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1/350 HMS Kent County Class Cruiser 1941


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So with some trepidation - trowel it on I did..

 

 

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The result for a first go was not a complete disaster

 

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so - a second application and the coverage increased

 

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It's worked - allbeit with a LOT of tim sanding.

I've decided the next move is to go to Mr Surfacer 1000, though with Covid the delivery time will be several days :owww:

 

On a very mundane note the prop shafts were fitted without drama

 

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It's going to be one of those backwards and forwards builds!

Rob

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Glad Mr. Surfacer is working!   Nice to know for the future.

 

I don't envy you doing all that sanding around those small bits.

 

John

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I reckon cut off the bollards and vents on the sides, you can replace them anyways. That will make it easier for you to even out.  Is there a design pattern for the metal plates? 

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That’s brave Rob!

 

I would have taken Nelson’s approach and say ‘I see no plate’.. 🙃

 

Looking good...

 

Guy

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WOW it actually looks like you have stuck some plastic bit together  :whistle:

 

beefy

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Thanks John.

 

11 hours ago, RGL said:

I reckon cut off the bollards and vents on the sides, you can replace them anyways. That will make it easier for you to even out.  Is there a design pattern for the metal plates? 

RGL - Good call.  I can be obtuse at times.  I owe you a beer :winkgrin:

 

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I suspect the seign pattern is the same as this

 

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It's not going to happen!

39 minutes ago, Gisbod said:

That’s brave Rob!

I would have taken Nelson’s approach and say ‘I see no plate’.. 🙃

Looking good...

Guy

Thanks guy - it was tempting!

Rob

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Bold but entirely appropriate first steps Rob. I'm really looking forward to seeing this build evolve.

 

Terry

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13 hours ago, robgizlu said:

On a very mundane note the prop shafts were fitted without drama

Gidday Rob, it might seem mundane but very important -the ship won't move without them. It is a job I like to do very early. It's a lot easier when the model can be inverted, as you've done. Some of my early Airfix ships done as a kid left this job til last. Trying to hold the model in one hand and fix the shafts and screws with the other was most awkward.

Good job on the foc'sle.

Regards, Jeff.

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I’ve ordered the same kit and upgrade PE. WEM has just released their set but I don’t know if it progresses it any further. 

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On 4/20/2020 at 3:03 PM, RGL said:

I’ve ordered the same kit and upgrade PE. WEM has just released their set but I don’t know if it progresses it any further. 

Hi RGL

I have a "Cornwall" set on order fro WEM and the "Kent" set designed by Peter Hall will be some time coming.

This build is a bit stuck at the moment awaiting deliveries all slowed up by Covid from WEM, Micromaster and Northstar.

 

I had a minor epiphany looking through the Northstar "shop" when i stumbled across this .....

 

North Star Models - Engraved plate - 1mm Diamond

 

Here's a screen grab showing the very same on Kent in 1939

 

And lo and behold whilst searching for 1/144 railings (don't ask) I stumbled across this

 

1mm Checker plate raised diamonds

 

So the plan is NOW to shave ALL the anchor fittings off and cut metal plate to lay over then replace said fittings  :confused::weep:

Here's a reminder...

 

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Kev, John and the brethren - any ideas on how I repicate the "lip" of those anchor "drains".  I can cut holes so that the sunken bits will fit and I'm pondering how to then "relip" them?

I'll try "shaving " them of but that's going to be hit and miss.  I have a Huron PE cutters which I'm hoping wil cut the metal sheet??

The great irony is that Trumpeter's Cornwall HAS the Diamond Sheet plating focsle!! :rage:

 

And talking of which - I reflected that I seemed to have collected enough PE etch to finish a second Kent Class Cruiser, so I'm seriously thinking of building Cornwall or Berwick alongside :whistle:

So I'm trying to carry on with non hull bits at the moment.  The 3 funnels had multiple stays attached which are very prominent.  Workign out where they are on the funnels is straightforwards but where they go to on the deck considerably less so, not helped by the absence of a proper deck plan :hmmm:

 

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Oh and BTW the Eduard 4" gun steel platings supplied don't match the timbered deck bases on Kent - so the'll need to be filled :frantic:

Order has at least been restored to the universe vis a vis my spelling hiccough

 

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And finally I took delivery of this tome as recommended by young Mr Duff.  I picked it up for less than£30 and whilst Belfast is really the only Town class ship that appears in easily accessible model form - the pics within are a delight and give me lots of insight into how Cruisers were rigged etc.  

 

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I'm waiting for Friedman's Cruiser book and I manged to buy a copy of Raven and Roberts "British Cruisers of WW2" on Ebay for a half sensible price which hopefully will wing it's way to me.

Rob

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Hi Rob, do you have Les Brown's County Class Cruisers Ship Craft book? There's a nice photograph taken of HMAS Australia on page 5 showing where a few of the funnel stays land reasonably clearly. I checked British Warships of the Second World War by John Roberts which I knew had a few of the builders plans of HMS Kent inside, but they all omit these stays.

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37 minutes ago, robgizlu said:

anchor "drains"

Gidday Rob - hawse pipes. And I'm becoming very jealous of your library. 🙂 You are certainly going into this build deeply. I'm very interested in what you do because I wish to do a County class conversion one day. But it won't be at your level. Mine will simply be a build of HMAS Australia 1944 from an Airfix 1/600 HMS Suffolk. But no doubt I'll learn things from you. Regards, Jeff.

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1 hour ago, robgizlu said:

So the plan is NOW to shave ALL the anchor fittings off and cut metal plate to lay over then replace said fittings 

That would be my approach. Re the anchor drain "lips". I'd cut each one out using vertical cuts, cutting just outside the lips, clean up the exterior verticals of each, then get them ready to re-seat them into your plated deck. Easily said I'm sure, but could be donw I reckon.

 

Terry

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Hi Rob.  That deck plate is a great solution to cover the 'wood'.

 

2 hours ago, robgizlu said:

... any ideas on how I repicate the "lip" of those anchor "drains". ...

For the "drains" (hawse pipes) lips, I'd measure the thickness first then trace the shapes onto paper before removing them from the deck.  Cut out the paper shapes & trace them onto plastic card or metal foil, depending on the thickness you need.  Cut out the traced parts & glue them in place, keeping a tube of putty handy to blend the glued parts to the deck & the molded openings.  Finally, sand the lip edges to get the proper profile.

 

Another method would be using a moldable product, such a Tamiya's epoxy putty, to make rolled 'worms' a little larger diameter than size as the lips & then form them around the deck openings.  The Tamiya putty will stick nicely to the deck.  After the putty dries, it can be sanded down to the proper shape & profile.  I'd outline the shape with masking tape before sanding, to protect the deck.

 

Hope this helps.

 

John

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3 hours ago, robgizlu said:

any ideas on how I repicate the "lip" of those anchor "drains"

 

Hi Rob am I right in thinking youre asking about the raise deck lip around the hawse holes?

If that is the case how about a suitable sized strand of wire. Possible from a single strand from flex.

The gap to be filled with filler/PVA glue

 

HTH

 

Kev

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If you can find styrene tube of around the right diameter (say 3mm) ans cut at an angle you'll get some nice oval slices. Might be a bit trial and error to get it looking right.

Tom

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The North Star plate may not be big enough to cover the area. I used it on my Emden. It appears that the plating also does not go all the way to the breakwater but to a strait line just behind the capstans. I’m in the same ‘boat’ with micromaster buy have a Borodino and Zara to finish. I’d like to do up an Australia as well with the extras but cannot be sure of the configurations at 1944

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Rob:

 

One more complication, if you want to be totally accurate: the metal deck amidships was also covered with the diamond non-slip pattern, as shown on this screen grab of an IWM film of HMS Kent here:

 

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I wasn't sure if I should tell you or not, because of the heart/headache it might cause! Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, and I would just add the grid pattern to the forecastle deck forward of the breakwater.

 

Here are some additional details, including a view of the non-slip pattern on the forecastle deck forward of the breakwater:

 

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At the 15:30-15:45 minute mark of the film you can see that the metal non-slip pattern deck appears to extend all the way back to the breakwater.

 

And here is a detail of the bridge (you can see panoramic views of the bridge area in the original film). Beyond the top of the bridge you can see planking atop the main deckhouse--a detail captured in the Trumpeter kit you are building, but omitted from the Aoshima 1/700 Kent kit:

 

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The original film can be seen here--it was reportedly taken between July-August 1939:

 

https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060009592

Most noteworthy for me were the segments showing the forecastle deck and anchor tackle gear at 10:05-11:00 and 15:27-15:42, and a panoramic view of the bridge at 16:00-16:21. Now you have no excuse for not going to town in detailing the open bridge!

 

Hope these help you with your build. I look forward to watching.

 

Stay healthy!!!

 

Best,

 

Mike E.

 

 

 

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On 4/25/2020 at 2:44 PM, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

Hi Rob, do you have Les Brown's County Class Cruisers Ship Craft book? There's a nice photograph taken of HMAS Australia on page 5 showing where a few of the funnel stays land reasonably clearly. I checked British Warships of the Second World War by John Roberts which I knew had a few of the builders plans of HMS Kent inside, but they all omit these stays.

I do thanks Jamie,and as you say that's one of the clearest with regard to placment of the stays on the funnel.  Less so as to their origin.

 

Thanks for the various suggestions Chaps.  There is some tracing paper winging it's way chez Matthews.

 

Mike - thanks for your inout - I've watched this video severeal times and I'm happy that as you say the non slip on the foc'sle exends back to the breakwater.  I had clocked the amidships plate as well.  You are quite right my heart did sink :lol:

I've got 3 separate piecs of non slip sheet arriving so I had gently anticipated.  The Cornwall PE set from Peter Hall does allow for some extended nonslip ....

 

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I'm uncertain which gun this pic portrays.  I can't place the sloping diagonal girder structure to the right of the pic.  What is also intersting is that there appear to be ?corticene mats down directly around th gun.

I'll cross this bridge when the sheets arrive.  Waiting for "Stuff" to arrive being the general current theme :shrug:

 

A build was posted across on Model Warships oveer th W/E which was intersting as the author had used the WEM set and commented that within, there was adice that the "scallop" doors are incorrect and were used in wartime but not of course inthe 20's when Kent was built :confused:.  Makes sense so....

 

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these little fellas will be coming off and yet another order to WEM and a frantic Email to Simon (Micromaster) to barter for Replacement WW1 doors NOT WW2.  (he was great by the way, and congratulations to NZ BTW who announced they were Covid free this AM)

 

The lack of good detailed references is beginning to be frustrating.  I envy Evert-Jan @foeth after looking at the HMS Hood web site yesterday which is festooned with detailed images.

 

And I have ONE further QUESTION for you all.  When it comes to portholes - do you drill or paint using something glossy?  I've been experimenting with Mig Ammo Crystal smoke.  I'd be intersted to hear what you all do ?  Thanks

Rob

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Good luck with the hawse pipe lips, Rob.

 

4 hours ago, robgizlu said:

When it comes to portholes - do you drill or paint using something glossy? 

I've always painted my 1/72 scale portholes gloss black. B)  No real reason why, other than I feel the gloss black gives the portholes some reflective properties & depth.  For me, at 1/350 scale it would probably be easier to drill the portholes out instead of painting them.

 

Here are a couple of 1/72 examples for reference.

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Below, the chart house windows are clear plastic & the deck dead lights are painted gloss black.  At this angle, visually there's no difference. 

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John

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Rob:

 

Our friend Mitsuaki Kubota ("Fake John Bull") speculated that the "sloping diagonal girder structure" you mention is the tip of one of the ship's cranes, so this would be the starboard forward 4" HA gun looking aft. I tend to agree with his assessment.

 

See here: 

And note that the non-slip pattern does not extend all that far aft...

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike

Edited by michaele
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6 hours ago, robgizlu said:

When it comes to portholes - do you drill or paint using something glossy?

Hi Rob I have used a couple of methods on 1/350 ships Drilled out and have used a HB pencil to colour in swirl the pencil point around in the porthole and it gives you a slight shine to give a sense of glass.

 

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Stay Safe

beefy

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On 4/27/2020 at 2:35 PM, michaele said:

Rob:

 

Our friend Mitsuaki Kubota ("Fake John Bull") speculated that the "sloping diagonal girder structure" you mention is the tip of one of the ship's cranes, so this would be the starboard forward 4" HA gun looking aft. I tend to agree with his assessment.

 

See here: 

And note that the non-slip pattern does not extend all that far aft...

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike

 

Thanks Mike - that seems entirely logical, and in a lazy fashion saves me cutting curves in etch metal plate :winkgrin:

 

Thanks Beefy - the pencil is new on me and makes  every sense - Which is your favourite method?

 

Thanks John - very effective.

 

Actually manged to get some modelling done yesterdayand the theme was ......funnels

 

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Thank you to Mick for the tip about pressing etch in to a rubber :yahoo:  Without that single hint there's no telling what carnage I might have wreaked with those top grills!

 

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I'm a huge fan of https://www.bobsbuckles.co.uk/ and they're my go to solution to fix stays to etc.

 

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There are precisely 32 imbedded in the 3 funnels awaiting stays to be fixed.

 

The pencil lines on the deck are there to line up holes to take more buckles to anchor the stays

 

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I mentioned the frustaion of having no detailed plans in my last post.  Bizzarely I checkedd again on the web today to see if any copies of Profile Morskie HMS Kent had come up only to find it availbale on the Profile Morskie site as a second print (It was unavailable last week "sold out").  Needless to say a copy is winging it's way and it may provide a little clarity as to just where the stays all go to and from.  I've never seen one of their (?his) publications previously and am aware that there are murmurs about accuracy etc.  Rather ominously there is a statement warning that "You can buy our paper books only to the 31st may 2019".  My money got taken so we shall wait and see.

 

With little work possible to do on the hull pending deliveries, I began the Walrus which a rather dinky little thing...

 

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And the excellent news for me is that the White Ensign Models etch arrived today - it's complimentary to the Eduard set in some ways and whilst it's bigger - don't forget there is a separate Eduard "Railings" offering (that I don't have). 

 

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The Eduard set very notably includes the turret roof detail coverings - there's one visible in the first pic that comes out surprisingly well.  I'll do a comparison with the Micromaster resin version in due course.

Thanks for looking

Rob

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Hi Rob all looking very good will have to look into the Bob's buckles

As for the portholes my last two builds I have used the pencil method on KGV and Sovremenny IMHO I think that works best for me.

The WEM set looks very busy compared to the Eduard how do the thickness of the frets compare I always think the WEM is slightly finer in thickness and you have to be that bit more careful with the parts.

 

beefy

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