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Spitfire Mk.I N3200 +++FINISHED+++


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My entry for this GB will be Tamiya's 1.48 new tool Spitfire Mk.I.

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I will be building it represent the restored Mk.I currently being operated by IWM Duxford. A couple of birthdays ago, my brother bought me a Classic Wings flight experience of a flight in a de Havilland Dragon Rapide in formation with a Spitfire, N3200 was that Spitfire. It was a fantastic experience to see a Spitfire up close in her natural environment.  The Tamiya kit contains decals for this aircraft, all I will need to source are the IWM logo and Duxford name for the nose.

 

Spitfire Mk.I N3200

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 05/04/2020 at 09:30, Valkyrie said:

Wow, nice build idea, also fancy seeing how this kit builds up as I would like it...see it in the hands of a master first.

If you find a master, let me know! I would like to see that as well. I do have Brett Green's 'How to build Tamiya's 1:48 Spitfire' as a reference. Aiming to give it a read before I start. Just need to finish my In the Navy GB entries.

 

On 05/04/2020 at 22:50, alt-92 said:

Keeping an eye on this. I'm facing the same query wrt the logo.
 

Still thinking about the logo. Thinking about either using white decal sheet with the lettering printed on it and then cut to shape or trying to create a mask. Will probably need to experiment nearer the time. I also want to build a 1/72 version to display in flight. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally made a start this week. First off the sprue photo.

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I am using a replacement instrument panel from the Eduard Look range, looks really nice and comes with a coloured etched harness, which I think is an improvement on the supplied etch harness.

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Fuselage painted, using Humbrol 78 for the cockpit

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The replacement panel look really good. probably a better result than i could have got using the kit decals. It was a straight repacement.

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Fuselage halves joined.

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I am really enjoying this kit, lots of details, goes together really well. Just pays to read the instructions carefully before you start as there are a number of different options, holes to open up depending on which scheme you choose.

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@PlaStix I am well thanks. Lucky enough to be able to work from home.Thought I would have a bit more spare time, but doesn't seem to be working out that way.

 

Airframe primed with Halfords grey plastic primer. Will now leave if for a couple of days to properly dry before starting the paint scheme. Prop painted.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The weekend is with us again, so made some more progress. 

 

Masked up using the AML masks and ready for the Vallejo dark green.

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Couple of hours later, masked removed. I like the result, just abit of tiding up before I gloss coat and decal.

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Decaling underway, now turningv my attention to reproducing the Duxford name and IWM Logo which appears on the port side of the nose.

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Going through my spare decals, I decided to use the 6" lettering from an Xtradecal sheet of letters and numerals. The Logo was made up from 5mm  white stripe with black lettering.

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Logo not perfect but looks ok from a distance.

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I’ve got one of these for the BoB GB, really looking forward to building her. I will be using your thread a a reference.

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@Ozzy The main advice I would give is to decide which marking option your going for and to read the instructions carefully, as there are  a number of subtle variations between each option.

 

You will enjoy it as it is really a nice kit.

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11 hours ago, Jb65rams said:

@Ozzy The main advice I would give is to decide which marking option your going for and to read the instructions carefully, as there are  a number of subtle variations between each option.

 

You will enjoy it as it is really a nice kit.

I’ve been pooring over the instructors, my biggest challenge will be working out where to cut as I’m doing wheels up. I’ve got some camouflage paint masks to use for the first time.

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@Ozzy Should look good wheels up.

 

Below a detailed photo of the UC, might help. Sould be straight forward to do. Thinking about it I would cut the oleo's just short so they only just extend under the gear door. When closing the doors I usually hold them in place with a blob of blue tack on the inside which allows you to move the door to get a good fit before applying Tamiya Extra Thin. 

 

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