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Clear and matt coat for Tamiya Acrylics


Oberleutnant

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Hi folks,

 

I have just started airbrushing Tamiya acrylics which I find are really nice - especially for a beginner.

 

However, I've found my normal Humbrol matt and clear coat rattle cans do not go with Tamiya acrylics - I'm guessing because Tamiya is not a true water based acrylic like Humbrol or Vallejo.

 

I end up with a dull and messy finish.

 

I've tried researching into Tamiya's clear and matt coat and people have been telling me conflicting messages such as what they offer is an admixture for paint and not a true clear or matt coat.

 

Can somebody please tell me what matt and clear coat will work on Tamiya acrylics please and whether they need thinning for example to use with an airbrush?

 

I'm getting rather desperate!

 

 

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53 minutes ago, bmwh548 said:

I just use Mr. Color GX 112 for gloss (or 100 if you can't find the 112) and 113 for matt. They'll need some serious thinning for airbrush use (Mr. Leveling Thinner works great).

Thank you.

 

Do you not use an airbrush with these products then?

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I just use Tamiya’s own clears X-35 (Semi Gloss) or XF-86 (Flat) mixed with their own Acrylic thinner. Seems to work for me and I quite like the smooth consistent finish if gives after applying two or three thin coats. I tend to use more thinner than clear and spray towards the late evening when humidity is at it’s lowest. 
 

Cheers.. Dave 

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3 hours ago, Oberleutnant said:

I end up with a dull and messy finish

I use Humbrol matt cote quite a lot airbrushed (thinned at least 50/50 with white spirit) and have never had any problem with Tamiya/Mr Hobby/Xtracolor/Colorcoats acrylics or enamels. But I have never used rattlecans. I wonder if the spray from the rattlecans is too heavy/wet?

 

More often now I use Future/Klear as I can better control the final finish by adding varying amounts of Tamiya matt base (X21).

 

Colin

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2 hours ago, Oberleutnant said:

Thank you.

 

Do you not use an airbrush with these products then?

I use them exclusively in the airbrush. Since they're lacquer, don't think you could hand paint them and get good results. I mix them until they're almost watery. Thin coats, build it up (especially on the flat so the flattening agent doesn't pool up in crevices).

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I've been using Winsor & Newton Galeria varnishes for a while now, both gloss and matt (which can be mixed for satin). They spray straight from the bottle and work perfectly well with Tamiya paints.

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Tamiya X22 is gloss clear, and XF86 is matt. Just thin and spray as per normal.

 

I prefer Windsor and Newton Galeria Matt varnish now, thinned 50/50 with IPA, but Tamiya clears are just as straight forward as using any of their other paint.

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  • 1 year later...
On 28/02/2020 at 06:07, CharlieNZ said:

I prefer Windsor and Newton Galeria Matt varnish now, thinned 50/50 with IPA, but Tamiya clears are just as straight forward as using any of their other paint.

I read many people thin this with water, though many also use IPA

I'm confused as to which to try first

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5 hours ago, CharlieNZ said:

IPA tends to make it more matt, water slightly less so. Just try both and see what you prefer.

Speed has influence. The faster it dries, the more it will get matt. Water dries slower. Most oil paints are simply glossy. And they dry almost as long as the total modelling process.
Matt paint simply need a brush of the finger to get semi gloss. I used to do this all the time on helmets.
That's why (certainly the old days) matt paint hardly lasted on all places of a tank. Rubbing and scuffing (handles, edges, ...) renders many parts at least semi gloss. Natural polishing.

Edited by Steben
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