De Turenne Nieuport 11 from the kit Eduard 1/48

[Totally Mad Olivier]

I wouldn't be a very good pie maker (at least to unmold the cakes...):

 

 

I am not sure I am in the best position to give hints on this technic 😉...

but I will do though, prying for my third trial to be the good:

 

 

 

I am surprised (did I understand well?) when Louis, in his thread, says he applies 7 or 8 passes. Personally, it is rather about 50 passes at least, and it is the only way to get about 0,15 to 0,2 mm height of paint in the holes (the desired height for rivets) when you spray a paint with an airbrush. For this third trial, I sprayed 2 times (3 h apart from each other) about 30 passes each... 

And still 4 hours later:

 

 

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Now that the outside rivets problem has been solved, I may go on with the cockpit. 

The problem with PE parts, as all modelers know, is that all parts are flat, even when they shouldn't. In this example, I give a shape to this handle by adding a small drop of liquid cyano:

 

 

 

N.B: looking at this photo, I have just applied a coat of transparent orange to the handle, what enhance it (satin finish, warmer color).

[Totally Mad Olivier]

I don't remember where I saw this booklet mentioned (in Britmodeller, probably)

 

 

I have decided to send an e-mail to Marc Chassard to ask him questions, as he is a Nieuport specialist.

I wanted especially have his point of view about the Blue color. 

He kindly answered, confirming what Roger Holden said (post #9) that "the blue, even dark, appeared very light with the orthochromatic films", and that "the french grey/blue, often represented, was wrong". And he joined the autochrome below showing the right blue. 

"Ci-joint l'autochrome (procédé couleurs des frères Lumière, très fidèle quant au rendu des couleurs - je suis lyonnais et j'ai fait de nombreuses recherches sur ce procédé de photo couleurs) représentant le type 11 de Jean Chaput, à l'époque de la bataille de Verdun (Avril 1916)".

I translate: "below, you will find the autochrome (Lumière brothers color method, very faithful regarding the color rendering, I made many researches on this color photos process) representing the Jean Chaput Nieuport 11 at the time of the Verdun battle (April 1916)":

 

 

Well, I must say that I am a bit surprised, because this photo, supposed to show a dark blue, suggests a little bit lighter blue compared with the one I intended to use (very close, though)

 

 

But it is indeed much more blue and darker than the Musée de l'Air blue, light grey/blue:

 

 

Conclusion: I will lighten just a little bit the blue I had prepared, and so this blue will be a little bit lighter than the one of my first build, aware though that it won't pretend to be necessary totally faithful, as all these considerations are done using photos, that can't pretend to render faithfully the truth.

 

Atb, Olivier

 

[Shorty84]

Hi Olivier,

 

fantastic attention to detail. Although WW1 is not my modelling genre your build is really compelling and I'm enjoying every update.

 

Cheers

Markus

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Thanks a lot Markus, very pleased to read your kind message, very encouraging!

 

All the best, Olivier

[Totally Mad Olivier]

 

 

the arms were too short, it is necessary to extend them (this is a photo I had taken for my first build but I had to do the same for the 2nd one):

 

 

 

 

The MMFA acts like a temporary cement, bringing a lot of safety by allowing corrections if necessary:

 

 

 

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

After last corrections and improvements (there would still be more to do...), I closed the fuselage with liquid cyano by capillarity with the tip of a triangular blade:

 

 

 

 

 

... but they assume!

 

Atb, Olivier

[RichieW]

You seem to have enjoyed adding all the interior details. I've certainly enjoyed seeing you add them so time and energy well spent!

 

There is a Copperstate Models Nieuport 17 in 1/32 that can be built so all the details can be seen. Would love to see you build.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

9 minutes ago, RichieW said:

You seem to have enjoyed adding all the interior details

I confirm, Richie, I confirm! 😉

Why not, one day, the Nieuport 17 at 1/32... These WWI aircrafts are very beautiful, definitely!

[Biggu]

The attention to the finest of details is stammeringly good.....................  I can't believe this is 1/48 scale................... just pure awesome...

Jeff

[Louis]

Wouahhh !!!

 

Here is a job as I like them !!!
Details, good ideas.
All this is very beautiful.

 

You can try this for big rivets : By spraying several layers of surfacer and using a stencil pierced with holes.
You can also make them on a piece of decals and put the decal afterwards.

 

In the middle of the page:

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234984323-figurine-finished-148-voisin-10ca2-modified-hi-tech-kit/page/2/

 

Regards.
 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

1 hour ago, Biggu said:

I can't believe this is 1/48 scale

Exactly what I fell when I saw the Juan Manuel Villalba Nieuport 11 in the "Guide" mentioned above (despite that it is in french, I recommend it strongly to aircraft modelers), without forgetting all the other amazing builds to which the master dedicated an article in this book as in his other publications. I was then thinking: this guy is a magician!! I would dream to be able to do so well.

Little by little, I learnt, doing less and less errors (I still do a lot), and I finally became an amateur magician... In addition to many techniques and hand turns, Juan learnt me in to focus on every detail, every part, as if it was itself a whole build. 

Thanks a lot Jeff, for these kind words!

 

All the best, Olivier

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

8 minutes ago, Louis said:

You can try this for big rivets : By spraying several layers of surfacer and using a stencil pierced with holes.
You can also make them on a piece of decals and put the decal afterwards.

 

In the middle of the page:

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234984323-figurine-finished-148-voisin-10ca2-modified-hi-tech-kit/page/2/

 

Hi Louis!

I invite you to read the thread with more care, you will notice that, following the excellent suggestion of Ian (limeypilot), I saw your great tuto for the rivets and tried (with less talent than you) to do the same (post# 76, especially).

Thank you for your kind comments, that encourages me to go on!

 

Atb, Olivier 

[Biggu]

Magician???  I got news for you buddy, YOU are a magician as well, absolutely amazing CLEAN work, I have the 1/48 scale Spad, I'd like to try, but I could NEVER come close to this , and am a little intimidated by the rigging and attachment points of which there is none, but I will watch you and maybe try to gather some well needed knowledge...............

Jeff

Edited April 4, 2020 by Biggu

[Totally Mad Olivier]

A big thank to you, Jeff, for this so kind comment and for following this thread from the beginning!

I don't pretend to be a specialist for the rigging job, but I'll try to do my best, and be sure I will share my work with you. I can't understand that some modelers don't want to share their building secrets, we all have so much to learn from other ones. This is why I like a lot Britmodeller... 

 

Atb, Olivier

[Louis]

1 hour ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

Hi Louis!

I invite you to read the thread with more care, you will notice that, following the excellent suggestion of Ian (limeypilot), I saw your great tuto for the rivets and tried (with less talent than you) to do the same (post# 76, especially).

Thank you for your kind comments, that encourages me to go on!

 

Atb, Olivier 

Oops!
Sorry, I did not see. It will take me to read better.

 

Sorry that didn't work.

Regards.

Edited April 4, 2020 by Louis

[Totally Mad Olivier]

21 hours ago, Louis said:

Sorry that didn't work.

I wouldn't say it didn't work, Louis. It is just that, after 2 unsuccessful trials, the third, using the transparent plastic card, was nearly OK. But, as my coat of paint was not thick enough (despite about 60 passes), I had to complete with unthinned Vallejo paint (Tan Yellow 912 that matches very well with the Eduard polystyren of the Profipack version) and the tip of my paintbrush. But the result, if not perfect, seems to me acceptable:

 

 

If we compare these rivets with the Eduard ones on the panel a bit forward, they should be much more visible once painted. I even wonder if I shouldn't decrease a bit some of them, for a smoother finish...

 

Well, the 2 half fuselage now glued, I had to remove the excess of cyano, scratching it with a triangular blade, and then to get a totally invisible joint. For the latter job, I used again the Tamiya sponges, beginning with 180 grit, what allows to earn time. But it was also necessary, from now, to bring a good protection to my cockpit. 

For my first build, I followed JMV, who brings pieces of masking tape until the cockpit is covered, and optionally (but it is recommended considering the many steps to come) reinforces the mask with white glue:

 

 

I suggest here a new method, using the same putty soft silicon polymerised by addition I used for my anti-reversal stands (see above post# 11 and 53). You can ask your dentist to provide you a bit of this product, if you are not dental surgeon yourself. Stored in 2 separate small boxes, they may be helpful in some modeling situations. Take care, it is important to use the "addition" and not "condensation" one (the most expensive, pity) because only the "addition" will keep a perfect stability in time (my stands are at least 5 years old!):

 

The putty silicon for dental impressions is very easy to cut with the triangular blade. A lot of care must though be taken to avoid marks on the fuselage :

 

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

 

 

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

 

 

Once you get used, you even don’t need to read the grit value, you take the right sponge just looking at the color on the back.

 

 

I promise I have no personal interest in the Tamiya brand 😉

 

 

A low-tack masking tape will be used to protect this painted area.

 

Atb, Olivier

[Totally Mad Olivier]

The photo ever posted (post# 28) has been lightened, so that we may see more details:

 

 

 

[Brandy]

Lovely work Olivier, she's coming on very nicely. You have some interesting techniques too, that I may borrow!

 

Ian

[RichieW]

Such care and precision! I'm inspired to be less clumsy, enjoying your updates. There seems to be a new technique to me in every one.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

 

After weathering (my Nieuport 11 is in service):

 

N.B: bughunter had made the 2 alu panels in one piece, a very beautiful job, I was a bit too lazy and found the compromise below... Notice that this alu panel was missing on my first build.

 

Atb, Olivier

 

Edit a bit later: on second thought, I will not add the screws tomorrow (as I said in the label of the first pic) but later. Indeed, as the photo below shows, the screws are very close from the edges of this panel, and masking will be easier without them:

[Totally Mad Olivier]

 

Once this job done, I use (sparingly) the Tamiya Liquid thin cement to make disappear the tiny particles of sanded polystyren. Then comes the base coat paint step:

 

 

[Biggu]

😍