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Gisbod

Revell 1/144 Flower Class Corvette + Pontos Photo Update

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Posted (edited)

Hello all,

 

I basically don’t build ships. I’ve always liked the idea of doing so and I had started a couple but never managed to finish them, I always had a PE disaster at some point! 
 

However, I have succumbed once again to at least try as I’m having a lack of mojo in my normal aircraft mode, and I thought this could be my ‘lockdown’ project. I’m a pilot at BA so it looks like I should be getting some extra time off!

 

The Revell kit is fairly new I believe (2016?), and as it stands out of the box, it’s probably a little clunky for a modern kit, that said it certainly has potential, and with all Revell kits, you get a lot for your money, but I would say extras are essential for an accurate build. The Pontos set is excellent, but not cheap. I’ve also just seen some Model Masters 3D printed extras (thanks to @robgizlu ) and they look great, but again, pricey! Any info on the company? Does an order take a long time? I see they’re in NZ? If it’s going to take weeks I might be put off...

 

Anyway, this is what I bought:

 

 

1227-AC2-B-F18-B-4-FF2-AAD4-13-F4-B2-CB5

 


 

93-BC9526-C66-B-47-A0-AFF0-8-AD50-B8-D75


 

Some beautiful brass...

 

 

A9-E68413-7-C5-D-41-BB-BC0-C-7-BCF188269
 

 

 

And a lot of instructions! I’m not a great fan of the instructions - great photos, but the format of the loose sheets is not ideal for me - a booklet would have been better and it’s all a little random in its layout, but that’s nit picking, I’m sure others would like them.

 

 

BD3135-DF-1377-45-D0-83-F4-EB539-BEFD6-A

 

 

As Snowberry is so ubiquitous, I’d like to do a different colour scheme. I’m not over keen on a white ship anyway. I quite like the look of HMCS Heather (K-69) as in this artwork:

 

1-A635-D10-BB5-B-4-B4-B-B5-D5-EE04-A3265

 

 

 

However, that doesn’t seem to quite tie in with these photos? The grey seems much darker - almost black? I’m not a stickler for total authenticity, so I don’t mind building a fairly generic model  - I know they differ somewhat in layout.

 

 

EE98-C403-324-A-4965-9424-E324-C308-F3-A

 


 

8-C56-ECF3-A0-F5-4-C14-983-B-A2-C9829367

 

 

I’ve made a start anyway and the first thing of note is the stern is a separate part that leaves a great big fat join which isn’t the easiest thing to blend in! 
 

 

6309-E9-F7-DC63-4-B5-F-AF12-59-E58-A0-EE

 


Seen better from the inside...

 

 

3-A1-BE26-D-4635-405-C-97-EA-65955125511

 

 

 

A27-C65-A1-F82-B-497-B-B353-39-E5-F36-C7
 

 

 

That said, the fit of the decks is pretty good and bodes well for the rest of the build.

 

 

3966-F772-3870-4-DBE-9-F0-C-6679-A4-AE12

 

 

So as a non-naval person (but I am fascinated by it - I’ve just finished the Chase of the Bismarck book by Ludovic Kennedy, and it’s a cracking read, it’s gone right up onto my ‘favourites’ list) I would be grateful for any advice along the way. The major headache seems to be when to start painting. As the decks/ hull/ superstructures are all contrasting colours it would be ideal to paint everything separately and fix everything in place post painting, but equally, it would be far less messy to glue, then paint! Tips here most welcome!

 

 

Many thanks

 

 

Guy

 

 

 ps I’ve also just ordered a set of Pixnor tweezers as recommended by @Ex-FAAWAFU hopefully that should make life a bit easier!

Edited by Gisbod

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Hello Guy,

 

Good choice, love this type of ship. Built one some years ago.

 

Here some details in this book, it can be useful May be.

 

26418273-833-A-49-E7-BC51-26977-B5-BC57-


66-B0-A930-31-F2-458-B-92-BF-806-A636203


7-D250354-4-CC6-477-F-90-E5-6782-B4-BDE2


7-D2881-E2-46-F8-44-C3-AC57-5-F2-F033-BE


 

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Hi Guy

I would say that you've attempted in diving terms - coming off the 10 m board.  Kudos to you!!

The Pontos set looks like a double Diamond Back Mogulled run - Kudos to you!!

Nial has done a build of Heather and produces 3D printed parts on shapeways in 1/72 that are excellent.  Here's the link to his build:

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=23309.0

Good start - the transom looks glorious

My build might help though it's already getting a bit dated with the Pontos offering 

As to https://micromaster.co.nz/ - recent delivery was less than 10/7 from NZ to UKand I can't praise the quality enough.

As to colours - let me think - it's Saturday night, so  a few beers.  Jamie Duff may contribute but my first thoughts are 507C (light) with 507A (dark).  don't think of using anything other than Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats - When you've spent that much on a Pontos set - the outlay for colourcoats paints is a marginal fraction.

Great clean start and I'm really looking forwards to this!!!

Rob

 

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Looking at your pic - immediate thoughts are - from bow to stern

1)  You'll need masks for pennant numbers - Due to the camo paint "crossing" the number

2)  The Gun shield is "Rounded"

3)  Railings go "outside" of the lateral gun shields/breakwaters

4)  There are 4 "lattice work" bridge supports

5)  Rounded radar platform - rails etc

6)  There is Minesweeping kit

7)  Looks like she had "High" Depth charge rails   

8/  She carries 5  x Carley Floats

9)  You'll need to decide whether the port view scheme is contemporaneous with the Stbd side scheme

 

Or ignore all of the above and build to your specs which is perfectly reasonable

Though as you can see - I've spent far too long mulling on these things :nerd::nerd:

Rob

 

 

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Gisbod said:

 ps I’ve also just ordered a set of Pixnor tweezers as recommended by @Ex-FAAWAFU hopefully that should make life a bit easier!

I think you will find that they will make your life somewhat easier, my set arrived today and they look very useful and are very reasonably priced.

 

Someone on the land of internet shopping must be wondering why they have seen a sudden run on Pixnor tweezers :)

Edited by Richard E

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Posted (edited)


 

Thanks everyone! What a great response 😀

 

 


 

12 hours ago, Iceman 29 said:

Hello Guy,

 

Good choice, love this type of ship. Built one some years ago.

 

Here some details in this book, it can be useful May be.

 

26418273-833-A-49-E7-BC51-26977-B5-BC57-


 

 

 


Thanks Iceman, That looks very helpful, I’ll have a look around to see if I can get hold of one of those.

 

 

12 hours ago, robgizlu said:

Hi Guy

I would say that you've attempted in diving terms - coming off the 10 m board.  Kudos to you!!

The Pontos set looks like a double Diamond Back Mogulled run - Kudos to you!!

Nial has done a build of Heather and produces 3D printed parts on shapeways in 1/72 that are excellent.  Here's the link to his build:

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=23309.0

Good start - the transom looks glorious

My build might help though it's already getting a bit dated with the Pontos offering 

As to https://micromaster.co.nz/ - recent delivery was less than 10/7 from NZ to UKand I can't praise the quality enough.

As to colours - let me think - it's Saturday night, so  a few beers.  Jamie Duff may contribute but my first thoughts are 507C (light) with 507A (dark).  don't think of using anything other than Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats - When you've spent that much on a Pontos set - the outlay for colourcoats paints is a marginal fraction.

Great clean start and I'm really looking forwards to this!!!

Rob

 


Thanks Rob! That’s super helpful 🙂

 

10/7? That’s thrown me?!

 

So I see Shapeways does the micro master sets too, does that mean they’re in stock in the UK?

 

The micro master sets look flipping amazing, but they’re super expensive too! Everything is ultimately covered in the very extensive Pontos set, but I can see the fidelity of the Micro Master would be hard to beat. If I got everything possible for the Corvette it would come to several hundred pounds! 
 

 

12 hours ago, robgizlu said:

Looking at your pic - immediate thoughts are - from bow to stern

1)  You'll need masks for pennant numbers - Due to the camo paint "crossing" the number

2)  The Gun shield is "Rounded"

3)  Railings go "outside" of the lateral gun shields/breakwaters

4)  There are 4 "lattice work" bridge supports

5)  Rounded radar platform - rails etc

6)  There is Minesweeping kit

7)  Looks like she had "High" Depth charge rails   

8/  She carries 5  x Carley Floats

9)  You'll need to decide whether the port view scheme is contemporaneous with the Stbd side scheme

 

Or ignore all of the above and build to your specs which is perfectly reasonable

Though as you can see - I've spent far too long mulling on these things :nerd::nerd:

Rob

 

 

 

That’s brilliant too... I will try and make a nod towards those items, but as I said before, I’m not too fussed about absolute accuracy (sacrilege I know!), that said, I will of course do my best! 
 

There are parts of the Pontos set that I may leave aside, the bridge structure for instance is a brass replacement, but I really can’t see it’s necessarily an improvement on the kit parts - so I’d always go with ease of use where possible (sacrilege again!!). Another section I’m umm-ing and ahh-ing about is the 4 pounder gun deck, the moulded, teeny bits (technical naval term 🤪) seem fine to my eye and the replacement brass micro bits are, frankly, a little daunting!

 

11 hours ago, Richard E said:

I think you will find that they will make your life somewhat easier, my set arrived today and they look very useful and are very reasonably priced.

 

Someone on the land of internet shopping must be wondering why they have seen a sudden run on Pixnor tweezers :)


Yes! They must be running out of stock! In my experience, tweezers very quickly degrade with use. I wouldn’t mind spending a decent amount to get a really good quality set, but the Pixnor set will certainly be worth a look.

 

 

11 hours ago, robgizlu said:

 

Rob, you’re excelling yourself! Thank you! 
 

I’ve already pored through your build and it’s going to be my bible!

 

Just finally though, general consensus for painting/ building order? It’s going to be very fiddly whichever way it’s done, for example , if I paint the decks first then fix in place, I’d have to pre paint all the support arms (the deck to hull ones - as you’re probably already aware, my naval terminology might need a little work!) then glue them in place - I can just see that not being ideal, but then the alternative is to try and paint around everything... this is my biggest headache...

Edited by Gisbod

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Hi Gisbod

10/7 = ten days.  (1/52 = 1week, 1/12 = one month etc  it's possible it's just medical notation)

In reality I think they arrived 9 days post ordering

The Shapeways offerings (certainly to date) are expensive and of lower quality than the direct Micromaster items.

As to replacing everything with Brass - I agree with you - I use that which is easy and better but where it's Ok in plastic - I leave it too

As to absolute accuracy - I get it - it can become oppressive.  But be careful - the bug begins to bite :winkgrin:

Shout if there's anything I can help with - only too happy.

Iceman is right about the Ensign book but it's probably quite expensive now.

I'm a firm believer that the cheap and readily available Shipcraft Flower Class Corvettes by Lambert & Brown contains everything you really need.

As to painting what and when - we all struggle with that - though I say again - Colourcoats are really worth exploring

Looking forwards

Regards

Rob

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Thanks Rob, 

 

I may take you up on that. Never seen that notation before, but then I’m not a medical man.

 

Made a start on the funnel, for some reason I was dreading this but it seems to have gone ok. I heated the brass first to anneal it, then it quite  nicely formed it’s way around the plastic part. I may end up using the kit part for the frame that sits over the funnel opening- although it’s overly thick I still think it will look neater than my efforts with the brass.

 

 

99-EC6-FF2-DE18-4-F12-9-ADF-DC31-A315-D1

 


85-F1-BDA7-5730-45-B6-B23-C-687-E1-C5-D5

 

 

Guy

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There are advantages to the lockdown, I’ve got loads of time to spend at the bench!

 

I'm very impressed with the Pontos set, it really is a high quality product, everything fits beautifully. I’m working randomly, flitting about with no master plan!

 

 

5-B41567-E-BD7-E-4584-81-AD-E58530-C6574

 

 

DB3957-FA-C157-4-DAA-AD39-233-D8520-FF84
 

 

I could still add the brass funnel top, I’ll have a think on that.

 

 

Guy

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Posted (edited)

Makes us want to build it this size. 😍

 

Edited by Iceman 29

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4 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

Looks great! If the funnel top doesn't need you to hack about at the kit part it's a no brainer to have a go at it. The kit part does stick out a bit there amongst the rest of your work.


 

Thanks Jamie, I have done a fairly simplified version of the top frame, better than the kit anyway. A good afternoon’s work has got this section finished. And thoroughly enjoyable too.

 

 

E8-E6-BAD9-84-BD-40-B7-B5-BF-9-A1-CBF266

 

 

421372-F4-1-BA5-4-F20-B7-E1-FEB7283-D5-F
 

 

BC502-C52-4-A27-4-C1-B-81-C3-DEF98-EE0-F
 

 

BCD14192-A2-D4-40-C6-8-D31-E56-B9-F71504
 

 

 

Guy

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Very neat photoetch work Guy, should the ends of the exhaust pipe attached to the side of the funnel be hollowed out to add more gilding to the lily  ?

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1 minute ago, Richard E said:

Very neat photoetch work Guy, should the ends of the exhaust pipe attached to the side of the funnel be hollowed out to add more gilding to the lily  ?


Thanks Richard. 
 

Yes, good point. I had thought of this but I didn’t know if it was hollowed out or meant to be like that?

 

 

Guy

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I agree very neat work indeed.

It might be difficult to drill the stove pipe now it's fixed.  An tenative is to paint the tips black at completion.

It's looking tremendous :D

Rob

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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, robgizlu said:

 

It might be difficult to drill the stove pipe now it's fixed.  An tenative is to paint the tips black at completion.

It's looking tremendous :D

Rob


Good idea Rob, 

 

I think it’s too risky to try and detach it now, I can see the whole thing exploding!

 

Another busy day at the bench. I’m picking bits at random and building that section - no order whatsoever! Unlike you ship / PE experts I’m finding my way a little as I go along. I’ve found that the PE joins need a baton of some kind to give it a nice join and a bit of stability:

 

 

148-B96-E7-C0-AD-4854-AF19-F2168-F7-B52-

 

 


That gives a clean edge:

 

 

313-E78-F5-BD98-415-A-95-D0-55-D424-B777

 

 

 

I’m basically doing the bridge area and this is probably the most complicated bit - it’s a blend of kit and Pontos which further complicates it as I’ve got instruction sheets all over the place! The bridge has a wooden deck with loads of PE to add on top of it so I’ve basically got to do all the mini subsections and paint then add the wood deck then I can put it all together.
 

Some nice detail on the bridge...

 

 

47-CC04-D9-1-FEC-4-F92-B974-ABCB7334019-

 


I’ve also built the radar housing which was super fiddly.. certainly tested my patience! I just got the railings on which took an age then promptly managed to flick them off with my knife! 

 

 

 

46-CDCC36-0-BD4-433-F-A4-F0-48-D75592-B4


 

 

But basically, she’s coming along ok. I am a bit perplexed why the 3 bridge supports (kit parts) don’t align with the holes on the deck? I must have done something wrong but I can’t see what? 
 

 

F943758-E-C5-F1-438-B-9212-8237350-F9-F0

 


Guy
 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Gisbod

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Don't think you have Guy.

I can't recall but I suspect it's the kit.

The radar tower looks superb.

When you come to fit the Lattice girder supports for the bridge, it can be confusing because they don't sit on the exact vertical, but splay outwards (abduct) slightly

Rob

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18 hours ago, robgizlu said:

 

When you come to fit the Lattice girder supports for the bridge, it can be confusing because they don't sit on the exact vertical, but splay outwards (abduct) slightly

Rob


Ah thanks Rob, I didn’t know that.

 

Today I’ve tackled the gun platform; bit of a halfway house between the Pontos and the kit. I could quite face the 28 microscopic PE multi part things (no idea what they are?) that surround the gun, the moulded Revell effort was sufficient for my eye! 
 

I have to say, the Pontos set really is exceptional. I don’t think the 3D printed options would make a significant enough improvement for the not inconsiderable cost. Obviously, they would much more convenient, but Pontos really does give you everything you need.

 

The gun itself has an option for a resin barrel cover/sheath (?) which I’ve used here. The railings are to be rigged (if I can find the holes!). Again, Pontos supply very fine line for this.

 

Quick question on the decks. The Semtex walkways (not explosive I presume!) are what exactly? 
 

Thanks for looking in...

 

 

Guy

 

ps the front facing rail/ guard from the kit does look overly thick in close up, but it looks ok not zoomed in. The PE option required a big accurate curve applied to the thinnest part which I couldn’t see happening with my limited skill set! I may re-visit that.

 

 

7-A772-A6-F-9-E46-47-F1-9-CF4-1725-D0-B4

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Guy - I believe that Semtex was a rubberized non slip coating that was laid onto warship travel ways.

It's predescessor was Corticene - a linoleum based product that was often stuck down like carpet.  You'll see it depicted brilliantly in @Michael M 's Danton.  Corticene apparently lost favour as it burnt rather too well.

Semtex was apparently available in green and greys and was actually made by several companies.  You'll see it on my HMS Crocus, in a slightly lurid green.

Whilst corvettes were deemed safe boats with the boast that no crew member was ever lost overboard (outside of enemy action) throughout the war, they had a fearsome reputation for rolling - coining the phrase "they'd roll on wet grass".  Thus the Semtex, though it was used extensively throughout larger vessels too.

 

I wouldn't have replaced that 4" gun forward bar -  I couldn't bend to that sort of complex shape 

Gun looks good though by and large the "square" shield configuration was a very early (or Canadian) configuration.  Most mid to late Brit corvettes had the shield rounded.

Nice job on rounding the gun platform etch 

Rob

 

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Rob's almost nailed that. Semtex was one of at least three proprietary branded names from at least three civilian companies making similar stuff. The other two products were Supertex and Aranbee, but people tend to call them all Semtex in the same way vacuum cleaners are often called "Hoovers".

 

It was a latex that was trowled on wet and dried to a rubbery consistency. For exterior decks it would be mixed with a coarse aggregate to form a non-slip surface. It was highly abrasive and had a reputation for chewing through sailors' boot soles quickly.

 

The original three products were green, brown and grey but I don't know which product corresponded to which colour, nor do I know of any way to be sure which product (or colour) was applied to any given vessel unless there happens to be a high quality colour photograph of the stuff!

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Ah thank you, I’d never heard of it, but picked it up in @robgizlu s thread.

 

So it sounds like it could be virtually any colour!

 

As for the 4 pounder, neither the kit nor the Pontos set have an option for a rounded shield...

 

Thanks for all the interesting info.

 

Guy

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The grey was described in a first hand account as being "the colour of dry asphalt". In addition, we think we have a photograph showing the green in colour. The intensity of brown is unknown but I'd venture that it's not an intense brown as an educated guess.

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8 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

...found it. This is the photo we think may be of Semtex.

 

0cfbfa64-fc16-4ad5-97dd-ca95a6d31144.jpg



That’s a great picture! Thanks Jamie. Do you know if it’s a post coloured photo or an original? Will definitely go with that.

 

 

Here’s where I’m at - I’ve decided to prime as I go along - just a Halfords rattle can which is super easy to use and produces a fine finish. As much as anything, it ties the PE together and hopefully, makes it a bit more secure.

 

 

 

CC4-EA6-D7-A96-A-485-A-883-D-C3-CFAC4372

 

 

 

Here’s the part count of the 2 pounder. Took me the best part of the morning to get this together!

 


1-CE50626-56-D6-4-C1-E-85-B5-3-B5-FD6-FC
 

 

 

But turned out nicely! 
 

 

C4-AB69-FE-EC28-47-B9-AACD-31-A71001333-
 

 

 

 

I’ve also done the 20mm Oerlikon and these are real gems. Much easier to construct than the 2 pounder and didn’t take long at all. I can’t see how they could improve on these. I’d be interested to see a 3D printed one as a comparison?

 

 

471-C3-FD0-D21-D-47-BA-845-C-6197-E87503
 

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

Guy

 

 

 

 

 

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