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Ryefield Models Sherman Firefly Vc


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All primed in Black, the ease of use of the Stynlrez is brilliant and works great in my limited experience of such things

 

Firefly just done in Black primer.

piece of wood across front is strip hardwood slotted in the disused houseboat brackets, I think that’s what they were called.

 

Firefly just done in Black primer.

looks like it is floating 

 

Firefly just done in Black primer.


 

Cheers everyone comments always welcome 

 

Mark

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Well the right side hatches were often opened even though not used by a gunner so as long as it was in use of sorts it is more than feasible they could be left facing in any direction. 

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2 questions if anyone can help,

 

1 is it worth painting the front underside of the barrel in the white/off white wavy edge strip ?

 

2 what to use to replicate the strips on a cam net ?

 

cheers

Mark

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2 hours ago, mbthejester said:

2 questions if anyone can help,

 

1 is it worth painting the front underside of the barrel in the white/off white wavy edge strip ?

 

2 what to use to replicate the strips on a cam net ?

 

cheers

Mark

1 Depends on the particular vehicle your doing,reference is everything i'm sure the destructions tell you unit and regiment try using the google to find pics of the vehicle your actually doing....but i would say yes it seemed to be a fairly regular standard to paint the barrel that way to hide the fact that it was a firefly from German units, the wavy was only on the last half of the barrel as it was an attempt to camo the end and leave enough barrel to be identified as a 75mm.

2 I would use either foil or masking tape....masking tape takes away the need for using glue silver foil will be more mailliable and poseable and thinner both will need painting (DUH:banghead:)  

Edited by M3talpig
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1 hour ago, M3talpig said:

1 Depends on the particular vehicle your doing,reference is everything i'm sure the destructions tell you unit and regiment try using the google to find pics of the vehicle your actually doing....but i would say yes it seemed to be a fairly regular standard to paint the barrel that way to hide the fact that it was a firefly from German units, the wavy was only on the last half of the barrel as it was an attempt to camo the end and leave enough barrel to be identified as a 75mm.

2 I would use either foil or masking tape....masking tape takes away the need for using glue silver foil will be more mailliable and poseable and thinner both will need painting (DUH:banghead:)  

Brilliant thanks, never thought of masking tape, should work well as it will be a rolled up net 

 

cheers

Mark

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Another rolled cam net idea.  Old School.  Plasterer's cotton scrim.  Soaked in watered down PVA, set in place and then sprinkled with tea leaves while still wet.  You could probably do the same with other natural material cam nets like Verlinden or Wee Friends. 

 

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I had thought of doing a Dutch modern AFV with their hessian-strip net and had thought of using PVA-soaked tissue paper strips.  But that would be tedious.  The permanence of masking tape might worry me.

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1 hour ago, Das Abteilung said:

The permanence of masking tape might worry me.

Once painted it's as permanent as you can get.....have used this method many times. you don't stick the strips to the net per say but make the strip twice as long as you need and fold around the net strands and then close the loop sticky to sticky if that makes sense as said once painted it's about as permanent as it gets

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2 hours ago, mbthejester said:

Brilliant thanks, never thought of masking tape, should work well as it will be a rolled up net

You are talking about the hessian net with the elongated strips sewn into it......if so tamiya masking tape is great for this just lay the tape out and cut the tape into various strip lengths and widths and fold into the net then apply with white glue and water once dry paint and dry brush...i have seen it done by layering ....lay a net down then stick your strips on top of the netting then lay another layer of net on top saves you having to close the loop around the strands and the glue does the job of securing the strands ...the later is faster but less random.

A friend has a roll of hessian net in his garage the strips are about as random as it gets so the more odd the lengths and widths the better.  

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Thanks everyone some great ideas from you all

did a bit more last couple of days, first coats of scc15 and started the tracks, easier than the kit ones by Masterclub, sore fingers though. 
 

 

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Few shots of latest work done

Sherman Firefly, first couple of coats scc15 and started on the masterclub tracks, easier than the kit ones.

 

Sherman Firefly, first couple of coats scc15 and started on the masterclub tracks, easier than the kit ones.


 

Sherman Firefly, first couple of coats scc15 and started on the masterclub tracks, easier than the kit ones.

 

Sherman Firefly, first couple of coats scc15 and started on the masterclub tracks, easier than the kit ones.

 

Sherman Firefly, first couple of coats scc15 and started on the masterclub tracks, easier than the kit ones.

 

Sherman Firefly, first couple of coats scc15 and started on the masterclub tracks, easier than the kit ones.

 

Sherman Firefly, first couple of coats scc15 and started on the masterclub tracks, easier than the kit ones.

 

One of the rear lights is a bit off, they are clear parts I found them quite difficult to see properly, Tracks are nice and flexible,

going to display it with my 1RTR Comet, so going to look for decals so it looks like they belong together, not going to be too fussy, but won’t use Italian campaign.

 

Cheers

Mark

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Lots of random scratches in the plastic prior to painting and priming, no idea if it will work when finished, giving it a go instead of after painting, if it does not work will get covered. 
 

cheers

Mark

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Well, those two round "bulges" near the front drive are one casting with left, or right part. Putty those joint lines (recreate casting), and scribe faint line on the "lip". Three parts bolted together.

Zig

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Cheers Zigster,

would that be a thin strip of putty the width of the flanges then scribe down middle ? Is it truly worth the work, not sure I can do a decent job on this task, with all the bits I will dump and drape over the front is it a must do for accuracy ? 
 

And 

Done the sprockets and idlers, how do they look ? cannot find any colour shots of them, other than museum or shots of collectors that own them but not of genuine been in the field months through a bad winter, rear idlers have been done in a dark oily steel colour I am assuming bare metal idler on the tracks would be pretty shiny but again no wartime colour shots just what look bright in B&W managed to sand away the idler centre join reasonably well. Dark oily steel on sprockets with a primer red, inside sprockets are a bit more steel as track guides run on inside so again presuming 

 

cheers

Mark

Firefly sprockets 1st attempt

 

 

Firefly idler wheels

 

 

 

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The easy way to fill a gap like that is either use some correction fluid, such as Tipex, or use a fine-ish brush and some white PVA glue. Both will do the job. The first will probably require some rubbing down, but the PVA glue won't. You can also use a cocktail stick to apply the glue.

 

John.

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Well, I would put thin line of putty, then use a stiff, short brush to keep appearance uniform (remember, that is one, big chunk of casting).

On the port side, that "bulge" is sitting a bit high, comparing to the drive cover. You have to sand it down, to the same level. No step there.

As for flanges, a bit of thicker, vinyl tape half way through, then a gentle line with a needle.

Best to have a look at photos in (for example)  http://the.shadock.free.fr/sherman_minutia/   or any other you can find.

Happy modeling!

Zig

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