Benjamin Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 (edited) Has anyone got experience of airbrushing mrp lacquers. Just got some and although they get good reviews I'm struggling a bit. I have primed a test piece with mrp fine surface primer, which went on well. Then sprayed medium sea grey but wasnt too impressed. I know it needs light coats but even after a few coats the color has barely changes. Its hitting the surface wet but it looks like it's almost too thin. Any tips, psi distance etc spraying with h&s evolution either 0.2 or 0.4 nozzle. Thanks Edited March 9, 2020 by Benjamin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinky coffeeboat Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 (edited) Hi, After reading and seeing all the rave reviews of this paint, I too went out and bought some. My feelings are the same as yours, nice smooth finish, quick drying but oh good grief - "How many coats??!!" I mainly spray white and this is normally a paint that needs dozens of layers before a decent solid colour emerges. But, yesterday I went back to Mr Color (Gunze Sangyo, Creos from Japan in case of confusion) and sprayed two - yes 2 - coats of white (GX 1 Cool white) and got a very solid gloss white finish. With MRP I had to spray at least 10 for the same results. Whenever "postimage" has finished its maintenance and I can upload and post images I'll show what i'm talking about. However, it'll be Mr Color or Halfords appliance white from now on - MRP? No thanks. Mr Color - 2 coats MRP - 9+ coats... Jeff Edited March 9, 2020 by pinky coffeeboat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Posted March 9, 2020 Author Share Posted March 9, 2020 I think too many coats it's the problem on my part as I dont think I have the patience. After a few coats i put on a heavier coat but mrp doesnt like heavy. I do like mr color paint but I'm building the airfix 1/24 hellcat and the interior color is baffling me. I've got mr color 27 interior green but it looks too yellow. Compared to the equivalent mr hobby aqueos h58 the colors are completely different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 I use a lot of Mr Color (Gunze) and Mr Paint (from Slovenia) and love them both. To me the MRP feels just like a pre-thinned Mr C. To be fair I always struggled with getting any white paints to cover so have taken to using a white primer if I need a large area covered and then find a few light coats of white paint works fine. I haven't had any problems that I can think of with any of MRP's other colours though so I wonder if you have a bad bottle? Straight from the bottle I usually get good coverage in one sitting. I have never had the need to use the MRP Thinners I bought with my very first batch of paints when they were first released as I find they are great as is even for Luftwaffe mottling in 1/72. Duncan B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwh548 Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 I've used MRP White and got an opaque finish fairly easy. Light, misty coats, barely wet on the surface. I can't remember how many coats I did, but it was in a single session. NEVER go too wet with these because even with a primer it could seriously craze styrene. Also, by going wet the pigment is going to pool up and you'll get a patchy model. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fewr9fkr9595 Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 Yeah never had any problem with mrp coverage. Sprayed a white belly over a black base stylee no dramas. Make sure you shake them well and keep checking bottom of bottle that all pigment is mixed in if you’ve got ‘weak’ paint? Tony 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinky coffeeboat Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 50 minutes ago, bmwh548 said: I've used MRP White and got an opaque finish fairly easy. Light, misty coats, barely wet on the surface. I can't remember how many coats I did, but it was in a single session. NEVER go too wet with these because even with a primer it could seriously craze styrene. Also, by going wet the pigment is going to pool up and you'll get a patchy model. Maybe that's my problem- impatience!! It also effects non-lacquer paints too. I sprayed it over Mr Surfacer primer that has some of the lower surface Xtracolor grey over spray on it and it crazed the Xtracolor immediately, so be careful with over spray and applying over other types of paint. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwh548 Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 You should avoid lacquers over enamels. They really don't like each other. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Quack Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 I've been using MRP black on 1/32 Hawk. Initially it appeared a bit rough but it has improved on subsequent coats by spraying at lower pressure - about 10 - 12 psi. Hope that helps. Q 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 A technique that helps is to go very light. If you have needle stop limiter use it, and alternate with paint a layer then paint off and just air to dry then paint on again a few seconds later. And build up that way Works for me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 Also, turn your pressure down low maybe 10-15 psi. As low as it will still spray with really. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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