I’m using to hold it and marking a line where I want the tip to be… …and then revolving the prop’ to the mark and apply the masking tape. Yellow tips were then first sprayed white… …and then Alkan yellow. The rear of the spinner was sprayed with Xtreme metal AK479 and then masked with Mr Masking sol. Then the spinner was given a coat of UMP/Stynylrez black primer. To give the impression of wear the upper part of the spinner was masked and a graphite pencil was used to create some streaks. Tamiya XF-16 flat aluminium was applied to the prop’ edges with a sponge to simulate chipping. 502 Abteilung ABT001 white was stippled onto the front of the prop’ blades to simulate wear. Then all the part were assembled… …and nailed onto the front of the aircraft Next I’ll be adding the under-wing stores. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 External fuel tank and camera pod. Decals applied Weathered with various 502 colours, ABT001 white, ABT007 raw umber & ABT092 ocher. Bombs painted Hobby Color H52 olive drab. The bombs were weathered with 502 ABT001 white & ABT010 faded yellow. Decals added Next I’ll be sorting out the rocket boosters. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 What an ingenious way to ensure that the yellow prop tips are equal. I usually do it with a pair of dividers which is a bit ‘hit and miss’ when the prop tips are not square, which is most of the time. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunny Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 John, I think the 'pre-marking' technique can be considered an outstanding success - I shall unashamedly adapt it for future reference! Build is looking awesome, can't wait for the final result... Cheers, Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 5 hours ago, Biggles87 said: What an ingenious way to ensure that the yellow prop tips are equal. I usually do it with a pair of dividers which is a bit ‘hit and miss’ when the prop tips are not square, which is most of the time. John thanks John, I can't take credit for the idea, I saw it on YouTube, unfortunately I can't remember who otherwise I'd credit them, simple is often best 4 hours ago, Dunny said: John, I think the 'pre-marking' technique can be considered an outstanding success - I shall unashamedly adapt it for future reference! Build is looking awesome, can't wait for the final result... Cheers, Roger thanks Roger, the only "issue" is the build up of paint at the edges, I may have been too enthusiastic with the amount of paint?, but the general principal works, using enamels or lacquers, as they tend to be thinner, would probably give less pronounced edges? rgds John(shortcummins) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 Rocket boosters were hollowed out… …and assembled. I should have painted these before assembly, next time!?, so for now I’ve started by giving them a coat of vallejo metal color 77.717 dull Aluminium. Then a coat of hairspray followed by Hobby Color H74 Sky. This was then “chipped”. I think I might have overdone the chipping however I’m sure these would have been really beaten-up if they’d been continually reused, being ejected at around 200mph and bouncing along an aircraft carrier deck? After a coat of matt 502 Abteilung ABT007 raw umber, ABT092 ocher and ABT260 oxide patina were stippled. Finally the booster nozzles were painted with vallejo 77.723 exhaust manifold. Next I’ll be adding the final bits ’n’ pieces to the aircraft. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
224 Peter Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 I wonder if they were re-used at all? One reference I found says that "the rockets were jettisoned after takeoff" http://branches.britishlegion.org.uk/branches/byfield-district-branch-in-rural-sw-northants-uk/stories/hms-ocean-in-the-korean-war I have a suspicion that the pack was dropped in the sea, can anyone confirm with video evidence? If they were single use then they wouldn't have shown any wear markings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alt-92 Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 On 5/29/2020 at 1:16 PM, Biggles87 said: What an ingenious way to ensure that the yellow prop tips are equal. I usually do it with a pair of dividers which is a bit ‘hit and miss’ when the prop tips are not square, which is most of the time. John You could also do it in reverse, i.e. yellow first, then mask tip using the same manner and spray black (which tends to cover better anyway than yellow). Slightly different approach, same effect. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 27 minutes ago, 224 Peter said: I wonder if they were re-used at all? One reference I found says that "the rockets were jettisoned after takeoff" http://branches.britishlegion.org.uk/branches/byfield-district-branch-in-rural-sw-northants-uk/stories/hms-ocean-in-the-korean-war I have a suspicion that the pack was dropped in the sea, can anyone confirm with video evidence? If they were single use then they wouldn't have shown any wear markings. thanks for that Peter it would make more sense to jettison the rockets after takeoff and dump them in front of the ship however in "my" version the bean-counters were banging-on about cutting costs so these boosters were reused time and again 😁 rgds John(shortCummins) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 19 minutes ago, alt-92 said: You could also do it in reverse, i.e. yellow first, then mask tip using the same manner and spray black (which tends to cover better anyway than yellow). Slightly different approach, same effect. that would be an easier way thanks for the tip 👍 rgds John(shortCummins) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 Under-wing light clusters had been masked to protect the aluminium paint. Then the decals were applied. The external fuel tank and camera pod were fixed to the wing. Followed by the bombs. Rocket-boosters attached. Pitot tube, wing lights and arrestor-hook attached. …and the masks removed from the windshield and canopy. Next I’ll be getting her ready for inspection. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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