Bare Metal Spit – 1/48 RAAF Mk VIII A58-303 ***FINISHED***

[Col.]

Good work on the repair but it's disappointing to see the paintwork is so fragile   Good luck masking for the tail section.

In the past I've used plain paper or card held in place to cover areas rather than stick something directly to paint but that can become a juggling act.

[Ray_W]

1 minute ago, Col. said:

Good work on the repair but it's disappointing to see the paintwork is so fragile   Good luck masking for the tail section.

In the past I've used plain paper or card held in place to cover areas rather than stick something directly to paint but that can become a juggling act.

Thanks Col. I trust the clear coat will give it the necessary strength. I expect so. Then with super low tack all should be good. I need that hard edge. 

[janneman36]

34 minutes ago, Col. said:

Good work on the repair but it's disappointing to see the paintwork is so fragile   Good luck masking for the tail section.

In the past I've used plain paper or card held in place to cover areas rather than stick something directly to paint but that can become a juggling act.

You are right about those kind of paints, they can be a real juggling act...

That always makes me hessitate a little from doing a bare metal aircraft and I applaud for people who makes it look easy👏🏻
Good luck to Ray as well though I am confident you pull this one off👍
 

cheers, Jan 

[Ray_W]

2 minutes ago, janneman36 said:

You are right about those kind of paints, they can be a real juggling act...

That always makes me hessitate a little from doing a bare metal aircraft and I applaud for people who makes it look easy👏🏻
Good luck to Ray as well though I am confident you pull this one off👍
 

cheers, Jan 

Jan, Thank you! I appreciate the confidence. Ray

[Johnson]

2 hours ago, Ray_W said:

It looks gorgeous, just hope the clear coat doesn't spoil the effect.

Always a difficult call. With the gorgeous finish you've achieved I'd be hesitant if you can avoid having to clear coat.

 

I had to make the same decision on my recent NMF P-51D. I ended up giving it a coat of semi-matt clear which was great as the decal backing disappeared completely - something I considered essential, but I did loose a bit of lustre on the Alclad aluminium finish.

[Ray_W]

I decided to put on a clear coat of GX100 and it transformed the toughness of the metal coat without really losing much in appearance; maybe, holding its appearance under the clear coat is a side benefit of using the "Polished Aluminium". I was then able to mask normally, be it with a reduced tack Tamiya tape. I'm still not 100% confident and will give it another light coat of GX100 primarily focussed in the areas where I will mask and paint the roundels and then leave the surface for a couple of days so those layers can harden.

 

All-in-all it is getting there. Just a detail point, the white leading edge on this aircraft seemed to take a straight line from the wing-tip light to the wing root rather than following the curve of the leading edge. Certainly made the masking job easier. The white showing in the panel lines is just a reflection with the photography. 

 

 

I look forward to another NMF aircraft using AK's product. I think the results are excellent and the ease of use would of been better not using their enamel black base. The drying time for the base, for me, was too extended. Maybe better if I had done it, put it in a tub, and forgot it for a week rather than 1 day. Next time I'll switch back to more familiar territory with the Gunze lacquer GX-02 as a base coat and see how they perform.

 

The fun continues,

Ray

[Col.]

Glad to see the paintwork progressing without further problems  

[Ray_W]

8 hours ago, Col. said:

Glad to see the paintwork progressing without further problems  

Thank you. That protective coat is a must and it still looks nice.🙂

[Johnson]

I think I can  see a very slight reduction in the shininess, and I think its better for that, considering the plane you're modelling. Glad the clear coat worked out Ray.

[Alan P]

This is a beautiful build but demonstrates exactly why I went back to Alclad after thinking Xtreme Metal was the answer. Twice I've had the masking tape problem with it, which is exactly a 50% failure rate! 

 

Can't fault your rescue job though, it really looks stunning. 

[Ray_W]

1 hour ago, Alan P said:

This is a beautiful build but demonstrates exactly why I went back to Alclad after thinking Xtreme Metal was the answer. Twice I've had the masking tape problem with it, which is exactly a 50% failure rate! 

 

Can't fault your rescue job though, it really looks stunning. 

Thanks Alan,

 

I'll give the Xtreme another go on a future build. I have the paint anyway.

 

I put on another light coat of GX100 today in readiness for the roundel masking. This has subdued the aluminium look a little more. I am happy with this though as this aircraft was not polished like a new pin. What's good is that it still looks like aluminium to me and not silver paint. Let's see how the roundel masking goes.  

 

Ray

[Cookenbacher]

1 hour ago, Ray_W said:

What's good is that it still looks like aluminium to me and not silver paint.

Yes, you've definitely achieved the metal look you were going for Ray. Outstanding.

[Ray_W]

5 minutes ago, Cookenbacher said:

Yes, you've definitely achieved the metal look you were going for Ray. Outstanding.

Thanks Cookie for the nice words. 

[Ray_W]

I have now commenced the roundels after letting the top coats harden these past few days.

 

I made my own roundels using some Tamiya masking sheet. Quite simple being just blue and white. My hieroglyphics are so I keep each roundel mask matched.  

 

 

And sprayed the white.

 

 

You may note the neat circular white overspray. Instead of masking all over the model I make myself an overspray mask. Here it is in place.

 

 

I then move it from roundel to roundel as required. Note it's not just a piece of card. It's an adhesive mask where I remove the backing paper to just give sufficient adhesive circle around the roundel to keep the mask in place and yet seal close to the roundel without sticking on any other painted surfaces. 

 

To do this I first cut a piece of masking paper dependent on the overall mask size required. Now this will get confusing because the adhesive masking paper I happen to have is white and the removable backing paper is yellow and has a similar colour as a Kabuki mask (e.g. Tamiya tape). So in this case, do not think Tamiya tape, the yellow is not the sticky bit, it's the backing paper.

 

 

I then gently scribe a circle in the backing paper without cutting through the adhesive film with a circle a little larger than the finish hole size I want. The difference between the two will give me the amount of "sticky" area to adhere to the accurate roundel mask already attached to the kit. My preferred circle cutter for sizes less than a Olfa circle cutter (which just happens to be almost every circle I ever cut) is a set of dividers with a sharpened needle.

 

 

I then carefully remove the backing paper (yellow) leaving the top adhesive film (white) in place.

 

 

I then scribe and remove a smaller circle to give clearance on the roundel and I have my mask ready. I then move this mask roundel to roundel as required pressing the adhesive part onto the roundel mask with it's slight clearance.

 

 

You can make them very quickly. I normally make a couple for a job like this as they will lose their tackiness. The advantage is that I am reducing the opportunity for additional taping causing damage to the surface with quite an effective mask.

 

When I return this evening I shall do the blue and hopefully the masks will not have damaged the surface.

 

Ray 

[ckw]

Hope for the best on this - just a few notes on my experience:

 

- a coat of Gauzy Agent did allow me to mask Xtreme metal successfully, but in my case, I wasn't happy with the uniform high shine - unlike your subject. I thought I needed some panels to appear duller.

 

- with this in mind for my next attempt I decided not to use a protective coat. Instead, I painted the model in reverse, As the subject was a Japanese Kate. I first sprayed the whole aircraft in Colourcoats honomur red, then masked off the roundels and stripes and applied the AK this worked pretty well, though a couple of sessions were needed to prevent any hint of red showing through where it wasn't wanted.

 

Interestingly previous masking problems I had occurred with a Mr Surfacer primer and a gloss black acrylic (Mr Hobby) base coat. Or just Mr Surfacer. After completing most of my Kate, I took a chance and masked off some of the metallic areas to fix a panel I'd managed to mess up. I had no problem using Tammy tape. Which leads me to believe that the undercoat is the critical factor. On my next attempt I'm going to try an enamel black as an undercoat and see what happens.

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

[Johnson]

Useful tips, thanks chaps!

 

Fingers crossed Ray!

Edited May 1, 2020 by Johnson

[Ray_W]

Masking and painting done and the result is good. The GX100 applied over the top of the Xtreme Metal has made all the difference. No lifting, just a normal masking job (if such a thing exists). Time for a little weathering and bits and pieces but this is getting near finished. 

 

 

@ckw Hi Colin, Thankfully I have had no trouble with Gunze primers, finishers and paint (acrylic and lacquer) and no issue with compatibility with Tamiya tape. I have Gauzy Intermediate and considered using it on this project, that was following the masking trouble with the "Polished Aluminium". My thinking being that it is a far less aggressive coating compared to the lacquer based clear coats. I have tried it before and prefer the GX100 and decided to stay with my usual and was very happy with the outcome. The GX100 has kept the Xtreme finish reasonably well and has provided a robust coat to mask over. I agree with your thoughts on the undercoat although my solution on my next NMF will be to not mix Gunze and AK's base coats. I will stick with Gunze, and put the metal coats over this. I am really keen to try this on a P-38 or P-47 build. 

 

We'll see.

 

Ray

 

 

  

[Cookenbacher]

Excellent masking, and thanks for the tutorial on the masking mask?, over mask? secondary mask? Whatever you decide to name it!

[Ray_W]

All but. Just waiting on "Donlup" tyres (Eduard Brassin) to arrive. All going well, they should be here later this week.

 

 

Oh, and those serial numbers. Because I purchased the "Aussie Eight" boxing, I do, in fact, have the decals, but they're back in Australia and I intend to finish this build without them.  I am still deciding how I will do this. I can cut and make up the serial numbers using left over serial number decals or paint them.

 

On the actual aircraft, it does not look like a stencil was used, rather, a very neat brush paint job so the use of a suitable pen could provide a reasonable rendition.

 

 

I have uses a Faber-Castell Ecco Pigment pen for certain features on some builds but never a full serial number. Practising with a 0.7 mm gives a nice result but there may be better options and a true paint pen. Any suggestions are welcome. 

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

I expected to finish this build today.

 

Received those very nice Brassin wheels and fitted them. Someone else mentioned that the hubs are smaller than the wheel rims leaving a gap. I found the same. I filled the gap with a little PVA before painting.

 

 

Weathered the underside with a few oils and tried not to go overboard - always easy to do with oils but easy to correct.

 

Looks cool but too much!

 

 

Knocked it back somewhat and probably need to add just a touch more.

 

 

As it turns out I have plenty of time to fiddle with this.

 

I did the serial numbers and was not happy with the result. Even though they're somewhat like the actual aircraft, I felt they did not match the rest of the build so I have stripped them off and will use decals. I could not find what I wanted in my meagre decal stash, that I have with me, so, ordered some 8"' serials on line. I'll respray the affected panels and redo that port side of the fuel tank armour plate where the oil wash has taken off some of the smoke stains and blend it all back in then wait for the decals to arrive.

 

These days I have a principle of not starting another build until the current build is finished. Seeing it will be just missing some serial numbers I think I'll make an exception and get into the Mk XIV. 

 

Here's how it looked with the serial numbers that I have since removed.

 

 

Ray

[Johnson]

52 minutes ago, Ray_W said:

Knocked it back somewhat and probably need to add just a touch more.

 

Agree. The first looked pretty good, and not enough on the second,

 

53 minutes ago, Ray_W said:

Here's how it looked with the serial numbers that I have since removed.

A good decision I think. They do look hand painted but a bit more precise than yours? A tricky one!

 

Overall though, a cracking build.

[Ray_W]

1 hour ago, Johnson said:

Agree. The first looked pretty good, and not enough on the second,

 

A good decision I think. They do look hand painted but a bit more precise than yours? A tricky one!

 

Overall though, a cracking build.

Hi Charlie,

Yes agreed. Right decision. I have already masked and resprayed the affected areas. I'll leave it now until tomorrow then seal coat the polished aluminium ready for the decals and also repair and finish that front panel. Then put it aside, tidy the bench and start the Airfix Mk XIV.

Ray

[Ray_W]

With the exception of the serial numbers, which will take about 2 to 3 weeks to get to me, and that mirror, that I am sure to break off, it's all but there. When finished I'll post some images in the gallery. In the mean time, here are some pictures before packing it away. 

 

 

 

I also tried to replicate a little of the leading edge wear on the prop blades typical of Australian Mk VIII's where the steel/armoured leading edge is showing through. Wooden props do not always have no metal showing. As always check your references. For example, Aussie NMF Mk VIII:

 

 

 

I may or may nor replicate the brake lines. They are so hair like in 1/48. If I can get something at 0.1 mm diameter I probably will include them.

 

 

I really targetted where I put that panel line wash. I did not want to over accentuate normal skin riveting. If there were major fasteners then yes. I used Brown Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color.

 

 

A nice shiny panel waiting for the serial numbers. I still have to put some slight flats on the wheels and will do this when finishing. The wear and tear will rub off the positions where I need the flats. Mind you it does not look too bad in this image. I might yet change my mind. 

 

 

 

 

I've really enjoyed this build and the challenge of a NMF finish. Looking forward to doing another one to apply the lessons learned - although with the FR XIV, F4U-1D, Supermarine S-5, Sea Fury, Firefly VC, and Do-17Z in the pipeline it might have to wait. 🤔 a P-51 or P-47 is very tempting.

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

[Ray_W]

Hooray! A package arrived. I now have a selection of serial numbers so I should find something close to the shape I want and finish this build over the weekend. Oh, and another surprise for later.

 

 

 

[Col.]

There's a lot of lovely in your photo