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USS Fletcher 1/144


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4 minutes ago, Courageous said:

I didn't know that. Something else I've learned today.

 

Stuart

Ah, good! The hinge point should be towards the bow so that any flooding over the deck will naturally push the door closed rather than hold it open. I found out after putting one set of doors on down the wrong side and had to peel each one off again...

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13 hours ago, Alan P said:

Ah, good! The hinge point should be towards the bow so that any flooding over the deck will naturally push the door closed rather than hold it open. I found out after putting one set of doors on down the wrong side and had to peel each one off again...

That's really right!

Look at this photo:

49805676682_cca24ecb03_k.jpgIMG_20181107_181516 by Franco Segato, su Flickr

If you need any reference, feel free to look at this photo album. I made it as my reference of your same model I have in my stash, during my visit in Boston:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmMKktYm

 

 

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16 hours ago, Alan P said:

Ah, good! The hinge point should be towards the bow so that any flooding over the deck will naturally push the door closed rather than hold it open. I found out after putting one set of doors on down the wrong side and had to peel each one off again...

Like Stuart, I didn't know that as a fact, but thinking about it of course that's the way to do it!

 

Just found this build @beefy66 and I must say I'm pretty impressed at the start you have made, though of course not surprised! I had seen examples of this "oil canning" but never knew what it was called. Now I know. When you look at some of the photos of these ships, it's such an obvious feature, yet I'd always consigned it to the "much too difficult" box. The method you are using here is certainly bold, but looking very effective.

 

I'm definitely in for this ride!

 

Terry

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22 hours ago, Alan P said:

Ah, good! The hinge point should be towards the bow so that any flooding over the deck will naturally push the door closed rather than hold it open. I found out after putting one set of doors on down the wrong side and had to peel each one off again...

@Alan P after nearly having a heart attack thinking that I had put the doors on the wrong way I double checked the instructions and realised that the doors have two part numbers for left and right hinge so with me actually following the instructions for once I have put them on the right way so someone must have not read the instructions if they put them on back to front :whistle:

 

@franco1964 again great photos and thanks for the link these will come in extremely useful to me.

 

@Terry1954 thank you and welcome along for the ride.

 

Well small update bit of a break from the scraping and sanding adding the support brackets to the gun shield.

 

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Stay Safe

beefy

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On 27/04/2020 at 21:50, Alan P said:

Ah, good! The hinge point should be towards the bow so that any flooding over the deck will naturally push the door closed rather than hold it open. I found out after putting one set of doors on down the wrong side and had to peel each one off again...

It's also so that when the ship is heading into any strong wind, the door has to be pushed against the force of the wind rather than having the wind rip the door out of control and slam back against the bulkhead thus risking damage to ship structure, door and hinges.

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Well it looks like I might be getting somewhere now started building up the main deck level of the superstructures and removed the molded upper forward gun shields ready for the PE.

 

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beefy

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Well small update and a bit of a delemere I need some help advice on

There is a weather shield around the midship area the eduard set provides this but has recessed rivet detail while the kit part has raised rivets the same as the structure parts(I think I am turning into a rivet counter 🤓)

Question is which to use if I go for the PE I could add some Archer transfers but the PE looks to be to thin to me for this job  what do you lot reckon :idea:

 

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beefy

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Kit part.  We get a bit programmed to think that etch is always better - I'm not so certain

Plastic wins for me on this occasion!

And I think the whole ship is beginning to look the part :D

rob

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12 minutes ago, robgizlu said:

Kit part.  We get a bit programmed to think that etch is always better - I'm not so certain

Plastic wins for me on this occasion!

And I think the whole ship is beginning to look the part :D

rob

Cheers Rob that is what I was sort of leaning towards and to use the PE triangle supports to add to the details

We are a fickle lot us modellers :coolio:

 

beefy

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Nice work on this! :thumbsup:

 

I'm very interested in the oil canning. It's oh so prominent on ships, but it's way beyond my middling skills.

 

I have the older version of the rolling set--it's the ideal tool for that those shapes. Very highly recommended!

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Speeding along there Beefy, looking good!

 

Another vote for the kit part, all the other areas have raised rivets, it'd look wrong without them.

 

Geoff 

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I think it all depends on the thickness of the plastic part.  Would it look out of place compared to the almost adjacent 20 mm screens?  From the photo the kit part looks okay to me, though in a smaller scale I can't see it working so well.

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I'm with @Chewbacca. The thickness would do it for me, i.e. the thinner would normally be my choice, and a comparison with other etched shield close by would be a factor. Having said that I also agree with Ralph that the parts look ok in the picture.

 

Terry

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Thanks for all your thoughts on this gent's

 

From the link below provided by @franco1964 you can see that the actual panel looks quite sturdy and would be thicker than the PE part.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/150109410@N04/49804814628/in/photostream/

 

 

 

Beefy

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Great picture Beefy, and I can see your point. That picture also shows the oil canning very clearly forward in line with the main A turret.

 

Great thread as ever!

 

Terry

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Looking great as usual, Beefy 👍

 

Re the splinter shields on the Fletchers, neither the kit nor the PE parts are strictly correct :

 

 

2020-05-03_09-26-31

The side shields were made of 10-pound STS steel to offer some protection but save weight, this meant about 1/4" thickness. They were embedded in steel framing as you can see from the picture of the inner side port screen above. 

2020-05-03_09-27-19

The thickness of the top rail is how it's represented in the kit, while the PE better represents the actual shield thickness. All things considered, you're probably better off using the kit shields, fill in the ejector pin marks and scrape off the reinforcements and replace with the PE supports. 

 

Or just use the kit parts and be done with it! 

 

Alan 

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Thanks for the photos Alan they help a lot and I will go with the kit part and PE supports :idea:

 

Cheers 

beefy 

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Small update added the PE A frame supports to the side shields and started on the bridge wing shields.

 

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Stay Safe

 

beefy

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Small update more brass work structure support brackets and a couple of boxes at the rear of the bridge not sure what theses are but one fell to bits when trying to fold into position but used some evergreen strip to strengthen it.

 

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Stay Safe

 

beefy

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Gidday Beefy, I think those boxes at the rear of the bridge are flag lockers. The USN lockers look a little different to RN lockers. HTH. That bridge work PE looks very good. Regards, Jeff.

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