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AVIOCAR. CASA C-212-100. Special hobby 1/72.


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Hi all.

 

A kit of this aircraft in injected plastic was highly anticipated by me. It has taken years to come out and for a brand, Special Hobby, that although it has raised the bar for its kits in recent years, in my opinion it has not yet become one of the “first swords” of modeling. We will continue to dream that Tamiya, Eduard, Hasegawa or other brands of the highest general quality in their kits launch something that is not the usual thing on the market ... As if there were no flying gadgets, come on ...

 

I am not much of putting the staples when I start a thread because the quality of the pieces are better seen during the assembly, and they only serve to see the arrangement of the staples. Either way, there are countless photos of them online.

 

I will only say that in general terms it does not seem to me a bad kit, with acceptable details and negative panel lines (with differences in depth and width in some areas). Although, in the SH line, it does not bring a measly screw in any panel of its entire surface, which as I have said on some other occasion it seems to me that well into the 21st century it is the least that can be asked of a airplane.

 

I started it a long time ago and left it standing, like others, but I have the illusion of retaking it and finalizing it being in the circumstances of confinement in which we all find ourselves.

For its construction I am going to use the kit that I mention and the flaps that CMK offers for it in resin. The chosen decoration is the one that includes the kit for a plane in low visibility.

 

Well, the built.

 

 

I have made the landing lights using aluminum self-adhesive tape.

 

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I have replaced the part of the grille of the air intake under the propeller using metal mesh.

 

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The adjustment of the front of the engine nacelles is not good, leaving a rather steep step that I have had to solve using a lot of putty. It is recommended to do it from the internal part, since if there were any failure in the process it would be less visible.

After the corresponding sanding, the panel lines must be redone. In this photo you can also see some of the screws I made in the area.

 

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A thin layer of light gray to verify that the putty and sanding work has paid off.

 

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The glazed area of the cabin is generous and it is possible that the pieces in it can be seen with a certain clarity.

In this part I started with the seats, which I modified so that they looked somewhat more like the originals.

 

 

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The rest of the cockpit I have detailed with some pieces of thin sheet from Evergreen.

 

 

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This is what I had done so far.

For now, I am riveting all the fuselage and wings.

Cheers.

 

Andrés S.

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20 minutes ago, Patrick Martin said:

Dare I ask if a full cabin is coming?

PM

Hi Patrick.

I think I understand that you mean the area where to transport cargo or soldiers?
If so, no, you don't have any parts for that area of the plane.

Cheers.

 

Andrés S.

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I have been delayed in putting photos of the cockpit because when separating the remains of the clip from one of the control columns of one of the pilots, I lost it.

I tried to make it with copper wire but the result was very poor, so I used Green Stuff thermoplastic putty for the first time to reproduce a piece. This putty is designed, from my point of view, to reproduce more or less easily parts that are not very complicated in shape or size. Due to the size of the control column it was somewhat difficult for me, I suppose a 1/48 scale wheel or seat should not be that much. Also Tamiya's two-component putty is either gone or I won't mix two equal parts. That it is fast drying, let's leave it there because it took more than 2 days to get medium hard to remove the excess and to sand it.

The piece did not turn out perfectly well, but I am happy, since the perspective was to either leave the cabin without that fundamental piece or leave a thing made of wire.

 

 

 

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Here the result after removing the excess. The piece was so fine, small and the putty was not fully hardened after two days, so I did not risk continuing to remove or clean it thoroughly after sanding for fear that it would break and I would have to wait another 2 or 3 days for to dry the new piece.

 

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Here the cabin already finished. I am sorry that the photos are not totally sharp but I continue with my particular war with the camera.

The door, which appears to be sliding, was open. I have remade it with plastic sheet and I have made an opening knob. The belts are an Eduard reference of a range that are not photoetched but a kind of rubber-like substance. They are applied with white glue and they do not have as good detail as the metallic ones but at 1/72 and with the interior closed I think that it is enough detail. I have painted the central and lateral instrument consoles with a brush, taking advantage of the fact that I put some small thin plastic plates. The decals for the front have performed well, adapting to the indentations of the corresponding indicators, although the print quality is somewhat poor (those of the stencils for the fuselage and wings are simply a bad impression). The position of the front panel is not that, it is placed in that position simply so that it can be observed since it is attached to one of the semifuselages.

 

 

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This little machine that you see below, and that I suppose someone will know, is a DSPIAE gear cutter. My wife gave it to me for Christmas and with it you can make circles from 1 mm to 5 cm perfectly and easily, both on masking paper and on thin plastic sheets.

 

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I am going to use it for the first time to mask the multiple circular windows, and certainly small and difficult to mask in any other way, that it has in the fuselage.

As you can see in the selective scale of radius of the circle to obtain the cut made in the tape for the window that is seen below is only 2 mm and the result is absolutely spectacularly good. I hope or annoy the work painting because I have not placed any correctly positioned in the window.

 

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While drying the bloody two-component putty I started with the CMK resin spoilers.

It turned out that the upper and lower parts of the wings were already glued and I had to use a mini-saw to separate the 4 flaps. And driven by emotion I also cut the spoilers, which do not come in resin .... But this has given me the opportunity to move them; one up and one down.

Well, the resin kit has an especially fine piece to cover a gap between the bottom and top surfaces. I decided that it is stupid to use something as fine and fragile (and also difficult and cumbersome to glue as all the resin pieces are), and cover the hole with a simple 0.2 mm plastic sheet. It was much easier to work with.

After a short session of sandpaper was ready.

 

 

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Another point that I have worked while drying the bi component these days have been the propellers.

These aircraft parts almost never come well represented. Not so much for their more or less correct shapes but for the totally out of scale thickness of their blades. It is a point of the models that I resist leaving such as it comes in the kit. I show you a shovel worked with sandpaper and another one without working. I think the result is worth it; and I apologize again for the photos ...

 

 

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The last thing I have left to show you is the riveting and screwing work that the surface of the plane carries, and which I have not yet completely finished. For the screws I use a simple punch and for the rivets a Rossie riveter with the distance of 0.44 mm between the teeth of the wheel.

 

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For now, it is everything.

 

Andrés S.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I continue with the area of the wings where the flaps are placed.

The thickness of the plastic of the wings is great and once the resin pieces are placed, the thickness of the upper surface will be visible. To decrease it, I work the plastic with the mini drill and a milling machine, removing most of the plastic. Later I have used sandpaper, applying a small amount of extra-liquid glue at the end.

This is how the edge of the wing becomes thick once the flaps have been removed with the mini-saw.

 

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This is the aspect after working to reduce its thickness.

 

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And this photo is a comparison between the worked part and the other without working.

 

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Andrés S.

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The Aviocar has several navigation lights. One at the top of the drift, a similar one at the bottom of the fuselage, one at the end of each wing and finally one at the back of the fuselage.

To make the first two, I started with a piece of transparent staple, which I inserted as if it were a bit in the mini drill. And I used it as if it were a lathe to shape the piece using the edge of a cutter blade that I brought closer to the piece while it was spinning at 500 rpm. With 1,000 grit sandpaper I have smoothed the surface a little and later with a piece of paper. I have not insisted because there is a risk of melting the plastic due to the heat generated by friction.

After that I have bathed the piece in Future so that it had a shiny surface and finally I have cut it with a mini-saw at the distance that marks the red line that is seen in the photo.

 

 

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After that I have painted the two lights in Tamiya enamel transparent red.

 

I have made the lights at the wing ends using a piece of transparent sprue, softening the plastic, bringing it closer to the flame of a lighter. Once the plastic has softened, I have pressed against a photoengraving that has the shape of a teardrop of light, leaving this shape at the end of the piece of sprue. Once the plastic has cooled, I have cut them with a knife. I have painted these lights one in red and the other in Tamiya's transparent blue enamel.

The last light, the one on the back of the fuselage, I have also built with a piece of transparent sprue. With it, I have made stretched plastic and taken a piece of the appropriate thickness. With 1,000 grit sandpaper I have rounded one end and inserted it into Future to give it shine. This one I leave unpainted.

 

The lights will be glued at the end, using white glue.

 

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Andrés S.

 

 

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2 hours ago, RidgeRunner said:

Lucky chap! Thats a pricey bit of kit

It certainly is not a cheap item.


Normally the gift usually consists of a shirt, or some article of clothing, but in late November my wife came into my room and saw me looking at the circle cutter on AliExpress. He asked me what it was and I explained what it was for, then he asked me if I wanted it as a gift for Christmas and my answer was obviously yes ...:innocent:

 

Well, before continuing with the riveting of the upper part of the fuselage, I wanted to solve a couple of issues in the area.

In that place of the fuselage, next to the cockpit, there is a panel. That panel, which has a little relief and was badly damaged during the sanding of the union of the two parts of the fuselage. I have rebuilt it with thin plastic sheet.

According to the plans that I am using as a reference, there is a panel line next to that rectangular panel and that is not represented in the kit, so I have had to do it.

 

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Also following these plans as a reference, I have observed that on the back of the junction of the wing with the fuselage there are several panel lines that are not marked in the kit and must be done.

 

 

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The lines that are marked in green are easy to make, but those marked with yellow arrows were not so easy when I wanted to do them freehand and without any kind of guidance.

To do them I have been forced to make a template. This I have done after having placed Tamiya tape in place, highlighting in pencil where the line should go and helping me with the relief of the area. Subsequently, I transferred the tape to the plastic sheet and cut the shape. This template I made only from one half and once I made the panel line from that half I used it on the other side leaving the curvature of the line exactly the same on both sides.

 

 

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The marked line indicated by the black arrows is the result of having used black cyanoacrylate to cover it. The remaining arrows indicate the new panel lines.

 

 

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And now I can continue with the riveting of the upper part of the model, which I have not yet done to avoid that when joining the two parts of the fuselage there is no continuity between the lines of transversal rivets.

 

Andrés S.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi.

 

This model I have had to stop because I lost the piece of the front glass.


I have obtained that Special Hobby through its claim service sent me what is necessary. From here I want to express my gratitude and appreciation for great customer service.

 

I placed it in position using a brush and glue extra-liquid with care so that it extended by capillary action in the joint area. Even so, I had to use 0.25mm Evergreen sheet and a few small stretches of stretched plastic to seal a gap at the bottom. And finally I have used putty diluted in acetone to finish the gap filling job.

 

 

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After using the putty and carefully sanding the joints a second time, I sprayed a light gray to see if a third application of putty is necessary. And I found an error which forced me to another session of putty and sandpaper.

 

 

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For the boarding step, I decide not to use the kit part and make it with telephone cable wire. In its center I have placed rolled up a portion of self-adhesive aluminum to simulate the non-slip surface, where the foot rests, which will be in its black color.

 

 

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The same is done with the antenna on both sides of the upper part of the drift, which I replace with the same metallic wire.

In this photo you can also see a slice of plastic that will be the base of the navigation light that I previously made.

 

 

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The last thing done so far has been to place the rear navigation light. Made with stretched transparent plastic.

 

 

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Regards.

 

Andrés S.

 

 

 

 

 

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Another step.

 

Before placing the flaps you have to put in place a few very fine pieces protruding from the trailing edge of the wing itself. As the resin is always problematic for gluing, I replace them with thin strips of 0.13 mm Evergreen.

 

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And the finished painting propellers, but only the propellers. The hub on the left is just for your presentation. Since I have seen that the propellers had a slightly different color than the rest of the plane, the hub left it for when I applied the paint.

 

 

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Regards.

 

Andrés S.

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Well, today I have taken two more steps towards the airbrush. There it goes.

 

I have assembled the remaining pieces that form the flaps after riveting them because they did not bring it from home and if I had not done so, it would have collided with the rest of the plane, including the nearby spoilers.

I think they will give me some  headaches when I go to put them under the wings (in the final photo they are only put without sticking to them). We'll see...

 

Andrés S.

 

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Well, ready for painting.

 

I leave you some photos of the general appearance that it will have. But before finishing this post, I would like to remove from the head anyone who wants to make this model of using CMK resins for flaps.

The instructions are clear but they lie. 8 actuators are indicated on the flaps, 4 for the internal ones and 4 for the external ones. Given that they have different and similar numbering among equals, it is to be expected that the exteriors are different from the interiors. Well, it's not like that. Actuators are mixed in the waterers which are misplaced if the instructions are followed. And since you have to stick them with cyanoacrylate ...


Furthermore, the only point of attachment between the flaps and the wing are the actuators and they are extremely fine and therefore fragile. If I had known this before, I would not have used them even if they supposedly add a plus to the model.
The kit allows the depth rudders and rudder to be moved. With this and cut and leave the spoilers in position (which I have also done) I think that is enough.
If I had known this with the flaps I would not have placed them.

 

 

Now I have to find a mixture of paint to try to represent the color of the plane.

 

In this photo you can see at the end an airplane with the relatively recent painting (perhaps due to a complete revision). But most of the photos I have gotten show the Aviocar in gray with very faded paint, even patches.

 

 

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In these photos, which are of the plane that I want to represent, in addition to it you can see that the drift navigation light has transparent glass instead of red so I will have to strip the piece I made for it.

Well, when I decide with the paint tone I will put more advances.

 

 

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And a couple of photographs of the model as it is now.

 

 

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Andrés S.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Well as it was written they have fallen by KO in the first round ...:dull:

 

But I do not care. And since he is not going to go to the showcase anymore (and surely not that ...) I am going to continue, and trying to put into practice a little thing, since I have learned a couple of points from construction with him. Things that will help me, along with what I learn with painting, for those who definitely do.

 

Well, the red propeller warning band nearby comes in decal but things like that are always better painted. After applying white as a base so that the red looks as it should I sprayed it from Gunze and masked with 1 mm tape that I remove after applying the base color. This has been a mixture of 35% AK RC-237 Medium Gray FS-35237 and 65% White XF-2 from Tamiya. The FS-35237 is supposedly the color as it leaves the factory and varying the proportion of this with the white up or down, I will make some shades, repainting patches etc as I progress in the paint.

 

Andrés S.

 

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Brilliant work, great attention to detail and explanation of what modifications you have made and why. These are great little aircraft and this will look really good.

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1 minute ago, Parabat said:

Brilliant work, great attention to detail and explanation of what modifications you have made and why. These are great little aircraft and this will look really good.

Thank you for your kind words, they are appreciated.

 

Andrés S.

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Hi.

 

Well, as I have advanced I have played by varying the proportion upwards of the AK gray color in the airbrush and I have tried to simulate areas less affected by the wear of the paint, some traces of dirt that will be reinforced later on with oils or tones of Vallejo MC and the simulation of having patched some areas like the one in the numerals.

 

I apologize because I am not a good photographer and some points of the photographs are not properly focused or sharp. So I have taken some general shots and some closer.

 

Andrés S.

 

 

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11 hours ago, TheyJammedKenny! said:

It looks amazing so far.  The scale effect of your painting techniques are really remarkable.

Thanks.

 

6 hours ago, Rémi said:

A great job on this Casa 212 !

Thanks.

 

 

Another step.

And, so I will leave it after applying Vallejo MC; I do not see it to make tricks made with oils as with the Viggen deposit, with the ones made with Vallejo in some points of the wings, I think it is going well.

After painting the cone of the bow and the bands of the leading edges of the different planes in black, I will varnish and apply oil to panel and highlight details.

 

Andrés S.

 

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I would like to thank Milhajo (Miguel) for the support, advice, the long modeling talks, his time etc etc etc. But especially his generosity, which started a long time ago with the altruistic shipment of some decals he needed for a MIG-15. MIG-15 that will surely resume after this one. Generosity by offering to make some numbers and nationality roundels in a mask with Tamiya graph paper and self-adhesive using their cutting plotter, both for the VIGGEN and for the Aviocar.

 

I just want to tell you THANK YOU FRIEND.

 

Last night I painted the leading edges of the wings, stabilizers and drift black. As the plane is supposed to be a bit sun-damaged I didn't want to use Tamiya's black so I have used Gunze's H-77 tire which is not pure and deep black. With it I have also painted the numerals and for the red of the rosettes the red XF-7 of Tamiya although without having much influence with it for the same reason. The yellow used has been the Tamiya XF-3 to which I normally add an orange dot but this time and also for the same reason of the discoloration I have not done it.

It is already varnished. I hope to be able to panel and highlight details shortly.

 

A photo of the upper cockade of the left wing.

 

 

 

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And a batch of photos with the process carried out with the numerals , having previously painted the roundel.

 

 

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Andrés S.

 

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