Panzerhaubitze 2000, 1/24 scale, Scratchbuild

[Bandsaw Steve]

As there is a ‘no politics’ rule on BM I will decline to comment beyond saying, I have a strong preference for one particular side in this stupid and completely unnecessary war…

 

I hope that’s OK…

[brianthemodeller]

On 6/27/2022 at 11:09 AM, GMK said:

 

First pics. 

That would certainly save a lot of detailing work...

[Bandsaw Steve]

Tracks and Wheels

 

When I started this project I figured that the tracks and the wheels would be the most challenging aspects of the whole thing.  So far that has turned out to be the case but only because I really did not know how to make the tracks and tried many different methods before I hit on the simple and practical 'steaming' method discussed previously.  Now I need to start on the next tricky part; getting the tracks and the wheels to assemble together correctly.  This post will cover the start of that process.

 

Back on Page 8 of this thread under 'Teething Problems' I made a  strip of triangular track teeth to go on the inside center of the tracks. I now need to trim the sharp triangular point off each of these teeth as shown below. This is for two reasons: Firstly, It will make the model more accurate, because on the real thing each tooth is actually blunt. Secondly, the shorter the teeth are the easier it will be to slip the tracks over the wheels and into position.

 

 

In order to prevent the teeth from clashing with the wheels, each wheel must have a slot cut in it.  Of course on the real thing the slot is just a gap between two narrow wheels joined together but I'm too lazy to do it that way.  

 

Here you can see the basic idea. The teeth are now attached to the inside of the track run and will sit in the slots cut in the roadwheels and rear idlers. 

 

Here's a close-up view of the assembly coming together. Note however that this photo was taken before the slots were cut in all of the wheels, hence the awkward 'sit' of the closest three.  

 

At about this point I realized just how rough the construction of  some of these wheels were, in particular the enormous gap between the resin hub and outer wheel-rim.

 

This was easily fixed with some Vallejo filler on each wheel.

 

Before all of this can go together there is a great deal of paint-work that must be completed. So primer goes onto the wheels in readiness.

 

As the PZH 2000 has recently been prominent in the news it seems appropriate for this model to be completed in Ukrainian colors, rather than the German army Afghanistan colors originally intended.   In the next post expect to see some green paint.

 

Till then,  stay safe and very best regards,

Bandsaw Steve

 

 

 

 

[Model Mate]

This looking great Steve - everything coming together nicely. Brilliant work - I can’t wait to see it painted.

[Bandsaw Steve]

Going Green

 

Initially my intention with this model was to finish it in German colors as deployed in Afghanistan and as shown immediately below.

 

Unfortunate recent events in Eastern Europe have now made me change my mind.  This model will now be finished in a temperate camouflage scheme similar to that shown below, but probably with a small Ukrainian flag or coat-of-arms in place of the Bundeswehr cross.

 

For the last twenty years or so I've used acrylic paints of various brands but recently I had the opportunity to use SMS (Scale Modellers Supply) acrylic lacquers and have decided that these are now my airbrushing paint of choice.

These come 'airbrush ready' - no dilution with any thinners required - and they run through the airbrush like a dream. With paints like these even I might be able to get a half decent finish.  Here's my best guess as to the correct colors for this scheme. 

 

Here goes the green going onto the wheel hubs.

 

And the turret getting the treatment.

 

The side armored skirts.

 

So far so good... but the  paint on the turret is still a bit thin and needs another coat.

 

Give the hull a quick squirt...

 

and end up with this.

 

As you can see I've applied a small area of black and tan to see how the colors work together. I think that they look about right and will get dulled down a little bit with some weathering in due course.

 

So that's it for now.

 

Next I have to paint the tracks and the roadwheel tyres and then fit all the running gear and the tracks to the model. This could prove challenging but I think I have worked out a method.

 

Best Regards,

Bandsaw Steve

 

 

 

 

 

[Niall]

Do you know that the 3 colour camouflage scheme is not random, all vehicles have the same design?

 

I would recommend using kit instructions for a 1/72nd scale or 1/35th scale model as a guide.

[GMK]

Whoa! That looks amazing @Bandsaw Steve 

 

I love the SMS stuff. Have shifted to it exclusively. 
 

So close to the finish line. 

[Bandsaw Steve]

13 minutes ago, Niall said:

Do you know that the 3 colour camouflage scheme is not random, all vehicles have the same design?

 

I would recommend using kit instructions for a 1/72nd scale or 1/35th scale model as a guide.

Yep! I am aware that the camouflage pattern is standardised. The Black and Tan that’s on there now is just a random sample to check that the colours look OK. Those patches will need to be over-painted.
 

The Meng 1/35 plans are available on-line and given the exceptional quality of that kit I think that their paint guides will be reliable. That’s what I’m planning on using as a pattern reference.

[hendie]

colorful update Steve.  I've also been using SMS paints recently and find them very good. Mr Color is my paint of choice but SMS is a close second

[Muchmirth]

The detailing on those side panels has come out clearer in those pics and looks immaculate and oh so precise. Top job Steve. 

[Courageous]

Always nice to see the paint go on.

 

Stuart

[Bandsaw Steve]

Tracks

 

From the start the most worrying and - I think - interesting aspect of this project has been how to scratch-build and then fit the tracks. 

 

I'm very happy, and a little bit relieved, to say that this part of the build is now successfully concluded. Here are the last few steps.

 

Undercoat the tracks just the same as you might for any other styrene part.

 

Give them a rough dry-fit to ensure that there are no major surprises.

 

Give them a lick of paint , in this case I've chosen Tamiya XF-84 'dark iron' applied with a flat hairy stick in several very diluted coats.

 

Dry brush with some acrylic metallic silver.

 

Pick out the rubber pads with some Tamiya NATO black acrylic.  This paint is very good for representing rubber as it's dead matt and actually a very dark grey shade rather than absolute black.  Note that I've used the same paint on the roadwheels. 

 

All of which leaves an effect like this.  The top return run of the tracks does not require painting as it will be covered with shielding and will never be seen.

 

Now dry-fit the wheels and check that the slots where the track teeth will sit all line up nicely. Here I’ve fitted a ruler into the slot just to check. Due to some careless work earlier on, one or two slots did not line up perfectly and had to be widened.

 

Dry fit again, making sure that everything fits together and that all of the teeth fit into the slots that have been cut for them in each wheel.

 

Starting with the rearmost wheel use two-part epoxy glue to fix each wheel in turn while constantly ensuring that the track teeth sit correctly in their slots.

 

 

Which should - once the side armour is taped in place - leave you with this...  Note that the front drive sprocket is still not fitted. That's been intentionally left till last.

 

The drive sprocket is left till last is because it's the only wheel where the track teeth do not have to sit within a  very tight slot. The gap between the inner and outer sprocket is about 1.5cm wide so there's much more wriggle room when wrestling this final wheel into place.

In the image below you can see the drive sprocket in-place and engaging with the articulations on the outer edge of the track. They were all specifically designed to fit together and in the end - much to my surprise - they did! 🙂

 

Here are a handful of photos, with the side skirts temporarily fitted, to show the final effect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Given that at the start of this project I had no idea how I would make the tracks and for the last few weeks have been very worried about whether I can fit them without wrecking something I can say that I am very pleased with this outcome. 👍

 

This is a major milestone for this project and  I think I am justified in saying that I think this is now under control.

 

Best Regards,

Bandsaw Steve

 

 

 

[Model Mate]

Brilliant work Steve - the tracks look great!

[ArnoldAmbrose]

Gidday Steve, congratulations on reaching this milestone. The tracks and wheels look great. Is there much more to do? And WASMEx 2023? 🙂

Regards, Jeff.

[SafetyDad]

Just caught back up with your revived thread here Steve - excellent job there on the tracks, detailing and painting!

 

SD

[Bandsaw Steve]

44 minutes ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday Steve, congratulations on reaching this milestone. The tracks and wheels look great. Is there much more to do? And WASMEx 2023? 🙂

Regards, Jeff.

Yep- still a fair way to go. Track covers over the front and rear tracks. A lot more work on the rear then painting, markings, machine gun, hand tools (shovels and so-forth), weathering and a base. 
 

So, should be finished by about 2030… 🤣

[ArnoldAmbrose]

7 minutes ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

So, should be finished by about 2030… 🤣

Great. 👍 I'll be careful not to bump the table with my gopher. 😁 Regards, Jeff.

[hendie]

7 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

So, should be finished by about 2030… 🤣

 

it's just gone 4:30 pm here so you have a couple of hours left. I'm sure you can do it.

 

Those tracks do look very effective Steve - great job.

I must admit to a small intake of breath early on where I saw you had the track outside facing inside or was it back to front, or left side on the right side or vice versa? (I know it wasn't upside down) and thought... I hope he hasn't started gluing it yet.

But you hadn't.

 

[Bandsaw Steve]

2 hours ago, hendie said:

 

 

I must admit to a small intake of breath early on where I saw you had the track outside facing inside

 

Ditto!

 

I picked up that mistake just in time.

 

Had I missed it there would have been a much larger intake of breath followed by a long, loud exaltation of two-syllable words.

 

It seems that in such cases ‘grabbing which ever is nearest’ is not a method that guarantees success. 

[ArnoldAmbrose]

5 hours ago, hendie said:

I must admit to a small intake of breath early on where I saw you had the track outside facing inside

Well spotted. I missed that. Obviously I'll need a gopher fitted with a white cane.

And I repeat, the tracks do look good. Regards, Jeff.

[BIG X]

WOW!!!  I've spent all morning trawling through your thread Steve - AMAZING WORK!!!

 

Steve

[Bandsaw Steve]

Thanks @BIG X. Mostly thanks to your enthusiasm I have just ‘Won the day’ on BM, which is only the second time I have ever managed this! 👍

[BIG X]

43 minutes ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

Thanks @BIG X. Mostly thanks to your enthusiasm I have just ‘Won the day’ on BM, which is only the second time I have ever managed this! 👍

Well deserved too (nudge nudge - wink wink) 😉

[Bandsaw Steve]

13 minutes ago, BIG X said:

Well deserved too (nudge nudge - wink wink) 😉

Yes- I think we are on the same wavelength…

[Bandsaw Steve]

Rear End

 

Now that the wheels and tracks are on this thing I can fully enclose them. I'm going to start with the large track cover / fender things at the rear of the vehicle.

 

Before I started though I used some of my favored 'Valeho' plastic putty to close up the gap between the edge of the hull and the vertical armour plate skirts.  There was also some grey primer sprayed over some of the green paint at this stage, so from some angles the nice green paint is getting messed up. It's all part of the plan though. 👍

 

A few months ago I was in my favorite Gundam / 'pop-culture' modelling store (they have all kinds of very groovy stuff for scratch-building) and found a bag of these things for sale. They are long strips of grey styrene with a single, precise 90 degree corner. They are manufactured by 'Wave Corporation' , the same Japanese folks that made the gridded plastic sheet that earlier on featured prominently in this build. These are intended to be internal corner brackets when building with styrene . I gave them a try.

 

The red arrow in the photograph below points to the corner where I used a small length as a bracket to strengthen the side-skirts. These make good brackets and they work well, but straight after I'd used it I realized that I also had a bag of perfectly cut cubes of wood purchased -for next-to-nothing - from a craft store for the purpose of holding things at 90 degrees. 

 

Cardboard is another inexpensive product that I'm using more and more. Here I'm developing a cardboard pattern that will ensure that I cut more expensive sheets polystyrene to exactly the correct shape.

 

Here is the finished pattern in position.

 

Now the pattern is traced onto the polystyrene and the sheet is cut.

 

As an aside; during the cutting process I realized that a small belt sander provides a lightning-quick way to round off unwanted styrene corners. It's a surprisingly accurate also!

 

In the end I used a combination of wooden and plastic brackets to create a strong, 90-degree, box-like structure.  

 

Now just add the rear panels as shown...

 

Add some surface detail...

 

and now the rear end is finally starting to look something like the real thing.

 

All going well the next post should be something very similar with the front fenders / track covers being constructed. That step should mark the end of the construction of large structural items. The rest will be details and additions.  So we really are starting to get to the rear end of this project.

 

Best Regards,

Bandsaw Steve