LaurieS Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 20 minutes ago, pockets said: Had another disaster this time with paint , the humbrol acrlic from a can reacted and crazed so had to put the body in a plastic bag with isopryl and after much faffing and sanding have reapplied some primer and top coat which seems ok apart from one drip which ill rub down after it cures Thinking about masking it to add a red band on the body but worried about paint peeling when removing it , any tips on masking tape would be appreciated , ive got some tamiya stuff so good quality. Ialso added a band of plasticard to the top of the rear engine cover and some mr surfacer to the sides as it seem to be a little small and had excessive panel gaps at top and sides so it now looks better . Given up with Tamiya paper tape for masking. Paint tends to soften the tape edge & attach to adhesive causing possible mayhem. Changed to Tamiya Plastic Masking Tape & Car lining tape. https://www.everythingairbrush.com/product/3m-fine-line-masking-tape-6mm-33m/ https://www.everythingairbrush.com/product/finespray-fine-line-green-tape-6mm-x-55m/ Blue one great going around corners. Green best for straight runs. On any of these tapes cut a new edge with a sharp Morton blade. Both have good clean release qualities All these tapes are cut from a long roll & you do not get a nice edge (applies to all tapes) with squashing of the adhesive at the edge. Bits attach them selves to slightly squashed out adhesive. If you buy get the 6mm you do not need any other. Just cut the edge to the width required. Cut you won & you get a pristine line. The plastic type I have had very few problems with. Paper tapes so many. Laurie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 12, 2020 Author Share Posted March 12, 2020 (edited) thanks for tip , i was wondering how to remove tape without affecting the paint underneath . Edited March 12, 2020 by pockets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaurieS Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 9 minutes ago, pockets said: thanks for tip , i was wondering how to remove tape without remving the paint unerneath , weather to wet the tape with water or something else? I remove the tape as soon as I can less likely to tear away as it is sill a little soft. I remove as slow as possible pulling the tape back on itself ie not at 90 degrees. The secret to all of this is the original preparation. I wet & dry (using water)the plastic with a 1200 guage wet dry paper. Wash or use IPA to get shot of dirst sanding material & grease from fingers etc. This all ensures that the primer gets a great grip. What primer do you sues ? Laurie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 12, 2020 Author Share Posted March 12, 2020 (edited) Edited March 12, 2020 by pockets 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 12, 2020 Author Share Posted March 12, 2020 (edited) USED 800 wetndry with simonez plastic primer then 3000 and 5000 before topcoat acrylic spray , and not to confident about it's adhesion ,may not risk the inclusion of a red band and just go with either just the white or hand paint some other colour Edited March 12, 2020 by pockets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaurieS Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 (edited) 10 minutes ago, pockets said: USED 800 wetndry with simonez plastic primer then 3000 and 5000 before topcoat acrylic spray , and not to confident about it's adhesion ,may not risk the inclusion of a red band and just go with either just the white or hand paint some other colour Apologies should have read previous stuff in which I have repeated all you said tut. I used to use Valleho primer which is pretty awful. Now use Stynylerez which is the best I have found for acrylics. Dries fast. An hour & you can wet & dry. Wet & dries to a feather edge. Very smooth. Very forgiving. Does not clog detail. Mainly use Tamiy XF range on top Since I have been using it very rare indeed to strip paint with any masking. Disadvantage get to the airbrush & strip after use to clean it is a devil but the results are worth the bother. Pity about the redband. But do not let me tempt you as if it goes wrong you will hate me 😬 Laurie Edited March 12, 2020 by LaurieS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 12, 2020 Author Share Posted March 12, 2020 (edited) That's cool chap , have been doing some research into the simonez rattle can primer and it does appear to have a tendency to lift , it does go on super smooth though so may be good for certain applications , am now thinking about using pva as a mask somehow its just getting the straight line is the problem , here' a few shots of possible schemes. Edited March 12, 2020 by pockets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 I'll second using Tamiya plastic tape for the edge, although I tend to use the white 2mm stuff. If spraying, I'll then use the paper tape inside that, and cover large areas inside that with baking foil (making sure all gaps round are taped up). For primer, I use Halfords car primer, never had any problems (fingers crossed) to date. I do wonder whether the crazing is caused by you polishing the colour coat with 5000grit - is it too smooth for the top coat to get a grip? Personally I tend to go with 1000grit for primer and 1500grit for colour coats (not metallics!) before the top coat, although I'm tempted to try 2000 grit next time to see if I get a bit less orange peel in the clear. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 12, 2020 Author Share Posted March 12, 2020 (edited) Nah I used acrylic over enamel , thought the humbrol spray can white gloss i purchased was enamel, turned out it was acrylic. But thanks for all the tips though chaps, will heed advice. Edited March 12, 2020 by pockets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 One thing to bear in mind is that Humbrol has both an enamel range and an acrylic range in spray cans, and the two don't mix.... I tend to stick to Tamiya Fine Surface Primer under Tamiya rattle can paint. I have used Stynylrez, but only under Zero Paints basecoats. Basically, IMHO life's too short to need to sand the bodyshell, primer, paint or clearcoat through multiple passes with ever-finer grits, and worse yet having to do it to EVERY layer, so my preferred paint options are ones where I never have to sand the whole car. A new and very useful product from Tamiya is their TS-101 sealer primer, which is intended to go over brightly coloured plastic with a tendency to bleed through paint or clearcoat layers, like the notorious red... It's a very pure white which out of the can gives a nice semi-gloss finish. It's a good base for liveries that use decals over white just as it is, and will take clearcoat straight on top over decals... best, M. [edit: you got there before me on the Humbrol issue...] 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 12, 2020 Author Share Posted March 12, 2020 It's just the price and size of the cans that put me off, but may well give them a go if it saves on labour and paint compatability issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 If you've seen this, apologies, but it saves typing it out again! best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 The only way to improve your skills is practice. If you fancy applying red stripes to your build then go for it. As long as the paint you are masking on top of has dried properly you shouldn't have a problem. Once your finished painting the stripes remove the tape asap, practice builds confidence once you get it right and have a proven method your set for future builds. Making mistakes is part of the learning curve but avoiding certain colour schemes for fear of failure is definitely not the answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 It's just that its gone wrong once already and took a lot to get it back to a topcoat, and from what Iv'e read the simonez primer can be troublsome with masking tape . But i may still give it a go after letting the white properly cure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 I understand where your coming from as ive had similar dilemmas in the past. It's your build at the end of the day and as long as your happy with it that's all that matters. I reckon it will look cool with or without the stripes anyway. Good luck which ever way you choose 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 Thanks chap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 On 3/13/2020 at 2:33 PM, pockets said: It's just that its gone wrong once already and took a lot to get it back to a topcoat, and from what Iv'e read the simonez primer can be troublsome with masking tape . But i may still give it a go after letting the white properly cure. Yeesh!!! I've definitely had this kind of stuff happen before. Better safe than sorry. Looking forward to more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 Ive flatted it back and removed a few runs with 2000 wetndry and just waiting for decent weather to give it another coat or 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Made some progress, decided to go with the red stripes to represent the 67 monza 911r. Masked it up ready for primer then the red ,looks good with the blue plastic masking tape nearly left it at that. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Excellent so glad you decided to go for the stripes 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadMax8 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 It does look rather dashing with the blue stripes! Looking forward to seeing what the red stripes will end up like. Keep up the good work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 how long do people recommend before removing masking tape, when using acrylic halfords spray paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 I've removed the tape but am now left with masking tape residue all over the white paint wherever i had had the tamiya tape . WTF, thre blue 3m faired a lot better, surely the tamiya tape shouldnt do that, not impressed , how do I remove it without damaging the paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 If it really is tape residue, try just washing with warm water and washing up liquid, or if that doesn’t work, some lemon juice on a bit of cotton wool pad... If it just texturing of the underlying paint, you’ll need to polish it out... Good luck! best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 It actually looks like its reacted with the humbrol acrylic white and melted it, not good , ive had enuff of this friggin thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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