shortCummins Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 13 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said: John, I just did a catch up as I seemed to have missed the start last month. Tsk. Still, you've managed very well so far without me, so I'll just sit quietly and watch. always good to have you along Pete 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Before starting on the sky colour I want to paint the NMF plates to the rear of the exhaust pipes, these were painted with AK Xtreme Metal AK479 aluminium. Once the aluminium had fully dried it was masked, I used my Infini cutting mat to make thin stripes of Tamiya tape to ‘outline’ the panel and then Mr Masking Sol was used to protect the centres. I also gave the landing/identification lights a coat of AK479, these will eventually be covered with a couple of decals, and Mr Masking Sol was used to protect the colour. The ‘overspray’ from the AK479 was treated with some more UMP/Stynylrez black primer. Then the walkway area was given a coat of Alkan “new rubber” black-grey… …which will be covered with the Montex mask, once the paint has dried. Next I’ll be attacking the roundels and other markings. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whofan Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 57 minutes ago, shortCummins said: Before starting on the sky colour I want to paint the NMF plates to the rear of the exhaust pipes, these were painted with AK Xtreme Metal AK479 aluminium. I've used Bare metal foil on my 1/72 Frog Sea fury, and I intend to use it on the other sea fury kits I have (1/72 and 1/48th airfix, 1/48 hobby craft. It looks ok in the small scale with a rust wash and tamiya smoke brushed over, , but will probably look better in 1/48 with some more weathering. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 12 hours ago, Whofan said: I've used Bare metal foil on my 1/72 Frog Sea fury, and I intend to use it on the other sea fury kits I have (1/72 and 1/48th airfix, 1/48 hobby craft. It looks ok in the small scale with a rust wash and tamiya smoke brushed over, , but will probably look better in 1/48 with some more weathering. I wish I'd thought of that, maybe next time rgds John(shortCummins) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whofan Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 9 hours ago, shortCummins said: I wish I'd thought of that, maybe next time rgds John(shortCummins) I saw the tip somewhere - it might have been a build article in a magazine, or even in a WIP here, so it isn't my idea! As I said, the foil is quite bright, looking at some reference photos the metal plate often looks very dirty and a light rust wash over which I've lightly brushed Tamiya smoke does bring the brightness right down. In 48th scale, I'm sure I'd need to look at weathering the foil differently. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 On 02/05/2020 at 16:29, janneman36 said: You asked John but I also would like to give my view on stynylrez which is selfleveling and therefore all the detail will be kept even when you airbrush it a littlebit too wet.. Mr surfacer is a filling primer which fills in your small imperfections as well and that is the opposite of stynylrez.. They come in both handy.. Stynylrez/ump is also very handy when you use the hairy stick, I use it for al those smal cockpit details as well and they have at least 12 primer colors...for stynylrez that is.. cheers, Jan On 02/05/2020 at 16:39, shortCummins said: Hi Tony thanks for the nice comment 👍 UMP/Stynylrez primers are my primer of choice, I've not used Mr Surfacer but have used vallejo primer(s) which tended to peal if they hadn't cured for at least 48 hrs. The reasons I like UMP/Stynylrez are. its acrylic, my work bench is the kitchen table and I don't have a spray booth so enamel or lacquer paints are a no-go ease of use, its self-levelling and you can really hose it on and it'll sort itself out, I've never had any "runs" and at times I've been quite brutal with it. you can sand it, when I tried sanding the vallejo primer it just lifted, Stynylrez sands beautifully, providing you let it cure, I "normally" leave it overnight for the main parts however I have sprayed after only half an hour or so, admittedly on smaller parts that wouldn't need too much work i.e. just fixing in place or adding decals. easy clean up, its acrylic so it can be cleaned with water however I do tend to use UMP cleaner you can mix the colours, you can create different shades of grey, mixing the black, white and/or grey colours if you want to, might be useful for pre-shading? down points you need a "big" air-brush needle, I tried using a .2 needle and did get it work however I've now got a .4 needle and it covers far nicer. you need quite high pressure, typically I use around 2 bar/30 psi when you get to the end of a bottle it can be a bit "lumpy", when this happens I add some thinner and use it to test my seams rather than as a "true" primer now that UMP have started stocking it its available outside the US, before then it was quite difficult to get hold of. Stynylrez did do a range of colours, black, white, grey, yellow, brown, green etc. however I've only seen the black, white & greys recently rgds John(shortCummins) Thanks for the replies and apologies for not having acknowledged your response earlier, having PC, Mac and iPhone issues since they all upgraded last week () which I am trying to, aimlessly, solve! Anyway, much appreciated and have added the stuff to my Must Buy & Try list! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 Previously I’ve used Montex masks a number of times, I really like painted markings however, this time, I’m going to try painting the roundels, and other markings, before the main aircraft colours. The only issue I’ve had previously is colour “bleeding” from the markings over the camo’, so if I paint the markings first I’m hoping to restrict this happening, I have a “cunning plan”? Anywho white was the first colour to get applied. Overspray will be taken care of before the camo’ colours. Before the blue was applied I re-masked the white area and then gave the “white edge” another blast of white, my “cunning plan” is that if any paint was to bleed onto the white, it’ll now be white paint and not the blue, we’ll see how it goes. Then the blue, a mix of Tamiya XF-4 blue (95%) and XF-1 black (5%). The “blue” mask was applied, you’ll notice that I’ve “reinforced” the join between the blue and white masks with the application of Mr Masking Sol. Red centre got the same treatment, a blast of white around the “white edge” and then Tamiya XF-7 red (75%) and XF-64 NATO brown (25%). Next I’ll be painting the fuselage codes. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 (edited) On 4/14/2020 at 11:37 AM, shortCummins said: I decided to paint the instrument panel with a couple of different shades. The outer sections were masked and the centre section given a coat of XF-69 NATO black. .......... Quote edited / shortend .......... Just for reference here’s how I made my version of someone’s wash: Equal parts water and Alclad aqua gloss and 3 drop of Tamiya XF-85 rubber black. Airfix supply the decals for the instruments in 6 parts, so much better than one ‘big’ one. Nearly all of the decals settled down nicely with just a little micro sol, the exception being the top left dial. When they’d dried a dab of aqua gloss hopefully gives the suggestion of glass. Next I’ll be finishing the cockpit. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) XLNT results with that multi shaded black approach! I was so inspired I rushed down to the LHS (still open here in Gothenurg, safety distance obviously add-heard to) to get myself a copy of the Export version hoping to short-cut the short shot issues I am having with the first release. But walked out with the Star Mi-24 Hind 1/48, hopeless or helpless... I don't know. But back to topic - very inspiring build with lots of very helful tips and tricks - Thank You Sir! And very good results! Thank you for sharing! With regards Zack Edited May 6, 2020 by Zack quote edited 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Montex supply each “code mask” as individual elements and therefore you have a “positive” and “negative” mask of each… … I could have used the “negative” masks to paint each of them, as you would have to do if your applying them after the camo’ however, painting the codes before camo’ gives me the option to only use the “positive” masks. Fuselage codes were painted with XF-69 NATO black, I just sprayed the panels and then used the Montex mask for the codes. The under-wing code is a strange one, Airfix supply two versions, one “black” and one “light sky(ish)”, according to their notes the black markings were overpainted so as to be less visible when the aircraft wings were folded. This may well have been the case but I can’t see what difference black codes would make, if the aircraft was “spotted” with its wings folded then its going to be sitting on an aircraft carriers deck, surely the “game would have been up” by then? Anyhow I’ve opted for the lighter version and I made a lightened mix of Alkan BS:210 Sky S approx 50-50 Alkan white. Next I’ll be starting to slop on some paint. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 10, 2020 Author Share Posted May 10, 2020 When the roundels had fully dried, Mr Masking Sol was used between the roundel rings, belt and braces… …then my roundel blue mixture, was used to try and prevent any bleed on the roundels… …and the “lightened” Sky mix for the underwing markings I’ve decided not to use XF-69 NATO black for the fuselage markings as I feel that the black primer will prevent the Sky seepage, if my cunning plan works!? Once the roundels and markings had been “protected” another coat of black primer evened everything out. Now that the markings have been protected I started with a marble layer, I’m a big fan of black-basing, this was painted with a thinned coat of Alkan BS:210 Sky S. I picked out a couple of panels with a different colour, XF-68 NATO brown, the idea is to suggest repainted, replaced or ‘stained’ panels, these should “stain” the Sky colour and be a foundation for the weathering. You can see from the marble layer that it wasn't spraying as smooth as "normal" but I reasoned that as it would be covered it wouldn't make too much difference however when I tried to spray a thinned coat of Sky the paint turned into sludge, in fairness it was quite old 5-6 years, so I’ve ordered some “new” paint and I’ll continue when it arrives. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 I do like your marbling John, I really ought to try it, but by the time I get to this stage in a build ( usually after about 6 months) I just want to get it finished as soon as possible. The lifespan of paint seems to be extremely variable. I have some which came with me from the UK 15 years ago, especially acrylic , which are still good and others which have become unusable after 4 or5 years. Looking forward to the unmasking. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 So after my “new” paint arrived the airframe was given a coat or two of highly thinned, 90 thinner - 10 paint, this time it was Mr Hobby H074 Sky, to blend the “stains” and marble layer. I’d like to thank the folks at air-craft.net for processing my order so quickly, I placed the order on Sunday and I had the paint in my hands Tuesday morning, fantastic service especially at this time. Next I’ll be throwing on the extra dark sea grey. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 Some of the photos taken during the Korean War show some extreme conditions… …so I’m going to “weather” the top of the wings more than I normally would. I removed the mask from the exhaust plate. I’ve decided that keeping the cowling off is a recipe for misaligning the extra dark sea grey (ESDG) separation, so I’ve bolted it to the main fuselage. Previously I’d protected(?) the blue of the wing roundels by over spraying with with my blue mix. The wing roots, cowling and fuselage sides were masked, I used “flexible” tape for the main demarkation… …and then “filled in” with Tamiya tape and Mr Masking Sol. UMP/Stynylrez black primer was used to cover the over-spray from the previous Sky colour. Next I’ll be applying the marble layer and EDSG. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectricLightAndy Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Looking absolutely marvelous, them masks are a bit nifty! I'm just finishing mine atm... although nowhere near as nice as this, I like the metal exhaust shield too! Andy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 14, 2020 Author Share Posted May 14, 2020 12 hours ago, ElectricLightAndy said: Looking absolutely marvelous, them masks are a bit nifty! I'm just finishing mine atm... although nowhere near as nice as this, I like the metal exhaust shield too! Andy. thanks Andy I just got my fingers crossed that there's not too much bleed, I've never painted them before the camo and I'm banking on spraying the masked colour over the edge of the mask will act as a "dam" stopping the camo colour from spoiling the roundels and other markings. rgds John(shortCummins) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 The most difficult part of painting FAA camouflage, I think, is the sweep of the demarcation up to the fin, but it looks like you’ve nailed it there. Johm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunny Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 On 10/05/2020 at 21:58, shortCummins said: When the roundels had fully dried, Mr Masking Sol was used between the roundel rings, belt and braces… …then my roundel blue mixture, was used to try and prevent any bleed on the roundels… Thanks for the stencil masterclass John! Next time I won't try to relocate yellow on white on blue on red without misalignment! Cheers, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 On 14/05/2020 at 10:53, Dunny said: Thanks for the stencil masterclass John! Next time I won't try to relocate yellow on white on blue on red without misalignment! Cheers, Roger don't thank me yet Roger, this is the first time I've tried doing the roundels before the camo, it could go horribly wrong 😬 rgds John(shortCummins) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 Once the primer had cured I started with an initial marble layer, using Hobby Color H333 extra dark sea grey. Although black basing, gives a nice subtile variation to the paint, rather than just a grey slab, I want to show a bit more colour changes so I’ve darkened some areas with XF-69 NATO black marbling, mainly near the wing walkways and towards the rear of the wing. To further enhance this idea I’ve used some Hobby Color H305 grey FS36118 to lighten other areas. Once again I used highly thinned H333, 90 thinner - 10 paint, to blend the marble layer(s). The photos don’t really show the variations as well as “in the flesh”, if you look at the last photo the wing tip area shows it a little bit however, when the aircraft is “tilted” the effect really shows. Next I’ll be removing the masks and starting the weathering. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 I was a little concerned with how the demarcation would look once I’d removed the masking… …I’ve got to say that I’m really chuffed with the result! So next was removing the poundal and aircraft “ID” numbers, this was the first time that I’d applied them before the camo’ so the main worry was bleed, but they turned out as good as I’d hoped. I’m really pleased with the under-wing markings as I’d “mixed” the colour and it wasn’t until the masks were removed that I saw how they looked against the Sky. Also I’d masked the walkways, they also turned out really well. There are a couple of small areas that need touching up but nowhere near as mush as when I’ve applied the markings after the camo’, so I’ll be using this method from now on. One thing to bear in mind is that the panel lines on this kit are quite deep… …so the lack of bleed is very surprising. The marking edges are a little “raised”, but not too much and once the clear coats have been applied I’m sure they’ll even out. Next I’ll be adding the decals. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 I’ve added the stencil decals, most of which don’t show very well, especially the black on extra dark sea grey. This also shows that I need to do some minor touch-ups to the Sky S colour Next I’ll be touching-up the paint and then applying a gloss coat in preparation for the start of weathering. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 A splendid result from the un-masking, I’d be chuffed with that too. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 20, 2020 Author Share Posted May 20, 2020 The whole airframe was given a coat of aqua gloss and then I applied Tamiya gray panel line accent color on the EDSG… …the excess was then cleaned off with some Q-tips after 15 minutes or so. Sky “S” was treated with Tamiya dark brown panel liner. …also cleaned after 10 minutes or so. Landing gear panels were also treated with Tamiya dark brown. I’m going to leave this overnight so that the panel liner fully dries and any “tide marks” will be fully visible and I’ll be able to clean them off, I hadn’t notice some on the rudder until I looked at the photos. Then I’ll be applying a coat of matt in preparation for some oil paints. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 So, there you are! I seem to have missed you again for a couple of weeks. Apologies, I don't know where the time is going. Anyway, The Fury is looking proper Pusser. I've even learned a few things. Result! Cheers, Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortCummins Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 15 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said: So, there you are! I seem to have missed you again for a couple of weeks. Apologies, I don't know where the time is going. Anyway, The Fury is looking proper Pusser. I've even learned a few things. Result! Cheers, Pete thanks Pete the "do the insignia" before the camo' has worked far better than I'd hoped, maybe the secret is spraying the adjoining to act as a "dam" I'll have to experiment rgds John(shortCummins) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now