FUJIMI PORSCHE 911R 69 coupe

[pockets]

Just  started this , removed flash from body parts and thinned out the return on the wing arches with some 280 grit then  went over the entire body and acompanying parts with 800 wetndry

tidying up were  needed .Also  dry fitted some part to get the feel of the process,  it's a nicely detailed kit.

 

 

Edited February 24, 2020 by pockets

[pockets]

 

 

Edited February 23, 2020 by pockets

[KonaDawg]

Needs some 20"rims to fill those huuge wells 😊

[pockets]

The wheels aren't attached so not centred in the arch as yet, also the wheel wells will be  painted a dark colour so shouldnt stand out as much , i may tub and lower it if not happy with the ride height,  i'll see how  it progresses. Iv'e heard they can be challenging kits if anyone has some advice, tips or links to a work in progress of the fujimi 1/24 911 all wellngood. i can already see its gunna need quite a lot of fettling and dry fitting, but with patience hopefully will be a nice build

Edited February 24, 2020 by pockets

[Alan R]

I built a couple of these a few (!!?!!) years back, and don't recall there being that much fettling required. 

Obviously, due to the large part count, there can be fit issues if not assembled accurately, but otherwise no big deal, as far as I can remember.

 

I recently completed the Ferrari 247 Dino, and apart from a bit of an issue with the exhaust pipes (bit!) it went together well.

 

Cheers,

Alan.

[Sabrejet]

I think this must be Fujimi rather than 'Fujima'? Just in case it helps with doing a search for builds. I'm not familiar with this kit, but Fujimi are generally a good bet with few niggles.

[pockets]

Thanks for that Sabrejet

[mustang1989]

Nifty little car. Will be watching this one come together.....

[pockets]

Made some more progress not many pics of process , it has been quite a challenge , it's a  well detailed kit  but many of the nibs are very small to non existant so fitting together is quite tricky. Some of the parts need quite a bit of fettling especially the panel behind the dash which fits quite badly , the rear wheels are rather wide for this particular variation  of the 911 and the shell is a universal one it should be  narrower at the rear but overall im quite happy with the way it looks so far
   

Edited February 27, 2020 by pockets

[gt6mkiii]

Following closely - I've looked at these kits a few times, looking forward to seeing it complete.

[Spiny]

Looking like this is going to turn out really nice, I particularly like the weathering on the floorpan.

 

I hope you don't mind me making a suggestion (equally, I hope this isn't too late), but it would be worth running a bit of sandpaper over those tyres to get rid of those seams - they won't show as much once you have the body on but once you notice them they have a habit of drawing the eye (I know this from experience with my own builds).

[pockets]

 Thanks for the feedback , the wheels are only mounted with pva at the moment so I can set the ride height so can remove and fettle them, but thanks for sugestion Spiny. Have done a bit more on various parts  , the decals were a pain as I had to cut them down  when off the backing to get them to fit within the recesses , I also drilled  and filed the body for the fuel and oil fillers.
 

 

Edited March 13, 2020 by pockets

[pockets]

sanded with 800 wetndry and layed the first few  coats of primer  to see were the body needs  tweaking, stupidly I thought Id'e degrease with enamel thinners and it started to eat into the plastic , rookie mistake i spose  ,what do people use to clean before painting ?   i quickly washed it off  and then re sanded before priming, it doesnt look  too bad , may leave it, as thinking of making it a bit of a ratty patina outlaw as  I'de  like to try some weathering and rust techniques, never done it before, may just get a starter weathering set but open to sugestions .

Edited February 29, 2020 by pockets

[pockets]

Iv'e now just noticed from looking at the photos that one of the front screen pillars has warped and slighly split at the bottom , hopefully  when the screen goes in  I can glue it along the pillar side , bit of a shame was going well.

Edited February 29, 2020 by pockets

[Spiny]

I'd definitely suggest gluing that crack now rather than waiting until the screen goes in. Not only should it strengthen the pillar, but it will also give you a chance to add primer to that part of the car and hopefully make it show it won't show at all on the finished car.

 

As for ensuring there's not mould release agent left on the plastic, I'm sure everyone has their own method (and some don't bother), but I just put them in the bath of sink with a dash of handwash, leave for an hour or so, then rinse off under the tap.

[LaurieS]

14 minutes ago, Spiny said:

I'd definitely suggest gluing that crack now rather than waiting until the screen goes in. Not only should it strengthen the pillar, but it will also give you a chance to add primer to that part of the car and hopefully make it show it won't show at all on the finished car.

 

As for ensuring there's not mould release agent left on the plastic, I'm sure everyone has their own method (and some don't bother), but I just put them in the bath of sink with a dash of handwash, leave for an hour or so, then rinse off under the tap.

Agree always wash to get rid of the junk from manufacturing.

 

Sure you have made sure Spiny but some hand washes have lanolin as an additive. Same stuff that sheep's wool is coated with.

 

I lick my stuff all over---------with PVA.  😊

 

Laurie

[pockets]

 ok thanks , i was more thinking of oil from my  fingers and general grime from handling the model really . I  used  95 % isopryl in the end seemed to do the job, i glued the pillar and it seems better, but its still a little distorted ,will put some high build primer on it when i do the roof and bonnet as theyr'e showing a few scratches. ,As its my first  car build more of a learning process. maybe I should have done  the less rare kit first but its ok , as I say  It may well end up  being a magnus walker  inspired outlaw build , the screens are a little scratched up so it will suit a bit of road filth.

Edited March 12, 2020 by pockets

[LaurieS]

2 minutes ago, pockets said:

 ok thanks , i was more thinking of oil from my  fingers and general grime from handling the model realy . i  used  95 % isopryl in the end seemed to do the job, i glued the pillar seem better but its still alittle distorted ,will pur some high buil primer in it when i do the roof and bonnet as thyre showing a few scratches , as its my first  car build more of a learning process maybe a should have done  the less rare kit first but its ok , as i say i may well  build a magnus walker  oinspired outlaw , the screen are a little scratched up so it will suit a bit of road filth.

Most of my stuff is aircraft. Not bothered about a scratch of two on the screen. Not that I try to add more. 😇

 

I always have a light haze around on the out side of where the wipers track gives interest & i think a bit of authenticity.  😉

 

Laurie

 

 

[Alan R]

Hi All,

I must confess that I'm not always diligent enough to wash the model prior to spraying. Somehow, it seems to work OK most of the time (!).

I tend to use ordinary washing-up liquid in warm (not hot!) water.

I then carefully 'sloosh' the parts about in the 'soapy' water and gently massage the parts. Once done, I rinse the parts in warm tap water and then put them on my (home made) trestle to air dry.

 

This usually results in a dust-free surface ready for priming/top-coating.

 

Just my hapenenneth...

 

Cheers,

Alan.

[LaurieS]

1 hour ago, Alan R said:

Hi All,

I must confess that I'm not always diligent enough to wash the model prior to spraying. Somehow, it seems to work OK most of the time (!).

I tend to use ordinary washing-up liquid in warm (not hot!) water.

I then carefully 'sloosh' the parts about in the 'soapy' water and gently massage the parts. Once done, I rinse the parts in warm tap water and then put them on my (home made) trestle to air dry.

 

This usually results in a dust-free surface ready for priming/top-coating.

 

Just my hapenenneth...

 

Cheers,

Alan.

Yes Alan if it works don't change it as then things will go wrong 😉

 

Laurie

[Spiny]

23 hours ago, LaurieS said:

Sure you have made sure Spiny but some hand washes have lanolin as an additive. Same stuff that sheep's wool is coated with.

 

That hadn't even occurred to me, but none of the stuff I have at home has lanolin in the ingredients, although when I say 'handwash' I'm just thinking of the liquid soaps rather than anything stronger - I have used washing up liquid too as has also been mentioned.

23 hours ago, pockets said:

 ok thanks , i was more thinking of oil from my  fingers and general grime from handling the model really .

The only time I've come across an issue with this was after clear-coating with some paints (Humbrol a little bit and particularly Revell) - I think it's more the water-based acrylic sprays which suffer from this. Everything else, including brush-painted acrylics, has been fine. Solution: A cheap set of cotton medical gloves allows you to handle the body without leaving fingerprints. The only downsides are that they're not as good as bare fingers for small parts and that you look like Michael Jackson.

[RadMax8]

I’ve got this kit in my stash and will be watching how you carry on. I must confess I inherited this kit, so I haven’t really taken a good look in the box myself, even if I do really appreciate a nice 911. 
 

It looks like the wheels are nicely rendered, as is the engine. Best of luck moving forward!

[mustang1989]

Hang in there with it. Don't worry about the "rookie" mistake pockets. If I had a dime for every time that I zigged when I should've zagged in this hobby I would be rich. I think sometimes it's just the factor of being comfortable where we are in modeling. I just pulled such a stunt on one of my builds where I forgot to paint the roof of a red car white and didn't catch it till after the bare metal foiling. But ….as I've been told.....it's not in the mistake....it's all in the recovery.

[LaurieS]

1 hour ago, mustang1989 said:

Hang in there with it. Don't worry about the "rookie" mistake pockets. If I had a dime for every time that I zigged when I should've zagged in this hobby I would be rich. I think sometimes it's just the factor of being comfortable where we are in modeling. I just pulled such a stunt on one of my builds where I forgot to paint the roof of a red car white and didn't catch it till after the bare metal foiling. But ….as I've been told.....it's not in the mistake....it's all in the recovery.

Agreed totally this is where you learn the skills.

 

As they say if a person has not made a mistake they have not done anything in life.

 

Laurie

[pockets]

Had another disaster this time with paint , the humbrol acrylic from a can  reacted and crazed so had to put the body in a plastic bag with isopryl and  after much faffing and sanding have reapplied some primer and top coat which seems ok apart from one drip which ill rub down after it cures
Thinking about masking it to add a red band on the body but worried about paint peeling when removing it , any tips  on masking tape would be appreciated , ive got some tamiya stuff so good quality. Ialso added a band of plasticard to the top of the rear engine cover and some mr surfacer to the sides as it seemed to be a little small and had excessive panel  gaps at top and sides  so it now looks better .

Edited March 12, 2020 by pockets