Decal Dilemma

[Jimko46]

I’m an elderly and enthusiastic but inexperienced new modeler.  As I learn about modeling techniques, I realized that I do have a problem with a pre-built Tamiya Beaufighter that I purchased a couple of years ago.  The model is detailed quite nicely, for my taste, with panel lines, slight weathering, etc.

But, the decals, I can now see, are not well applied and by that I mean that the placement is fine but they do not flow into panel lines or show any other detail under them and basically ‘sit on top’.

So, I’m looking for some help and advice.

 

Is there a way to apply any decal solution over these decals that will make them form to the model detail that is under them?

 

Or, is the only option to remove them and reapply new decals using one of the products that allows the decals to conform properly to the surface details?

I was told that the paints on the model are acrylics.

 

Thanks in advance for any help!

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Hello Jimko...  from Chicago. Ive always used a product called microset and microsol. They set gets the decal to set strong. And the sol actually melts it into the paint. You can also run a fine blade along panel lines and then apply sol to help it sink into grooves and other detail.  
 

https://modelmerchants.com/shop/microscale-micro-sol-micro-set-decal-setting-solution-set-mi-1-mi-2/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInb_bw8Ov6AIVDGyGCh2_uwHbEAQYAiABEgKJEfD_BwE

 

No connection to the seller I'm just using it for the photo’s. There are other brands so explore and see what is available locally. 
 

Dennis

Edited March 23, 2020 by Corsairfoxfouruncle

[stevehnz]

Hi @Jimko46, an alternative that works really well in this situation is this one.

Steve.

[Jimko46]

Thanks to both of you, Dennis and Steve, for your suggestions and for the links.  I definitely need guidance!

 

Of course, my biggest issue here is in trying to reset decals that have been in place for some time now. I have done extensive searching online to see if anyone has dealt with a similar issue but no luck with that.

I've decided that before I 'make a bad thing worse' on the existing model, I will place some spare decals on spare parts, let them dry for at least a week and then experiment with the options that you propose.  I have to make sure that the test decals are sitting on top much like the ones on the plane so that I can see if one of your suggested solutions will make them set better when it is applied only to the in-place decal surface.

I will report any success or lack of it.

 

The Klear (Future in my case) is a fascinating decaling solution to me.  (I use a Future/ModelMaster flat mixture now to make a low gloss airbrushed finish for a bit of sheen on plane surfaces.}

 

Going forward with any new decal projects your information will also be very useful to me.

 

Jim

[Markh-75]

Hi; and welcome to the bestest forum on modelling! I find that the Humbrol Decalcote works very nicely for me, but that's the thing with modelling, there are a few different treatments favoured by individuals. If the paint finish on the model is matt then many decals can find adhesion to matt a bit difficult and they will go silver around the edges if not under the whole decal, i always paint on satin lacquer/varnish before i fit the decals unless the paint is a satin or gloss finish. This creates good suction and helps the decal go on nice and flat.  Micro Industries make the Micro-set and Micro-sol and its where i get my varnish from now; some of my models are a silver finish and the Humbrol mattcote and satincote can soften silver paint; therefore the Micro-matt, satin and gloss are my choice now for lacquering/varnishing over the decals once in place and dry because they dont affect the silver finish.

 

Humbrol used to do decal-set and decal-fix but now its just one bottle called decalcote and i find it okay for my applications. I tip a little onto an old sideplate to put the decals onto after dipping them in water, i use a soft brush to paint the stuff on the model and once set in place and the water squeezed out of each decal i give each one a thin coat all around the edges. I recently gave the side plate a clean and found the decal cote was hard to come off; i had to use a scourer to get it off the plate! It sets quite hard! I had been a tad doubtful of it before that!

 

 

[Shin]

You've gotten good advice so far, but I'm concerned about the pre-built aspect of your model. If it had a clear coat applied over the model after decals, the proposed decal solutions may not affect anything at all (it would sit on top of the clear coat and not penetrate to the decal). 

 

Running a knife through the panel lines as Dennis suggested may or may not help in this case.

[Markh-75]

I'd say, try it on one of them and see; if it doesnt work out; you can get replacement/alternative decals online, there are hundreds of them on sale.

[Jimko46]

Thanks for the welcome and a big thanks for all the replies and suggestions!

 

I will carry on with some decal tests both on my test samples that I just made up as well as on one or two of the model's decals.

If it comes to removing the old decals for replacement, I will likely be back with 'my hat in hand' looking for more help with the removal stage which, quite frankly, worries me!

 

I did find a good discourse on YouTube by someone who did extensive testing with several different decal solutions and he had some good results with Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, so I may see if it will be of any use.  At least I can see what it does to my test decals.  I can overcoat the test decals first to see what kind of results I get.

 

Cheers!

 

Jim

[Markh-75]

You’re welcome, we here, are always happy to help !😊

[Markh-75]

Had a 'decal dilemma' myself earlier!😯 Near tragic.😱 I was applying the decals on the right side of the P-47D Bubbletop and thought the serial could be further back toward the star and bars, i wet it and gave it a minute before trying to move it and it curled itself under!😲 I managed to get it off and back into water and realised that to get the fold-under corrected i'd have to turn it over, so i did; i rescued some bits of wet backing paper and managed to get it to lift onto one of them; only thing now was it was inside out (if ya know wot i mean), i used another backing after wetting it thoroughly and finally managed to get it to transfer to the other paper! All the time to Humbrol Decalcote is getting sticky so i had to keep wetting it down; finally i got the thing back on and carefully jostled it into place for the final time!😳 It was slightly low but i managed to move it up and then said; I aint gonna mess with it no more now! I'm pleased with myself for getting it sorted and back on the kit; i give myself 15/10 for having the patience, and gave myself a good pat on the back.😇

Since then i've been down and lacquered over them. Just the left side to do, tomorrow and it's done. 😀

[Jimko46]

Sounds like some delicate decal manipulating.  Would be one of my worst nightmares with decals!  Glad you got it sorted!

 

Still letting my test decals sit for a few days before experimenting with them.  I'm starting to feel like the 'mad scientist'...  🧐

[Markh-75]

Thank you, I’m pleased myself but it’s not easy when your hands are big and clumsy and at times, shaky, like mine. 
one thing I DO know is that a crumpled decal will unravel itself in water but it can be awkward if it’s a large and/or long decal, long narrow decals can be very tricky.